It's sort of regional. There's National channels so you'll get the same no matter where you are then there are local multiplexes which carry your local stations. If you bung your postcode in here http://www.getdigitalradio.com/stations/index/?showall=1 it'll tell you what national and local ones you'll get in your area

But I'm at the end of the first leg of a 2,000 mile round trip already! I'm currently on top of a mountain just outside of Nice surrounded by olive trees, the swimming pool is at 28 degrees, the fridge is full of beer (although not quite so full as it was yesterday) and my dinner is in the oven. Give me a few days and I might get bored enough to want to start playing with cars again though.

No, the aerial is central at the back and there's a hole with a grommet next to where the cables into the upper tailgate go through. Easy enough to poke the cable through that and by pulling the tailgate seal down you can feed the cable across above the headlining to one side. Then you can get it every so often just by pulling the top of the door rubbers down until you reach the passenger A post trim and poke it behind that.

I found that the on-glass aerials don't work too well and are directional when stuck on the rear side windows. I changed to one of these http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/sonichi-magnetic-roof-mount-dab-antenna and ran the cable above the headlining. Works very well.

I may be closer than I would normally be but still 1600 kms away from you. Slightly too far for a day trip with the Nano that's in the pocket on the back of the passenger seat....... I'm useless with a trowel though.

T plate? 98? A 98 would be on an R or S plate, a T would normally be a Thor not GEMS and would have a VIN starting XA. Or are you trying to confuse the Spanish by running false plates?

However, as long as you have the correct crank position sensor, it will just work. If it will bolt in and the cable connect to it, it is the correct one and a dead CKP will stop the car from starting. So if you fit the new one and it starts, it's fine.

super4 wrote:

Surely, if the idle is set to the zero volt/impedance position regardless it would have remembered with the old one and remained as before.

Idle voltage is usually around the 0.6-0.8V mark and it is set so that idle isn't fully at the end of the travel. What happens with an old one is the plastic wears so the pot can return towards the end stop. Then the throttle closed voltage is lower than the stored voltage and you get a slight hesitation as you open the throttle (easy check is see if you can hold the revs at 900 rpm, with wear you'll find you can't, it'll be idle or 1,000+). Fitting the new one without the wear and the voltage is higher hence the high idle.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

They even threw in a leather scented magic tree. lol.

That's only in case you have a Japanese car or a Jeep where they can manage to make real leather look and smell like plastic......

Yeah, Castrol 10W-60 but I stock up on it whenever Eurocarparts do one of their 50% off all oil weekends. Seems to work well enough though, did 800 miles at a steady 80-85 mph yesterday with no ill effects. At one point I looked down and saw 95 showing on the clock. I considered taking it up to a ton, getting picture of the dash and posting it with the caption, "Eat yer heart out, Smiler....."

super4 wrote:

just wondered how the organizers get their reward !

By sticking two fingers up to a man known as RRToadhall. He's the Admin on Rangerovers.net and is a complete arsehole. Being an American he is always right (when he often isn't), has no concept of humour (particularly not if it involves sarcasm) and will ban anyone that corrects him when he posts something that is wrong or even thinks about using such disgusting language as the word I just used to describe him (hence the tagline on this site which dates back to when the Defender came out on coils after years Series Landy production on leaf springs and me and Gordon had both got a ban for on the other site for using). Over a beer or 5, Gordon and me came up with the idea of an alternative forum, one with no profanity filter, no rules, a virtual pub where people with similar interests can sit and chat away to their heart's content. When the .pub domain names were released, it just seemed obvious. Gordon did the initial setting up and the software that forms the forum is open source and free for anyone to use. The site is hosted on a server from Gordon's own domain company. Costs are minimal but when it does crash for whatever reason, the Gordon is the only one that can give it a kick and get it working again (which can be inconvenient if he happens to be at work at the time). He could give us the password to his server but then we'd all see his stash of.........

Blimey, mine uses about half a litre between changes every 10,000 miles . OK, so it's only done 50,000 since the full V8 Dev rebuild and what it uses is mostly down to the tiny leak from the back of the valley gasket which is down to the plonker (me) who didn't use enough RTV on the ends of the rubber seals.

Bit late to the party here as I've been driving to get where I am (a lot closer to Super4 than normal but still a bloody long way off). I've been in exactly the same state as you are now and found that no amount of driving will get the TPS voltage to adapt down to normal. It'll appear to go part way, but all it is doing is adjusting the idle valve setting. The way it works is that the voltage from the TPS is stored in the ECU as closed throttle, when you give it a tiny bit of throttle the voltage rises and that acts like the progression jet in a carb. Idle jet supplies fuel at idle, main jet supplies fuel at open throttle and progression jet supplies it during the transition between the two. So, if the ECU sees the stored voltage, it sets the idle air valve to get the idle correct, you open the throttle a crack and the idle air valve opens to raise the revs before the airflow through the butterfly takes over and allows big gobs of air through.

So, you have two choices. Do an adaptive reset that changes the stored voltage that the ECU is expecting to see or make the voltage match the stored one. The first requires a dedicated bit of test gear which you don't have (and the unit your man has with plug in modules will be a generic tester with the modules giving the specific codes for the vehicle you are plugged into, like the £4k Snap On unit that does little more than a £30 generic tester) the second can be done with a bit of mild bodgery. Enlarge the mounting holes in the TPS so it can be turned, start the engine and let it idle at 1,000 rpm or whatever it has decided it is going to idle at, then turn the TPS clockwise a touch. That will bring the voltage down to what the ECU is expecting to see and the idle will drop to normal. Mine was like that for 3 years until I bought the Nanocom, reset it so it wasn't lopsided and poked the Reset Adaptive Values button......

I did my pre-MoT grovel under it to see if I could see anything that the tester would get offended about but as the top and bottom ball joints were replaced about 20 months ago and the track rod ends a year ago I didn't even look at them. Found I've got a very slight oil weep from the pinion oil seal on the rear diff but other than that I, or the tester, couldn't find anything amiss underneath.

I still wouldn't fit anything else either. Went back for the retest this morning and mentioned it to the tester and he reckons it's the same with everything. Hardly any rubber content, if any at all, and track rod and CV gaiter boots with splits is become a very common failure.

When I went for the MoT last year the rubber boots on both ends of the track rod were perished and falling to bits. Rather than mess around I just got the complete Lemforder track rod kit so track rod with a ball joint on one end, track rod end and adjuster and fitted that. Took the car in for this years MoT yesterday expecting all to be fine and it failed on track rod ball joint boot split. Now my local factors stocks random sized boots for a quid each so I shot straight down there and picked one up. Split the taper and took the split boot off and found the ball joint itself was perfect and still had the original grease in it but the boot was falling to pieces. It doesn't look to be made of rubber either, more like a sort of rubbery plastic (vinyl?). Whatever it was made off, it doesn't last like old fashioned rubber does. It may not perish but it splits instead but I would have expected it to last longer than 12 months (admittedly that's 23,000 miles). So if you've fitted Lemforder expecting to fit and forget, think again.

Is that 3-5 working days, 3-5 public holiday days or 3-5 days without a Y in them?

Congrats, now you've got an apprentice. Having someone with little hands is always useful.

Reminds me of a poster that started appearing around Central London sponsored by some bunch of vegans. It showed a picture of a sheep and a dog and the caption said "Why do we keep one as a pet and kill the other?". Someone had written on one, "because we aren't in Korea....."

You should have said, we did the one in the Ascot on Monday, you could have called round and seen how it's done.

no10chris wrote:

O-rings and switch pack aren't exactly major problems

But the O rings are to some people, it's a huge job that is going to take days to do. My record is down to 26 minutes.......