Probably the same one I've got here https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxqPPypF5J5bEM2RnBrQy10MmM. That's an iso file complete with the all important readme file. It needs to be run on something running a 32 bit operating system, it won't run on 64 bit.
Island still have Boge fronts and Rimmers list rear OEM which would have been Boge, so you may be able to get some still.
Pretty crap picture as it's getting dark and I was in danger of running into the back of someone driving at 55 mph on my favourite bit of test road.....
As you can see, 2,500 rpm is 70 mph. If cold, the torque converter won't lock up so the revs will be higher but not as high as you are running at. Sport only has an affect under acceleration holding the shift point to higher up the rev range but once cruising the revs will be normal.
Can't remember the actual revs but just over 80 mph is 3,000 rpm, I use that as my normal cruising speed in Europe (better quality roads than in the UK, 81 mph speed limit and very little traffic). If you are revving to 2,500 at 55 mph, then that sounds like you are staying in 3rd. What do you mean by the gate light not being on?
Just been out in mine and tried dropping down the 3rd at 65 mph, revs run at around the 3,100 that James experienced. According to RAVE, if the gearbox ECU detects a fault while the car is stationary, limp mode is to stay in 3rd gear or if it detects the fault while moving, it stays in 4th. Kickdown and the Sport button won't work either.
Gearbox Fault when starting is usually a sign that the battery is low (voltage drops below 10V while cranking) so that would put it into limp mode and as the fault is detected while stationary, it would only use 3rd gear.
That's the version that includes all models but doesn't have a lot of the extras like accessory fitting instructions. I've got the UK CD version that only covers the P38, L322 up to 2005 and the Defender uploaded to my Google Drive here https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc. It's an iso file that needs to be burnt to CD but can then be copied to hard drive and run from there.
Low battery voltage will cause a Gearbox Fault message to come up on the dash and if the gearbox ECU detects a fault it will go into limp mode, not use all the gears or cause the torque converter to lock. The final gear is actually the torque converter locking up, if you count the changes you'll find that although it has a 4 speed box, there are 4 changes making it appear to be a 5 speed. The other time it won't immediately lock up is after a cold start. I've noticed that I can start the car from cold, drive off and after a couple of miles it will appear to change up a gear when travelling at a constant speed. I mentioned it to Ashcrofts and was told that is normal so maybe it was still cold?
The inside of the hole on my radius arms was really rusted with scale. I cleaned it initially with a rotary wire brush in a power drill, then coarse emery cloth, then the really laborious job of chipping the scale off with a hammer and punch, before cleaning it finally with emery cloth again. As it was taking so long to do one, Marty pressed my new bushes into a spare radius arm while I got the second one ready for the bushes.
I've not known a single P38 that doesn't have a tappet rattle. I replaced the cam followers in mine thinking that would cure it and it made no difference whatsoever. It's never got any worse or better so I just ignore it. You might have a dodgy lambda sensor so one bank is running the default fuelling strategy. Use the Nano to look at the live readings while the engine is running. You are looking for a lambda sensor that switches between 0 and 5V. If the first box shows CL, then it is fine but you may find one bank is reading Open Loop or CL Fault. You'll get no CEL and the car will appear to be running fine. You may also have a fault code for Lambda heater which means one sensor will stop giving an output at idle so it will go open loop. GEMS does benefit from a squirt of MAF cleaner but you'll need to reset the adaptive values afterwards and let it re-learn the trims.
It wouldn't cause it to over fuel on start as it will be running open loop, but it may have caused the trims to set themselves way out. Do an adaptive reset and see if that cures it.
That's a bloody good deal. I've checked tracking in the past with two lengths of wood and a tape measure, didn't work very well though. When I changed my steering link rod last year I did it by working out which way it was pulling. I adjusted it as close as I could to the same length as the one I was taking off, then drove it down the road. As the nearside wheel is attached to the steering box, that won't have moved but the offside one will have done. If I needed to steer to the left then the offside wheel was obviously pointing too far to the right so I kept tweaking it a bit until it drove straight again. A bit hit and miss but it worked although it wouldn't have done if I'd changed anything between steering box and nearside wheel.
Makes a change, they normally crack on the side about where the Max level line is. Araldite won't bond property, plastic welding might work or just get a new one https://www.lrdirect.com/ESR2935-Coolant-Expansion-Tank-New-Rr-V8/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtr_mBRDeARIsALfBZA6eVCzwWt0pJR5v2hhXAJcMkzF8KyaHcF8StFd2mANk-wpKEOMSvUEaAhoLEALw_wcB
Don't forget there's a non-return valve on your tank inlet so you would need to overcome the spring pressure on that before anything would start to move. Liquid would go from one tank to the other but as soon as the pressures equalise (once you've got a dribble of liquid in your tank) then nothing more would flow unless you could raise the pressure in the tank you are trying to get the gas out of. Heating it up will raise the pressure but it isn't such a good idea......
Might be original or could have been changed many years ago, but at least you know why it cracked. It's always possible that with it being weakened anyway (as it is delaminating), if the bond still has some flex in it, it could have just chaffed on the support blocks and caused the crack.
You need a suitable pump, sorry.
Running it in series is a lot less neater on a Thor because of the way the hoses are laid out, on a GEMS it's pretty simple (and leaves you with less joints and potential leak points)
Heaving on the hoses to the heater core is a pretty sure fire way of causing the O rings to start leaking so the way I always do it is the remove the hose clip and then use a Stanley knife to slit the old hose lengthwise. That way it just pulls off without having to give it any grunt. The hose is scrap but as you are replacing it anyway it doesn't matter. While you are at it, I'd suggest altering the plumbing for the LPG reducer so it is in series with the heater. Instead of the Tees, I run the hose from the manifold to a 19-15mm reducer and then run that to the reducer. The return from the reducer then goes through another reducer and connects to the heater feed. Where you have the Tee in the return, just use a 19-19mm connector (or a new hose). That way you get full flow through both the reducer and the heater rather than giving the coolant a choice of taking the path of least resistance resulting in insufficient flow through one or the other. It'll warm the reducer quicker too so it will switch over sooner.
If the screen has been replaced before, there's a couple of metal tags at the bottom that should have rubber bits on them so the screen rests on the rubber and not the metal. These had been missed on on my SE so vibration chaffed on the edge of the screen and caused it to crack. The crack can be seen here, directly above the wiper arm hinge
Actually, that tyre looked much the same at the summer camp. Have a look here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1254-radius-arm-bushes-and-possible-meet?page=6 and if you look at the pictures I took, right click on them, select View Image and then click on the image to zoom in. So your dodgy radius arm bushes could have been the cause. If it was, swapping the wheels around should make it track true now they've been changed.
and get the tracking checked. It's actually set for very slight toe out (0 degrees 5 minutes to 0 degrees 15 minutes) so if someone has set it to parallel then it is toeing in slightly.