Sounds like you've got it. Centre the steering box then centre the steering wheel. Once they are centred you can adjust the drag link so the wheels are straight too. You'll probably find that the drag link takes some shifting, when I did mine it involved heat, Plug Gas and a pair of Stilsons with a 6 foot length of scaffold pole slipped over the end before it started to move. My steering wheel is out, or at least the upper steering column is out, as the indicators cancel at a different point depending on whether I'm indicating left or right. Doesn't seem to have done the rotary coupler any harm although mine only deals with the horn and airbag, none of these fancy buttons on the steering wheel for plod.

ECU model will be engraved on the casing with Tartarini on a sticker..AEB supply controllers to numerous manufacturers but with different firmware depending on who's label is on it.

You can check tinj petrol when running on petrol and compare it with tinj petrol when on gas, they should be the same. Then check tinj petrol with tinj gas, tinj gas should be between 1.2 and 1.5x tinj petrol.

If it stalls when turning off just one injector there is something seriously wrong. What you are doing is switching a cylinder from gas to petrol so you'll have 7 on gas and one on petrol if you switch them one at a time. So it shouldn't make any difference in reality unless there is something else wrong. What injectors are fitted and although you say you've cleaned the injector rails, have you done the injectors themselves?

A lot less than an hour. If it isn't finishing it has found something it isn't happy with so isn't going through the full cycle. Which Tartarini system? One of the ones using the AEB2568 controller with different firmware hopefully. Lambdas don't need to be connected, it just means that you can't see the lambda output without having to have a code reader showing live data plugged in at the same time. If you monitor the lambdas you should be able to see why it doesn't complete. What makes you think you need to recalibrate anyway? What have you changed?

Looking at the picture full size, yes, you can still see the marks. Not as pronounced as on mine but very similar. It almost looks like there's impurities in the metal.

Injectors are injectors and the amount of fuel they inject is controlled by the ECU so changing them won't make a jot of difference. Unless of course you are in the USA where everything made there is far superior to anything made elsewhere.

Tornado chips work, see http://www.tornadosystems.com/ but not cheap.

Porting and polishing will give a benefit on any engine although on it's own you'd be unlikely to notice any difference.

Cam changes will make a difference but again, you won't see much of an effect when hauling over 2 tonnes with the aerodynamics of a large shed around. Turners do a Kent cam that seems to work well. I know one car with it fitted and it does feel marginally quicker.

Well over 300 bhp is possible if your pockets are deep enough, see http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/long_engines/5.4_litre/dominator/index.shtml

Fuel economy depends almost entirely on your right foot.....

Last time I looked at a Thor alternator that had been diagnosed as having a noisy bearing it felt fine while spinning it with my fingers and the howling was actually coming from the idler pulley below it. I'm a little intrigued though. What were you doing under the car when you were changing an alternator that lives on the top?

Problem with any oil leak is that the fan blows back over the engine so where it ends up may be nowhere near where it is coming out. Only place I can think of is the sump gasket.

It often isn't as most real mechanics have long since retired to be replaced with 'technicians', another name for parts fitters. Read a fault code and start changing bits until the fault goes away without really understanding what is happening and why.

Disco 2 has the same discs, pads and, I assume, calipers as the P38. Brakes were fine, except for the shudder under braking from speed, and both calipers were free with pistons pushing back in nicely. Brakes do seem to have slightly more bite now than they did although that might just be me taking more note of how they feel.

I mentioned in the Are We Froze thread that I'd noticed my rear discs were looking a bit odd so had them off today and fitted a set of Delphi discs and pads.. Having checked my order history with LR Direct, the discs I took off were Allmakes brand ones bought in April 2017. So they've been on there for 16 months and have covered around 30,000 miles. What i don't know is what pads I fitted when I put them in but they haven't fared well. All pads were worn down evenly and by the same amount, none were sticking in the carrier and the pins were sliding nicely. Nothing appeared to be wrong with anything except for the appearance of the discs.

The offside one had marks looking like it had been sitting for weeks with the pads in one place, score marks and felt rough to the touch. Both inner and outer faces of the disc were the same.

While the nearside one appeared scored everywhere and felt rough to touch yet the inside face was clean and looking as you would expect a fairly new disc to look.

I'm thinking either the Allmakes discs aren't good quality or aren't compatible with the pads I've used. In saying that I would have thought if the pads are too hard, they would wear the discs but they would still stay smooth? Anyone else come across anything similar?

The adaptives are things like a MAF correction factor, a correction to the fuel mapping to account for worn injectors, a drifted fuel pressure regulator and so on. As Brian says, on a brand new engine with brand new sensors and everything working as it should, then there will no corrections needed so the factory settings in the engine ECU will be spot on. But, you don't have brand new components so things will have aged and that is where the adaptive values come into play

Drop it down to Access height, push the collets in with a blunt screwdriver and pull the pipes out. Make sure there are no cats, dogs, children, etc under the car first though as it will drop a corner at a time as you pull each of the 4 going to the air springs out. The one nearest the front of the car (with a purple sleeve on it) is the outlet from the tank to the valve block so that one will probably have quite a bit of air behind it. The two larger 8mm ones, are the in and out to the dryer so won't have a lot, if any, pressure there and the small 4mm one at the rear is just a vent so won't have any pressure in it at all. As well as the Land Rover approved pencil sharpener, you'll also need the land Rover approved crochet hook for pulling the old O rings out (although I couldn't find one anywhere and ended up using a piece of 1.5mm copper wire with a hook bent in the end).

This one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Valve-Block-o-ring-set-diaphragm-STC-1803/162092286791 this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P38a-EAS-COMPRESSOR-PUMP-SEAL-VALVE-BLOCK-SEALS-DIAPHRAGM-INLET-FILTER/222186758097 (includes compressor seal) or this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-VALVE-BLOCK-O-RING-DIAPHRAGM-REPAIR-FIX-KIT/321451232414

Don't get one with the orange O rings that some suppliers sell, the O rings are too thin so don't seal well.

The free version of EASUnlock was, and still is, excellent. I used that and a generic OBD reader for the first 5 odd years of P38 ownership. When the latest version came out although the screenshots showed a tab for HEVAC, it didn't actually do the HEVAC. I emailed Storey, asked why and was told it would be added to later updates. That put me off a little as he does have a reputation for getting so far with a project and then getting bored and not progressing things. Hence not bothering and finally getting the Nanocom.

Yes, doing a reset and then doing 5 miles on closed throttle will cause it to not calibrate, it needs to see varying loads and conditions. GEMS will also not calibrate if there is less than 1/4 tank of petrol in too, in case any odd mixture running is cause by a low fuel level. Your best bet is to get it down off the mountain, do the reset and then drive it. Willys just had a carb so nothing electronic to reset, other than tweak the points every so often.

As for the gearchange, it should drop down a cog when it starts to struggle but won't if the adaptives haven't sorted themselves out. Giving it a bit more throttle should cause it to kickdown anyway.

Yup, diaphragm leaking. You are not the first, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/931-ooo-my-diaphragm and you won't really know about it until you try to raise the car and it doesn't. You can buy the valve block overhaul kit with or without the diaphragm or just the diaphragm on it's own so make sure you get the right one. Probably worth doing a full overhaul on the valve block, simple enough if you take your time. Make sure you have the Land Rover approved pencil sharpener though as the pipes will have grooves where the O rings sat and will need a millimetre or so trimming off the ends to make sure they seal properly.

It sounds like you may have a leak from the tank. Although the air springs and valve block aren't leaking so it doesn't drop, it may be losing pressure in the tank. Easy way to check is to start it after it has been standing overnight, drop the suspension down to Access height and then send it back up to High. If it goes straight up, the tank has plenty of pressure in it but I suspect it will need to refill the tank before it goes back up. That suggests a leak at the tank itself, the dryer or the pressure switch on the bottom of the valve block.

Should really have cleaned the MAF first, do a reset, then drive it. It will need a variation of different driving conditions, slow acceleration, hard acceleration, constant speed cruising,etc for it to set the values as they should be. Then switch it to gas and see what it is like. The TPS has a big influence on auto gear changes but so does calculated load value which it gets from a combination of TPS, MAF and revs.

If you are losing pressure in the tank and you've had the valve block apart, most likely place is the pressure switch. You'll most likely have had it out and it hasn't got a good seal so is allowing the tank to drain while standing. You wouldn't ordinarily notice it if you have no other leaks anywhere as no pressure in the tank would only show up if you dropped it down and tried to get it to rise back up. If you did that after it's been running for a while it would be fine as the tank would have had chance to fill. PTFE plumbers tape on the pressure switch, and doing it up tighter than you think feels necessary, works well.

I was thinking the same but afraid I'm not going to have time to give you a hand with yours. My MoT is due at the end of the month and I knew the exhaust was getting a little tired so had a crawl around underneath last night to see if there was anything else. OS rear axle oil seal leaking, OS front drag link gaiter perished and split and some weird marking on the rear brake discs which probably explains the slight brake judder under braking from speed that I sometimes get. Not normal brake judder, more a sort of shudder through the whole car. I'll get some photos of them when I change them (probably this weekend) for the pair of Delphi ones I've just ordered from Island. The ones on there are Allmakes and have only been there for 16 months (and have a 1 year warranty so out of luck there).

Definitely sounds like something isn't right. With mine set to Auto, which it invariably always is, the fan speed varies as needed. I keep it set on 20 degrees and in this weather the fan speed starts off slowly but within a few seconds speeds up to max. It then varies as needed to try to keep the interior at 20 degrees. If the sun is shining on the sensor on top of the dash the fan speed stays high but if the sun goes in or I stop in the shade, the fan speed drops. Sounds like yours isn't doing as it should, or you've got no sun in Scotland......