If he can get into the boot, behind the RH panel there's a black 12 way connector (not all ways are used though). On one side the wires are coloured but on the other side every wire is white. The white wires are the ones that go into the tailgate (so if anyone ever gets access to the wires they can't easily identify which wire does what to power the hatch solenoid). If he applies 12V to the white wire that is on pin 11 (fed with a Purple wire) and grounds the white wire on pin 10 (fed with a Green/Red wire) that will energise the tailgate release solenoid. It'll work the same as the pushbutton, so first timje will release the upper tailgate, second time the lower.

I bet I wouldn't be if he realised he banned my other username for life. At least when eBay and Gmail did their revamps, they give the option to switch to 'Classic' view.

Spare time? That's what comes of working from home a couple of days a week and sitting here with two laptops.

I don't know if it will ever forget, it doesn't seem to forget anything else. My throttle butterfly was intermittently sticking so it would idle at around 1,000 rpm and that made the downshifts very noticeable so I suspect yours is doing something similar. If it flags the error before you even start the engine that would suggest a wiring problem somewhere. May be nothing more than a connection you've had off needing a squirt of contact cleaner. Just a case of working out which one.....

0.62V is what mine shows so it's about spot on (or mine is wrong too), although that doesn't correlate with your throttle angle data being wrong. Unless it is staying at 0.6V and not going up as you open the throttle.

Jeeezus!!! Has anyone looked at it recently? There was an announcement that it was updating but how horrible can they make it look? There's not even an option to make it look like a forum again......

Have a carefull look at the connectors, particularly to the TPS. It isn't unknown for moisture to get under the insulation and start to rot through the conductors. As you will have had them all unplugged, you may have strained one and broken it. I've had to carve away the plastic and solder the wire directly to the end of the terminal on my temp sender and intake air temp sender for just this reason. Once soldered, I've slobbered the ends with RTV to keep the moisture out.

I used Johnsens Freeze 12 in my 93 Classic and it worked perfectly, but, like most things these days, I can no longer find a supplier.

Blimey, it must be in many small pieces to allow you to have got that out!

Rather than the Halfords stuff, I'd go for this https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-parts/engine-parts/engine-parts1/engine-oils/?521776241&1&cc5_251 as it's A3 SL spec so much higher than the A2 SH that the chart in RAVE recommends. That also means the change interval would be the same 6,000 miles. If you use this weeks discount code the ECP oil will be cheaper than the Halfords stuff too.

I was bought up on older 60s and 70s vehicles and 50 psi was always regarded as good oil pressure, anything less than 30 was bad and anything less than 10 at idle when hot meant you would shortly be searching the local scrapyards for a new engine. But in those days you could get a complete engine for £25 if you went down with a couple of mates and hauled it out yourself......

In Imgur click on the picture then click on the Copy button on the RHS of the screen. However, this doesn't as you might think, copy the link, it just highlights it. So right click on the highlighted link, click the image button on here, right click in that and paste the link into the box.

Looking forward to seeing it.

It's an engine that was designed in the 1960's (if not before).OK, so it's been bored and stroked to up the capacity but it is the same basic engine designed at a time when the only multigrade oil was 20W-50. Putting something like 5W-30 in it you may as well have filled the sump with cooking oil, I'm not surprised you've got low oil pressure.

I bought a V12 Jag back from the south of France a few years ago, engine design of similar vintage to ours. After around 60 miles the oil pressure when running was down to 10 psi and falling off the bottom of the gauge at idle. I'd been told it had been serviced before I picked it up so called the garage that had done it and asked what they had put in it. 5W-30 mate, same as we put in everything. Found a branch of Norauto (French Halfords), bought a gallon of 20W-50 and did an oil change over a drain at the side of the road. Oil pressure back up to around 45 psi when cruising and down to 15 psi at idle.

You may have done some damage running on thin oil but if you change it to something quite a bit thicker, chances are it will be fine. OK, it will need the crank grinding sooner or later but even after 380,000 my crank hasn't needed to be ground, just polished and fitted with new bearings when it was rebuilt coming up to 100,000 miles ago.

Quote: As for the 50psi figure, someone else on the Rover V8 Facebook Group has said that can't be right and would blow out the oil seals.

Utter bollocks. Nowhere on the engine is there an oil seal that has full oil pressure behind it. It is possible to damage an engine with too much oil pressure but too much is going to be at least twice what it should be as the damaged is that the bearing shells spread.

According to RAVE (General Specification Data, page 3) oil pressure on your engine should be 50 psi at 2,000 rpm with a warm engine so you are low, very low. Oddly, although the GEMS is exactly the same engine as far as the oil feed is concerned, they quote 30-40 at 2,400 rpm with a warm engine. In the old days when cars were actually fitted with oil pressure gauges, less than 15 at idle was considered low and 40-50 psi would be normal when running. Do you have a gauge plumbed in now so you can keep an eye on it? If you have, I'd consider bunging something nice and thick in there in the interim. After my engine was rebuilt at V8 Developments, I asked what oil I should use and was told 10W-50 or 10W-60 if I could get it, the 15W-40 I'd been using was considered too thin. Since then I've used 10W-60 (Castrol Edge, bloody expensive so only bought when ECP have one of their 50% off oils weekends). I can run my engine, switch it off then turn the ignition back on and have to wait for the oil pressure light to come on as it holds pressure for a good few seconds after being turned off.

Considering theage and mileage on your car, you do seem to have rather a lot of problems I would only expect on something with my sort of mileage.

I think it was the old, pre-94 R12, cars that had sight glasses, I've not noticed them on anything more modern. I've got a 91 Maserati lurking in the garage that, now I've got rid of one P38, Dina's daughter's Nissan Micra and the motorcycle that was blocking it in the garage, I've the space to get stuck into that. The high pressure hose from the compressor nees to be replaced as a previous owner had neatly tie wrapped lots of hoses and wiring but unfortunately this hose had been tie wrapped in such a way that the back of the PAS pump belt wore through it. Before I found out why it was leaking, I filled that a couple of times. I used to be able to get 1kg cans of Isceon R413A which was a drop in replacement for R12. I would sit the can on a pair of postal scales and open the valve with the engine running until the required 750g had gone in. Unfortunately, R413A is no longer manufactured as it is alledgedly ozone layer depleting, so the replacement for it now is R437A butI've not been able to find it in anything smaller than 13 kg bottles, a bit overkill when all I need is 750g. I suspect that might end up getting LPG as I've got an awful lot of that available......

You should be OK. Things come in threes and we've had 3......

I had zero confidence in mine for about the first 2 years of ownership, I didn't trust it as far as I could throw it. But, as I had bought it to use as an everyday car and also to tow some big heavy trailers around Europe, there was nothing else that would do what I needed. I persevered with it and now, 9 years and 175,000 miles later, I will (and do) happily get in it and drive it anywhere.

If they are the ones I think you mean, they're known as Speednuts and come in loads of different sizes. My local motor factor sells them or search eBay for ones of the right size.

Although they describe it as R134a, it's actually an organic R134a substitute. But at £60 a pop, you'd be better off getting the system evacuated and filled properly rather than dumping an unspecified amount of something in there.

He didn't even bother connecting the gauges, he just connected the Nitrogen bottle to the larger of the two ports. I couldn't see what the gauge on the bottle was reading as I was standing on the other side of the car, but he did look puzzled. I suspect he was seeing pressure before he'd opened the valve and couldn't understand where it was coming from. I had told them that it was working, just not as well as it had in the past so he should have realised there would be pressure in it. They did the same on Dina's car but that was completely empty so it wouldn't have mattered. Bunged some Nitrogen in to pressurise the system, closed the valve and left it for a few minutes to see if the gauge dropped and when it didn't, took the Nitrogen hose off and connected their machine to vac it out and refill it. That was at the same place but a different person, the guy that did that one didn't seem to be about when I took mine in.

That's interesting as I've always confirmed the system is working by looking for condensation on the fat pipe. On a reasonably hot day, with standard UK type humidity, when the compressor is running the fat pipe will be covered in condensation and too cold to touch, while the thinner one will be too hot to touch. It's always been like that. I also get quite an impressive stream of condensed water coming out from under the car, to the point where I've stopped at a filling station and had people tell me I've got a water leak. The hose I have for filling from a can fits on the low pressure side and has a pressure guage so I'll connect that and see what sort of pressure is in there before starting it up and after it's been running with the AC on. As my partners Merc has recently been gassed and is working fine, I can check the pressures on that to compare them and see if mine is reading way different.

I didn't get the Klebers in the end, I went with a set of Vredestein Quatrac 5. Absolutely superb in the wet and as good as dedicated winter tyres in snow, very quiet too. Seem to be lasting rather well, they've done at least 35,000 miles and still have plenty of tread, well over the 4mm minimum needed in some European countries in winter. No idea if they are available in the size needed for all wheels though.