You're right, it doesn't seem to exist but on LRCat the oil pump gears aren't listed either, just a complete front cover. The oil pressure relief valve is removable and has an O ring which has a tendancy to leak, so people have removed it to replace the O ring. You are quite correct in how it works, it's simply a spring loaded plunger that lifts off a seat and allows oil to dribble back to the sump if the pressure is too high. If the O ring is leaking, it also allows oil to dribble down the side of the block, usually dripping off the oil filter. Too much oil pressure can do just as much damage as too little. A trick on old Ford engines when the pump started to wear bringing the light on at idle, was to fill with thicker oil and put a washer behind the spring (then flog it quick....) so it took much more pressure to lift it off the seat.

Seems like Marty is the ONLY person who can post. His two and one from a new member from the early hours of yesterday morning are the only new posts.

I pleaded ignorance and posted in the Community Help section last night explaining that my posts are being held until they've been checked and wondered if it was a software glitch. That also popped up a message saying it would be visible once it had been checked by a moderator. It still hasn't appeared, neither has a post I sent about 7pm last night and looking at the forum, neither has anything else since yesterday evening. Maybe we are being to hard on poor old RRTH and it's a software reset and everyone now needs posts to be held and checked so he's sitting there with hundreds of message to check.

Tried it before, didn't even get an acknowledgement. I don't think they care as long as the advertisers keep paying (although you'd think that by now anyone not running an ad blocker deserves to be bombarded with crap).

Bugger, been sussed. Despite using a different user name, my posts are now being held too.

I think if it is anyone that is also on here, it's better to PM them rather than post on the forum. There was a thread a couple of weeks ago from a guy who had some roof rack mounts made and asked if people would be interested and quoted rough prices. He got a lifetime ban for advertsing without asking first. I only know about it as we were having an email exchange as he ordered a Direnza alloy radiator and had it sent to me so I could forward it on to him. Apparently he was on his second username anyway having been banned for no apparent reason in the past. So it isn't just us Brits, RRTH hates everyone.

I tried posting and mine appeared immediately although as Gilbertd was banned for life I use a different username on there now. Maybe my idea of adding, "Also sometimes known as Gilbertd" to my signature isn't such a good idea.

However, now posts have been on there linking to threads here, our silly little, purile forum, as RRTH described it in an email to me, he might be realising that it hasn't gone away and is a threat to his empire.

Seems it's a day for easy ones.

Wonky window

and the reason why. Nothing broken other than the head sheared off a rivet. As the other two rivets had been replaced with M6 bolts and nylock nuts, no idea why that one hadn't

Although I needed to drill the hole out slightly, had I known the problem I could have done it at one of the Autoroute services. I had plenty of time, I was two hours early for the ferry home. It might have made the drive back a bit more comfortable, although having just been out in it now, the AC is struggling with an outside temperature of 31 degrees so I suspect it's a bit low on refrigerant. What's the betting I can't get it booked in until after the heatwave has finished?

Huh? That was only for new members, the first 10 or so posts had to be checked and approved. If they do it for everyone that will kill it completely.

Loctite would be a good idea. Some new pads come with replacement caliper bolts that have a dollop of something I assume to be a locking compound on the threads. I always put a little blob of Loctite (the stuff that they claim can be undone with normal tools) on them when putting them in if I don't have new bolts.

Yes, when I first got mine. Mark the hex on the adjuster so you can see what position it is in now, slacken the locknut, screw the adjuster in until you feel resistance, back it off a quarter turn or slightly less and nip the locknut up again. You'll probably need to use a socket to undo it (hence marking where it was) but nip it up with a ring spanner or crows foot holding it in place with the allen key. The other place for slack is in the rubber coupling at the top of the lower column.

Alternatively do it how it used to be done in the old days, Fit a Tee into the hole with the pressure switch screwed into one leg and the capilliary tube for the gauge into the other.

Well, I got back home just over half an hour ago and can confirm I had my expected failure, which under normal circumstances would be very minor but wasn't. Coming through Lyon with the HEVAC telling me it was 38 degrees outside, I had the window open to have a cigarette. Pressed the button to close the window and there was a loud crack from inside the door and the window went all lopsided on me. Presumably one of the plastic bits that sit in the runners has snapped. That meant I could only close the window as far as I could with my hand on the top of it pulling it up straight. So I could never completely close it so I've spent the rest of the journey attempting to air condition most of rural France (and failing dismally). In fact, as fast as cold air came out of the vents, it disappeared out the window only to be replaced with very hot air......

I'll pull the door panel off in a while (once I've had a shower and changed into some non-sweat soaked clothes) and see what exactly broke.

It is possible to take the head off complete with manifold and heat shield but you need a short socket that will fit under the heat shield to get to the top head bolts. As the bolts come out you need to lift the head up to allow room for the socket. I've done it using wooden wedges, someone did it on my car shortly before I got it but jammed screwdriver in there and nicked the head face causing the head gasket to blow shortly afterwards.

Have a look at this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1147-at-just-the-wrong-time-of-the-year It was driven 40 miles to me and had been like it for a couple of weeks. It was only because the noise it made was becoming embarrassing when doing the school run he decided it needed something doing with it. The engine had top hat liners and no marks on them or the block face at all, but the head was skimmed anyway but only needed a couple of thou taking off it, so no damage to the head either.

Yiu shouldn't need to work it out, as long as the trailer load is balanced, then it is likely to be OK. If you can just lift the front of the trailer by grabbing the towhitch, then it is going to be about right. If it feels like it is welded to the ground, it's probably too heavy......

Getting it properly loaded and the nose weight correct is a lot more important than many seem to realise and loading a car properly makes all the difference. I tend to drive on watching the rear of the car and stop as soon as the rear starts to drop on the suspension. Too far back, so insufficient nose weight will cause the trailer to start to snake and my experience is that too much will cause vibrations. I had a shuddering from about 65 mph on my drive down Thursday/yesterday as the nose weight was too high. Way too high in fact. I'd hired a trailer from my usual place but one of their Brian James trailers had been nicked so they had put an Indespension that they'd recently taken in part ex onto their hire fleet. It had previously been used with a race car so has the rack on the front for the rain tyres. As I was only bringing down a motorcycle, it made sense to strap it to that resulting in 180 kgs of MV Agusta sitting in front of the front axle. Nose weight on the P38 is 150 kgs so I was probably well over that. Picking up a 66 Ford Mustang on Monday to bring back so I'll be able to load that properly and get the weight distribution right for the journey back.

You are right though. The number of caravans you see where the back of the car is on the floor suggests they've loaded all the luggage in the front of the van and not given any thought to getting it balanced.

It isn't something I've ever heard of and I live in a hard water area. I suspect the 50% anti-freeze will kill the limescale anyway. Using plain water will cause steel parts to rust, hence core plugs rusting out from the inside.

Just don't go sharing it with that other lot over there....

(Gilbertd, also sometimes known as Richard_G)

Wasn't a GMP one was it? It could have been mine.......