When I opted in to the FON service I was told clearly that by doing so I consented to my own hub being made available to others. FON access is limited to 1Mbs so if you've got a fibre connection running at 50 Mbs, then it is using 2% of your bandwidth. Big deal, especially when you consider that if you are connecting over 2.4 GHz wi-fi then you are only going to be using half of your available bandwidth anyway as 802.11g protocol runs out of steam at around 24 Mbs.
BT aren't revealing the locations of their customers either. If you live in the middle of nowhere and are the only house then it's pretty likely that the FON hotspot you can see is from your house but not necessarily. If you live on a modern housing estate, or even better, in a block of flats, how would anyone know where the hotspot is located from the multiple address? The other way of not revealing your address is to change the SSID on your hub to something other than the default BTHub6-xxxx then it wouldn't be possible to link the FON hotspot to any particular hub.
Oddly, I have the exact same problem on LPGForum and have to mark each forum as read otherwise it shows unread posts. That's Firefox V64, (64 bit) running under Windows 7.
I've done it a number of times on my car and others. The modern boots seem to be some sort of vinyl rather than rubber and don't seem to last that long at all. Can't help with a part number I'm afraid as my local motor factors sells them in numerous different sizes and I just got the ones that are the correct size. You'll need a ball joint splitter like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/NEILSEN-TOOLS-CT1578-JOINT-SEPARATOR/dp/B0044ZRTWE as the fork type will damage the actual ball joint.
Change the bags. For 100 notes it isn't worth risking burning out the pump.
Aragorn wrote:
But its left me wondering, shouldnt the interior lighting time out after 10minutes or so, so as not to drain the battery if a doors left open?!
Yes it should. Unless yours, being a very early one doesn't, and it was something they thought about afterwards.
You need a bigger hammer......
Same here, this one https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/ctj3000g-3-tonne-professional-garage-j/ and a pair of these https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cax-3tbc-3-ton-axle-stands/
If you are looking at LRDirect,I'd go for the Hardy Spicer or OEM ones. They may be a bit more but from known manufacturers. If you don't have a vice, use a big hammer......
Air may have been coming out of the vents but you should have switched it on and had a look down the holes when the pollen filters were out. That way you can see them and if one isn't spinning.....
Standard OBD reader will talk to a P38 without problem. As the pre-99 wasn't 100% OBD compliant some things aren't there (such as showing which cylinder if you have a misfire) but faults can be read and cleared and if the reader can do live data you can see what is happening with it running.
Clarion can do a full refurb on your original stereo and add a line in cable for £95. However, the last one I sent to them (in the Ascot) had a completely dead display and they phoned me to say that the displays were no longer available and all they could fit was a Grade B one. It may be Grade B and not perfect but it works fine. I suspect there is a problem with the CD player so it is checking for a disc, can't find one, so going back to radio. If you had a working display it would tell you what the problem was. It might just need a CD head cleaner putting through it.
I've got the predecessor to this https://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/rec/dab/KDC-BT730DAB/ in mine. Does everything I need it to do and more. If you've got the amps in the doors you'll need to make some attenuators to drop the level from the head unit. As it is narrower than the original space in the facia you need to add these either side of it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-1994-2002-Car-Stereo-Radio-Single-Din-Facia-Trim/263073021476. I got stick on wood to put on mine to make them look the part.
When I bought the SE, the seller told me it had been fitted with a new water pump just before he sold it, it was leaking within 2,000 miles whereas I've had over 60,000 miles out of an Airtex so far and still fine.
alanl wrote:
Aston V8 Vantage. Bought new two and a half years ago. It's my baby :)
Ooh I'm jealous, that is my dream car. Purely for the noise it makes. A couple of Christmas's ago my daughter asked me what I wanted as a present so I told her. So I've got the model one she bought me......
LED headlight bulbs work fine if you get decent ones but the cheapo Chinese ones from eBay just spread light around everywhere and simply cannot be adjusted to get a decent cut off.
Pollen filters are a good call as they've usually been left for years and are clogged solid with dead leaves. Are both blowers working?
Transmission fluid is nice and easy with the GEMS with the dipstick, a real pain on later ones to the point of not even considering it in this weather.
Fuel consumption sounds about right if you are going by the trip computer, although 12mpg does seem a bit low. Might be worth checking to see what the real world figure is and also plugging a code reader in. If you have a duff lambda sensor, it won't bring on the check engine light but will put it into an open loop, rich fuelling strategy.
High idle can be caused by a number of things. A sticky idle air valve (cylindrical one on the front of the throttle body as you look at it) pull that out and give it a good clean with carb cleaner, the stored voltage from the throttle position sensor being too high (that would need the adaptive values resetting but if it was that it would always be high and not just sometimes) or a sticky throttle butterfly that doesn't always close properly.
I've done blend motors and heater core O rings and have never taken a dash out. Side panels to the centre console, glovebox and instrument panel need to come out and you may need to cut the duct that feeds the rear air vents, but that is all. Blend motors here https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html and O rings here https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/heateroring.html although if I remember right, you can get at the temperature sensor with the duct in place.
There is a BMW header tank that is identical to ours but has a level sensor in it. I have a feeling it was from a 5 series of similar vintage but it seems that there are numerous different ones depending on the engine so gave up. If you've got nothing better to do, http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/
That'll be me then. I'm Richard_G on there and Gilbertd everywhere else but they banned me for having the audacity to correct the admin's duff information.
Headlining you now know about, sunroof might put up a fight. I found the sunroof on the Ascot didn't work because someone had removed the motor. Put a motor in it and it still didn't work due to broken bits of plastic in the linkages. I bought a set of plastics from eBay and, after spending two days filing and fettling to get everything moving smoothly, they broke the second time I opened the roof. So I just bought a complete unit from a breaker, gave everything a bit of lube and whacked that in.
Heater not blowing much is usually down to one of two things. There's two blowers, one at each end of the dash, and if one stops working then the air gets sucked in on one side but instead of going through the heater matrix, it just blows straight across the car and out the other side. Simple enough to see if they are both working if you take the pollen filters out and look down the hole. It might just be that the pollen filters are clogged solid anyway. The other cause is the plastic trunking is made in pieces which slot together with foam to seal the joints. The foam degrades and falls out so half the air being sucked in blows out the joints before it even gets to the heater. Passengers will complain of a cold draught on their feet too as the air comes out under the glovebox. Simple fix is duct tape over the joints in the ducts (probably the only time duct tape is ever used for what it was designed to be used for).
My journeys are either around town or long distances towing a variety of trailers so I didn't really notice at first, but mine seems to be using less LPG now I have a complete new system with cats (admittedly much smaller than the originals) that with the gutted ones that were on it before. I also had the odd zingy noise but as it was only noticeable from outside (and I'm not usually outside), I ignored it. Now I just have a very pleasant hum.....
Most likely you have a small leak somewhere. A common place is where the hoses join the steel connecting pipes. The steel pipes start to rust so you get a leak at the join when it gets hot. As it is hot the coolant evaporates so there's nothing dripping out but the level will still drop slightly. Other common culprit is the water pump, again, the coolant evaporates so nothing drips but if you look at it very closely, you'll see the trails where the coolant has leaked.
Mine was plumbed in parallel when I first got it and noticed the heater dropped down to vaguely lukewarm while siting at idle waiting to get into a car park to do my Christmas shopping, but fine once the revs were up due to lack of flow at idle. The Classic I had before was also in parallel and that would ice up the vaporiser within a couple of hundred yards due to lack of flow through the vaporiser. Swapping both to series cured both problems and allowed the pipework to be a lot neater. As Simon says though it is going to depend on the car and how clogged up things are. Might be worth reverse flushing the heater and vaporiser and seeing how much water flows and how close to oxtail soup it looks.
As well as needing the unlock codes for other models for some you need a different cable too. Tried using mine of a Disco 3 and it didn't want to know. Checked with BBS and found that it will connect but only with the correct cable. Hardly anything can talk to the 2002-2010 L322.