DavidAll wrote:
Crikey that is an epic Gilbertd!
After struggling for hours to get it out and the replacement back in again using the trolley jack and blocks of wood method, I figured if I was going to do it again I'd make life a bit easier for myself. I made up a bracket that I could bolt to the bottom of the T case. I used a large socket welded to it that was a snug fit into the hole where the trollet jack pad would normally fit so it held the T case level and at just the right angle to slot it back in. I also cut the heads off some Toyota cylnder head bolts which had the correct thread so I could put those into a couple of the mounting holes and slide it in on them. That way it went in straight so less chance of damaging the new oil seal when putting it back. Managed to get it out and back in again on my own rather than having to rope my son-in-law in (a useful source of brute force and ignorance) to help get it in.
RAVE says to always change the gearbox output shaft seal if you take the transfer case off. I swapped my TC in an effort to track down the source of a driveline vibration only to find that not only did it not cure the vibration but the one I put in had a worn chain that would skip. So I put my original one back in. On neither occasion did I follow the instructions to change the gearbox output shaft oil seal so it had to come out again to do just that as it was peeing out all over the place.
This one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-4-6-HOLLAND-AND-HOLLAND-2001-VERY-RARE-COLLECTIBLE-P38-R-R/323888589385 looks to be in need of more than the seller is telling. Unless it is parked on a slope, it looks like it is well down on the RH side (and as there are no pictures of that side you can't say for certain), book showing on the HEVAC, centre bulb out on the message centre, the sort of thing you'd expect on a P38 being sold by someone that doesn't really know, or care, about it. But worst of all, it'll need a complete respray as it's had the light guards fitted so each wing with have had a couple of holes drilled in them. I suspect a respray in the correct colour and finish will be getting on for at least half what he is asking for the car......
Ahem, not trying hard enough. Last Saturday but in all fairness, it's only done 19,000 in the last year......
Admittedly I did expect him to find something that I hadn't noticed but he couldn't and was pretty gobsmacked too when he saw the mileage.
I'd also go with RH Front latch too. When the locks start to dance you sometimes find that only 3 of them do, the one that doesn't is the one that is faulty.
Latches on 94-01 cars are the same as fitted to the MG F and, as LHD cars are pretty rare in the UK, Rimmers have latches at clearance prices. RH https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FQJ102281PMA and LH https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FQJ102292PMA
Have a look at the info from the IVA test manual I posted in post #43 (or look at the whole thing at https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/738819/individual-vehicle-approval-inspection-manual-passenger-vehicles.pdf), that way you can calculate what the maximum towing weight will be. If you get pulled and can produce the relevant page of the test manual along with your calculations, they can't really argue.
Hmm, 2000-2006 5 door Shogun, kerb weight 2125 kgs, from the spare wheel rack, the blue stripe on the mudguards and the perforated beams, it looks like the trailer is an Indespension CT27167, with a max weight of 2700kgs and unladen weight of 690 kgs. So the trailer was overloaded (2125 + 690 = 2815) although within the max towing weight of the Shogun pulling it (braked trailer max of 3,300 kgs). To snake enough for it to flip the towing vehicle the trailer wasn't long enough for the load so too little nose weight. As he managed to close a motorway and old bill turned up, I suspect the driver will be nicked for being overloaded......
I know the feeling. In the process or re-installing the EAS on a friends fully restored soft dash Classic LSE (one of the very last). It was converted to coild springs 16 years ago but we were gobsmacked to find air pressure in the reservoir still after all these years. Pulled out the valve block and compressor and he got new seals and O rings for both. Compressor motor was seized solid so he got another which wasn't much better but with the crank and piston from an old P38 one, managed to make a good one which he took home to fit all new seals to. That done, he got stuck into the valve block and did that. Refitted it (as this lot lives in a steel box under the car bolted to one of the chassis rails) and bought the car over to me. I'd made up a cable and fired up EASUnlock to check the height sensors which all seemed to be working as they should. Then using the software, opened each corner valve at a time and air came out of each pipe. Not a lot though, not as much as I would have expected. Checked the pipe from the air dryer and you could plug it with your finger while the reservoir had naff all pressure in it. Off with the box and onto the bench. While the compressor was making all the right noises, it wasn't pumping anything. Pulled the top off, it was full of dirt and the sleeve was scored to hell. Cleaned all the dirt out, including a load under the reed valve and a spare sleeve I happened to have was fitted. Pump now generating about 150 psi. Connected it up to the valve block and only about 30 of them 150 were getting as far as the outlet to the reservoir. Leaking out of just about every outlet. Then realised. On a Classic, the intake air filter lives up by the petrol filler cap so has a pipe from it to the compressor. He hadn't blown that through with the airline so 16 years worth of crap and dead spiders had been sucked into the compressor and blown into the valve block and air dryer. He's got the valve block in bits again now and is hoping to have it all sorted by Sunday when we might even be able to take the coil springs off and put air springs back in...... Maybe.
First thought was, hmm..... Sport side vents and L322 headlights fitted. What's been fitted in the space where the air filter should live? It looks like a battery in which case, what's under the battery cover or have the L322 lights made the space too small for it to be fitted there?
The crap falls out from around the CV joint. I've found an aerosol of brake cleaner blasts most of it out.
We did 7 or 8 at a summer camp a couple of years ago and didn't take the seats out of any, just tilt the headlining and pull it out the back. We had a couple of guys taking them out, my other half attacking them with a wire brush to get the old glue and foam off, two more of us sticking the new material on and trimming the edges before handing back to the removal guys to put them back in.
davew wrote:
It seems Toad's 'banning rights' were revoked then
Where did you see that? Not that it matters as I only got 2 or 3 one week bans from him, my lifetime ban came from "the site owners" according to a personal email from LLT (who claimed that he had argued with them in my defence and pointed out that I had contributed a lot to the forum over the years). That's why I really want them to adopt my suggested site Intro text.......
I've just lobbed another grenade in to see if anyone picks up on it. I've even amended my signature so they know who I am. I'm trying really hard to get another ban but not even a warning so far. However, LLT has resigned as a Mod and RRTH has been demoted from Admin to Super Mod which, in a PM he described as a sort of Admin Lite.
All I can say is it sounds like you'll get it to work, it's just a shame your E39 was a 530d and not a 545i. Then you'd have had the 4.4 litre V8 that went into the early L322. That is a conversion I'd like to try on a Thor. They both use the Bosch Motronic engine management so all the required outputs to interface with the rest of a P38 should be there, the L322 uses the 5 speed ZF 5HP24 rather than the, near identical, 4 speed ZF 4HP24 so, in theory, with a bellhousing swap it should be possible to mate the L322 lump to the P38 box. Now whether it would be able to handle the 300 bhp from the later engine or not is a different matter but it should be fairly simple to find out with a heavy right foot.......
Only the first year? For the first 2 years of owning mine I didn't trust it as far as I could throw it! But, once sorted, and with a bit of preventative maintenance, they should go on forever. I'm up to 381,000 miles in mine now.......
Rather than trying to glue the old headlining fabric back up, your best bet is to replace it with nice new fabric. Have a look here https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/range-rover-headlining-kits.php, pick your colour (consensus is that Oatmeal is the closest match to teh original even though it doesn't look it in the picture) and do a proper job. You'll need to rope your brother in to help as it is definitely a 2 person job but as he's the one telling you it still looks crap you can blame him anyway.
You managed to get it out in one piece? That must be a first. Glad it was an easy fix though.
I turned the ignition on while one of the ABS sensors was disconnected and got the same fault before the car had even been started. Did it come on while driving or as soon as you started it?
K-Seal leaves tiny coppery coloured bits everywhere, dead giveaway as soon as you take the header tank cap off.
and all I did was copy the link into the insert image box? But that's what I call a trailer, I want one!