The smaller of the two plugs gives the ground so you'll get no door open signal (and hence no interior lights when you open that door) and you may also find that the central locking only works one way. With no ground on one side of the CDL switch you'll find that it will lock on the central locking but won't unlock as the lack of ground from the switch makes things think it is already unlocked. It's that same CDL switch that has failed which is causing the dancing locks.
A reconditioned latch (with new switches) from Marty is only £70 exchange so not too expensive http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=60
The broken bits are from where someone has smashed the old latch as it had jammed in the superlocked position so aren't from the one that is in there. I suspect they smashed the old one and fitted a secondhand replacement with iffy switches.
Morat seems to have summed it up nicely. What you have to remember is that the computer doesn't measure petrol flow, in fact it doesn't measure anything. All it does is calculate it from what it can see. It knows what the fuel pressure is and is being told how long the injectors are being opened for so from those two readings, it can calculate how much fuel you are using and therefore your fuel consumption. If the reading when running on petrol and LPG are identical, then the LPG system is set up absolutely spot on and the petrol ECU isn't having to alter the fuel trims to get things correct. Run it around for a while to let things settle, then check it again. If it gives a wildly different reading when on gas to when on petrol then it will need the calibration tweaking but if it is roughly the same, then there's no need.
Heard of it lots of times. Vaporisers can leak just like anything else when it starts to get a bit long in the tooth. If it's a Bigas, Tinley Tech will also sell you an overhaul kit with new diaphragms and gaskets. Or, as you say, they aren't that expensive so just bung a new one on.
But coolant in number 6? There's no coolant passages near the middle cylinders, only at each end of the heads so next to numbers 2 and 8. Unless it's getting in around the liner......
Slipped liners are a lit less common than some people would have you believe, a temp gauge that goes up and down is more likely as a result of low coolant level. Usually cause by air locks so make sure you fill the system full and get rid of any air. A P38 is no less reliable than any other 20 year old upmarket car, Christ mine came up at 354,000 miles a couple of nights ago and other than having to replace the air con condenser recently, the last time I did anything to it was 9,000 miles ago when I gave it a set of plugs and new oil and filter.
Scary when you've got no pressure isn't it. A few years ago my ABS pump burnt itself out just outside Lyon. Stopping on the hydrostatic circuit only involved both feet on the brake pedal, especially when you've got a 3 tonne trailer on the back and the brakes couldn't stop it quick enough to cause the over run brake to kick in.
That sounds about right, CO when running on LPG is usually very low even though the limit is 3.5%. Mine came out at 0.3% and that is with gutted cats. Borderline to pass the CAT test for petrol but I could probably get it down low enough if I wanted with a tweak of the LPG system settings.
As it's a powered system, bleeding process is completely different to a conventional jam jar, pipe and up down on the pedal method. You must follow the process correctly or you'll have no brakes at all.
Easy check for the accumulator is to turn the ignition on and wait until the ABS pump stops. Then press the brake pedal. If you get 2 or 3 presses before the pump cuts in again, it's fine. However, if you have air in the power brake circuit (one circuit on the fronts and the only circuit to the rear) you don't get a spongy pedal like you do on a conventional system, you get a delay between pressing the pedal and the brakes coming on (as the fluid has to compress the air before moving the caliper piston)s. That also means that more fluid needs to move so the pump will cut in sooner so giving the brakes a full bleed as per the book to make sure there is no air in there would be the first thing to do.
I can now report that a Britpart condenser doesn't leak when new. System was leak tested and re-gassed last week and it's still working. How long for is anyone's guess but you never know, there's no moving parts, so it might be OK.
I have always left the wheels on too and jacked up under the towbar. My 3 tonne trolley jack will go high enough to just get both rear wheels off the ground although having them dangling actually makes the job harder. Use the Nano to let the pressure out and they'll go floppy. You'll find getting the top clips out will be a real pain but as the air springs are shot anyway, there is the destructive method. Bend the top clip until it breaks off (which won't take a lot of doing as they will be rusted to hell anyway). Slide a 1" wood chisel between the chassis and body so it sits on the top of the airspring mount on the chassis and give it a good clout. That will chop the top off the airspring making getting it out much simpler and will allow you to drop the chopped off top through the mounting hole so you can disconnect the pipe from underneath.
Good point, no idea if it is a battery backed sounder or not but I know it works (managed to set it off twice while mucking around at the weekend). That's another thing to disconnect while the meter is measuring the current draw.
OEM should be OK as they are, or at least should be or they aren't OEM, made by the Original Equipment Manufacturer who supplied LR in the first place. It is those that are listed as aftermarket that you need to avoid. In fact, Bosch would be your best bet https://www.lrdirect.com/MHK100940-Sensor-Lambda/
No, standard 7 pin trailer socket, so no voltage sensing stuff anywhere. LPG system has been removed too as it's going to be sold on eBay as a spares or repair job and the LPG system is probably worth as much as the whole car will fetch. It's actually pretty good, has quite a few new bits on it but has a cracked windscreen and my trade policy doesn't cover windscreens and I don't fancy spending £525 for a new heated windscreen. We will be moving house in a couple of months too so shifting 2 P38's, Dina's Merc, my Maserati and company van as well as the contents of the house means at least the SE (and possibly the Masser) has to go.
In case anyone was wondering, I lent the Ascot to my boss before Christmas as his 55 plate Disco had died and he had no wheels. His Disco is still dead and he's running around in the Ascot although he has asked how much I want for it. Selling a 21 year old P38 to my boss could be either a good move or a severe career limiting move (but as I retire in a couple of years my career is unlikely to progress anyway).
Disconnecting the stereo and pulling fuses was going to be the next step. Stereo is an aftermarket Sony which used to have a Parrot bluetooth unit attached to it. That was wired the wrong way round so was permanently powered but I'd assumed since I took that out it should have been OK. Parrot unit had in and out DIN plugs and was just plumbed in between the car and the stereo but had the permanent and ignition switched feeds reversed.
Does it have a tow hitch? Of course it does, what's the point of a P38 without one? Although that is wired correctly or at least as correctly as needed for the trailer lights to work.
Been playing with the SE as the weather was nice, I've run out of things to do on mine and having got the engine running nicely without peeing fuel out of the injector seals and the passenger central locking working again, I decided to check the current drain. The battery on it is completely FUBAR'ed and doesn't want to take or hold a charge so I just hang jump leads on it and use my spare battery to power it. The battery was a decent one when I put it on so aren't sure why it has now died but hung my meter on it to check the current drain. Closed everything and locked the car, current drawn was 900mA, after 30 seconds it dropped to 600mA and after 2 minutes when the BeCM went to sleep, it dropped to 100mA and stayed there. Left it for over half an hour and it was still drawing 100mA. So what is dissipating 1.2W permanently? Further investigation required but it seems to be too low for anything meaningful but high enough to drain the battery when left for a long time. Draining the battery to completely flat and leaving it like that is probably what killed it in the first place too.
And yes, I did disconnect the battery on it and was checking from my external battery only. Didn't to start with then realised I was measuring the current my decent battery was trying to put into the duff one as well as what the car was drawing.
That's the problem with buying a P38, or any car of this sort of age I expect. Faults will have cropped up in the past but you've no way of knowing if they were ignored, bodged or repaired properly (the latter being the least common option in my experience).
All bar one of the ones we did at Summer Camp were Oatmeal which is a perfect match for the Lightstone interior but Marty put the black suede in his. If you ask nicely, he might even post a picture of it.
If the pipes have got joints in them, especially the blue ended ones, then replacing them is a very good idea but also what you need to remember is that the car is now 19 years old. The air springs are made of exactly the same materials as tyres and you wouldn't want to run around on 19 year old tyres. If they look original they may well be and even if they aren't, they are likely to be ready for replacement. At £200 for a set of four from Island 4x4, it's probably the best 200 quid you'll ever spend. If it is dropping, even slightly, overnight, take the timer relay out from under the passenger seat when you park it. If it has dropped in the morning, chances are the springs are leaking.
We were at for for most of 2 days. A couple of guys taking the headlining shells out, my other half cleaning the remains of headliner, foam and glue off them, a couple more sticking the new material on and Morat trimming the excess off the edges before passing them back to the removal/refitting crew.
I doubt magnets will work to hold it up as there's probably at least an inch gap between the headlining shell and the actual roof. When my mate in France bought his P38 his wife thought it had ants crawling over the inside of the roof until she realised that it was hundreds of rusty staples holding the material up. The headlining shell is thin fibreglass with foam backed material glued to it. The foam starts to degrade with age so there is nothing between the glue and the material. Martrim (http://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/range-rover-headlining-kits.php) do a kit of the material and glue to do it yourself. For the Summer Camp we just bought 8 or 9 kits.