Can of freezer spray to chill it before trying to restart, that'd be a new one. I once had a Triumph Spitfire with twin Stromberg carbs so no accelerator pump. If I looked out the window and saw frost on the ground, I'd boil a kettle before going out to go to work. If I didn't pour hot water over the inlet manifold there was no way it was going to start.....

Good work and a filter change can't do any harm. I'm still not convinced that heat soak is the cause of your problems. There's plenty of people who live and visit places that are far hotter than here. If that was the problem and it was a design fault, I'd have expected to have had the same problem whenever I stopped to fill up with LPG with an ambient temperature over 40 degrees.

Dave, there have been calls for this thread to be locked when it got personal previously but the mods decided to let it run as it looked to have died a death anyway. You then chose to keep banging on with semi-relevant posts with links to things that don't really have any relevance. You don't seriously think Lotus have built an electric car with climate change in mind do you? They've built an electric car because they can and everyone else is doing it.

This topic doesn't really belong here anyway, why not find a climate change forum to post instead? We all know the background and we all know that climate change may be happening (or not depending on which side of the fence you sit) but this is a car forum. We drive around in V8 powered petrol fuelled cars and we could continue to drive them for the next thousand years before we even approach the amount of damage being done by deforestation of the rainforests, the oilfield fires in Iraq, etc. Governments say they are doing their bit by banning diesels and restricting the use of petrol fuelled vehicles and try to push everyone down the route of electric cars. Completely ignoring the CO2 being generated (and other environmental damage) in mining the Lithium for the batteries and the further CO2 generated when they reach the end of life in getting rid of them.

I'd be inclined to suggest that they aren't the ones that should get a grip.

EAS Manual will be caused by either a loom plugged in the BeCM (usually using a bundle of blue wires and a power feed taken from one of the BeCM inputs) or a pair of jumpers at the plug for the EAS ECU.

It's fairly easy to test a valve block and driver pack and, at the same time, check for any internal leaks. There's two connectors involved, one from the rest of the car and one between the driver pack and valve block. With the driver pack connected to the valve block, you can test from the other connector. This will test both the driver pack and solenoids. Put 12V onto pins 12 and 13 (both with red wires) and ground on pins 10 and 11 (both with black wires). You can then apply 12V to pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 one at a time and each one will cause one of the solenoids to open so you will hear it click. If you use a short length of air line into the 4 outlets that would feed the air springs and pressurise from there (I use one of the push on Schrader valves and a tyre pump), it should hold pressure until you operate the relevant solenoid. You can't check the inlet, exhaust and diaphragm valves this way unless you have a bit of 8mm air line and matching Schrader valve (which I haven't got).

As long as you make sure the electrical and pneumatic side of things is working before you remove the coil springs and fit the air springs, you won't turn the car into a 2 tonne doorstop. I recently un-converted a late model LWB Classic from coils back to air. Stripped and rebuilt the compressor, replaced the O rings in the valve block and tested it on the bench as above, replaced the leaking O rings that the owner of the car had managed to damage when putting it back together, fitted everything to the car and connected up the air lines. Using EASUnlock we could check that we were getting sensible readings from the height sensors by jacking the car up and seeing if the readings changed. We could then let the compressor run to build up pressure in the reservoir and again, with EASUnlock, open each corner valve in turn and check that air came out of the lines. We then fitted a Schrader valve in place of each air spring, pressurised the system and left it overnight. The following day we could check to see if the valves all had pressure behind them and, as they had, then and only then did we take the coil springs off and fit the air springs.

What does the dash say then? It would either say EAS Manual (only initially when you first start it) or EAS Fault 35 MPH Max. Check that the EAS ECU is plugged in too.

You don't want V4, that's the one that costs money, the free version is here http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 along with the cable as described here http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/p38a-eas-unlock-videos. But if you've got a Nano you won't need either as it can clear the faults for you.

If the dash comes up and shows EAS Manual, there will be a bypass harness somewhere. It might be the one that money is charged for which is a harness, usually using blue wires, that plugs into the BeCM and will be found by the fuse panel, it might be a couple of jumpers in the plug that should go to the EAS ECU under the LF front seat. Whichever it is, remove it. You'll need everything plugged in for it to try to work but remember that if the coils are still there and the height sensors are working, then it might be at the correct height anyway so it won't open any of the valves to try to inflate the air springs. Let the compressor run for 10 minutes or so, after which time it should cut out, then try selecting the highest setting. That should cause it to open the valves and blow all the air out.

No, LRDirect and Rimmers are completely different companies. Rimmers are a bit more expensive than the others but their deliveries are good.

JMCLuimni wrote:

Why do we even care that an SRS and AIRBAG FAULT light are on?

Because in the UK, it's an MoT failure and that means you can't drive the car on the road. That isn't to say that the tester is likely to notice that it never comes on as the bulbs have been taken out or, in some cases, such as a Renault I took in for MoT a while ago, some naughty person hasn't taken the front off the instrument panel and stuck a small square of black tape over it......

On a RHD car there is a connector beneath the steering column which is usually the cause of a drivers airbag fault, disconnecting and giving a squirt of contact cleaner before re-connecting will usually clear the fault. Never looked on the other side but if there is a connector behind the glovebox, that would be favourite for a passenger side fault.

romanrob wrote:

but I found that it was better to remove the sensor and cage, and get some emery paper down the hole, before greasing the cage and pushing the sensor into place.

If you can get them out. My experience is that the rears may come out if you are lucky, the fronts won't without resorting to drilling them out.

They should always come on when you first start up. The middle one is a warning that the handbrake is on, you are low on brake fluid or you don't have sufficient pressure in the system. They will all stay on until you have sufficient pressure but after that, ABS goes out when you reach 5 mph and the TC one comes on if there is a TC fault or TC is working (but then it just flickers on). If they are randomly coming on, and giving you ABS fault or Traction failure on the dash, then the most likely cause is a sensor not quite fully home. The one fault where hitting things with a hammer actually does do some good......

He's not listing it now so I'll just have to hope Direnza get them back in stock a bit sharpish. £999 isn't that far off for one from Allisport (https://www.allisport.com/shop/performance-products/alloy-radiators/range-rover-p38-v8-radiator/) although they are out of stock too.......

Where did you get the alloy rad from Rob? I need to order another Direnza for someone but they are currently shown as out of stock and Direnza told me they wouldn't have any for 3-5 weeks. As I need to take it to France in 3 weeks, it'll be pushing it.

Not sure what you mean about LRCat not showing pictures, that is a screen dump from LRCat? It shows rear handles and it gives the part numbers for LH and RH sides. Rear handles will be the same whether RHD or LHD, only the front's will be different.

Looks like the hook goes upwards

Is that with a poorly V8 or have you got the BMW diesel motor in yet?

From your description I've never seen anything along the top. My car, and quite a few others have the two brackets either side for the dog guard but there's only two of them and they are plastic. We'll have to wait until you can get a picture.

C'mon, spill it. What you done????

It was a combination of jealousy and the fact that James is Irish and has a sense of humour. Their loss, our gain.