No,rear headrests removed and sitting on top of the front headrests, pushed right up as far as the sun visors and, as it was fractionally wider than the tailgate opening, the back of it was sitting on the side supports either side. So even the tailgate would close. With me driving it was sitting on the top of my head but as the missus is slightly shorter than me, it was above her head so she drove it. Rear view mirror was a bit superfluous though.....
I've managed to get a 8 x 4 (2.44 x 1.22 m) sheet of plywood in the back of a P38. The rear tailgate opening is 1.2m but with the back seats folded down, you should be able to get it in on the diagonal.
See if you can see the horseshoe shaped bit of plastic that the interior handle connects to. If that has stuck at one end of the travel, you won't be able to open the door. If it has, poke it with a long stick so it sits central and the door should open.
I have always only ever fitted genuine LR heater core O rings, for the difference in price (£5 each against £3 a pair for blue box) it's a no-brainer. It certainly sounds like you have identified the problem and it may be that the O rings are the weakest link so the pressure is causing them to leak. A decent secondhand engine would be the cheapest and simplest way forward, building one from scratch will eat money when you start with fitting top hat liners and then adding up the cost of other components (bearing, gaskets, etc).
The other thing to check is to see if it still pressurises when running on petrol. An internal leak in the LPG reducer can allow LPG into the coolant circuit and pressurise it. Not only that, but it will also fail a combustion gas check as it will detect LPG, a hydrocarbon, as combustion gases.
However, orange stained plugs does suggest coolant getting into the combustion chambers. If it is cylinders at the ends of the heads (cylinders 1, 2, 7 and 8) then it could be a leak from the coolant passages into the cylinders through the head gaskets but if it is in central cylinders, it can't be as there are no coolant passages next to them. I agree that slipped liners seem more common in the US than here, and the BS from the likes of RPi make it seem far more common than it actually is, but it only takes one serious overheat to cause a leak. The liners don't necessarily slip, when they do you can hear them moving up and down with the piston, but a slight weep between the liner and block will cause it. While it isn't a permanent fix, Water Glass will cure that and keep you going for another couple of years. Plenty of time to source another engine. I bought one for another owner from East Coast Range Rovers, a low mileage '98 4.6, for around £500 including delivery. That came complete with the engine wiring loom so just needed plugging in once fitted. The only difference, as it was going in a '97, was the plugs for the lambda sensors were different so had to be changed.
Hmm, my daughter has a Toyota and there's a number of jobs I've got to do on that now mine is back together.....
If it is over pressurising that will put extra strain on any weak points. It will pressurise with thermal expansion but, without anywhere for the pressure to escape, then once cold there should be no more pressure in there. If you have leaks around a liner or two, that will make the plugs go orange and you have two options, top hat liners or water glass (Sodium Silicate, the active ingredient in Steel Seal).
Water in the footwells is usually rainwater leaking in either through the pollen filter housings or through the screw holes where the plastic plenum is attached to the bulkhead. Take the screws out, lift it up a bit so you can squirt some RTV under the plenum and refit it with new screws. A leak into the boot is either through the rear light gaskets or the tailgate seal.
After a delay of a day I'm finishing off putting my car back together after changing the head gaskets. Noticed that the breather hose on the RH rocker cover to plenum was slightly split (or it was probably weak and split when I pulled it off). Cheap enough from Island 4x4 (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rocker-cover-breather-pipe-plenium-llh500090-err5038-p-5924.html) at under £2 but with postage that would probably put it up to nearer a tenner. Figured I may as well get one from LR as I would be able to order it from my local main agent and pick it up the next day, so checked their site. In stock and available, no problem, then I saw the price https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/llh500090-hose-assembly-breather.html?code=60977 for a 6 inch long pipe?????
Probably. As the seats are manual there's no motors under there so that gives a bit more space. The seat is height adjustable with a lever at the side and I have it quite high so that gives me a bit more space too.
On other matters, decided to have both heads off so now they are off, they've been dropped off to be skimmed and should be ready to pick up lunchtime tomorrow. LH head gasket (and head) was fine but there were some marks on the RH one where the fire rings sit even after I'd cleaned it up with 800 grit so figured that for £35 a head I may as well get them done. Next day delivery on the gaskets turned out to not be next day but the day after so I couldn't start putting it back together anyway. RH exhaust manifold put up a fight so decided to take the head off with it still attached which makes it a bit awkward (but not as awkward as getting to that lower right manifold bolt!) as it is heavier and not balanced.
Yes, ignition needs to be on for all systems except the BeCM where it needs to be off. It's usually the HEVAC that puts up a bit of a fight connecting, EAS is usually OK. Make sure the OBD socket isn't corroded. EAS uses pins 11 and 12 which aren't used by any of the other systems.
All 4 lights means it has detected a fault. With the Nanocom, go into EAS, go to Faults, read what the faults are saying then click on clear faults and come back out of it. That will reset the fault so it should start working normally again. Once you know what caused the fault, then it can be investigated.
You were lucky with that Nigel. I went through 3 front number plates in a year on one of my company vehicles due to pheasants that didn't know the green cross code. Although I've just realised the French plates are aluminium so a bit stronger than our plastic ones.
As for what have you done today, it's more a case of what am I about to do. Noticed a ticking noise under acceleration a couple of days ago. Initially thought it was a cracked RH exhaust manifold so been outside this morning and pulled the heatshield away from it (an advantage of only putting 3 bolts in to hold it in place last time it was off). No sign of any cracks in the manifold but by using a bit of tube to identify where it is going chuff, chuff, chuff from and pulling the plug lead off to confirm it, number 4 is blowing out the side of the block from the head gasket. Replacement gasket, valley gasket and seals ordered on next day delivery so as soon as I've had some lunch, I'll be out there pulling the RH cylinder head off.
That's good news anyway but they don't normally just die, something must have killed it. What's the EAS problem?
leolito wrote:
Wow that sub idea is slick! Saves space and tidies up the entire setup! Me like! Compliments!
I've got a very similar sub only mine sits on top of the BeCM under the driver's seat......
Dirty bulbholder? Dodgy connection to the cluster (assuming rear fog light)?
The ETM is obviously wrong then. For both early and late it shows 6 wires to the non-memory mirrors, a pair for the heater and a pair each for the two motors. I wonder what the other two do?
Fuse 1 supplies a constant 12V to the window switch panel and it also supplies the instruments, so disconnecting that will cause the trip to reset. There doesn't appear to be any connection with the interior lights though but checking for corrosion on fuse 1 pins would be a good place to start.
8 pin? Memory mirrors have 10 pins, no memory only have 6. My observation is that 20 year old worn plastic gears are probably still stronger than brand new Chinese ones.....
It wasn't me that posted the tests but Marty. Check that you have 12V at the input to the voltage regulator and 5V at the output. I've seen mention of the 5V rail being accidentally shorted to ground which takes out the regulator.
I tried converting it to png, gif and changing the file extension from jpg to jpeg, uploaded all variants to imgur and tried to link to them but every time it told me it wasn't an accepted format.
URL for the old one is https://i.imgur.com/wsu0e4s.jpg and the image properties are:
150x107 pixels
72 pixels per inch
Pixel Depth/Colours 24/16 million
URL for the new one is https://i.imgur.com/uYsXAXR.jpg (so exactly the same format) and the image properties are exactly the same. If I change the file extension from jpg to jpeg, when uploaded to imgur, it reverts back to jpg.
I also sent Gordon this
so he can update the banner on the site when he gets around to it.
But all of this has nothing to do with the PCRV......
Tried that, didn't work.....