Lots of other things go through that footwell connector too. I've cut mine out and soldered and heatshrinked jumper wires in place. The one in the left footwell also suffers and carries the signals between the EAS ECU and the rocker switch and display. It's a fiddly job as there isn't a lot of slack on the cables but definitely worth doing.

Mine can't have been in there for more than 2 years and one bolt was still seized solid. I don't think copperslip is as good as it used to be either so I gave all my bolts a good slobbering of graphite grease when putting them back in. I use it on spark plug threads too on anything with alloy heads, I've come across far too many people that have sheared plugs off on other cars with platinum plugs that are left in there for 60k miles.

The compressor open circuit fault can be caused by too large an air gap on the compressor clutch. It should be between 18 and 30 thou (the lower the better) or the combined resistance in the various connectors between the HEVAC and the clutch itself means that the reduced voltage isn't enough to pull it in. It gets worse the higher the temperature too, mine would work fine up to an ambient temperature of around 23 degrees but at anything higher it wouldn't. Easy test for that is to wait until it should be pulling in and tap the clutch with a screwdriver handle. If it clicks in and stays in, then you need to take a shim or two out from behind the front of the clutch to get the air gap back in limits. However, that does mean you need to get AC grant to show Yes. The fact that you have had it working last year means you haven't made the mistake my mate did when he first got his P38 and assumed the light on the AC button had to be on for the AC to work and that a button marked AC OFF really did turn the AC off......

Heater core temp reading -20 may be why it isn't causing the AC grant to change to Yes as it is assuming that with air that cold you don't need the AC on as well. When we did Rick's (rcutler) O rings and checked it before putting everything back together, the heater core was showing -20 but was intermittent. Unplugging it and plugging it back in seemed to sort it and it started reading correctly so a bit of contact cleaner spray may be all that is needed. A couple of hours later we had the very same thing on Rutland's car too after changing his O rings so it does look like it is a connector that doesn't like being disturbed.

My Nano will not connect to the HEVAC first time but will if I come right out and go back in again, unless I've been into the ABS first, then it needs to be shut down and re-booted before it will connect to anything.

You can see the flexi one from the reservoir, the one with the cloth braided cover. That's the low pressure side so can be easily replaced but it's the other one that is a high pressure line (about 15 bar if I remember right) which needs to be replaced with the proper thing. You can't just bung a bit of pipe in with a couple of jubilee clips. It has metal ends to it with a flexi section in the middle and part number is ANR3321 (LHD) or ANR3322 (RHD).

That is the pressure accumulator for the brakes. It has two pipes, a flexible one from the brake reservoir and another high pressure one to the ABS modulator. For a man that lives on the top of a mountain, a problem there could be, errm, interesting. Stopping a P38 with no power braking needs both feet on the pedal on the flat.....

Just realised, it was you that had all sorts of grief with the XYZ switch. It was me using Richard_G that helped you with that one.

The orange poly bushes weren't serviceable the day they were put in..... Mine were the ones that took a lot of effort and swearing to get out and even more effort and swearing to chip the rust scale off the inside of the arms so the new OEM ones could be pressed in. Seeing how easily they started to melt when they got slightly warm from using an angle grinder to cut the head off one of the bolts, I think the easiest way of getting them out will be with a blowlamp.

I've seen you, and replied to some of your threads, over on the dark side but I have to use a different username there as this one got a lifetime ban. Welcome to the friendly forum.

As virtually all the wiring between the engine bay and the rest of the car goes through that big bundle under the coolant reservoir, it's quite possible your new lodgers have had a nibble and hit the wire to the temperature sensor.

Any chance of a picture? I found one in the bottom of the drivers door on the Ascot and couldn't for the life of me work out how it's supposed to go.

As well as the 12V starter output, the one I bought had a 19V output for a laptop (along with multiple connectors to fit different laptops) and 4 USB sockets. I figured that as well as being able to use it to start a car, I could use the USB outputs when on my European trips. I use an Android tablet with data SIM for streaming audio which feeds into a headphone amp (as the output from the tablet alone isn't high enough for the line in on the car stereo) as well as my phone which all need a USB supply for charging. I figured one big supply would make life easier. Unfortunately, I killed it before getting the chance to try it.....

Fantastic job, well done.

I bought a cheapo Chinese one on eBay that claimed to have a capacity of 82,000 mAh. I took that to be similar to Italian horsepower as 82 Ah is pretty good for a full sized car battery. However, it worked well and started the Ascot, the SE and a number of other cars. Then one day it decided it didn't want to charge and did nothing. Took it apart and found a stack of Li-ion packs, one of which was twice the thickness of the others. So, I can't recommend a brand, just avoid the cheapo ones (although I suspect if it was used as you describe rather than to start a 4.6 litre V8, it might survive anyway).

It was only one out of them all. Odd thing is me and Marty had them out a couple of years ago to change the axle so didn't expect a problem. Once the head had been cut off, Marty's air chisel made short work of getting it out.

Ahh, genuine ones then. They are sold singly compared with Allmakes ones that come in a pack of 5???

Be careful when cutting that you don't cut into the alloy coolant pipes behind. It has been done before, no names because he knows who he is......

That's right. The other thing that confuses people is that after you've added the pictures it still shows the command line when writing unless you hit the Preview button (hitting Preview again takes you back to writing mode).

You need skinny hands and go in from underneath. It's fiddly getting the new rings on, but can be done. Did you remove the duct or just shove it out of the way? I always cut it off as high as possible so the lower part can be pulled out and then put if back with duct tape (probably the only time duct tape is ever used for what it is intended for)

You had the correct link types (the ones marked as Direct Link and ending in jpg) you just didn't paste the link into the little box that pops up when you click the Image box (the one along the top after the Bold, Italic, Heading, Link boxes.

As Britpart don't make orange ones but Polybush do, I assume the ones on mine were Polybush. They've lasted and the car didn't feel too bad, it's just that now I'm on genuine rubber ones, I realise just how much better it can be.

I'm not happy David, I knew I was going grey but not bald as well.......