JMCLuimni wrote:
Why do we even care that an SRS and AIRBAG FAULT light are on?
Because in the UK, it's an MoT failure and that means you can't drive the car on the road. That isn't to say that the tester is likely to notice that it never comes on as the bulbs have been taken out or, in some cases, such as a Renault I took in for MoT a while ago, some naughty person hasn't taken the front off the instrument panel and stuck a small square of black tape over it......
On a RHD car there is a connector beneath the steering column which is usually the cause of a drivers airbag fault, disconnecting and giving a squirt of contact cleaner before re-connecting will usually clear the fault. Never looked on the other side but if there is a connector behind the glovebox, that would be favourite for a passenger side fault.
romanrob wrote:
but I found that it was better to remove the sensor and cage, and get some emery paper down the hole, before greasing the cage and pushing the sensor into place.
If you can get them out. My experience is that the rears may come out if you are lucky, the fronts won't without resorting to drilling them out.
They should always come on when you first start up. The middle one is a warning that the handbrake is on, you are low on brake fluid or you don't have sufficient pressure in the system. They will all stay on until you have sufficient pressure but after that, ABS goes out when you reach 5 mph and the TC one comes on if there is a TC fault or TC is working (but then it just flickers on). If they are randomly coming on, and giving you ABS fault or Traction failure on the dash, then the most likely cause is a sensor not quite fully home. The one fault where hitting things with a hammer actually does do some good......
He's not listing it now so I'll just have to hope Direnza get them back in stock a bit sharpish. £999 isn't that far off for one from Allisport (https://www.allisport.com/shop/performance-products/alloy-radiators/range-rover-p38-v8-radiator/) although they are out of stock too.......
Where did you get the alloy rad from Rob? I need to order another Direnza for someone but they are currently shown as out of stock and Direnza told me they wouldn't have any for 3-5 weeks. As I need to take it to France in 3 weeks, it'll be pushing it.
Not sure what you mean about LRCat not showing pictures, that is a screen dump from LRCat? It shows rear handles and it gives the part numbers for LH and RH sides. Rear handles will be the same whether RHD or LHD, only the front's will be different.
Looks like the hook goes upwards
Is that with a poorly V8 or have you got the BMW diesel motor in yet?
From your description I've never seen anything along the top. My car, and quite a few others have the two brackets either side for the dog guard but there's only two of them and they are plastic. We'll have to wait until you can get a picture.
C'mon, spill it. What you done????
It was a combination of jealousy and the fact that James is Irish and has a sense of humour. Their loss, our gain.
The write up was on the dark side and, as they have screwed up search as well as everything else, took some finding. But I managed it after about 20 minutes, https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/linely-for-sale-in-michigan.49239/
When I first got the SE, which was on the 18 x 8 wheels, I commented in my local LR independent that the ride seemed harder. The comment was, you want 18" for looks and 16" for comfort.
davew wrote:
Serious question but I would not be surprised if someone has not tried it:
What would be the likely effects of having one of our (OEM) 'Spacesavers' on all four corners ?
Yes, I know it is only a matter of 255/60 to 235/70 tyres (20 mm) but it must affect traction.....
Mine has just that. The base version, which my police spec car was based on, has 16 x 7 inch wheels (Futura design) with 235/70 x 16 tyres rather than the 16 x 8 or 18 x 8 fitted to the rest. A lot of the early cars, particularly the diesel versions, had the 7" wheels and that is also what is used on the Disco 2. Originally it was only the higher spec versions that had the 8" wheels in either 16 or 18 inch diameter.
Having driven mine on the 235's, my Ascot on 18 x 8 (with the 265 section tyres) and a mates car on 16 x 8 wheels, the only difference I've noticed is that mine rides better due to the taller sidewalls.
Quite possibly, never tried swapping them around. Do you have a 5/16" 18 tpi die to run down the bolts to check?
Failed internal clutch, see https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/4hp22/4e-faq-s.html. On your other one, if it is OK in High range but only shows a problem in Low, that is a transfer box problem. So yes, you can make on good one out of two. Make sure you change the gearbox output shaft seal when you swap the transfer boxes over. RAVE says you should always do it if the transfer box is removed, I didn't and having to take the transfer box off again just to change the seal is a real pain.
Yup......
If there's play in it, replace it. As soon as they get a bit of play the seal no longer holds so they leak when turning, the coolant evaporates on the hot metal and all you notice is that the coolant level keeps dropping. The bearing is a sealed for life ball bearing race, the sort with a seal pressed onto both sides.