For how long is that going to be available?

I used a 3.8 drive socket and ratchet with an extension on the ratchet handle.

For the one I had to cut, I used a 1mm thick cutting blade and cut through the nut along the length of the bolt. That way you do minimal damage to the bolt but the nut comes off in two pieces.

When I took mine off I got all bar one out with a breaker bar. The last one seccumbed to the angle grinder......

Errm, fairly important as there's nothing else to support it......

You're right, clicking on my bookmarked link to the P38 Common Issues page takes me to the main page on the new site, as does any other useful pages. Years and years of useful information on how to do fusebox repairs, building the attenuators for fitting an aftermarket stereo, shortcuts to changing blend motors, heater O rings, etc, all bookmarked and now all going to the forum front page.

I found posting early in the morning here meant that RRTH was in bed so posts would at least exist for a few hours......

I'll be properly retired in 7 months and 28 days (not that I'm counting of course) but I'll probably be far too busy doing the things I don't have time to do now to spend time here then.

The power on the Purple wire comes from F15 in the BeCM but as it doesn't have a BeCM any longer, that would be pin 17 on C325 (18 way grey on the front of the BeCM). The Green/Red wire ties into the Green/Red that connects between the RH front door latch and the door outstation. If the RH front door still has a latch in it and the door is unlocked, there should be a ground on the Green/Red anyway from the door latch. Putting power on the Purple wire should make the pushbutton work as intended.

OK, so I've just put my cheapo charging hose with a built in pressure gauge on it. Connected to the low pressure side I've got 4 bar with engine running but the compressor not engaged, with compressor clutch engaged at idle it drops to 3 bar (which, the colour coded scale on the gauge says, Full) and if I rev the engine up to 2,000 rpm it drops further down to around 1.5 bar. Is that about right?

If he can get into the boot, behind the RH panel there's a black 12 way connector (not all ways are used though). On one side the wires are coloured but on the other side every wire is white. The white wires are the ones that go into the tailgate (so if anyone ever gets access to the wires they can't easily identify which wire does what to power the hatch solenoid). If he applies 12V to the white wire that is on pin 11 (fed with a Purple wire) and grounds the white wire on pin 10 (fed with a Green/Red wire) that will energise the tailgate release solenoid. It'll work the same as the pushbutton, so first timje will release the upper tailgate, second time the lower.

I bet I wouldn't be if he realised he banned my other username for life. At least when eBay and Gmail did their revamps, they give the option to switch to 'Classic' view.

Spare time? That's what comes of working from home a couple of days a week and sitting here with two laptops.

I don't know if it will ever forget, it doesn't seem to forget anything else. My throttle butterfly was intermittently sticking so it would idle at around 1,000 rpm and that made the downshifts very noticeable so I suspect yours is doing something similar. If it flags the error before you even start the engine that would suggest a wiring problem somewhere. May be nothing more than a connection you've had off needing a squirt of contact cleaner. Just a case of working out which one.....

0.62V is what mine shows so it's about spot on (or mine is wrong too), although that doesn't correlate with your throttle angle data being wrong. Unless it is staying at 0.6V and not going up as you open the throttle.

Jeeezus!!! Has anyone looked at it recently? There was an announcement that it was updating but how horrible can they make it look? There's not even an option to make it look like a forum again......

Have a carefull look at the connectors, particularly to the TPS. It isn't unknown for moisture to get under the insulation and start to rot through the conductors. As you will have had them all unplugged, you may have strained one and broken it. I've had to carve away the plastic and solder the wire directly to the end of the terminal on my temp sender and intake air temp sender for just this reason. Once soldered, I've slobbered the ends with RTV to keep the moisture out.

I used Johnsens Freeze 12 in my 93 Classic and it worked perfectly, but, like most things these days, I can no longer find a supplier.

Blimey, it must be in many small pieces to allow you to have got that out!

Rather than the Halfords stuff, I'd go for this https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-parts/engine-parts/engine-parts1/engine-oils/?521776241&1&cc5_251 as it's A3 SL spec so much higher than the A2 SH that the chart in RAVE recommends. That also means the change interval would be the same 6,000 miles. If you use this weeks discount code the ECP oil will be cheaper than the Halfords stuff too.

I was bought up on older 60s and 70s vehicles and 50 psi was always regarded as good oil pressure, anything less than 30 was bad and anything less than 10 at idle when hot meant you would shortly be searching the local scrapyards for a new engine. But in those days you could get a complete engine for £25 if you went down with a couple of mates and hauled it out yourself......

In Imgur click on the picture then click on the Copy button on the RHS of the screen. However, this doesn't as you might think, copy the link, it just highlights it. So right click on the highlighted link, click the image button on here, right click in that and paste the link into the box.

Looking forward to seeing it.

It's an engine that was designed in the 1960's (if not before).OK, so it's been bored and stroked to up the capacity but it is the same basic engine designed at a time when the only multigrade oil was 20W-50. Putting something like 5W-30 in it you may as well have filled the sump with cooking oil, I'm not surprised you've got low oil pressure.

I bought a V12 Jag back from the south of France a few years ago, engine design of similar vintage to ours. After around 60 miles the oil pressure when running was down to 10 psi and falling off the bottom of the gauge at idle. I'd been told it had been serviced before I picked it up so called the garage that had done it and asked what they had put in it. 5W-30 mate, same as we put in everything. Found a branch of Norauto (French Halfords), bought a gallon of 20W-50 and did an oil change over a drain at the side of the road. Oil pressure back up to around 45 psi when cruising and down to 15 psi at idle.

You may have done some damage running on thin oil but if you change it to something quite a bit thicker, chances are it will be fine. OK, it will need the crank grinding sooner or later but even after 380,000 my crank hasn't needed to be ground, just polished and fitted with new bearings when it was rebuilt coming up to 100,000 miles ago.

Quote: As for the 50psi figure, someone else on the Rover V8 Facebook Group has said that can't be right and would blow out the oil seals.

Utter bollocks. Nowhere on the engine is there an oil seal that has full oil pressure behind it. It is possible to damage an engine with too much oil pressure but too much is going to be at least twice what it should be as the damaged is that the bearing shells spread.

According to RAVE (General Specification Data, page 3) oil pressure on your engine should be 50 psi at 2,000 rpm with a warm engine so you are low, very low. Oddly, although the GEMS is exactly the same engine as far as the oil feed is concerned, they quote 30-40 at 2,400 rpm with a warm engine. In the old days when cars were actually fitted with oil pressure gauges, less than 15 at idle was considered low and 40-50 psi would be normal when running. Do you have a gauge plumbed in now so you can keep an eye on it? If you have, I'd consider bunging something nice and thick in there in the interim. After my engine was rebuilt at V8 Developments, I asked what oil I should use and was told 10W-50 or 10W-60 if I could get it, the 15W-40 I'd been using was considered too thin. Since then I've used 10W-60 (Castrol Edge, bloody expensive so only bought when ECP have one of their 50% off oils weekends). I can run my engine, switch it off then turn the ignition back on and have to wait for the oil pressure light to come on as it holds pressure for a good few seconds after being turned off.

Considering theage and mileage on your car, you do seem to have rather a lot of problems I would only expect on something with my sort of mileage.

I think it was the old, pre-94 R12, cars that had sight glasses, I've not noticed them on anything more modern. I've got a 91 Maserati lurking in the garage that, now I've got rid of one P38, Dina's daughter's Nissan Micra and the motorcycle that was blocking it in the garage, I've the space to get stuck into that. The high pressure hose from the compressor nees to be replaced as a previous owner had neatly tie wrapped lots of hoses and wiring but unfortunately this hose had been tie wrapped in such a way that the back of the PAS pump belt wore through it. Before I found out why it was leaking, I filled that a couple of times. I used to be able to get 1kg cans of Isceon R413A which was a drop in replacement for R12. I would sit the can on a pair of postal scales and open the valve with the engine running until the required 750g had gone in. Unfortunately, R413A is no longer manufactured as it is alledgedly ozone layer depleting, so the replacement for it now is R437A butI've not been able to find it in anything smaller than 13 kg bottles, a bit overkill when all I need is 750g. I suspect that might end up getting LPG as I've got an awful lot of that available......