BP withdrew LPG from their forecourts, or at least the ones they own (the ones with M&S and/or Wild Bean Cafe) rather than the BP signed ones that are independently owned, some of whom still have LPG, whereas Shell are increasing the numbers with their tie up with Calor and promoting the Autogas brand. Morrisons and Asda commonly have LPG (and are usually cheap), but Tesco no longer do it and a lot of Sainsburys withdrew it too. If I can fill up at my local Flogas depot at 57p per litre, I will but otherwise I fill up wherever is most convenient. 70p a litre is still a lot cheaper than £1.25 a litre for petrol.
Not sure there is an increase in it, although it has had some very positive feedback recently (Sadiq Khan, the mayor of London, is suggesting that taxis are converted to LPG to improve the air quality in London) but the increased use of direct injection engines (which are much harder, if not impossible, to convert) hasn't helped. The biggest problem is that DVLA only show something like 150,000 converted vehicles so it is considered a minority fuel yet of the 5 LPG converted cars I've owned, only 2 have had LPG shown on the V5. So the actual number is likely to be nearer 500,000. A much bigger market that the filling stations think.
1) Because the LPG system (assuming a multipoint, a singlepoint is stand alone) slaves off the petrol system which needs cold running enrichment (choke) but LPG doesn't so if it switched immediately it would be running too rich until warmed up.
2) if you mean a fuel map, not exactly. The petrol ECU still controls the fuelling based on the normal sensors (Lambda, MAF, TPS) and the LPG system slaves off it, but there is correction programmed into the LPG ECU. So, if at a particular load and revs the petrol systems needs the injectors to open for 8mS, for the same load and revs the LPG injectors may need to be open for 11mS. The LPG controller intercepts the pulses to the petrol injectors and is programmed to add 3mS to the injector pulses at that load and revs. The amount it needs to add will vary at different load and revs so the LPG controller contains it's own correction map.
3) Best I've managed on a run without a trailer is 231 miles on a 65 litre fill. Worst was 145 miles on the same 65 litres with a sodding great, fully loaded, trailer on the back.
I'm not on FB, I want a picture!!!
Numbers appear to be sequential with the year letter changing each year. So if you can find out what the VIN of the very first one produced was, yours will just be your VIN number minus the number of the first.
So it does look like someone made a 4.6 but using a block that had originally been made for a 4.0 litre Disco. That probably explains why the engine number has been mullered.
Slump moulding or vacuum forming ABS would be other options if it can be done cheaply enough. As for the cost of doing them in GRP, I could buy enough gel coat, resin, mat and hardener to make at least 10 sets for no more than £50. On top of the cost of a pair of Britpart ones to make the moulds from (with a bit of fettling to make them fit if everything else from Britpart is anything to go by), I'd be looking at a spend in the region of £200. That would make them work out at around £20 a pair to produce the first batch, after that they would get really cheap.
The moulds would obviously need to be bonded to a heavy base to stop them walking around the bench while stippling. The moulds I made for the sideskirts may have been about 4 feet long but only 6 inches wide, so I bonded heavy wood bases to them to make them sit flat on the bench. Not sure how similar they are to the ones on a Classic but my LSE didn't have mud shields on either rear disc as they had presumably rotted away years ago so that would be a further set of potential customers). There could be a nice little earner there once I retire in 13 months, 4 days time (not that I'm counting of course).
I still think taking a mould and making them in fibre glass would be the easiest and cheapest option, admittedly the most messy but easy and cheap none the less. I'd just need a pair of brand new ones to start with, slobber with 3 or 4 coats of wax polish, paint on a layer release agent (PVA), a layer of gel coat (coloured resin), then 3 or 4 layers of resin and chopped strand mat. Trim the edges while the resin is still plastic and pop off once hard. Then you'll have a mould to repeat the process with as many times as you like. Wax polish, release agent, gel coat, a few layers, trim the edges and pop out a nice new shield. It would just need the metal strip adding although in my experience getting the screws out that hold the metal strip to the hub without shearing the heads off is the bit that causes the most grief.
I had the same with the ABS lamp. A new tester at my local station drove it very slowly onto the ramp then came out and told me he couldn't test it as the ABS lamp was on. Before I had chance to say anything, his boss told him to drive it around the yard and not to drive like a girl in future.
Rotary coupler you mean.......
Yes, it may seem to be a pretty insignificant part but airbag fault and no horn are both MoT failures so it is fairly important (or you take the bulb out of the SRS warning lamp and wire a big pushbutton on the dash to operate the horn....).
Clive603 wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
If someone was to buy a pair of new ones it would be dead easy to take a mould off them and knock them up in fibreglass. They don't need to be steel after all, they only keep the crap off the inside of the discs.
Yeess. But total Yuck job. Especially if you aren't geared up to handle the horrible stuff.
It isn't that bad. I had a pair of moulds that I made to produce some sideskirts for a car where the originals were over 500 notes a time. Lent the moulds to someone who wanted to produce a pair in carbon fibre and never got them back but still got a half full 25 litre drum of resin and the organic peroxide hardener (although I suspect both are well past their sell by date by now). As long as you've got decent latex gloves and somewhere well ventilated to do it, it's not that bad a job. Admittedly, my garage did have an area with about an inch less headroom than everywhere else where the drips of resin had formed a nice coating on the floor. If they were made so the gelcoat side was visible from under the car, they'd look pretty decent too.
Sloth wrote:
I've just bought CAT101160 and CAT101170 - fitted perfectly. And very cheap. I should have a twin exhaust - though one half is missing, so I only have the passenger side currently, where an early P38 with single exhaust would have been drivers side only.
Wrong bit, those are the mudflaps not the mud shields that go on the back of the brake disc.
I suspect someone has used Loctite on it at some time and it just isn't going to come off without getting brutal. Why do you need to take it off anyway?
Not that it really matters as when Ray top hats a block the faces of the block are skimmed which removes the engine number. He stamps the engine number back onto it so if you ask he'll stamp it with the number that matches the V5. The other difference is the earlier engines had the number stamped in whereas later ones had it dot etched as in the picture Rutland Rover posted of his.
I can confirm a couple of those, 42D is high compression 4.0 litre GEMS and 46D is high compression 4.6 GEMS. These later changed to 59D and 60D respectively for the Thor variant. If 56 is 4.0 litre Disco, then it might be worth checking the stroke on the engine. Although as someone has tried to disguise the number then it may well be that the block started off as a 4.0 litre Disco motor that has since had a few bits changed. A change of crank, rods and pistons will turn a 4.0 litre into a 4.6 and the Disco used the Thor motor (although why there should be a different code for a 4.0 litre Thor fitted to a P38 and a 4.0 litre Thor fitted to a Disco is anyone's guess). From the honing marks on the bores it looks like it hasn't been run that much since someone had it apart.
No10Chris has an odd engine number on the one in his car. That was a Land Rover replacement fitted a few years ago. His might also be the same format.
JMCLuimni wrote:
Don’t cut the steering wheel.....
Why not? It's only on his old Jeep, not anything important........
If someone was to buy a pair of new ones it would be dead easy to take a mould off them and knock them up in fibreglass. They don't need to be steel after all, they only keep the crap off the inside of the discs.
Depends what spec you want, see http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/short_engines/index.shtml and http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/long_engines/index.shtml
That engine number is completely the wrong format, it should start 60D. What engine number is shown on the V5? I'm wondering if it is one of the mythical Coscast blocks RPi were selling at some eye watering price? They didn't fit top hat liners but did put an O ring around the liner which would explain why it has shifted (and, as you can hear it tapping, is moving with the piston) but isn't letting coolant around the edge so steam cleaning the combustion chamber and pressurising the cooling system.
Doh, sorry my fault, there's actually lots of posts. i deleted some spam without hiding it first which results in the heading saying there's no posts.