On the dark side, he said it was a 98 so will be GEMS.
Been driving (and sleeping) for the last 24 hours, so not been on either forum. Currently in a French watermill so I've taken some photos of lots of water moving from one place to another to send to you Tom (Bolt) for your thoughts on how we can make it do something useful......
What do you have to pay in road tax over there? Rick has just moved and it seems he is going to have to sell his P38 (V8) due to the amount of road tax he is going to have to pay, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1589-sad-time
Is there a way round it?
Only if you click the link. If you select the image in Imgur, on the right side there's a number of links. You want the one marked Direct Link (with a link ending in .jpg), paste that into the box and it will appear in the post.
just edited it for you so the pictures appear.
You can't upload directly to the forum, you have to upload to somewhere else (most of us use Imgur.com) then post the Direct Link using the Insert Image button when writing your post.
If, as dave3d says, the M57 is just a development of the M51, I would have thought a diesel to diesel swap would be a lot simpler. But, as I know practically nothing about diesel engines, I may be totally wrong. My idea at some point (once I'm retired) is to put the BMW 4.4 litre V8 from an L322 into a Thor P38. As both engines run the same Bosch Motronic ECU there can't be too many differences, maybe.......
They won't usually give it over the phone, you have to go into a main dealer with your V5 and prrof of ID to show it is your car. They'll then give you a printout with the radio code, the EKA the lockset bar code, etc.
Where? The heater core temp sensor is the one clipped to the inlet pipe just before the O ring joint. I can't think of any way of getting to the actual matrix itself without major dismantling.
I'd be inclined to dump a load of the cleaning stuff down each of the pollen filter holes then poke the Prog button. That will close the recirculate flaps and put it on max heat with both blowers on flat out. Can't do any harm and may sort it. Extra heat may have caused something to start to cook but I can't see it really, it'll never get hot enough to start to melt any of the plastic. Sure you haven't got a dead mouse in there?
That Connects2 unit looks a bit odd to me, but it looks like it uses ISO back to back plugs to go in between the car loom and the head unit. Not sure how well it will work with the DSP system as that doesn't use all the speaker outputs so it will be trying to intercept something that isn't there. That's the same arrangement as something like a Parrot hands free kit uses but it only disconnects the signal from the head unit and injects audio from the hands free kit directly into the speaker feeds. Give it a go though and see how you get on.
The cheaper Grom that Bolt mentioned is probably this one https://gromaudio.co.uk/products/grom-aux3-aux-input-iphone-ipod-mp3-car-kit-plus-charging/rover-auxiliary-adapter-kit.html. Fairly simple, it just gives you a line in input instead of the CD changer that you can use with your phone, an mp3 player or whatever.
Although if the AC drain is blocked you usually get a puddle of water in the passenger footwell.
Your only option with the Alpine and DSP system is the Grom BT3 unit. According to their website (https://gromaudio.co.uk/products/bluetooth-hands-free-and-a2dp-car-kits/bmw-mini-rover-bluetooth-integration-kit-678.html#Description) it doesn't work with cars fitted with the sat nav although Mark (Orangebean) successfully fitted one to his Vogue SE. At the time we couldn't work out what difference the sat nav would make and suspect that as it is an add on unit it may not work with all cars fitted with sat nav. Not cheap but if you want to retain the original head unit but add Bluetooth and a Line In, it's a good option. You do lose the CD changer though.
Contact Clarion at http://www.clarion-service.co.uk/cs/Repair.html, they will refurbish the unit and remove the need for the code. While they are at it they will add a line in cable too. As long as the display is OK (as they no longer have stocks of replacement display modules) the turn around is very quick and cheap. The original Clarion gives very good sound quality and with the line in you can either use it to plug in an external source (or phone) or use it to plug in a Bluetooth module so you can connect anything. Unlike the later Alpine and DSP amp, the Clarion is repairable.
I've only once gapped the BPR6ES plugs down and it seemed to make no difference whatsoever so I've just left them as they are. If the ignition system is designed for plugs with a 1.1mm gap (as the original recommended Champions had), it shouldn't do any harm at all. I ran a set of the Iridium BPR6EiX for around 40,000 miles up until the engine came out to go to V8 Dev. I didn't have any to put back in and my local factor has to order them in for me but keeps the nickel ones on the shelf, so at £1.99 each, I've been using them ever since. At least with changing them every 10,000 miles, there's less chance of them seizing in.
Haven't got the dog guard but got the brackets fitted, I'll get a couple of photos when I venture outside in the frost.
A lot of the limited editions were registered as standard HSE Auto rather than what they actually were which makes it that much more difficult to see how many there are left. What's wrong with the rear number plate? Looks standard size to me.
Don't get the LPG plugs, if you do want something that will last a lifetime (with the sort of mileage you do) get the Iridium equivalent, BKR6EIX-11. Should be good for about 40,000 miles (which is only 2 years for me).
Have you got the smaller holes that some later Thor cars have? Where you can't fit BPR6ES plugs because the hex is too large? If I remember right, the late Orangebean had one hole that was smaller and Rutland Rover had to get the alternative PFR6N-11 with the smaller hex.
Yes. Get an old plug and use a hacksaw or thin cutting blade on an angle grinder and cut a slot along the length so it becomes a sort of crude tap. Run that down the thread to clean it out. Spin the engine over to blow any crud out and then carefully put the new plug in. I always put a smear of graphite grease on the plug threads to help them go in nice and easily and to stop them welding themselves in. If you don't have graphite grease, Copaslip is almost as good. Don't go all gorilla when you do it up or you could end up with no thread at all but if you read the instructions for putting plugs in (which nobody ever does) they don't need to be ridiculously tight anyway. Worst case, one day you will be driving along and the car will suddenly drop to 7 cylinders, sound like a traction engine and you'll find the plug has made a bid for freedom and is dangling on the end of the HT lead. I've only ever known it happen once and that was after a plug thread had been completely stripped so the plug could only be done up finger tight anyway (and it was on a Vauxhall).
Very nice, only needs the Gen 2s swapping for Dunlops and it would be near perfect.
GEMS is dead easy as the wires go straight in the top. On a Thor the coils are hidden down the back so nothing like as simple to get to.