Yes, you need to do the test moving but the Nanocom will disconnect as soon as you hit 5mph (a 'feature' of the Wabco system, not the Nanocom) so you need to trickle along slowly. Any fault with the ABS will also cause a Traction Control fault as the TC uses information from the ABS to detect if a wheel is spinning or not.

Can't help with your gearbox fan as only diesels have it, a V8 has a much larger cooler so doesn't need a fan. It doesn't seem to appear in the ETM although there is a description of how it works.

Are those Nanocom wheel sensor readings while standing still? What you need to do is start looking at them and then very slowly start driving forwards. All should start to read at the same time and will rise at a steady rate. Any that are sluggish in starting or read different to the others, is the faulty one.

Dig a second one out for me too. Mine has been telling me that Fuse 20 is blown for years now. I understand there's resistor that goes open circuit and have been meaning to replace it for ever but having a replacement to put in in case it doesn't work (or I make it worse) would be handy.

Yup, it's on Imgur.com, same pixel size as the one that's there now, so the url is near identical but it doesn't recognise it as a jpg.

Existing one is https://i.imgur.com/wsu0e4s.jpg
new one is https://i.imgur.com/rd1ioVf.jpg

Amps are down in the bottom front corner, so easily missed if you aren't actually looking for them.

Nope, still tells me it has to be a GIF, BNP or JPG and rejects my .JPG file?

and I see you've updated the banner. I'll see if it will let me change my avatar now.....

That's fair enough, if I've got the press tool I can do them myself. Maybe that will stop it having the steering response of a supertanker (or a ship called Dali....).

Best replacement for the door woofers are the JBL Stage 600CE and they comes as a pair with decent replacement tweeters too. I've replaced all 4 of mine with them. Speakers for the sub are also 6.5 inch (if you have the sub with two speakers) and any half decent sub speaker of the correct size will work fine.

No, I'm much further south than that I'm afraid, my route will be Peterborough, Wellingborough, Northampton, Oxford, all cross country. There's not even a convenient meet up point as we are in completely different directions. I don't do a stop-over unless the journey is more than a 24 hour drive.....

The DSP amp is deep inside behind the sound deadening felt. It may be that if you have a Discovery amp in there the head unit doesn't detect it as a DSP amp so the option doesn't appear.

Had a look at mine this morning and the problem was obvious. Due to the curvature of the rear screen, as the wiper moves across the screen it has to hinge at the base of the wiper arm and mine was seized solid. A squirt of Plus Gas followed by some lube got it working perfectly again. Spoke to Nigel about something else and told him. He checked his and found the exact same problem so we can both now use the rear wiper.

For anyone else suffering the same problem, get it to move by giving it a helping hand and hit the boot release button while it is visible then try to lift the wiper away from the rear screen and you'll almost certainly find you can't. Lube the hinge with whatever you have handy and work it back and forth a few times and it will work as it should again.

Not been in there before but mine has started doing exactly the same thing. It has been working perfectly ever since I've owned the car but then I switch it on a couple of days ago to clear the rain off the rear screen and it only moved a couple of inches. Got out and gave it a helping hand and it parked OK. Now it will only give a part wipe before stopping so that is now one of my Easter holiday jobs. I'll let you know how I get on.....

If you poke the tone button on the stereo and DSP comes up as one of the options, you have the DSP amp. If it has died in the past someone may have fitted one from a Discovery which results in no rear speakers.

I always thought the Unlock EAS button allowed you to control it if it was in hard fault. However, I always go, Read Faults, Unlock EAS, Faults and then read again, that clears everything.

There's a button on the EASUnlock software that doesn't look like a button, it looks like a box, marked 'FAULTS'. Click on that and it clears all the faults, then you can click on Read Faults again to see remains.

My Ascot needs new front top and bottom ball joints so if nobody else wants it, I'll take the front axle assembly and just swap the whole lot.

I've got all next week from Tuesday onwards free so can come over any of those days. How does that fit in with others so there will be more than just Marty and me to shift big stuff?

It runs all the time so the system is kept exercised and the flow of fuel through the fuel rail stops the injectors from overheating. So it simply flows through the fuel rail to the pressure regulator and then back to the tank. To stop it from leaking between noticing the problem and doing something about it, I pulled the petrol pump relay and forced the car to start on LPG. On the very first LPG car I owned (a Saab 900) I completely forgot about that and let the petrol tank run right down, that burnt out the pump as it was running with nothing flowing through it and then ran out of LPG. AA man towed me to the nearest filling station with LPG so I could fill up on that and run on LPG alone until I could put a new pump in.

I'm busy odd days next week but free the whole week after Easter if that helps.