Had that one, the crank that the cable attaches to has seized so isn't allowing the lever under it to return fully. Should be possible to free it off with a bit of lube and working it back and forth.
If it is the start of a blow, it is most likely to be one of the centre pots rather than one at each end. I pulled the head on that one, had it skimmed as a matter of course but it only needed 6 thou taking off so I could have got away with just whacking a new gasket on it. All with the engine in situ.
These https://www.amazon.co.uk/JBL-6-5-Inch-Component-Speaker-Tweeters/dp/B01EIQZF6U, although you can spend another £4 on these https://www.amazon.co.uk/JBL-STAGE600CE-speakers-loudspeakers-tweeter/dp/B07RWMHSDJ (even though they are exactly the same)?
The JBLs come with replacement tweeters but I tried one and couldn't hear any difference between that and the originals. So rather than spend time mounting the JBL tweeters, I left the originals. I suspect someone 40 years younger than me would hear a difference as the upper range of hearing diminishes as you get older.
Could be the start of this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1147-at-just-the-wrong-time-of-the-year
Sounds like they've sent you the ones that i returned.......
JBL Stage 600CE slot straight in instead of the originals, although you have to drill holes in the plastic surround to fit self tappers to hold them in and change the spade terminals in the wires. Sound far better with much improved bass response. I've got 4 of those in the doors (one in each door, not 4 in each door that is) and a Pioneer underseat sub (as mine never had the factory sub) under the back of the drivers seat, sounds wonderful......
tanis8472 wrote:
The bowden cable connects to the metal part at the top and the inner to the v shaped lever.
That's right. When you pull on the cable it pushes against the lever underneath it. I assume that picture isn't yours as it doesn't have enough pins in the plug but if you take it off, it's fairly obvious how the three levers operate. The rod from the outside handle pushes against the opposite side of the same lever.
As the book says, 28 and 38 no matter what tyres. Vredestein currently, previously Goodyear Wrangler and Pirelli Scorpion.
Fit a (working) LPG system.......
Then drive it and never worry about fuel consumption again.
Oh yes, and a set of Osram Nightbreaker light bulbs.
Much the same with any alloy engine, overheat it and heads crack (ask anyone who'd ever overheated a straight 6 BMW). At least we don't have Nikasyl coated liners........ As you say, almost all engines have their problems and many have been over emphasized.
Smiler wrote:
How quickly do the cam-shafts wear out in the V8?
My original only had slight wear after 285,000 miles when the engine went to V8 Developments to be rebuilt and the new one fitted by them now has 105,000 on it with no symptoms of wear. I know some on the dark side claim they are only good for 80k but they also consider 150k to be high mileage and they don't seem to understand the concept of maintenance or servicing either. The cam will only wear if you don't change the oil often enough.
Hmm. The guy I bought my Classic from (4.2 V8 on LPG) replaced it with a DSE P38. His missus was pleased as it had things like a working heater and windows that went up and down but he wasn't. The Classic would do around 16mpg on LPG so the running costs of 30+ mpg on petrol. The DSE felt that much more sluggish so he would thrash it mercilessly and was lucky to get 24 mpg on diesel.
We may have an ignition system to deal with but we don't have the problems with the complex and expensive Fuel Injection Pump and stretched chains......
Oh yes. Got in from work yesterday to find a calliper carrier had arrived so whacked that on, fitted the new pads and the Ascot now has a full set of wheels bolted on.
But when it's cold it has the viscosity of a 20 grade? It only remains thicker when it gets hot.
Sounds about right. I reckon on 20p a mile if I fill up at the nearest station which is 68.9p and less if I can get to Flogas when they are open as it's 58p there.
It will, that's why you NEVER fit a singlepoint to a Thor. Singlepoint on a GEMS is OK as long as the ignition system is kept in good nick which is why I change spark plugs every 10,000 miles and HT leads every 20,000. Only had a bang when I've done something silly and caused it myself.
Same here, particularly when I've got a 3 tonne trailer on the back, drop it down to 3 or even 2 when going down hills (and watch the temperature gauge plummet down to the blue bit) and drop it down to 3 going up hill if the revs drop below 2,000 rpm when it is in D.
Singlepoint on a Thor?? There's a recipe for disaster if I ever heard of one.......
You can get it to read even lower if you really want to. All you do is start the engine, reset the trip and leave it idling without going anywhere. In theory you should be able to get a minus figure but you can't.......