Hmm, something tells me it isn't cold, windy and raining on the other side of the world.......

Wear doesn't matter as long as there are no dead spots in the track. Making some blocks and doing a full calibration will sort out a lean.

We could treat Today like a French tradesman treats Tomorrow. As in, I'll be there Tomorrow but by the time Tomorrow arrives, it's now Today so I'll be there Tomorrow......

I'm wondering if they've ordered the locksets on the VIN from a 'will it physically fit' viewpoint rather than a coding viewpoint. Sounds like your only option now is to get Marty to do a bit of programming magic.

Change Immobiliser to Enabled. Once you've done that you should find that the LED on the fob lights when you put the key in the ignition.

You should then be able to sync a fob (no telling which one though) in the door latch using the method above.

The Immobiliser setting turns on or off passive immobilisation. What this means is that if you unlock the car but don't start the engine within a preset time (I think it's one minute) it will immobilise it again meaning you would have to press unlock again before you can start the car. The theory is that the coil around the ignition lock barrel causes the fob to transmit the unlock code meaning you wouldn't notice it. However, the coil is very fragile and breaks easily meaning you would have to press unlock every time you want to start the car if you don't start it as soon as you unlock it.

If you can successfully sync a fob, then you can change the Immobiliser setting back to Disabled.

What have I done to it today? Driven it, much the same as most other days. Although it has developed a machine gun inside the drivers door when I close the window. When I first got it almost 10 years ago, it was doing it then. Rather than spend money I built up the worn teeth with weld and ground them back down to the right shape. A repair that I expected to last a few weeks that lasted almost 10 years is pretty good in my book. This time, I've bought a new window regulator, a Britpart one as it was in stock and has a 2 year warranty. Lets see if that lasts as long as my repair on the old one did. Fitting it should give me something to do next week......

It's got a leak and the compressor is worn out.

Yes, it will always stay at the top.

My engine came out at 287,500 to go to V8 Developments and was still on the original cam then. They did say the chain was well worn though when they pulled it apart. As it's now just over 100,000 miles later, going on that the new one must be well worn by now.

The fob will only light up in the ignition if passive immobilisation is enabled in the BeCM. This is to stop the unlock button needing to be pressed if the car was unlocked but the engine not started within a minute. The coil around the ignition lock causes the fob to transmit and unlock code automatically. If Immobilisation has been disabled in the BeCM, then the fob won't be caused to transmit as it doesn't need it to.

However, I have come across a couple of cars where the fobs won't sync in the door lock if passive immobilisation has been turned off. Assuming you have a Nanocom, go into the BeCM settings and turn immobilisation to enabled and then try to sync again. Once synced you can turn it back off if you want.

A lot on the low side. The very early cars had the regulator set at 13.8V but with the higher calcium content in later batteries that can handle a higher charge rate, from around early 96, the regulator is at 14.4V.

JMCLuimni wrote:

Before I switch blades should I not be able to insert the current H&H key in the door of the H&H and use the Linley FOB (which could be the FOB that was meant for the H&H) to sync the locks?
With all that being said, does anyone have the definitive method of syncing key FOB to central locking? I’ve searched online and there are many ways suggested...... anyone have the balls on, money back sure to work method?

Yes, that's what I was getting at above. Put the H&H key in the H&H door lock and turn to lock, hold there, while holding press and hold the lock button on the Linley fob until the light starts to flash faster, release the fob button and turn the key back to centre. Then turn the key to unlock and hold there, press the unlock button on the Linley fob and hold until the light flashes faster, release the button on the fob, then turn the key back to centre. Remove key from the door lock and try pressing a button on the Linley fob. If the fob is correctly coded to the BeCM and the sync has worked then the fob should operate the central locking.

You can then prove you got them the wrong way round by doing the same with the Linley key and H&H fob in the Linley door. If you haven't tried this method (which is the method I was shown in confidence by the Service Manager at my LR main dealer as this is what they normally do and then charge people the coding fee), then try it first without swapping the locks/fobs in case you got them correct and just haven't used the correct sync method.

Rather than risk damaging the fobs, I'd swap the locks over if it were me...

I've never managed to get the blade out without splitting the fob casing.

Try to sync a fob in the door lock. If you put the key that fits the H&H lock in the door and turn it then press the lock button on the fob from the Linley and try to sync them, if it works you'll know you've got them the wrong way round. You'd need a key from one car and a fob from the other to use them though......

Then it will be a case of swapping them over or dismantling the fobs and swapping the key blades. I suspect the former will result in less chance of buggering up your new fobs.

Sounds good, but I'm wondering how you are getting the fuel rail up to 65 degrees in this weather? With a blowlamp?

Not quite Morat. If it was originally locked with the fob and then unlocked with the key, it will need the EKA entering every time. If it can be unlocked with the fob, then it can be locked or unlocked with the key and won't ask for the EKA. Hopefully, once the EKA has been entered with the Nano, then it will possible to lock and unlock with the key without it asking for the EKA.

Were the keys ordered to your exact VIN? The fobs are coded to the BeCM so need to be the correct ones. If they are not, it is possible, if you have the correct kit, to reprogram the BeCM with the code that matches the fob, You'd need Marty to do that though and no idea when he will be back with us (he was last seen in Canada).

It might be that the receiver isn't working correctly or you've got 433 MHz fobs and a 315 MHz receiver or some other combination. You can check if the receiver is seeing a signal from the fob by sitting in the car in the dark, wait for the BeCM to go to sleep and the LED next to the gearchange goes out (rather than glowing very dimly) and press a button on your fob. If it wakes the BeCM up (signified by the LED coming back on dimly), then the fob is transmitting, the receiver is receiving but the code is either not synced or wrong.

The immobiliser can't be turned off, it is integral to the BeCM. You can get a device that over-rides it but it isn't cheap. You need to get the fob working and synced then you shouldn't have any problems.

It's only plastic, the engine would have eaten it and spat it out the exhaust.......

I was changing my spark plugs one day and one of the middle ones slipped out of the socket and was hanging down between the head and the exhaust heat shield. Missus was there who offered to fish it out as her hands were smaller. She got hold of the top, started lifting it out and it slipped out of her fingers and disappeared! It wasn't on the ground under the car so the bore scope came out to see if I could see it. Nope, no sign of it from above. From under the car looking up I still couldn't see it. After the best part of an hour, I eventually found it sitting on top of the engine mount. She hasn't volunteered to help since for some odd reason..

Should do, it works on anything with a BeCM with firmware later than V36 which is around mid 97. You can enter the EKA with the Nano rather than using the key. Whether that will mean you can subsequently lock and unlock with the key and no longer have to enter the EKA, I've no idea. Marty or Sloth should be able to tell you.

With the Nano you can turn off passive immobilisation but what that does is stop it from immobilising itself again if you unlock but don't start the engine within a minute. You can also turn off the EKA but I've no idea what that does I'm afraid. It could mean that it doesn't ask for it but equally it could mean that it won't accept it when it asks for it.