I've only once gapped the BPR6ES plugs down and it seemed to make no difference whatsoever so I've just left them as they are. If the ignition system is designed for plugs with a 1.1mm gap (as the original recommended Champions had), it shouldn't do any harm at all. I ran a set of the Iridium BPR6EiX for around 40,000 miles up until the engine came out to go to V8 Dev. I didn't have any to put back in and my local factor has to order them in for me but keeps the nickel ones on the shelf, so at £1.99 each, I've been using them ever since. At least with changing them every 10,000 miles, there's less chance of them seizing in.

Haven't got the dog guard but got the brackets fitted, I'll get a couple of photos when I venture outside in the frost.

A lot of the limited editions were registered as standard HSE Auto rather than what they actually were which makes it that much more difficult to see how many there are left. What's wrong with the rear number plate? Looks standard size to me.

Don't get the LPG plugs, if you do want something that will last a lifetime (with the sort of mileage you do) get the Iridium equivalent, BKR6EIX-11. Should be good for about 40,000 miles (which is only 2 years for me).

Have you got the smaller holes that some later Thor cars have? Where you can't fit BPR6ES plugs because the hex is too large? If I remember right, the late Orangebean had one hole that was smaller and Rutland Rover had to get the alternative PFR6N-11 with the smaller hex.

Yes. Get an old plug and use a hacksaw or thin cutting blade on an angle grinder and cut a slot along the length so it becomes a sort of crude tap. Run that down the thread to clean it out. Spin the engine over to blow any crud out and then carefully put the new plug in. I always put a smear of graphite grease on the plug threads to help them go in nice and easily and to stop them welding themselves in. If you don't have graphite grease, Copaslip is almost as good. Don't go all gorilla when you do it up or you could end up with no thread at all but if you read the instructions for putting plugs in (which nobody ever does) they don't need to be ridiculously tight anyway. Worst case, one day you will be driving along and the car will suddenly drop to 7 cylinders, sound like a traction engine and you'll find the plug has made a bid for freedom and is dangling on the end of the HT lead. I've only ever known it happen once and that was after a plug thread had been completely stripped so the plug could only be done up finger tight anyway (and it was on a Vauxhall).

Very nice, only needs the Gen 2s swapping for Dunlops and it would be near perfect.

GEMS is dead easy as the wires go straight in the top. On a Thor the coils are hidden down the back so nothing like as simple to get to.

Hasn't her indoors got small hands and a pair of Marigolds?

One of the diodes has gone open circuit in the alternator. Alternator generates 3 phase AC which is then rectified by the diode pack. With one down only two phases are being rectified so it shows as the pulsating lights. Better that way than when one goes short circuit as that can flatten your battery in about an hour whenever the car is left.

That'll do it, although is probably a bit overkill. One of these would do nicely https://eleshop.eu/rf-explorer-wsub1g.html. Some bright spark thought they would be useful for us but got this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spectrum-Analyser-RF-Explorer-Combo-silver/dp/B00ENEH2KA. Cheap n cheerful but works although totally surplus as we've all got one of these https://www.keysight.com/en/pdx-x201902-pn-N9915A/fieldfox-handheld-microwave-analyzer-9-ghz?cc=GB&lc=eng in the back of the van

Can't see it if you don't have a faceache account.

It's actually CO2 emissions OR engine size depending on how old it is (see https://www.carzone.ie/news/motoringadvice/Motor-and-Road-Tax-Prices-Ireland-2019-1437.html). Still €1809 (or £1546 at today's exchange rate) though.

I've looked into electric vans for our fleet replacement at work. Despite manufacturers claims on range, once loaded and driven under anything other than perfect conditions, you're looking at 100 miles max. With 30 of us to cover the country, nobody does a mileage that low and the other problem is that as we all take the vehicles home and abandon them wherever there is space, how do we charge them overnight and then how does the employee claim back the cost of electricity from the company?

As we eventually discovered with mine when it was being hit by a faulty 433 MHz wireless central heating thermostat sending bursts of random data every 15 seconds, that bought on the IGNITION TAMPER warning and I suspect you jumping the starter caused the ALARM TAMPER one too. Next time you are at the flat, take a receiver and see what is on 433.95 or thereabouts in the area.

Certainly sounds like that is Gordon's problem. No Check Engine light, no crank but no immobilised message or request for the EKA.

Dave, the problem here is that you have given nothing away. You hide behind Davew, you have made no mention of what you drive these days, where in the country you are, what your qualifications are to back up your posts and just simply spread propaganda from the Climate Change lobby. You have never even acknowledged that some of this propaganda may well be biased or that there are alternative views. When asked about your stance all you've said is it isn't about you but it is. If you are an eminent scientist (which on odd occasions you have hinted that you are) involved in this research, then tell us. If you are a lecturer at a university involved in Climate Change, then tell us. You hint that you'll be doing another Seminar, so where and on what? Can we come along to apply some balance? Everyone fears change if it affects their way of life, irrespective of their age. There have been recent claims that 5G will kill us all so how about we stop the introduction of 5G and, just in case there is some truth in it, we shut down all the 4G too? Then it wouldn't be the oldies that would fear change but the youngsters who spend all their time glued to their smartphones. It all depends on what is important to the individual.

I've made no secret of the fact that I've had to do as much research as I can as I'm involved in selecting the vehicles to replace our work fleet so have had to find out about the various restrictions being introduced around the country. I've also made no secret of the fact that I own 2 P38s, both running on LPG and one has been registered with the French, German, Dutch and Belgian authorities and in all cases it has been regarded as a clean vehicle so has unrestricted access to their low emission zones.

We all have an interest but don't need one sided 'facts' rammed down our throats. Whenever the thread started to die a death, you'd pop up with yet another link to instigate more replies. That is the definition of a troll. We are all entitled to our opinions but opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one but some of them stink.

So what is the fix if that is the case? Is this what the mysterious Security Learn option in the Nano does?

You can get a printout with the EKA, radio code, lockset bar code, etc from your local friendly LR dealer in exchange for a look at your V5. You can set EKA to disabled in the BeCM but I'm not sure what it does. If it doesn't need it how do you reset it when the BeCM and ECM lose sync? Or is it that it just doesn't ask for it?. Even if you are entering it with the Nano, you still need to know what it is.

Do the dash warning lights stay on when you try to crank it or do they go out as well as everything else going off? That would be a sign of a flat battery or duff battery connection. But if that was the case the starter wouldn't turn when you jumper the relay. EKA will be the 4 digit number saved in the phonebook on your phone under EKA. If it isn't it should be. Have you got a Nano or are you still blagging one from Miah when you need it?

Is it asking for the EKA? If not, try it anyway.