gordonjcp wrote:

In an unguarded moment you might catch me wondering aloud about how to scale FlaskBB out.

Don't you bloody dare, just leave it as it is.

@Bolt, your thread has now miraculously disappeared. I continued our Conversation but I suspect you may have been banned so won't get to see it anyway.

That is something I can't work out. To me the idea of a forum is where you ask questions about things you don't understand, whether it is how to operate something or how to repair something. So why would the owner of a brand new L405, Velar, etc need to use a forum, he's got an owners handbook to find out how to operate it and the supplying dealer to fix it if anything needs fixing?

But surely, as it is no longer on RR.net, they can't claim it's copyright as they've binned it. It's much the same as digging through someones dustbin (although I'm pretty sure that's illegal too).....

Microcat doesn't even show the valet key, just the fobs but as Mark says, it should be possible to cut them from the lock bar code.

For how long is that going to be available?

I used a 3.8 drive socket and ratchet with an extension on the ratchet handle.

For the one I had to cut, I used a 1mm thick cutting blade and cut through the nut along the length of the bolt. That way you do minimal damage to the bolt but the nut comes off in two pieces.

When I took mine off I got all bar one out with a breaker bar. The last one seccumbed to the angle grinder......

Errm, fairly important as there's nothing else to support it......

You're right, clicking on my bookmarked link to the P38 Common Issues page takes me to the main page on the new site, as does any other useful pages. Years and years of useful information on how to do fusebox repairs, building the attenuators for fitting an aftermarket stereo, shortcuts to changing blend motors, heater O rings, etc, all bookmarked and now all going to the forum front page.

I found posting early in the morning here meant that RRTH was in bed so posts would at least exist for a few hours......

I'll be properly retired in 7 months and 28 days (not that I'm counting of course) but I'll probably be far too busy doing the things I don't have time to do now to spend time here then.

The power on the Purple wire comes from F15 in the BeCM but as it doesn't have a BeCM any longer, that would be pin 17 on C325 (18 way grey on the front of the BeCM). The Green/Red wire ties into the Green/Red that connects between the RH front door latch and the door outstation. If the RH front door still has a latch in it and the door is unlocked, there should be a ground on the Green/Red anyway from the door latch. Putting power on the Purple wire should make the pushbutton work as intended.

OK, so I've just put my cheapo charging hose with a built in pressure gauge on it. Connected to the low pressure side I've got 4 bar with engine running but the compressor not engaged, with compressor clutch engaged at idle it drops to 3 bar (which, the colour coded scale on the gauge says, Full) and if I rev the engine up to 2,000 rpm it drops further down to around 1.5 bar. Is that about right?

If he can get into the boot, behind the RH panel there's a black 12 way connector (not all ways are used though). On one side the wires are coloured but on the other side every wire is white. The white wires are the ones that go into the tailgate (so if anyone ever gets access to the wires they can't easily identify which wire does what to power the hatch solenoid). If he applies 12V to the white wire that is on pin 11 (fed with a Purple wire) and grounds the white wire on pin 10 (fed with a Green/Red wire) that will energise the tailgate release solenoid. It'll work the same as the pushbutton, so first timje will release the upper tailgate, second time the lower.

I bet I wouldn't be if he realised he banned my other username for life. At least when eBay and Gmail did their revamps, they give the option to switch to 'Classic' view.

Spare time? That's what comes of working from home a couple of days a week and sitting here with two laptops.

I don't know if it will ever forget, it doesn't seem to forget anything else. My throttle butterfly was intermittently sticking so it would idle at around 1,000 rpm and that made the downshifts very noticeable so I suspect yours is doing something similar. If it flags the error before you even start the engine that would suggest a wiring problem somewhere. May be nothing more than a connection you've had off needing a squirt of contact cleaner. Just a case of working out which one.....

0.62V is what mine shows so it's about spot on (or mine is wrong too), although that doesn't correlate with your throttle angle data being wrong. Unless it is staying at 0.6V and not going up as you open the throttle.

Jeeezus!!! Has anyone looked at it recently? There was an announcement that it was updating but how horrible can they make it look? There's not even an option to make it look like a forum again......

Have a carefull look at the connectors, particularly to the TPS. It isn't unknown for moisture to get under the insulation and start to rot through the conductors. As you will have had them all unplugged, you may have strained one and broken it. I've had to carve away the plastic and solder the wire directly to the end of the terminal on my temp sender and intake air temp sender for just this reason. Once soldered, I've slobbered the ends with RTV to keep the moisture out.

I used Johnsens Freeze 12 in my 93 Classic and it worked perfectly, but, like most things these days, I can no longer find a supplier.

Blimey, it must be in many small pieces to allow you to have got that out!

Rather than the Halfords stuff, I'd go for this https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-parts/engine-parts/engine-parts1/engine-oils/?521776241&1&cc5_251 as it's A3 SL spec so much higher than the A2 SH that the chart in RAVE recommends. That also means the change interval would be the same 6,000 miles. If you use this weeks discount code the ECP oil will be cheaper than the Halfords stuff too.

I was bought up on older 60s and 70s vehicles and 50 psi was always regarded as good oil pressure, anything less than 30 was bad and anything less than 10 at idle when hot meant you would shortly be searching the local scrapyards for a new engine. But in those days you could get a complete engine for £25 if you went down with a couple of mates and hauled it out yourself......