The fob will only light up in the ignition if passive immobilisation is enabled in the BeCM. This is to stop the unlock button needing to be pressed if the car was unlocked but the engine not started within a minute. The coil around the ignition lock causes the fob to transmit and unlock code automatically. If Immobilisation has been disabled in the BeCM, then the fob won't be caused to transmit as it doesn't need it to.

However, I have come across a couple of cars where the fobs won't sync in the door lock if passive immobilisation has been turned off. Assuming you have a Nanocom, go into the BeCM settings and turn immobilisation to enabled and then try to sync again. Once synced you can turn it back off if you want.

A lot on the low side. The very early cars had the regulator set at 13.8V but with the higher calcium content in later batteries that can handle a higher charge rate, from around early 96, the regulator is at 14.4V.

JMCLuimni wrote:

Before I switch blades should I not be able to insert the current H&H key in the door of the H&H and use the Linley FOB (which could be the FOB that was meant for the H&H) to sync the locks?
With all that being said, does anyone have the definitive method of syncing key FOB to central locking? I’ve searched online and there are many ways suggested...... anyone have the balls on, money back sure to work method?

Yes, that's what I was getting at above. Put the H&H key in the H&H door lock and turn to lock, hold there, while holding press and hold the lock button on the Linley fob until the light starts to flash faster, release the fob button and turn the key back to centre. Then turn the key to unlock and hold there, press the unlock button on the Linley fob and hold until the light flashes faster, release the button on the fob, then turn the key back to centre. Remove key from the door lock and try pressing a button on the Linley fob. If the fob is correctly coded to the BeCM and the sync has worked then the fob should operate the central locking.

You can then prove you got them the wrong way round by doing the same with the Linley key and H&H fob in the Linley door. If you haven't tried this method (which is the method I was shown in confidence by the Service Manager at my LR main dealer as this is what they normally do and then charge people the coding fee), then try it first without swapping the locks/fobs in case you got them correct and just haven't used the correct sync method.

Rather than risk damaging the fobs, I'd swap the locks over if it were me...

I've never managed to get the blade out without splitting the fob casing.

Try to sync a fob in the door lock. If you put the key that fits the H&H lock in the door and turn it then press the lock button on the fob from the Linley and try to sync them, if it works you'll know you've got them the wrong way round. You'd need a key from one car and a fob from the other to use them though......

Then it will be a case of swapping them over or dismantling the fobs and swapping the key blades. I suspect the former will result in less chance of buggering up your new fobs.

Sounds good, but I'm wondering how you are getting the fuel rail up to 65 degrees in this weather? With a blowlamp?

Not quite Morat. If it was originally locked with the fob and then unlocked with the key, it will need the EKA entering every time. If it can be unlocked with the fob, then it can be locked or unlocked with the key and won't ask for the EKA. Hopefully, once the EKA has been entered with the Nano, then it will possible to lock and unlock with the key without it asking for the EKA.

Were the keys ordered to your exact VIN? The fobs are coded to the BeCM so need to be the correct ones. If they are not, it is possible, if you have the correct kit, to reprogram the BeCM with the code that matches the fob, You'd need Marty to do that though and no idea when he will be back with us (he was last seen in Canada).

It might be that the receiver isn't working correctly or you've got 433 MHz fobs and a 315 MHz receiver or some other combination. You can check if the receiver is seeing a signal from the fob by sitting in the car in the dark, wait for the BeCM to go to sleep and the LED next to the gearchange goes out (rather than glowing very dimly) and press a button on your fob. If it wakes the BeCM up (signified by the LED coming back on dimly), then the fob is transmitting, the receiver is receiving but the code is either not synced or wrong.

The immobiliser can't be turned off, it is integral to the BeCM. You can get a device that over-rides it but it isn't cheap. You need to get the fob working and synced then you shouldn't have any problems.

It's only plastic, the engine would have eaten it and spat it out the exhaust.......

I was changing my spark plugs one day and one of the middle ones slipped out of the socket and was hanging down between the head and the exhaust heat shield. Missus was there who offered to fish it out as her hands were smaller. She got hold of the top, started lifting it out and it slipped out of her fingers and disappeared! It wasn't on the ground under the car so the bore scope came out to see if I could see it. Nope, no sign of it from above. From under the car looking up I still couldn't see it. After the best part of an hour, I eventually found it sitting on top of the engine mount. She hasn't volunteered to help since for some odd reason..

Should do, it works on anything with a BeCM with firmware later than V36 which is around mid 97. You can enter the EKA with the Nano rather than using the key. Whether that will mean you can subsequently lock and unlock with the key and no longer have to enter the EKA, I've no idea. Marty or Sloth should be able to tell you.

With the Nano you can turn off passive immobilisation but what that does is stop it from immobilising itself again if you unlock but don't start the engine within a minute. You can also turn off the EKA but I've no idea what that does I'm afraid. It could mean that it doesn't ask for it but equally it could mean that it won't accept it when it asks for it.

Hi Frank, you made it here. If the fob lights, then it might actually be working and just needs to be synced using the method I outlined on the other side. If the car was locked with the fob and unlocked with the key, it will then need the EKA entering. If it is locked with the key, then unlocked with the key, it won't. So you need to get it unlocked with the fob then you can lock or unlock with either. You say the fob lights up. Does it just light up when you press a button or does it flash? It should flash 3 or 4 times then start flashing faster. I've come across a faulty fob where the light just came on all the time a button was pressed, that was down to a faulty switch in the fob..

When I got mine I didn't trust it as far as I could throw it but after replacing the air springs, blend motors, discs and pads, etc I started to use it. Since having the engine rebuilt 4 years and 100,000 miles ago, it's been a rear diff, front axle with new top and bottom ball joints (it was easier to swap the ball joints on another axle then swap the whole thing in), front propshaft, alternator, radiator, water pump, viscous coupling, serpentine belt, steering ball joints (twice), tyres (twice), more brake pads, radius arm bushes and anti-roll bar bushes (at the last summer camp), replaced the throttle body heater pipe with silicone hose and a change of oil, filters, spark plugs every 10,000 and plug leads every 20,000. There's probably a few other odds and sods I've missed out, but you get the idea.

I've done other odd things like repaired the heated seats, new headlining, fitted the DAB radio (along with JBL speakers replacing the original door speakers) and an underseat sub under the drivers seat, reversing camera so I can hitch up a trailer on my own but these are all niceties and not things that will stop it from running.

It's the sort of thing you tack onto another order so you aren't paying the extra carriage costs. Unless it has been replaced, it's also worth replacing the breather hose too. The originals were rubber so rot away with constant oil vapour in them whereas the replacements are something similar to neoprene so don't rot.

I normally use a bit of RTV on the plenum but I've taken cars apart where people have used RTV on the ram housing to manifold and the intakes have been partially blocked when it's all oozed out.

That's for the plenum chamber (the bit with 4.6 cast into it) to the upper manifold, not the upper to lower manifold. For some odd reason, the upper plenum chamber lives under the Fuel System section, whereas the manifold lives under section 30, Manifold and Exhaust System. No mention of putting anything on that joint except for the Thor where it just says to fit a new gasket (as the Thor has one but GEMS doesn't).

When the gear position reported by the XYZ switch doesn't match the physical gear position at the gearbox cable , then you will get gearbox fault and it goes into limp home mode. So no Sport button and 3rd or 4th gear only (depending on whether it detects the fault while moving or stationary). The odd thing is that you are able to start the car when it is showing anything other than P or N. The output from the XYZ switch drives the LEDS next to the gearlever but it also tells the BeCM what gear you are in so that can display it on the dash and decide whether it should allow the starter to turn or not. Unless it is seeing P or N, the starter should be inhibited..

Isn't the Loctite 577 used to glue the trumpets into place rather than between the two parts of the manifold? Hylomar will disappear as you are using it on two smooth machined surfaces but it will fill any irregularities. In theory, nothing is needed, or wasn't when it was new and you had two perfectly flat machined faces but as it isn't new any more you might have slight leakage so the Hylomar will seal that.

A PIR sensor is a Passive Infra Red sensor, the sort of thing that detects movement and switches outdoor lights on or triggers a burglar alarm. What Chris is referring to is actually an ultrasonic movement sensor and is the thing above the passenger side B post.

Did 1,600 miles in 4 days in mine last week, bringing the mileage up to 388,200 miles so yours is barely run in. To make it reliable service it regularly and if anything doesn't seem quite right, deal with it now before it gets worse and bites you in the bum.