The adaptives are things like a MAF correction factor, a correction to the fuel mapping to account for worn injectors, a drifted fuel pressure regulator and so on. As Brian says, on a brand new engine with brand new sensors and everything working as it should, then there will no corrections needed so the factory settings in the engine ECU will be spot on. But, you don't have brand new components so things will have aged and that is where the adaptive values come into play

Drop it down to Access height, push the collets in with a blunt screwdriver and pull the pipes out. Make sure there are no cats, dogs, children, etc under the car first though as it will drop a corner at a time as you pull each of the 4 going to the air springs out. The one nearest the front of the car (with a purple sleeve on it) is the outlet from the tank to the valve block so that one will probably have quite a bit of air behind it. The two larger 8mm ones, are the in and out to the dryer so won't have a lot, if any, pressure there and the small 4mm one at the rear is just a vent so won't have any pressure in it at all. As well as the Land Rover approved pencil sharpener, you'll also need the land Rover approved crochet hook for pulling the old O rings out (although I couldn't find one anywhere and ended up using a piece of 1.5mm copper wire with a hook bent in the end).

This one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Valve-Block-o-ring-set-diaphragm-STC-1803/162092286791 this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P38a-EAS-COMPRESSOR-PUMP-SEAL-VALVE-BLOCK-SEALS-DIAPHRAGM-INLET-FILTER/222186758097 (includes compressor seal) or this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-VALVE-BLOCK-O-RING-DIAPHRAGM-REPAIR-FIX-KIT/321451232414

Don't get one with the orange O rings that some suppliers sell, the O rings are too thin so don't seal well.

The free version of EASUnlock was, and still is, excellent. I used that and a generic OBD reader for the first 5 odd years of P38 ownership. When the latest version came out although the screenshots showed a tab for HEVAC, it didn't actually do the HEVAC. I emailed Storey, asked why and was told it would be added to later updates. That put me off a little as he does have a reputation for getting so far with a project and then getting bored and not progressing things. Hence not bothering and finally getting the Nanocom.

Yes, doing a reset and then doing 5 miles on closed throttle will cause it to not calibrate, it needs to see varying loads and conditions. GEMS will also not calibrate if there is less than 1/4 tank of petrol in too, in case any odd mixture running is cause by a low fuel level. Your best bet is to get it down off the mountain, do the reset and then drive it. Willys just had a carb so nothing electronic to reset, other than tweak the points every so often.

As for the gearchange, it should drop down a cog when it starts to struggle but won't if the adaptives haven't sorted themselves out. Giving it a bit more throttle should cause it to kickdown anyway.

Yup, diaphragm leaking. You are not the first, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/931-ooo-my-diaphragm and you won't really know about it until you try to raise the car and it doesn't. You can buy the valve block overhaul kit with or without the diaphragm or just the diaphragm on it's own so make sure you get the right one. Probably worth doing a full overhaul on the valve block, simple enough if you take your time. Make sure you have the Land Rover approved pencil sharpener though as the pipes will have grooves where the O rings sat and will need a millimetre or so trimming off the ends to make sure they seal properly.

It sounds like you may have a leak from the tank. Although the air springs and valve block aren't leaking so it doesn't drop, it may be losing pressure in the tank. Easy way to check is to start it after it has been standing overnight, drop the suspension down to Access height and then send it back up to High. If it goes straight up, the tank has plenty of pressure in it but I suspect it will need to refill the tank before it goes back up. That suggests a leak at the tank itself, the dryer or the pressure switch on the bottom of the valve block.

Should really have cleaned the MAF first, do a reset, then drive it. It will need a variation of different driving conditions, slow acceleration, hard acceleration, constant speed cruising,etc for it to set the values as they should be. Then switch it to gas and see what it is like. The TPS has a big influence on auto gear changes but so does calculated load value which it gets from a combination of TPS, MAF and revs.

If you are losing pressure in the tank and you've had the valve block apart, most likely place is the pressure switch. You'll most likely have had it out and it hasn't got a good seal so is allowing the tank to drain while standing. You wouldn't ordinarily notice it if you have no other leaks anywhere as no pressure in the tank would only show up if you dropped it down and tried to get it to rise back up. If you did that after it's been running for a while it would be fine as the tank would have had chance to fill. PTFE plumbers tape on the pressure switch, and doing it up tighter than you think feels necessary, works well.

I was thinking the same but afraid I'm not going to have time to give you a hand with yours. My MoT is due at the end of the month and I knew the exhaust was getting a little tired so had a crawl around underneath last night to see if there was anything else. OS rear axle oil seal leaking, OS front drag link gaiter perished and split and some weird marking on the rear brake discs which probably explains the slight brake judder under braking from speed that I sometimes get. Not normal brake judder, more a sort of shudder through the whole car. I'll get some photos of them when I change them (probably this weekend) for the pair of Delphi ones I've just ordered from Island. The ones on there are Allmakes and have only been there for 16 months (and have a 1 year warranty so out of luck there).

Definitely sounds like something isn't right. With mine set to Auto, which it invariably always is, the fan speed varies as needed. I keep it set on 20 degrees and in this weather the fan speed starts off slowly but within a few seconds speeds up to max. It then varies as needed to try to keep the interior at 20 degrees. If the sun is shining on the sensor on top of the dash the fan speed stays high but if the sun goes in or I stop in the shade, the fan speed drops. Sounds like yours isn't doing as it should, or you've got no sun in Scotland......

Nope, nothing as yet.

Won't do me a lot of good, mine are gutted. Maybe I should have taken the stuff I bashed out to the scrap man?

Mukiwa wrote:

When I checked my RF levels my wireless thermostat is on 933MHz,

I hope it isn't, that's in the middle of the O2/Voda downlink band. It'll be on 433 (most likely) or 868 if it's very new. My stat should, according to the manufacturers data sheet, transmit every 10 minutes (no idea why, I would have thought only when something needs to change would be quite sufficient) rather than every 20 seconds or so. I'll deal with it once it gets to the stage that the heating is actually needed. Probably screen part of it so it fires it's signal up the stairs to the boiler and not outside to the car. Be wary of what you see from an SDR, they are barn door wide on the front end and will see harmonics and spurious that aren't really there. Then again, having 32 grands worth of portable spectrum analyser as personal issue means I'm a bit spoilt......

Intermittent high resistance connection. By pulling it out you've moved something so now it works. Question is, for how long?

Lpgc wrote:

the forum I linked to above just had it's first legal threat from a vehicle import firm after someone left a bad review claiming a vehicle they'd paid a deposit on and went to buy had been clocked. Someone suggested that the site could cover it's own back by adding a disclaimer to every post to the effect 'the views expressed by users are not necessarily the views of this forum',

Not necessary. It isn't the forum that action would need to be taken against but the author of the post. If he could prove what he wrote was correct, then the firm wouldn't have a leg to stand on. If it was just a suspicion that would be different unless he specifically said he suspected it had been clocked and not that it actually had been. The forum is just a place to publish your views to a wider audience, no different to standing outside the firms premises with a big placard saying that they are selling clocked vehicles. They wouldn't be able to take legal action against the council for providing the pavement for him to stand on.

BrianH wrote:

I've not heard off Richard H in a while, neither has Dave who has developed the Filllpg App.

Neither have I but he must still be around. I've emailed him to see if he is one of the other interested parties and suggested he should be if he isn't. The LPG Forum and his site go hand in hand really.

Taking it out and attacking it with a soldering iron would be much cheaper.......

i would have thought the most logical, non-commercial, person to take it over would be Richard who runs Filllpg.co.uk. I've got his email address I'll drop him a note.

Feed to the high level brake light goes via a connector tucked up above the headlining next to where the rubber tube goes between the body and upper tailgate. Might be worth looking there first.

I've found these work best as long as the weight is downwards https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-32mm-100-pack