As I never did get the Ascot to you for the front ball joint change, Can I have first dibs on the tool for changing them?
Will this do you?
If you've got the full version of RAVE, it's included in that under the heading New Range Rover. That covers the L322 up to 2005. Laid out a bit differently but the wiring diagrams are in colour.
65 ft/lb or 85 Nm, roughly the same torque. I do them in 3 stages, 40, 55, 65 ft/lb.
There's this one that looks decent (no rust on the rear wheelarches) but is an HSE so almost certainly will have a sunroof. It's in North Bristol and I've got the contact details for the owner if interested. https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/old-girl-needs-a-new-home.360088/#post-2423889
There's this one that looks decent (no rust on the rear wheelarches) but is an HSE so almost certainly will have a sunroof. It's in North Bristol and I've got the contact details for the owner if interested. https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/old-girl-needs-a-new-home.360088/#post-2423889
I had a 97 4.0 SE I bought as a project and sold on when it was all sorted. That had a sunroof so it seems the SE came with one too. To swap bits over and keep things compatible, you'd need to look for a 97 or earlier. Lots of minor changes for the 98MY so you could run into problems with bits that aren't interchangeable.
I don't have a sunroof in mine but it was a special order for the police with only the options they requested but my '96 HSE Ascot does. I suspect it was only the lower spec ones that didn't have one but you never know. Some of the limited editions such as the Bordeaux were actually a low spec, not much above base, but from what I can find, they had a sunroof. Personally I can't see one being necessary with AC, all it does is encourage water leaks and increase wind noise.
To get under it initially, Nigel had his Nanocom in the car so I told him to go into the EAS menu, outputs and open the front two valves and the inlet valve so it lifted the front. When I got there 2 days later it was still sitting with the front up in the air but I put my trolley jack under front axle to lift it up a bit more. Only really needed as he has the side steps, without there would have been plenty of room to slide under it without using the jack.
Thanks Nigel, a nice easy job as it turned out. The top starter motor bolt can be awkward to get at but having done it a few times, it can be done by feel. Otherwise taking the wheelarch liner out allows it to be seen but is a bit of a faff. The nice part was that as the engine had been fully rebuilt not that long ago, everything under there was clean and not covered in oil as you'd normally expect. Not only that, as the car had sat there from Thursday afternoon to Saturday morning, I wasn't dodging a hot exhaust downpipe to get at it either. When I took the dead one back for the refund they were surprised as they normally get given something covered in black gunge having been under a car for years.
Before taking the old one off, the definitive test was to drop a jump lead down the side of the engine. One end on the battery positive and the other end onto the cable between solenoid and starter. If it is the solenoid, the starter will spin, if it is the starter it won't. It didn't spin and just drew a small spark rather than a nice big splat so definitely dead.
You can cut one of the braces under the dash and take the upper steering column off and it will come out then. I took the dash out to do one and the heater matrix doesn't need to be removed completely, just twisted to one side.
I've been averaging 30k miles a year for the last 4 or 5 years now, so I may hit the half million by the end of the year. If not it will be early next year. Not got any long trips (i.e. anything over a couple of thousand miles) planned at the moment, although you never know. I was asked about the logistics (and changes in regulations due to Brexit) of collecting a car from Germany a few weeks ago but heard no more.
All I've got to hope is that I don't miss it. You know how it is, look at it one time and see 499,990 and the next time I look and it's already gone over and I didn't get a photo of it.
Not today but over the weekend. A few months ago I noticed oil on the inside of the nearside front wheel from a leaking axle seal, so fitted a new Corteco seal. All good, for a while anyway. While swapping the wheels around to even up the wear last week (fronts wearing faster than the rears as expected) I noticed oil on the inside of the same nearside front tyre. A blast with degreaser from the pressure washer and a run down the road showed it was coming from the same oil seal. Decided I'd get a genuine LR one this time with the LR Classic site showing it as in stock so nipped down to the local LR main dealer and got them to order it to save on postage. Having got that I got stuck in on Sunday. I knew the dust seals on one of the front calipers were split and I'd got an overhaul kit on the shelf (bought when I'd first seen it but never got around to fitting it) and a pair of front discs and pads ready to go on too.
Did the oil seal first and found the Corteco one had split. Whether I had damaged it when fitting it or if I'd just got a duff one I don't know but it certainly explained the amount of oil that was coming out.
Fitted the new seal, whacked the brake disc off while the complete hub and half shaft assembly was out, cleaned everything up and put it back together. I don't like using hose clamps or Mole grips on brake flexi hoses so undid the banjo bolt and put an M10 bolt and nut through it with the copper washers to stop the brake fluid all falling out. Used my tyre pump to push the pistons out, cleaned up the pistons, cleaned the rust out of the groove the dust seal sits in and put it all back together with lots of brake seal grease. Getting the new dust seal in is easy once you work out how. Put it onto the piston and push it all the way down so the part that fits in the groove in the caliper is hanging free beyond the end of the piston, lay it in place and all bar the last inch or so slots straight into the groove. Poke that into the groove with a blunt screwdriver tip and the piston slides back in nicely. Fit the new disc, pads and caliper, get the other half to take a break from her gardening and do the up, down, up down on the brake pedal to bleed it and the wheel goes back on. The other side was just a repeat of the above but without having to take the hub out for the oil seal, that was just the brake job.
Then turned my attention to the rear. I've had a clank from the rear offside for a while when going over bumps and the dust shield was flapping about so thought I'd tackle that too. Jacked it up on the towbar so both rear wheels were clear of the ground, off with the wheel, brake caliper, caliper carrier and disc and sure enough, the steel strip that holds it in place had rusted through. Also notice that when I was turning the disc to gently tap it off, there was a scraping noise from the other side as the wheel turned. So that one needed doing too. Had to grind the remains of the bolts that held what was left of the strips to the dust shield but managed to get the bolts holding it to the hub out with the trusty Irwin bolt remover and lots of Plus Gas. Made up new strips from some alloy strip I had laying around and pop riveted them to the dust shield top and bottom.
Out of the whole job the only thing I wasn't happy with were the banjo bolts and copper washers on the front calipers. The heads on the bolts were rusted so a 13mm socket was a very loose fit and the copper washers sealed but didn't look too clever.
So that was it, all ready for the MoT on Tuesday morning. While it was sitting on the ramp with the engine idling, one of the mechanics, a new guy that hasn't been there long and wasn't aware of my car, commented that the engine was sounding sweet. The tester told him to look at the mileage and he asked why it was showing in kilometers. He couldn't quite believe the 492,227 showing was in miles. Seeing the ends of the shiny new pop rivets on the rear dust shields the tester said he would have just taken them off and thrown them away but they were put there for a purpose so my view is to keep them. Result was a pass with no advisories.
Ordered a pair of front caliper banjo bolts and a set of washers from Island4x4 yesterday morning and they arrived a few minutes ago, so I'll change them shortly. I bought a set of Dunlop air springs a few months ago and only changed the rears, so I'll change the fronts when I get time (or when they start leaking) and I've got a petrol pump to fit as I've worn out the track on the gauge sender with constantly running with just under 1/4 of a tank for years so I get an intermittent fuel gauge fault come up on the dash and a yellow low fuel warning light until I bung a few litres in it. Just got to find the time now, hopefully before I hit the 500k mark.
It sounds like you have done everything to check it and found nothing. When you say it works in reverse does it work normally? I had a gearbox fail on me and that wouldn't work in reverse either. The only thing I can suggest is you phone Ashcroft Transmissions (https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/) and speak to Dave Ashcroft, he should be able to point you in the right direction.
You need to investigate if it is the steering lock or the lock barrel. If the lock barrel won't turn it won't take the steering lock off but equally if the steering lock won't release, the key won't turn. If the latter, that is why giving the steering wheel a wiggle will allow it to turn. If you can get the lock barrel out, which you should be able to with the key in it, will be able to see if all the wafers are moving as they should. Never done it on a P38 so not how possible it is, but on another car I have actually taken the steering lock bolt out so it doesn't lock. I can't see why it won't be possible but like I say, never got in there and tried it.
Aragorn wrote:
NO idea why they didnt just move the engine over an inch in the bay...
If you look, it isn't central anyway, it is offset towards the drivers side as the propshafts run down the passenger side.
There's multiple places where the wheel can be out of alignment. The steering box needs to be centralised, there's a tab on the input shaft that has to be aligned with a 'lump' on the casting. At that point the drag link needs to be adjusted to get the wheels straight ahead otherwise it will always pull to one side or the other when steering straight ahead. If those two adjustments are correct, then you've got the splined intermediate shaft at top and bottom which can go on anywhere and finally the steering wheel on it's splines. There's no telling if it had been misaligned previously but now you have chance to get it all correct.
You've got it. By default it comes up to show AC, so there is a button you press to toggle between AC and DC and a Zero button otherwise it will show current flow from the earth's magnetic field. Clamp the end around a cable and it shows the current flowing in that cable. You have to go around just one, if you try to use it around a two core cable so it has both power and return, it will show nothing as they cancel each other out. If both sides show the same, then they are both drawing the same current so both working as they should.
As you probably realise, it will only power up the relays with the engine running so measuring current draw with your DMM is probably not a good idea. A clamp meter will show you if it is drawing current but it won't show you how much of it is working. When they fail they tend to lose strips so verifying if all the screen or only part of it are working will be difficult. You could check on the two power feeds to see if one side is drawing more than the other though which will give you a clue. I've got one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/UT210E-Current-Meters-Capacitance-Tester/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?th=1 that works very well at very low currents so good for checking battery drain problems and doubles as a DMM and NFC checker (for seeing if a wire has live mains on it without having to actually connect to it) too.
Jeez, that's more than I pay for a trade policy that covers any number of cars. No restrictions on hybrid or full electric cars either, although they won't cover steam powered vehicles or kit cars though.