Doing just what the Classic was doing. In fact, his wrecked the front diff so he got a new one from Ashcrofts who told him that front's rarely go as badly as his had and suggested his viscous was seized. He reckons it's a different car now.

Errm, well as the front propshaft bolts up to the flange, you've have a bit of difficulty changing it if you don't. Simple enough, changed one on my mates Classic a few weeks ago. Took the two of us about two hours and half of that was spent trying to work out how to get a gearbox mount back on (as it bolts to the side of the VC housing on a Classic). Came out easily enough with gravity and a crowbar, didn't want to go back in though. His was skipping at full lock, is yours doing the same or do you just feel that it's not right?.

Redraptor141 wrote:

Gilbertd you got any advice on how to get all the trim off the sides? Are they just metal clips? And more importantly, if/when I break some can they be replaced?

Depending on which trims, there's a visible plastic nut or self tapper at one end. Take that off/out and the prise the trims out with your plastic trim removal tool. They are held in with plastic pegs in sockets and all of mine came out without breaking. See Rave, Section 76, Chassis and Body, Repair, Rubbing Strips and Door Finishers.

On Imgur, you select the Direct Link option, Click on the Copy button which highlights the link, then you use the Copy feature on your iPad (or right click and select Copy on a proper computer) and copy the highlighted link. Simply hitting the Copy button doesn't, as the name suggests, actually copy the link, it just highlights it. Then in the forum you click the Add Image icon and use the Paste function (either on the iPad or right click and paste) to put that link into the box. Click OK and the picture should appear in your post.

It can't be cleaned, it's an alloy tube with the filter element inside and a screw union on each end.

I know of one tester that thought the lack of a mention of LPG on Chart 2 meant that if the car was later than 1992 and running on LPG it didn't need an emissions test at all. I had it explained, and so did he, by one of the local senior testers (gets asked to oversee newly qualified ones) and as he said, you never start something in the middle, you always start at the beginning.

Both, you've got steel unions and an alloy filter and they can be a real pain to undo. However, worst case is to make sure you have a length of 8mm ID fuel hose and a couple of decent quality hose clips to hand. Then if you do break something you can just chop the pipes and link them with hose.

Tilly is visible by clicking the link. I'm wondering if there is a way of embedding the video clip into a post, I'll have to try playing a bit. You track looks similar, but much smoother, than the one up to my mates place in France, I'll use that to try embedding video from Youtube.

Your interior doesn't look too bad. The headlining is drooping but they all do after a while and the pillar trims are getting a bit manky. Easiest option for that is to clean the stuck on flocking off with either white spirit or hot soapy water. Leaves a clean shiny surface.

Seems Chris needs a bit of instruction. If using Imgur you need to use the Direct Link (second one down) and if using an iPad you can copy and paste like this http://iosguides.net/how-to-copy-cut-and-paste-on-ipad/.

Tried to edit your post so the picture shows but it didn't work so I'm not sure which link you have used.

I can see the ones in the first post fine but figured that as so many people seem to have trouble posting pics it would be worth a reminder on how to do it. I think there's been enough of mine on here anyway but here's another......

As the previous thread talks about Photobucket who now insist on money, I now use Imgur. If using that you select the picture and click on the Copy button next to Direct Link and paste that into the little box.

It would seem this thread would be a good place to resurrect this one https://rangerovers.pub/topic/193-archives-and-posting-pictures-documents

Martyuk wrote:

EDIT Or am I interpreting the flowchart wrong? Should it go from the BET section in chart 1, and then onto chart 2 (as it's starred with the note)?

Yes you are and so are they. You start at the beginning with Chart 1, then continue with Chart 2. Chart 1 ends with doing the BET test and if the vehicle is later than 1992 you then go onto Chart 2. First entry on Chart 2 is BET passed, test complete, you only continue if it failed the BET.

dhallworth wrote:

Gilbert, any idea where you ordered your Britpart one from? If it definitely fits, as much as ordering something in a blue box goes against the grain I'll give it a go.

LRDirect, the top one here https://www.lrdirect.com/STC3679-Condenser-Air-Conditioning-New-Rr/?keep_https=yes

The only thing I had to do was drill out the lower mounting holes, they were too small for the bolts to go through.

Just checked Microcat and there are two part numbers for the fan assembly, STC3680 and YRP100050 but it doesn't give a date or VIN range although a quick Google suggest that the condenser and fans changed on the later diesel but the petrol models all used the same one.

The car that used to belong to OldShep that was bought by one of my neighbours had what he'd been told was a whistling alternator bearing. I took the belt off and it spun freely with no sign of any noise or roughness. Put the belt back on and used a long screwdriver as a stethoscope and found it was one of the idler pulley bearings. It had got to the stage that you could hear the noise from that over the engine noise but spinning it with the belt off and it felt fine.

Yes you can, see the testers manual here https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/class3457/, section 8.2, Chart 1. They've done the CAT test when it should have been done to the BET standard. The emissions regs have changed but only for diesel, nothing has changed for petrol/LPG engines. It should be tested on the fuel it is running on when presented for test so as long as you are running on gas when you take it in, that is what they test it on.

I fitted a new condenser recently and all my bolt holes lined up perfectly. Odd as I bought a Britpart one....... I only got it as it was a bit cheaper than an OEM but from stock and came with a 2 year warranty. I figured that it isn't that difficult to change every 18 months or so to swap it for another new one.

It didn't come with O rings though but I ordered a selection at the same time as I couldn't find anywhere that told me what size I needed. Microcat just lists part numbers for different sized rings but not what size is needed where.

I took all the trim off mine when it went in to be sprayed so there was as little masking needing to be done as possible. Obviously some bits had to be taken off once I'd got it there as driving without mirrors and lights seems to be frowned upon. Everything comes off easily enough with trim removal tools.

The only masking they had to do was the strips on the roof.

While the body was being done, I sprayed all the trims and the grille with black bumper paint so they had a nice satin finish. Later I masked and sprayed the bumpers with the same stuff. That was over 2 years ago and it still looks good.

super4 wrote:

but do you realise that the rest of us are going to have to keep the P38's on the road now and make them Classics otherwise all your knowledge will be wasted !!

I got asked how old my car was last week when going through security at Dover port. "20 years" was my reply, "and how long do you intend keeping it?", "at least another 20 years", so mine at the very least will be a classic. The knowledge I've picked up over the years will help me, even if I've got the only P38 left by then......

Check the inertia switch first. Power to the pump goes from the relay to the switch and then onto the pump. If you are dropping the tank, get yourself some 8mm ID fuel hose first, the steel fuel pipes often rust above the tank so you might as well replace them while it's dropped. I had to do those on the SE as the return had rusted through so it was pissing petrol out as soon as the engine was started. As said, dropping the tank isn't that difficult as long as you have a spare jack to lower it down, I didn't even need to disconnect the filler hose.

i recently replaced the front discs and pads on mine and for the first few miles the brakes felt worse that they had before I'd changed them but they soon bedded in. If you have air in the power circuit you don't get a spongy pedal like on a conventional system, you get a slight delay between hitting the pedal and the brakes coming on (as it has to compress the air bubble before anything happens). When I first got mine the brakes felt OK. They worked and stopped the car but, like you, I had nothing to compare them against. Then I flushed the system and bled it all through and the difference was very noticeable, much more bite and no delay. I had a bus change lanes in front of me a few months back, hit the pedal and fooled the ABS by locking all 4 wheels at 70 mph. If I hadn't been wearing a seatbelt I would have put myself through the windscreen!