Makes a change, they normally crack on the side about where the Max level line is. Araldite won't bond property, plastic welding might work or just get a new one https://www.lrdirect.com/ESR2935-Coolant-Expansion-Tank-New-Rr-V8/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtr_mBRDeARIsALfBZA6eVCzwWt0pJR5v2hhXAJcMkzF8KyaHcF8StFd2mANk-wpKEOMSvUEaAhoLEALw_wcB

Don't forget there's a non-return valve on your tank inlet so you would need to overcome the spring pressure on that before anything would start to move. Liquid would go from one tank to the other but as soon as the pressures equalise (once you've got a dribble of liquid in your tank) then nothing more would flow unless you could raise the pressure in the tank you are trying to get the gas out of. Heating it up will raise the pressure but it isn't such a good idea......

Might be original or could have been changed many years ago, but at least you know why it cracked. It's always possible that with it being weakened anyway (as it is delaminating), if the bond still has some flex in it, it could have just chaffed on the support blocks and caused the crack.

You need a suitable pump, sorry.

Running it in series is a lot less neater on a Thor because of the way the hoses are laid out, on a GEMS it's pretty simple (and leaves you with less joints and potential leak points)

Heaving on the hoses to the heater core is a pretty sure fire way of causing the O rings to start leaking so the way I always do it is the remove the hose clip and then use a Stanley knife to slit the old hose lengthwise. That way it just pulls off without having to give it any grunt. The hose is scrap but as you are replacing it anyway it doesn't matter. While you are at it, I'd suggest altering the plumbing for the LPG reducer so it is in series with the heater. Instead of the Tees, I run the hose from the manifold to a 19-15mm reducer and then run that to the reducer. The return from the reducer then goes through another reducer and connects to the heater feed. Where you have the Tee in the return, just use a 19-19mm connector (or a new hose). That way you get full flow through both the reducer and the heater rather than giving the coolant a choice of taking the path of least resistance resulting in insufficient flow through one or the other. It'll warm the reducer quicker too so it will switch over sooner.

If the screen has been replaced before, there's a couple of metal tags at the bottom that should have rubber bits on them so the screen rests on the rubber and not the metal. These had been missed on on my SE so vibration chaffed on the edge of the screen and caused it to crack. The crack can be seen here, directly above the wiper arm hinge

Actually, that tyre looked much the same at the summer camp. Have a look here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1254-radius-arm-bushes-and-possible-meet?page=6 and if you look at the pictures I took, right click on them, select View Image and then click on the image to zoom in. So your dodgy radius arm bushes could have been the cause. If it was, swapping the wheels around should make it track true now they've been changed.

and get the tracking checked. It's actually set for very slight toe out (0 degrees 5 minutes to 0 degrees 15 minutes) so if someone has set it to parallel then it is toeing in slightly.

That would work, yes.

The wear on the tyre will cause more drag on that one so it will drift to the left. You can't have more toe in on one side than the other or you would simply have to steer more to the right to keep it straight so the toe in on both sides is the same. That tyre is still legal so I'd be inclined to swap them front to rear (or even diagonally if they aren't directional) to even the wear up and stop it reaching the point where it is no longer legal while you investigate the cause. I'm surprised you seem to have as many worn bits as you have. You car is one of the very last so I doubt it has done any huge mileage compared with some (mine for instance), my ball joints were replaced at around 320,000.

The excuse was that acceleration uses more fuel than driving at a constant speed. So why use fuel getting up to speed only to slow down a couple of hundred yards later.......

If both fronts are the same, it's caused by too much toe in, if it is only the nearside you need to slow down a bit more for roundabouts. Seriously, one of our company vehicles was going through nearside front tyres at a ridiculous rate but it was the one used by the person that covered Milton Keynes and not bothering to slow down for the hundreds or roundabouts was what had caused it.

That's right. Where the original bushes are the width of the arm with the two ends of the centre bush sticking out, the poly bushes are mushroom shaped. They come in 3 pieces, the two mushroom shaped poly bits that you push in from either side and the centre bush that you shove through the middle. So there is no gap between the inside of the mounting plate and the end of the bush to get a hacksaw in. An oxy torch would probably work nicely as they do seem to melt fairly easily so if you melted the mushroom head off, then you could get in there (but there's not mush room.....).

Yes. Set the meter on the Ohms range and the hotter it gets the lower the resistance. Hence it will read very low when open circuit (infinitely high resistance) and very hot when short circuit (very low resistance).

Undo the two bolts on each side that hold the anti-roll bar bushes to the axle so that can swing down out of the way. You also need to undo the steering link from the offside so that is out of the way too. Impact wrench should shock them free, Rutland's all came out without a problem it was just one of mine that was seized in. We used an angle grinder to cut the head off then Marty's air chisel shocked it out. Don't forget to disconnect the height sensor links too.

If you've got the thermistor, why not just try poking the wires into the plug and tie wrapping the naked sensor to the pipe? That will at least tell you if it is a sensor or wiring problem.

Found this place, http://www.silex.co.uk/shop/silicone-braided-hose/silicone-braided-hose-70%C2%B0-shore-red-outer/c-24/c-77/p-699. Not sure if it's the same hose or if they have it in stock, but it's an alternative to ASH.

The missing button is part of the surround for the window pack switches, so you'd need a complete surround although usually they are sold complete with the switchpack.

DSP, door amps or straight to the speakers? If DSP it could be the amp in the back dying,