Which DAB aerial are you using? If it's one of the stick on glass ones, you need to tell the Kenwood to supply power to it. I use one of these https://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/autoleads-magnetic-dab-antenna on the back of the roof (just in front of the top of the tailgate) but I was fortunate that plod supplied me with a hole with a grommet in it already to feed the cable in above the headlining.
Off on a slight tangent but a mate of mine has spent the last 3 years completely restoring one of the very last Long Wheelbase Classics. Prior to that it had been standing for 12 years but just before being parked up, it was converted to coil springs. He's now got hold of a set of air springs so he's decided to restore it back to original. I suggested he checked to see how much of the bits were still there and order up a rebuild kit for the compressor and valve block. On the Classic the valve block and compressor live in a box bolted to the offside chassis rail so he crawled underneath it today. Everything appears to still be there and it looks like all that has been removed is the air springs and a fuse or relay or both have been pulled to stop it from powering up. After phoning me to ask how to disconnect the pipes he set about getting the valve block out and on the bench. Upon disconnecting the pipe to the reservoir, he was gobsmacked to find it still had pressure in it. After 15 years!!!!
Island do a kit of a complete set of HEVAC bulbs (https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/bulb-heater-control-unit-jfc102550b-p-4953.html) and the one behind the centre of the display is different to the others. I've found that with some of the bulbs, you need to give the contacts a bit of a tweak so they make good contact with the circuit board.
I thought it looked easy enough but then realised that you never get the full impact of slopes on a video. This one, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHRvD7H0AcQ of the track up to my mates place in France looks quite simple, just a bit narrow with a couple of tight turns. But it rises almost 2,000 feet from bottom to top (and I had a 3 tonne cargo trailer on the back when that video was shot) so is far steeper than it looks.
When's the next one David, can we all come along and have a go?
Much like the Suzuki Hayabusa motorcycle. Kawasaki bought out the Ninja ZX-11 which, at the time, was the fastest production motorcycle so Honda produced the CBR1100XX Super Blackbird which was faster still. So along comes Suzuki and produces the GSX1300R which was even quicker still and named it the Hayabusa, Japanese for peregrine falcon, a bird that eats Blackbirds......
Should be OK as long as you take it steady on the loud pedal, it'll be rapid changes in load that will cause it to wear quicker. I once drove my LSE to London and back in that state, got so bad that on the way home I stopped and blasted more grease into the front UJs to stop the noise. What didn't help was I later discovered that it had a broken rear half shaft so the drive to the back wasn't doing anything at all and I had a front wheel drive 2.5 tonne, V8 powered car, all the drive was going through the front prop with a broken UJ. Driving it around like that, and I had no idea how long the rear halfshaft had been broken for (since before I got the car at the very least), it completely buggered the viscous coupling.
I think you've probably found the fault......
Good point, yes they are permanently heated and I wouldn't mind betting they are configured to only power up the heating element once the engine is running. Sounds like a short inside the mirror so it shorts out when either the heating element is powered up or the mirror tries to move.
Propshaft UJ. You won't be able to feel any slop with the propshaft still bolted at each end, you need to disconnect one end to be able to check properly. If you give the grease nipples a squirt from your greasegun (assuming you have a greasegun), you will almost certainly see it ooze out from one of the bearings and the cheep, cheep, cheep noise will either go away briefly or change as the floppy ends will at least be lubed rather than dry.
That makes perfect sense although it doesn't explain why the fuse blows when the engine is started????
StrangeRover wrote:
Oh and ford is usually
Fixed
Or
Repaired
Dailylol
Or Found On Road, Dead and Fiat used to be Fix It Again Tony
My daughter sent me this list earlier today
Fiat - Failed Italian Automotive Technology
Ford - For Only Rough Drivers
Hyundai - Hope You Understand Nothing's Driveable And Inexpensive
Volvo - Very Old Looking Vehicular Object
Porsche - Proof Of Rich Spoiled Children Having Everything
Opel - Old People Enjoying Life
Toyota - The One You Only Trust Always
Honda - Happy Owner Now Driving Away
BMW - Big Money Waste
Audi - An Unwanted Debt Invitation
Mercedes - Maximum Enthusiasm, Recurring Costs, Ego Developing Expensive Style
Which started me thinking while sitting in yet another traffic jam (7 hour working day with only 2.5 hours actual work and 4.5 hours travelling....)
I came up with Really Awfully Nice, Great Engineering, Rides Over Virtually Everything Reliably
Anyone got anything better?
According to the diagram in RAVE, fuse 9 only feeds the front door outstations and the door amps are fed from that. The supply splits inside the BeCM and then goes to the RH door from pin 2 of C1586 while the LH door is fed from pin 8 of C1291. The supplies go via connectors by the door jamb, a 6 way white connector. For the fuse to blow when the engine is started would mean that one of these two supplies is shorting with something that is grounded when the engine is running but I can't find anything suitable in close proximity.
I got my most recent set from Mercia Air Ltd, trading as Original LandyAir, and that seemed to work fine, although that was for a compressor rebuild. The valve block O ring set they supply seem to be the orange ones which some have had problems with. X8R (ebay user x8rltd) do the black ones.
Been offered something that is about as common as a Unicorn, a 1997, 4.0 litre, MANUAL, P38. It is still on EAS, runs well (so I'm told), has an LPG system on it that doesn't work, has an SRS warning light on and the book showing on the HEVAC, but it does have an MoT until August. I'm going to have a look at it at the weekend and will plug the Nano in to see why it has the SRS light and book showing (I'll also have a look at the LPG system too) but the owner doesn't want a lot for it. He bought it on a whim and then found that it was costing him £70 a week in petrol when he'd been used to a 1.0 litre Focus eco thingy using £50 worth a month! I tried to encourage him to get it to Simon to sort the LPG side of things out but he reckons that even £40 a week in fuel is too much so wants to get rid. He paid a grand for it but will take £700 if anyone is interested once I've had a look and we've got a few more details on it.
When I did the Land Rover course at Soihull we took a Discovery along what they called the jungle track. Water up to the top of the headlights and you drove along it slowly keeping the bow wave travelling along in front and at the same speed as you. Half way along the dash started filling up with warning lights telling me that the alternator had died, all the doors were open and a couple of other spurious ones I wasn't sure of. As I drove out of the end of the track, I realised I had no power steering either but within 100 yards, all the warning lights had gone out and everything was back to as it should be. I was told that this was quite normal......
After being sat in by a copper every day for 8 years and the best part of 200k miles, the outside edge of my drivers seat was looking pretty rough. I bought a passenger seat, stripped it down and replaced my drivers seat base with the virtually unused one from the passenger seat. The plastic strip takes some levering off but once you've got it started, it comes off easily enough. The seat needs to be out (obviously) and set at fully reclined so it is flat.
Yup, same on all versions and interchangeable left to right. There's a plastic strip where the base joins the backrest that you need to prise off and 4 Torx headed bolts.
That's all right, the water can get out as well as in......
According to the owners handbook, they should be torqued to 108 Nm which is 80 ft/lb. This is what causes problems a lot of the time (particularly with things like the head studs) where people overtighten as they use the Nm figure as a ft/lb figure.