Looks fine, you've got the right sort of clips on the hose too.

StrangeRover wrote:

Do you think it will really take off in the coming years?

Bloody well hope not, they'll start upping the duty on it then. Seriously, an awful lot of more modern cars either can't be or are very expensive to convert as they use direct injection so that will restrict take up. There's far more out there than official figures suggest. DVLA records show somewhere in the region of 150,000 LPG cars on the road yet I've owned a Saab, a Range Rover Classic and 3 p38s, all on LPG but only one had it shown on the V5, all the others just showed petrol. So in reality, there's probably in excess of 500,000 of us running on it. As long as we keep buying it, then filling stations will keep selling it. There's one filling station near me that is supplied by Flogas. I can go to the Flogas depot and pay 54p per litre yet if I go to the garage down the road, it'll cost me 64.9p a litre. Now you aren't going to tell me that Flogas charge a garage that is buying thousands of litres a time the same 54p a litre as they charge me to fill my tank with 60 odd litres. So that garage is making over 10p for every litre they sell, far more than they make on petrol. So why shouldn't they continue selling it?

Yeah, by a long way. The Saab only had 253,000 on it when I sold it. I learnt a lot from that as it was my first LPG car. Considering I only paid £160 on eBay for it, and then ran it for 3 years (including driving it to Russia and back twice) it didn't do bad.

None. Pull the pipes, fit the U union and top up the dribble that you lost.

It's entirely possible but as mentioned the tank must be at least a certain distance (I think it is 5m) from buildings and the property boundary. Not that much of a problem if you live out in the sticks and I see tanks in people's gardens quite regularly in places like Norfolk where mains gas isn't available. Gas for home use such as heating and cooking, requires vapour so comes off an outlet on the top of the tank but to run your car you need liquid so you need a tank with a bottom take off too and then a pump to get it into your tank. You buy the bulk gas from your preferred supplier (although a lot won't fill a tank that they didn't supply or you don't hire from them) and use a meter to accurately inform HMRC how much you are using in your car so they can send you a bill for the Road Fuel Duty. If you can get it at the right price, it's worth doing but it isn't cheap to get set up in the first place, you're looking at around £2k for a suitable pump to start with. I came across a rural taxi company a few years ago that had 5 cars all running on LPG so the owner had his own tank and filling point for convenience. Due to the amount he was using he was getting a good deal on his gas too.

Blimey, you've got the lesser spotted battery cover (and a bolt missing from the RH bonnet latch.....).

The silicon hose is the same outside diameter as the original bits of rubber hose on each end of the brittle plastic pipe. I can't remember what year your car is but on the pre 99 GEMS, it is too fat to follow exactly the same route as the original where it goes under the alternator so I've routed mine behind it instead. It also has the advantage that it doesn't set rock hard like the original. I have never been able to pull the short hose off the top of the inlet manifold as it seems to weld itself on but the silicon stays nice and flexible.

Most common cause of an intermittent AC compressor is too large an air gap on the clutch. There isn't enough magnetism to pull it in but once in it will stay. Easy test is to set the HEVAC so it is trying to operate it and tap the clutch with a screwdriver handle. If it pulls in and stays in, then the air gap is too wide. If you take the front off, there are spacer washers behind it. Remove those until you have an air gap of between 18 and 30 thou.

If the link lead you are talking about is the additional one between the battery positive and the alternator (so giving an extra path rather than via the starter), just measure it. It's only short, about 18 inches would give enough slack to allow it to be routed neatly, I would think.

Most of us have taken the plate off and resealed it, then replaced the two hoses with 8mm ID single ply reinforced silicon tube. This is the stuff most of us have used http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/8mm-silicone-1-ply-radiator-heater-hose-1-metre-to-50-metres-blue-black.html. The only problem with it is the supplier who is often out of stock. You might have better luck finding it in the US.

If you decide to bypass the throttle body heater, a U tube is better than blanking the ends as the feed from the top of the engine also allows and air locks to find their way back to the header tank.

Hotel we used last time was Premier Inn, Swindon North, Broad Bush, Blunsdon, Swindon, SN26 8DJ. I haven't booked yet but will be doing.

I'm looking at the OEM ones as they are half the price of the genuine but appear the same (except for the bag they come in). Mines currently got orange poly bushes in it and they've been there for a good few miles so even OEM rubber ones should last, even with the mileage I do.

That's a cheap fix. You'd have been really pissed off if you'd paid for a new gearbox and fitting only to find it was exactly the same.

With Nanocom or similar. In BeCM, Settings, Alarm.

OK, so what bushes are people getting? These https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-radius-bush-anr3332g-p-3278.html or these https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-radius-bush-genuine-anr3332lr-p-7446.html. I'll get a pair of Lemforder Panhard rod bushes too. Who's staying Saturday night and which hotel (same one as last time, with the pub next door?).

Yes, it uses the ABS sensors to detect any wheel turning faster than the others and applies the brake to slow it down to the same speed as the slowest turning wheel. Only time I managed to fool it was by flooring the throttle on snow. Al 4 wheels lost traction and started spinning but as they were all spinning at the same speed, all it did was slither slowly down the camber of the road.

When they went over to 4 wheel traction control, which coincided with the change from GEMS to Thor. So anytime after mid 99. I think the brake modulator thing is also temperature dependant. 2 out of 10 where you are have suffered, a number in Australia have and some more in the States (but no idea of whereabouts) but I've not heard of it happening to anyone in Europe. They may be a bit brittle and break when taken out but that's plastic bits for you.

It's no different to the paranoia over being locked out and warnings never to use Superlock and numerous people wanting to know how to disable the system. I've always Superlocked mine every time I've locked it and it hasn't locked me out once in 8 years and 166,000 miles. But I did replace the door latch microswitches as soon as it started to suffer the dancing lock syndrome rather than ignore it and regard it as a P38 personality disorder.

The guy that bought OldShep's car called round to see me a few evenings ago. In the two years he's now owned it, he done nothing other than service it, refinish the wheels (as they were a little scruffy) and drive it. It had just been in for the MoT and had failed on the two little brake pipes at the back that always rust and less than half the bulbs working on his high level brake light. Other than that, and the drivers side heater blower having stopped working, it's done him well and he's still enjoying it. So it didn't really need a makeover.

You turn the key in the lock and then press the button on the fob until it flashes faster, release the fob button, then return the key to centre. Then repeat the other way. Sometimes, it won't sync if passive immobilisation is turned off, so you could try turning it back on, doing the sync, then turning it back on.

However, in saying that, one car I look after lost sync after the battery went flat and flatly refuses to re-sync. Passive immobilisation on or off it still won't sync. I've no idea why as it used to work fine and the owner just uses the key in the lock. Unfortunately she only has one working fob as the other one was lost and found after spending 10 months laying outside in the garden so is in a bit of a sorry state, prior to that both worked fine.

There shouldn't be any need for it, as you say, the oil seal keeps the oil in there, but I can't see it doing any harm.

Unlike when I owned a Classic, the welder doesn't see the light of day these days.....

WD40 was developed as a water dispersant but it was found that it also acts as a lubricant amongst other things. Basically it's a Jack of all trades, master of none in a can. Plus Gas is formulated specifically for freeing seized bolts but I must admit, ATF on it's own works pretty well too.