On vehicles later than 2001, it is shown on the V5 as that is what the road tax is based on, it isn't shown on anything earlier. You could take a couple of years off your cars age and show the figure for an identical 2001 model if they will accept that. Or just make up a number.....

Same as some of the London Boroughs charge a diesel more to park and not generate any pollution at all. When I had to drive into the City in my company 2015 Renault Kangoo, I, or my employers, had to pay ULEZ, Congestion Charge and extra to park.

Flashing then going to all 4 means a hard fault. If you have a height sensor out of range it will inhibit the pump so it doesn't damage anything. You probably have a dead spot on the track on one of the sensors so ever so often it will give the ECU and implausible reading.

Since getting it, I've never taken the cable off the Nanocom, I just leave it always connected. I remember seeing something about always connecting to the unit before plugging into the OBD socket too.

Through the screw holes that secure the plenum to the bulkhead and through the pollen filter housings. Make sure the seals on the pollen filter housings are good and not letting water in there (wet pollen filters is a good sign it is getting there) and take the screws out that hold the plenum down, squirt RTV under the screw holes and fit new self tappers.

It's only a 5A fuse so maybe drowning the back of the socket in rainwater was enough to cause it to blow?

Check fuse 33 (5A) as that is the one that supplies power to the OBD socket so runs the Nano as soon as it is plugged in.

So the question really isn't why does it suddenly cycle on for a short period but why does it stop in the first place if the pressure and thermal switches don't change state? My understanding is it should run until the pressure switch changes state so it stops and then only start again when the pressure has dropped. It is inhibited at certain times though which may prevent it from reaching full. Before I changed my compressor mounts so I can no longer hear it, I noticed it would sometimes run when sitting at a junction with the brakes on but stop as soon as I started moving.

As long as the thermal switch stays normal, as you say, it isn't a thermal issue so the only thing left is the pressure switch. IIRC pressure switch state and compressor state are on different pages on the Nano screen, so you can't easily see if the switch changes state at the same time as the compressor kicks in. It might be worth hanging an LED across the compressor so you can easily see if they coincide. That would suggest a lack of hysteresis in the pressure switch but as you have two that are both doing the same thing, that doesn't make a lot of sense unless that is how they go with age? It should be closed at 140 psi and not open until it drops to 120 psi.

Taking them off isn't a problem with an angle grinder and 1mm cutting blade. You just slice lengthways so the two halves of the nut fall off.

Yup, thinner spanner (or attack the one you have with a grinder).

The NNN100660 should be a straight swap for your NNN100600 which is the one used with SAI, you'll just need to copy over the code as detailed earlier. I suspect they are all very much the same just with different firmware depending on whether you have SAI or not. No mention of a different one for auto or manual but if they were different, you'd be hard pressed to find one for a manual, a V8, particularly a late model, with a manual gearbox is a bit into hens teeth territory.

I've actually got a NNN100660 that was bought to try to see if it cured a problem on another car that is from a 1999, 4.6, automatic and is a known good one. If you don't find one, drop me a PM as both my cars are GEMS.

I'd only put a link in as a get me home measure, I once drove through a blizzard at night sitting inside a sleeping bag due to a failed driver's side blend motor, not a lot of fun.

Genuine O rings are cheap (about 3 quid each last time I bought some) and changing them isn't the arduous task that many seem to make out it is. As you say, no point in complaining about it, just get on and do it. You'll have less coolant soaked into the carpet to deal with too.

Draught excluding door foam strips from B&Q. It comes on a roll and has sticky stuff on one side and a foam on the other, much the same as what was in there originally.

Yes, if it will go to the floor without pressure in the system, that would suggest air in the manual hydraulic circuit. Looks like you're going to be bleeding it again....

It may just be that your new modulator isn't as gummed up and partially seized as the old one and now you have a pedal that feels as it should have done all along.

RPi did buy a load from Marty so it will be a good one.

I doubt it would make a difference who has owned it, although it is believed it was owned at one time by Brad Pitt who gave it to Jennifer Aniston. They only built 6 Linley's and only 1 in LHD, the one spoken about here Of the other 5, one was stolen and disappeared and the others are all accounted for. See https://howmanymade.co.uk/2016/10/31/range-rover-linley/

When Marty started to offer these he had them made to his precise specifications by a supplier in China. Unfortunately the minimum order quantity was in the thousands but he went ahead anyway and sold batches of them to other resellers as well as selling them direct from his own website. I suspect all of those being advertised on eBay at the moment are from his batch whereas earlier ones may well be ones intended for something else that were close enough to fit but may not work perfectly.

My mate Danny followed Marty's instructions and fitted one which worked perfectly first time even though he does seem to have 10 thumbs. So if he can do it, anyone should be able to......

Knowing the prices some have paid for what I would only describe as 'very nice but not perfect' examples, your one of a kind should fetch 6 figures easily.

Is the pump running when the ignition is turned on? Insufficient brake pressure is the most common cause of Traction Failure.