Morat wrote:

The poor Duchess is now running on 5 old Champions, 2 BPR6 and only one correct NGK. This will be remedied.

But at least she's running.....

Microcat just makes it even more confusing......
RH rear light lenses up to VIN XA430701 is AMR4100 which has the amber indicators
RH rear light lenses up to VIN XA430701 NAS spec is AMR4102 which also has the amber indicators (and from pictures looks identical to AMR4100)
RH rear light lenses from VIN YA430702 is XFB101720 which has the clear/grey indicators
RH rear light lenses up to VIN YA430702 NAS spec is XFB101740 which also has the clear/grey indicators (and from pictures looks identical to XFB101720)

So quite why an NAS spec car would have different light units, that look identical to the rest of world spec cars, I have absolutely no idea. Maybe the difference is in the bulb holders on the back or maybe the NAS ones don't have the built in reflector?

I gave up trying to work out the logic of car manufacturers long ago. As an example, an EU spec car must have a high intensity rear fog light that can be a single one on the offside (RH side on a UK car) or in the centre, or a matched pair on either side. A LHD Mercedes (and Porsche and probably a few others too) has one on the LH side (offside for a LHD car) but the cluster fitted on the RHS of the car doesn't have the LEDs fitted inside it. So by fitting the cluster for a RHD car to the RH side of a LHD car, you get the matched pair. So rather than making a LH and a RH cluster, they make ones with and without the LEDs fitted so there's 4 different parts when 2 would do the job.

If you've only ever owned post 99 cars then they will all have had the clear/grey lenses. A lot of people swap the earlier ones for the later ones as they assume they look better. My 96 Ascot has had them swapped so it would have originally had the amber lenses but now has the later ones.

No beeping when changing between ratios sounds a bit odd, does it actually change or just show on the dash that it has? In Europe, indicators (turn signals) must be amber front and rear, so up to 99 the rear lenses are amber at the top and fitted with clear bulbs, front's being the same, all amber lens and clear bulbs. From 99 model onwards they went over to the clear/grey tinted lenses but with amber bulbs so they still show an amber light. So a European spec 97 would have the amber rear light lenses. I assume they can be either amber or red in the US as some cars I've imported have had amber indicators that are separate to the stop lights while others have had indicators incorporated with the stop lights (a real pain when I've had to convert then to UK spec to register them here involving a lot of rewiring). US spec cars don't usually have the high intensity rear fog lights either so I've had to convert the reversing lights to indicators by fitting amber bulbs and fit aftermarket LED reversing/fog lamp clusters.

Hmm, something tells me it isn't cold, windy and raining on the other side of the world.......

Wear doesn't matter as long as there are no dead spots in the track. Making some blocks and doing a full calibration will sort out a lean.

We could treat Today like a French tradesman treats Tomorrow. As in, I'll be there Tomorrow but by the time Tomorrow arrives, it's now Today so I'll be there Tomorrow......

I'm wondering if they've ordered the locksets on the VIN from a 'will it physically fit' viewpoint rather than a coding viewpoint. Sounds like your only option now is to get Marty to do a bit of programming magic.

Change Immobiliser to Enabled. Once you've done that you should find that the LED on the fob lights when you put the key in the ignition.

You should then be able to sync a fob (no telling which one though) in the door latch using the method above.

The Immobiliser setting turns on or off passive immobilisation. What this means is that if you unlock the car but don't start the engine within a preset time (I think it's one minute) it will immobilise it again meaning you would have to press unlock again before you can start the car. The theory is that the coil around the ignition lock barrel causes the fob to transmit the unlock code meaning you wouldn't notice it. However, the coil is very fragile and breaks easily meaning you would have to press unlock every time you want to start the car if you don't start it as soon as you unlock it.

If you can successfully sync a fob, then you can change the Immobiliser setting back to Disabled.

What have I done to it today? Driven it, much the same as most other days. Although it has developed a machine gun inside the drivers door when I close the window. When I first got it almost 10 years ago, it was doing it then. Rather than spend money I built up the worn teeth with weld and ground them back down to the right shape. A repair that I expected to last a few weeks that lasted almost 10 years is pretty good in my book. This time, I've bought a new window regulator, a Britpart one as it was in stock and has a 2 year warranty. Lets see if that lasts as long as my repair on the old one did. Fitting it should give me something to do next week......

It's got a leak and the compressor is worn out.

Yes, it will always stay at the top.

My engine came out at 287,500 to go to V8 Developments and was still on the original cam then. They did say the chain was well worn though when they pulled it apart. As it's now just over 100,000 miles later, going on that the new one must be well worn by now.

The fob will only light up in the ignition if passive immobilisation is enabled in the BeCM. This is to stop the unlock button needing to be pressed if the car was unlocked but the engine not started within a minute. The coil around the ignition lock causes the fob to transmit and unlock code automatically. If Immobilisation has been disabled in the BeCM, then the fob won't be caused to transmit as it doesn't need it to.

However, I have come across a couple of cars where the fobs won't sync in the door lock if passive immobilisation has been turned off. Assuming you have a Nanocom, go into the BeCM settings and turn immobilisation to enabled and then try to sync again. Once synced you can turn it back off if you want.

A lot on the low side. The very early cars had the regulator set at 13.8V but with the higher calcium content in later batteries that can handle a higher charge rate, from around early 96, the regulator is at 14.4V.

JMCLuimni wrote:

Before I switch blades should I not be able to insert the current H&H key in the door of the H&H and use the Linley FOB (which could be the FOB that was meant for the H&H) to sync the locks?
With all that being said, does anyone have the definitive method of syncing key FOB to central locking? I’ve searched online and there are many ways suggested...... anyone have the balls on, money back sure to work method?

Yes, that's what I was getting at above. Put the H&H key in the H&H door lock and turn to lock, hold there, while holding press and hold the lock button on the Linley fob until the light starts to flash faster, release the fob button and turn the key back to centre. Then turn the key to unlock and hold there, press the unlock button on the Linley fob and hold until the light flashes faster, release the button on the fob, then turn the key back to centre. Remove key from the door lock and try pressing a button on the Linley fob. If the fob is correctly coded to the BeCM and the sync has worked then the fob should operate the central locking.

You can then prove you got them the wrong way round by doing the same with the Linley key and H&H fob in the Linley door. If you haven't tried this method (which is the method I was shown in confidence by the Service Manager at my LR main dealer as this is what they normally do and then charge people the coding fee), then try it first without swapping the locks/fobs in case you got them correct and just haven't used the correct sync method.

Rather than risk damaging the fobs, I'd swap the locks over if it were me...

I've never managed to get the blade out without splitting the fob casing.

Try to sync a fob in the door lock. If you put the key that fits the H&H lock in the door and turn it then press the lock button on the fob from the Linley and try to sync them, if it works you'll know you've got them the wrong way round. You'd need a key from one car and a fob from the other to use them though......

Then it will be a case of swapping them over or dismantling the fobs and swapping the key blades. I suspect the former will result in less chance of buggering up your new fobs.

Sounds good, but I'm wondering how you are getting the fuel rail up to 65 degrees in this weather? With a blowlamp?

Not quite Morat. If it was originally locked with the fob and then unlocked with the key, it will need the EKA entering every time. If it can be unlocked with the fob, then it can be locked or unlocked with the key and won't ask for the EKA. Hopefully, once the EKA has been entered with the Nano, then it will possible to lock and unlock with the key without it asking for the EKA.