Not mine but one a friend bought a couple of weeks ago. It was advertised as a 2000, was registered in March 1999 but is actually a very late 98 model, GEMS (WA VIN number) Vogue SE, or at least that is what the tailgate badge says. Although the registration document shows it has had 9 previous owners, it has only done 79,600 . The MoT history shows that it has been used rarely, some years it had done less than 200 miles between tests. The bodywork and underside are near immaculate, the EAS works perfectly, it drives superbly and the only thing letting it down are multiple marks on the back bumper where someone has been a little inaccurate when hitching up a trailer.
However, the downsides were the book showing on the HEVAC and the centre console not appearing to fit properly to the point where opening the centre glovebox was a two handed job as the window switch panel was sitting higher and further back than it should. It was dropped off with me to see if I could sort it out and what I found was it appeared that one of the previous owners was what could best be described as a bodging gorilla.
To start with, the instrument surround was cracked in half where one of the upper screws go in, so that was taken inside and plastic welded on the inside. The more I started taking apart, the more bodges I found. The panel that has the pushbuttons in should have 5 screws holding it in, there was 1 and that was loose. Checking with the Nanocom and with the instruments out, the distribution blend motor was doing nothing and it also reported a fault on the LH blend motor. While in there I noticed that the heater core temperature sensor was on the lower pipe, and not the upper one that it should be but the pipes didn't look right. Dropped the knee panel on mine to check and realised that someone had done the heater core O rings and got the pipes crossed! Not only that but there were signs that they were leaking slightly too. Fortunately I had a pair of O rings, so started on that. However, there wasn't the tell tale hole cut in the side panel that is the usual shortcut. Instead it appeared that whoever had done it had forced the panel apart to get in there resulting in this....
I didn't take the screw out on the right side, it wasn't there in the first place!
Cut the shortcut hole in the side panel, changed the O rings for the correct ones and not the oversized ones that were in there and swapped the pipes over so they lined up properly (probably the reason why it was leaking slightly anyway). Then got back to the blend motor problem.
Having used silicone oil on the distribution linkage, it moved nice and smoothly but the blend motor still didn't do anything. Blend motor was checked (only 3 screws holding it together and not 4 as it should have) and, after unplugging it from the HEVAC, it all tested fine but the crimped connectors in the cable showed it had previously been replaced. Cut the crimps out and soldered and heat shrinked the joints but still no movement from the distribution motor. After much head scratching I dug out a spare HEVAC I had, plugged that in and it worked perfectly, no book, no faults and everything did as it should. Turns out the previous bodger had obviously tested the blend motor by putting power to it without unplugging it from the HEVAC and burnt out the driver chip in the HEVAC. As I have done the same in the past on the HEVAC for the Ascot, I had bought some replacement L272M chips so could change it later. So, at that point It had my spare black fronted HEVAC and not the pretty wood fronted one it should have but I confirmed everything worked although there didn't seem to be a lot of air from the blowers. A look at the pollen filters explained that......
That is the drivers filter but the passenger one wasn't much better, so changed them and started putting everything back together. Plastic welded the broken bits, put everything in with the correct number of screws and remade the top mountings for the window switchpack and everything fitted perfectly. Even the switchpack had 4 of the little Torx headed screws missing from the back as these had been used to secure the HEVAC (about the only thing that was secured with the correct number of screws)! I had to find around 10-15 screws to refit everything as it should be.
The same bodger had also been inside the HEVAC and tried to remove the distribution driver chip, with a hammer and chisel by the look of it, so I cannibalised my spare HEVAC by taking the circuit board out of that and fitting it in the original one (and replaced one of the missing illumination lights too).
The owner collected the car last night and phoned me just before I started writing this to say that it looked good by torchlight but in daylight it looks perfect. Everything fits and looks as it should, there's no creaks or rattles coming from behind the dash and everything just works. Another satisfied owner but I wonder what the result would have been had it been bought by someone that just ignored the faults and not taken the time to get me to take care of it and get it back to how it should be.
Glad to help. The virtually identical two plug latch is also used on the MG TF. I say virtually identical as the MG latch has an extra wire and pin in the smaller plug that isn't needed on the P38 so can be ignored and it will work perfectly. My Ascot has an MG latch in it after the original died and it was cheaper to get the MG latch than the P38 one.
Pierre3 wrote:
Just out of interest, if I am soldering in the door how easy is it for the car to go on fire ????!!! Only joking.
Depends if you use a soldering iron or blowlamp.....
No, you can't take the pins out of the plugs as they are a different type of plug with different pins. No need to use bullet connectors to connect to the door loom, just swap the plugs over so you convert an early latch to a later one. Yes, the very early cars had a socket on the latch itself, then they went to the flying lead with two plugs before the later one that you have from 2000MY onwards with a single 8 way plug with only 7 pins used. In all cases the latches themselves were exactly the same.
That's an earlier latch for 94-99, your one was fitted from 2000 model year onwards. However, all is not lost. If you look, the wire colours on the latch are the same and they are connected inside the same, so you can chop the plug off yours and the plugs off the replacement and solder and heat shrink the wires. LHD passenger latch won't work as it won't have the keyswitch microswitch inside, only door ajar and CDL.
Pete12345 wrote:
Aren't the diffs the same front & rear on P38 ?
Although they are interchangeable and look the same, if you put them side by side, you'll see that the helix on the crown wheel is cut the opposite way. It hasn't stopped people fitting a rear 4 pin diff on the front, but will be noisier.
Just edited it for you. You need to leave a blank line between the end of the quote and your post.
My understanding is that on a car that has an EKA programmed, it should be left Enabled so when needed it is asked for. On one that doesn't have it programmed, such as NAS cars, it should be disabled. As I understand it, if it is programmed but Disabled when it is needed the dash doesn't tell you, so rather than getting the 'Engine immobilise, Press Remote or Enter Code' message, you simply get an 'Engine Immobilised, Press Remote' message.
If it is a Clarion (pre-99), it will have been back to Clarion at some time in the past and they always remove the code. When first switched on after the power has been disconnected it will say NO CODE on the display and then it just works.
You still have passive immobilisation enabled in the BeCM. If you unlock the car but don't start the car within 30 seconds, the immobiliser kicks in again. It needs an unlock code from the fob to reset it so there is a coil around the ignition switch that causes the fob to send an unlock code (exactly the same as you pressing the Unlock button) so it will start. If the coil fails, as they often do, it doesn't cause the fob to transmit so you get 'Engine Immobilised, Press remote of Enter Code' come up on the dash. As long as you unlock and then immediately start the car, it isn't needed. If passive immobilisation is turned off then the tie limit is removed and the fob will no longer flash as the car knows it isn't needed.
Just because EKA is disabled in the BeCM, doesn't mean it doesn't need it, just that it won't ask for it when it is needed. EKA should always be enabled but passive immobilisation should be disabled. In the menu on a Nanocom this is simply marked as Immobilisation so people disable it thinking they have disabled the immobiliser but they haven't, only passive immobilisation.
No, you can't get at it with the latch in place. It's inside, you have to take the latch out and open it up.
Interior lights are controlled by the door ajar switch which is inside the latch itself. However, it is in a block of 3 switches that are rated at IP68 so other than giving it some exercise there's not a lot you can do as you can't squirt any contact cleaner into it.
It doesn't appear to exist as a part but is it a squashy foam or more solid? I would think you will find something suitable with a wander around a DIY shop looking at insulation materials.
I carry my toolbox with just about everything in it to dismantle a P38 down to its component parts, so would be able to remove a diff if needed. I am also in need of a couple of bits for a friend who has recently bought a '98 Vogue SE. The instrument surround is in two pieces so need one of those and if you have the tool holder, ideally with the original tools (jack, wheelbrace, etc), that would be most welcome as it is missing from the car. So is the locking wheelnut key but I doubt you would have one of those, or at least not the correct pattern unless really lucky.
I've always used Mahle (OC261) from my local motor factors at around the same price as the genuine ones.
Belt it with a mallet from underneath while your tame assistant turns the key. That should be enough to jolt it free, otherwise you will need to take it off to free it.
We both got it wrong. Yes, the number I gave you is for a RH latch for a LHD car, but the one you have FQJ103220 is up to VIN XA428521, a 99 model. You need FQJ103260 which is listed as RH, RHD car from VIN XA428522 (see https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/9.55820.56288.60756/brand/land-rover/).
If you have the DSP system and the original amp died, some people have been known to fit an amp from a Discovery instead. It works but only on the front speakers and not the rear. The P38 system only has two feeds, left and right, to the DSP amp and the front/rear fade is dealt with in the amp itself. When substituting Marty's DSP modification, it is necessary to run the rear left and right feeds from the head unit to the amp.
The 1 shows it to be a 2001 model, A shows it built at Solihull and 452327 is the individual serial number for the car. You will see parts listed as for cars after YA430702 which shows 2000 model (Y) and serial number 430702, so that is the one you want, part number FQJ103280. Model year was shown by a letter up to 2000 but then changed to numbers from 2001 onwards. When they ran out of numbers for model year, they went back to letters.
This is how the Land Rover VIN is decoded:
Geographical Region (1st Character)
S Europe
Country (2nd Character)
A United Kingdom
Manufacturer (3rd Character)
L Land Rover
Model Type (4th and 5th Characters)
LB Series III
LD Ninety, One Ten, 127, Defender
LH Range Rover Classic
LJ Discovery
LM Range Rover L322
LN Freelander
LP Range Rover P38
LT Discovery Series II
Wheelbase (6th Character)
A Series III 88″, Defender 90″ extra heavy duty, Range Rover Classic 100″, Range Rover (38A) 108″, Freelander
B Series III 88″ Lightweight, Defender 110″ extra heavy duty, Range Rover Classic LSE 108″, Freelander Commercial
C Series III 109″, Defender 130″ extra heavy duty
D Series III 109″
G 100″ (Discovery)
H 110″ (L/R)
K 130″ (L/R)
M Special Build
R 110″ (24 volt)
S 90″ (24 volt)
V 90″ (L/R)
Body Style (7th Character)
A Basic, Soft Top, Pickup, Hardtop Van Commercial, Freelander 3 Door Commercial, Discovery 3 or 5 Door
B Series III 88" Station Wagon, Defender 3door Station Wagon, Range Rover Classic 2 door, Discovery 3 door, Freelander 5 Door
F Defender 4 door Crew cab non Hi-capacity
H High Capacity Pick Up with/without crew cab
M Defender 5door Station Wagon, Range Rover Classic 5 door, Range Rover P38 5 door, Discovery 5 door
R Range Rover Moneverdi
Engine Type (8th Character)
A 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, High Compression Unleaded
B 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, turbo-diesel, 19J 2.0L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘L’ Series, turbo-diesel
C 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, diesel,12J 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, Low Compression Unleaded
D 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, petrol, 17H 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, Low Compression Leaded
E 3.5L, V8 carb, petrol, High Compression,2.4L, inline 4 cylinder, VM Diesel, 2.0L, inline 4 cylinder, BMW M47 (Td4), diesel
F 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, turbo-diesel (200Tdi/300Tdi) non EGR/cat, 11L or 16L, 1.8L, inline 4 cylinder, ‘K’ Series, High Compression Leaded
G 2.25L, inline 4 cylinder, diesel, 2.5L, V6, ‘KV6’ Series, Unleaded
H 2.25L, inline 4 cylinder, petrol, 2.5L, V6, ‘KV6’ Series, Leaded
J 4.6L, V8 Efi, petrol , 2.5L, V6, ‘KV6’ Series, Ethanol
L 3.5L, V8 Efi, petrol
M 3.9 & 4.0L, V8 Efi, petrol
N 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, VM Diesel
P 2.6L, inline 6 cylinder, IOE petrol
V 3.5L, V8 carb, petrol, Low Compression
W 2.5L, inline 6 cylinder, BMW Diesel
Y 2.0L, inline 4 cylinder Mpi, petrol
1 4.0L, V8Efi, Low Compression with Cat
2 4.0L, V8Efi, High Compression with Cat
3 4.0L, V8Efi, Low Compression without Cat
6 2.5L, inline 4 cylinder, turbo-diesel (200Tdi/300Tdi) EGR/cat
8 2.5L, inline 5 cylinder, turbo-diesel (Td5) EGR
9 2.5L, inline 5 cylinder, turbo-diesel (Td5) EGR without Cat (Disco II), 2.8L, inline 6 cylinder, M52 BMW petrol
Gearbox Type (9th Character)
1 Series III 4 speed / Right Hand Drive, LT95 4 speed / Right Hand Drive, JATCO 5 speed Auto / Right Hand Drive
2 Series III 4 speed / Left Hand Drive, LT95 4 speed / Left Hand Drive, JATCO 5 speed Auto / Left Hand Drive
3 Chrysler 747 3 speed Auto / Right Hand Drive, ZF 4 speed Auto / Right Hand Drive
4 Chrysler 747 3 speed Auto / Left Hand Drive, ZF 4 speed Auto / Left Hand Drive
5 RHD 4 speed gearbox + overdrive
6 LHD 4 speed gearbox + overdrive
7 LT77 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, LT77S 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, LT85 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, R380 5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive, PG1 5 speed5 Speed Manual / Right Hand Drive
8 LT77 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, LT77S 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, LT85 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, R380 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive, PG1 5 speed5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive
Year of Build (10th Character)
A 2010
B Ser. III CSW or R/R Phase II, or 90/110 face lift to 1987 or M/Y 2011
C R/R 1986 M/Y or 2012
D R/R 1987 M/Y or 2013
E 1988 or 2014
F 1989 or 2015
G 1990 or 2016
H 1991 or 2017
J 1992 or 2018
K 1993
L 1994
M 1995
T 1996
V 1997
W 1998
X 1999
Y 2000
1 2001
2 2002
3 2003
4 2004
5 2005
6 2006
7 2007
8 2008
9 2009
Build Location (11th Character)
A Solihull, United Kingdom
F Worldwide
G South Africa
Unique Serial Number (12th - 17th Characters)
I've got a fusebox in my garage where the fuel pump relay didn't kick in when it should. That was down to a loose terminal in the fusebox so the ground signal from the engine ECU to operate the relay wasn't getting there. So Bolt's theory is right, if the terminal is loose, you've disturbed it by swapping the relay so it is now making contact, but won't do for long......
Although it might just have been a dodgy relay.