On mine, being ex-plod, the Special Vehicles plate is on the removable slam panel so if it has ever had that changed it may have lost it. Black, or very dark grey to be precise, carpets and plastic seat bases would be right for the cloth seats fitted to most plod motors so it sounds like someone has swapped the seats at some point. Mine has a highline BeCM as it needs that for the front fogs and headlamp wash wipe although it didn't have cruise or trip computer (that was sorted by fitting a stalk with buttons and telling the BeCM it was fitted). Calibrated speedos were done by Instrument Repair Services of Nottingham and have a sticker with IRS Nottm and a serial number.

Calibrating the speedo is actually very simple, there's two pots on the top of the instrument cluster circuit board that deal with it. The mosfet driver that turns on some of the warning lights on mine started to die. Having no seatbelt warning light I could live with but when it spread to the alternator and oil pressure lights I figured I needed to do something. I got a spare cluster from a breaker and swapped the circuit boards over. The speedo then started to read like the ones in the SE and Ascot, an indicated 70 mph was really only 65 in real life. Called IRS and they sent me some very limited info but enough to allow me to tweak the pots to get mine spot on again.

Rimmers are excellent for service and next day delivery but a bit pricey. Island 4x4 and LRDirect tell you who supplies the parts rather than just Aftermarket as Rimmers do.

Anything that doesn't have a Britpart label on it.......

I've changed them in mine, the Ascot and the SE and never taken the centre console out. Take the sides off and you can get to them, fiddly but doable. Drivers ones are dead easy if you take the instrument binnacle out, they sit there looking up at you. Usual problem is either the motor goes sticky so takes too long to reach the end of the travel when it calibrates or the feedback pot wears a hole in the track so it reaches a certain point in the travel and stops as there is no feedback. Both can be fixed with a squirt of contact cleaner and, if it is the motor, blasting it with 12V. There's enough slack on the cables to allow you to pull them out and take them apart outside the centre console.

Robbo1 wrote:

Don't suppose we can sort the site so we can upload pictures directly into the posts.

I think that is something Gordon was looking into when photobucket started blocking images hosted there. Not sure how far he got though.

This is all we can see (Firefox under Windows 7)

There's a couple of downsides to swapping the timer relay. Diagnostics won't connect without it which isn't too important as long as you know and remember to swap it back in. The other problem is one of the reasons it is there in the first place. Say you've got the boot loaded up with stuff, you park up and unload so the car rises on the suspension as the weight is removed. With the timer in place as soon as you close the boot and all the doors, it then lowers itself down to normal height. With the relay swapped, there's no power to the ECU once the ignition is off so it doesn't drop and you end up with a car standing on stilts.

Not now.....

+1 on Boge. I've got a spare pair of Boge fronts if you can make use of them. They are used but still good. My car is on 16" wheels and the SE and Ascot are both on 18"s. There's a noticeable difference in ride. For the EAS, do you have a Nano or similar or a cable for the free EASUnlock software? Invaluable for faulting it.

I saw the thread title and expected it to be a subject for my morning spam deleting session but no, a genuine post. As a very successful businessman once said to me, I don't need to advertise, my competitors give me all the work I can handle. If we get a club area at Billing at the end of June, we may well recruit a few more members on here too. But as for RRTH, despite my lifetime ban and the statement that I wouldn't be able to register on there ever again as they had logged my IP address, I've registered on there with 2 more usernames. It was me that posted the info on the trimmer pots in the back of the instrument cluster in your temp gauge thread. I also contradicted him in Haggisbiker's thread about getting the radio code but didn't get the expected bollocking and post deletion, he just waffled on about some old dog he recently bought. Anyone else posting about anything other than a Range Rover would get their post deleted......

12.4V sounds a bit low for a decent battery. Slow cranking that speeds up is going to be either a dying starter solenoid or bad main power cables. Could be battery terminals, grounds, poor connection between the cable to the starter from the battery terminal any number of locations. But, unless it is cranking really slowly, it should still start.

The only ones I have ever seen are like this https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC8525BM, a semi-rigid plastic with 100mm sides, never seen one that goes right up and covers the sides too. That part number is the only one listed for a boot carpet protector although the H&H may have had something supplied by H&H so not a Land Rover part. Can't find the little tables that fit on the backs of the front seats in the parts listing either so they may well be unique.

Georges picture shows the fuel flap release on the LH side of the binnacle on a LHD car, so it is towards the outside of the car . On a RHD it is also on the LH side of the binnacle so nearer the centre of the car. The parts listing only shows two part numbers, one for up to VIN WA and one for VIN from XA so it appears they are the same on LHD and RHD.

Britpart condenser arrived yesterday so been out there and fitted it this evening. Looks surprisingly good but didn't come with O rings so it's a good job I ordered them too. All the bolt holes lined up although I did have to enlarge the holes at the bottom slightly for a locating peg to fit in. Cheated a bit as RAVE says to remove the front bumper but I suspect the bolts holding mine will shear long before they come out. A long 3/8 drive extension can be passed through the grille in the lower bumper to undo the bottom bolts and the fans can be unbolted once it's lifted part way out. Bottom pipe came out easily enough with a crows foot spanner but the top one was well chewed from where someone had been in there before and needed a pair of Stilsons to get that off. Hopefully, I've done them up tight enough (RAVE says do them up to 11 ft/lbs but I don't have an open ended torque wrench) but not too tight that I can still get them off when I need to return it under the 2 year warranty. Old one was leaking in at least 3 places from the green goop.

Now just got to get it pressure tested and regassed which probably won't be until Saturday morning (unless I can skive off from work early one day before then.....).

Mine when it was new

A couple of years ago

About 5 years ago (interesting experience towing over 4 tonnes with no brakes on the trailer for 950 miles.....)

and in January a box containing Rick Wakeman's Grand Piano (all 450 kgs of it!)

Mine may be my everyday car but it's been a working vehicle all it's life. I bought it in the first place as I needed something capable of towing 3 tonnes for long distances in comfort and at a decent cruising speed. Now I wouldn't consider owning anything else.......

Seems this one is the only one still available https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID009721

They are darker than the ones used on a car with the Lightstone interior, this colour was used with the tan (dog poo) interior colour. Interior colours were Dark Granite, Ash Grey, Lightstone Beige and Tan, Tan is the correct one for George and was replaced with Walnut on later, post 99, cars.

It's the same with most breakers, interior trim takes up a lot of storage space and there isn't much call for it. East Coast are another breaker/restorer (depending on the condition of the car that comes in) and they strap all the seats and plastic trim to a pallet and sell it as one lot. I went there and got a complete replacement interior for mine when all I wanted was the passenger seat base to replace my very worn drivers seat base. I ended up bringing back all the plastics that you need too just in case I ever needed them (and still have them) but they are in dark grey.

From the RSW website (producers of the free EASUnlock software)

Pressure Signal Constantly High
Investigate the Main Pressure Switch. Check the functionality. If Pressure switch is normal, then problem is most likely sourced with the EAS Driver Pack.

Pressure signal constantly Low
Investigate the Main Pressure Switch. Check the functionality. If Pressure switch is normal, then problem is most likely sourced with the EAS Driver Pack.

Sounds like iffy connections between the driver pack and valve block in the big multi-way connector (that you can only get to with the valve block out).

Jack the front of the car on the axle so the wheel is clear of the deck, then put a long bar under the wheel and try to lift the wheel. If there is any up and down movement, the ball joints are shot. Ideally it's a two man job, one person on the bar and another underneath looking for the movement.