I had mine done at a local branch of Formula 1 (but not sure if they are National). They charge £39.99 if they have to adjust anything, or £15 if they just check and find no adjustment is needed.
Blimey, mine only got rid of the mud from the inside of the mudflaps from Marty's track after the radius arm weekend yesterday. That was only due to torrential rain through Belgium, Holland and half of Germany......
That test checks everything, even if the compressor isn't turning it will still allow the Nitrogen to pass through it. What they should do is pressurise it, shut off the valve and then leave it for a while to see if the pressure drops. Simply listening for a leak will only show up a big leak but not a small one. It's quite possible that you can have a leak where it will work for maybe a couple of months but will be losing the refrigerant very slowly, listening definitely won't find that. Not sure why they use Nitrogen as the first step in the regas process is to vacuum the system to get everything out of it so you could just as easily use air as it's going to be sucked out anyway. Maybe something to do with air having water in it?
That looks like someone has turned the UK CD into a bunch of pdf files, exactly the same structure and content as the CD.
Is that the single file one that popped up on RR.net? So it's just one huge pdf but is created from the US version that covers all models.
If we can upload them to your server that would free up some space on my Google drive as it's almost up to the limit for free use and they keep prompting me to pay money for extra storage. I've got two further RAVE Cds covering other models if they could be of any use, one has a load of TSBs on it too.
GEMS is 34-37 psi
Check it when you've first turned the engine off and again after it's been standing. If the pressure has dropped then it's either leaking back through the regulator or through the injectors.
Haven't you got a tyre pump with a gauge? As long as you blast air through it afterwards to get the petrol out of the hose, it should be OK.
Probably the same one I've got here https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxqPPypF5J5bEM2RnBrQy10MmM. That's an iso file complete with the all important readme file. It needs to be run on something running a 32 bit operating system, it won't run on 64 bit.
Island still have Boge fronts and Rimmers list rear OEM which would have been Boge, so you may be able to get some still.
Pretty crap picture as it's getting dark and I was in danger of running into the back of someone driving at 55 mph on my favourite bit of test road.....
As you can see, 2,500 rpm is 70 mph. If cold, the torque converter won't lock up so the revs will be higher but not as high as you are running at. Sport only has an affect under acceleration holding the shift point to higher up the rev range but once cruising the revs will be normal.
Can't remember the actual revs but just over 80 mph is 3,000 rpm, I use that as my normal cruising speed in Europe (better quality roads than in the UK, 81 mph speed limit and very little traffic). If you are revving to 2,500 at 55 mph, then that sounds like you are staying in 3rd. What do you mean by the gate light not being on?
Just been out in mine and tried dropping down the 3rd at 65 mph, revs run at around the 3,100 that James experienced. According to RAVE, if the gearbox ECU detects a fault while the car is stationary, limp mode is to stay in 3rd gear or if it detects the fault while moving, it stays in 4th. Kickdown and the Sport button won't work either.
Gearbox Fault when starting is usually a sign that the battery is low (voltage drops below 10V while cranking) so that would put it into limp mode and as the fault is detected while stationary, it would only use 3rd gear.
That's the version that includes all models but doesn't have a lot of the extras like accessory fitting instructions. I've got the UK CD version that only covers the P38, L322 up to 2005 and the Defender uploaded to my Google Drive here https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc. It's an iso file that needs to be burnt to CD but can then be copied to hard drive and run from there.
Low battery voltage will cause a Gearbox Fault message to come up on the dash and if the gearbox ECU detects a fault it will go into limp mode, not use all the gears or cause the torque converter to lock. The final gear is actually the torque converter locking up, if you count the changes you'll find that although it has a 4 speed box, there are 4 changes making it appear to be a 5 speed. The other time it won't immediately lock up is after a cold start. I've noticed that I can start the car from cold, drive off and after a couple of miles it will appear to change up a gear when travelling at a constant speed. I mentioned it to Ashcrofts and was told that is normal so maybe it was still cold?
The inside of the hole on my radius arms was really rusted with scale. I cleaned it initially with a rotary wire brush in a power drill, then coarse emery cloth, then the really laborious job of chipping the scale off with a hammer and punch, before cleaning it finally with emery cloth again. As it was taking so long to do one, Marty pressed my new bushes into a spare radius arm while I got the second one ready for the bushes.
I've not known a single P38 that doesn't have a tappet rattle. I replaced the cam followers in mine thinking that would cure it and it made no difference whatsoever. It's never got any worse or better so I just ignore it. You might have a dodgy lambda sensor so one bank is running the default fuelling strategy. Use the Nano to look at the live readings while the engine is running. You are looking for a lambda sensor that switches between 0 and 5V. If the first box shows CL, then it is fine but you may find one bank is reading Open Loop or CL Fault. You'll get no CEL and the car will appear to be running fine. You may also have a fault code for Lambda heater which means one sensor will stop giving an output at idle so it will go open loop. GEMS does benefit from a squirt of MAF cleaner but you'll need to reset the adaptive values afterwards and let it re-learn the trims.
It wouldn't cause it to over fuel on start as it will be running open loop, but it may have caused the trims to set themselves way out. Do an adaptive reset and see if that cures it.
That's a bloody good deal. I've checked tracking in the past with two lengths of wood and a tape measure, didn't work very well though. When I changed my steering link rod last year I did it by working out which way it was pulling. I adjusted it as close as I could to the same length as the one I was taking off, then drove it down the road. As the nearside wheel is attached to the steering box, that won't have moved but the offside one will have done. If I needed to steer to the left then the offside wheel was obviously pointing too far to the right so I kept tweaking it a bit until it drove straight again. A bit hit and miss but it worked although it wouldn't have done if I'd changed anything between steering box and nearside wheel.