Low battery voltage will cause a Gearbox Fault message to come up on the dash and if the gearbox ECU detects a fault it will go into limp mode, not use all the gears or cause the torque converter to lock. The final gear is actually the torque converter locking up, if you count the changes you'll find that although it has a 4 speed box, there are 4 changes making it appear to be a 5 speed. The other time it won't immediately lock up is after a cold start. I've noticed that I can start the car from cold, drive off and after a couple of miles it will appear to change up a gear when travelling at a constant speed. I mentioned it to Ashcrofts and was told that is normal so maybe it was still cold?

The inside of the hole on my radius arms was really rusted with scale. I cleaned it initially with a rotary wire brush in a power drill, then coarse emery cloth, then the really laborious job of chipping the scale off with a hammer and punch, before cleaning it finally with emery cloth again. As it was taking so long to do one, Marty pressed my new bushes into a spare radius arm while I got the second one ready for the bushes.

I've not known a single P38 that doesn't have a tappet rattle. I replaced the cam followers in mine thinking that would cure it and it made no difference whatsoever. It's never got any worse or better so I just ignore it. You might have a dodgy lambda sensor so one bank is running the default fuelling strategy. Use the Nano to look at the live readings while the engine is running. You are looking for a lambda sensor that switches between 0 and 5V. If the first box shows CL, then it is fine but you may find one bank is reading Open Loop or CL Fault. You'll get no CEL and the car will appear to be running fine. You may also have a fault code for Lambda heater which means one sensor will stop giving an output at idle so it will go open loop. GEMS does benefit from a squirt of MAF cleaner but you'll need to reset the adaptive values afterwards and let it re-learn the trims.

It wouldn't cause it to over fuel on start as it will be running open loop, but it may have caused the trims to set themselves way out. Do an adaptive reset and see if that cures it.

That's a bloody good deal. I've checked tracking in the past with two lengths of wood and a tape measure, didn't work very well though. When I changed my steering link rod last year I did it by working out which way it was pulling. I adjusted it as close as I could to the same length as the one I was taking off, then drove it down the road. As the nearside wheel is attached to the steering box, that won't have moved but the offside one will have done. If I needed to steer to the left then the offside wheel was obviously pointing too far to the right so I kept tweaking it a bit until it drove straight again. A bit hit and miss but it worked although it wouldn't have done if I'd changed anything between steering box and nearside wheel.

Makes a change, they normally crack on the side about where the Max level line is. Araldite won't bond property, plastic welding might work or just get a new one https://www.lrdirect.com/ESR2935-Coolant-Expansion-Tank-New-Rr-V8/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtr_mBRDeARIsALfBZA6eVCzwWt0pJR5v2hhXAJcMkzF8KyaHcF8StFd2mANk-wpKEOMSvUEaAhoLEALw_wcB

Don't forget there's a non-return valve on your tank inlet so you would need to overcome the spring pressure on that before anything would start to move. Liquid would go from one tank to the other but as soon as the pressures equalise (once you've got a dribble of liquid in your tank) then nothing more would flow unless you could raise the pressure in the tank you are trying to get the gas out of. Heating it up will raise the pressure but it isn't such a good idea......

Might be original or could have been changed many years ago, but at least you know why it cracked. It's always possible that with it being weakened anyway (as it is delaminating), if the bond still has some flex in it, it could have just chaffed on the support blocks and caused the crack.

You need a suitable pump, sorry.

Running it in series is a lot less neater on a Thor because of the way the hoses are laid out, on a GEMS it's pretty simple (and leaves you with less joints and potential leak points)

Heaving on the hoses to the heater core is a pretty sure fire way of causing the O rings to start leaking so the way I always do it is the remove the hose clip and then use a Stanley knife to slit the old hose lengthwise. That way it just pulls off without having to give it any grunt. The hose is scrap but as you are replacing it anyway it doesn't matter. While you are at it, I'd suggest altering the plumbing for the LPG reducer so it is in series with the heater. Instead of the Tees, I run the hose from the manifold to a 19-15mm reducer and then run that to the reducer. The return from the reducer then goes through another reducer and connects to the heater feed. Where you have the Tee in the return, just use a 19-19mm connector (or a new hose). That way you get full flow through both the reducer and the heater rather than giving the coolant a choice of taking the path of least resistance resulting in insufficient flow through one or the other. It'll warm the reducer quicker too so it will switch over sooner.

If the screen has been replaced before, there's a couple of metal tags at the bottom that should have rubber bits on them so the screen rests on the rubber and not the metal. These had been missed on on my SE so vibration chaffed on the edge of the screen and caused it to crack. The crack can be seen here, directly above the wiper arm hinge

Actually, that tyre looked much the same at the summer camp. Have a look here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1254-radius-arm-bushes-and-possible-meet?page=6 and if you look at the pictures I took, right click on them, select View Image and then click on the image to zoom in. So your dodgy radius arm bushes could have been the cause. If it was, swapping the wheels around should make it track true now they've been changed.

and get the tracking checked. It's actually set for very slight toe out (0 degrees 5 minutes to 0 degrees 15 minutes) so if someone has set it to parallel then it is toeing in slightly.

That would work, yes.

The wear on the tyre will cause more drag on that one so it will drift to the left. You can't have more toe in on one side than the other or you would simply have to steer more to the right to keep it straight so the toe in on both sides is the same. That tyre is still legal so I'd be inclined to swap them front to rear (or even diagonally if they aren't directional) to even the wear up and stop it reaching the point where it is no longer legal while you investigate the cause. I'm surprised you seem to have as many worn bits as you have. You car is one of the very last so I doubt it has done any huge mileage compared with some (mine for instance), my ball joints were replaced at around 320,000.

The excuse was that acceleration uses more fuel than driving at a constant speed. So why use fuel getting up to speed only to slow down a couple of hundred yards later.......

If both fronts are the same, it's caused by too much toe in, if it is only the nearside you need to slow down a bit more for roundabouts. Seriously, one of our company vehicles was going through nearside front tyres at a ridiculous rate but it was the one used by the person that covered Milton Keynes and not bothering to slow down for the hundreds or roundabouts was what had caused it.

That's right. Where the original bushes are the width of the arm with the two ends of the centre bush sticking out, the poly bushes are mushroom shaped. They come in 3 pieces, the two mushroom shaped poly bits that you push in from either side and the centre bush that you shove through the middle. So there is no gap between the inside of the mounting plate and the end of the bush to get a hacksaw in. An oxy torch would probably work nicely as they do seem to melt fairly easily so if you melted the mushroom head off, then you could get in there (but there's not mush room.....).

Yes. Set the meter on the Ohms range and the hotter it gets the lower the resistance. Hence it will read very low when open circuit (infinitely high resistance) and very hot when short circuit (very low resistance).