Have you got a decent vice? Put a socket slightly larger than the hole of one side and something, a nut or whatever you can find, on the other side. Do the vice up tight and push it out. There's two chances, it'll start to move or you'll break the vice.....
I've just uploaded the LPGA (now UKLPG) Code of Practice to Google Drive for you https://drive.google.com/open?id=1q91-U9r6C5otXeuujL8WUldzoJ99tzfX
No requirement for electrical conductivity, and the pipe run needs to be located where it can be examined for damage, protected from damage and securely fixed. Although 6mm would probably suffice, I'd go with 8mm to be on the safe side. Using Polypipe is easy, that's why people use it.
Scrolling down the page expecting to find a damning report on how bad it is, Morat's post actually made me laugh out loud......
I'll be interested to see what the verdict is. My centre box is a Euro Car Parts special, just over a year old and seems to be holding up quite well although the Y pipe and rear sections are beginning to look a bit tired. ECP don't list the Y pipe but do a matching rear section that is pretty cheap as long as you use one of their x% off offers (35% this weekend).
Maybe it depends on what else is on the car. You've found that a combination of Terrafirmas and polys don't play well together but maybe they are OK with original bushes. I've got orange polys and Boge and that combination seems to work fine. If Robbo tries my front Boges then he can decide if he wants a pair of those or your Terrafirmas for the rear. I'm not selling them though, they are just taking up space in the garage in case I, or anyone else, needs them. Like I say, I doubt there's much life left in them as I suspect they are the originals so will have done the best part of 300,000 (ish, as I don't remember exactly when I changed them).
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
As if you've previously fitted Terrafirma's and didnt enlighten us.
I mentioned back in post #60 (at the bottom of the last page) that some people had said they made the ride a bit hard but you've just confirmed what I'd heard. I suppose if someone is putting them on a car that has been converted to coils they've never experienced the magic carpet ride and would think they were an improvement. I've got a pair of secondhand front Boges if you want to try those Robbo. I replaced my rears as one had leaked and figured that I should probably do the fronts as well but what I took off and what I put on didn't seem any different. I doubt there's that much life left in them though.
Mine do as well, makes changing the rear shocks dead easy. Be interested to hear what you think of the terrafirmas, some people have said they make the ride quite harsh which is why I stuck with original Boge.
From the picture it looks like there's a brass thing screwed in that the temperature sensor would push into. If you unscrew that does it leave the correct size threaded hole? The lack of male to male pipe to connect the inlet filter solenoid is a bit of a problem though but I suspect they expect you to mount the solenoid remotely and connect the two with a short length of copper pipe with nuts and olives on each end.
Ray recently found that his desiccant had turned to concrete (https://rangerovers.pub/topic/709?page=2) and was restricting the flow, maybe yours is the same?
Give them a bell, they are very friendly and don't bite. What you have doesn't look like any of the other Tomasetto reducers shown on their site, in fact, as you say, it does look very much like a Zavoli. Maybe just a bit of badge engineering or the two companies have become one.
On every one I've tried to remove, the nut has rusted so much that you can't get a socket to grip on it. When you do get something to grip (Irwin grip in my case) the whole thing rotates and chews up, or rips off, the plastic mounting lug. Admittedly I've never had to touch a front one it's always been rears that I've need to change. Maybe they are more exposed so rust quicker?
Assuming you can get them off without resorting to an angle grinder.......
Glad to be able to help. Not sure how they can be cheaper but they do seen to be across the board. I even checked my bike insurance and although that was only a couple of quid cheaper, it was still cheaper than I am paying. Being an old codger, the bike is insured with Saga!
Orangebean wrote:
Third party only quotes were on average £200 more than that. WTF?
I noticed the same thing so Googled to see why
https://www.moneysupermarket.com/press-releases/motor-myth-busted-fully-comp-cheaper-than-third-party-only/
Not sure if anyone else has tried it but mustard.co.uk seems to give lower quotes that any of the other comparison sites. The best quote I got for a Classic policy for my Maserati last year was £147 a year but mustard quoted me £83. Dina's daughter recently bought a car, a Nissan Micra but the 1.6 Sport model (as it was a nice colour and looked cute, not the sort of criteria we would use to buy a car but there you go) and the best quote on goCompare was over 3 grand for a 22 year old learner. Mustard gave the same cover, with a company that you've heard of (Hastings) for £830.
On a Thor I think there are O rings where the metal pipes attach to the block and inlet manifold but not where the hoses connect to the pipes. So if you are just replacing the hoses, no need to worry. When I've got new ones to fit, rather than pulling and heaving on the old hoses to get them off, I just slit them lengthwise with a Stanley knife so they come off easily.
The whole coolant flow doesn't go through the reducer and heater, only that in the heater circuit. The heater circuit is the only place it flows through when started from cold and it's only when the stat opens does it go through the radiator as well. Removing as many joins as possible is always a good idea, every join is a potential leak point. So best to replace hose 22, the return from the heater after you have taken the Tee out of it. Obviously you need to have joins in the flow side as you have to reduce the hose size from 19mm down to 16mm and back again, but if you use decent quality (ideally metal) reducers and new hose, you shouldn't have a problem.
I wouldn't bypass the throttle body heater, especially not at this time of the year. Ideal conditions for carburettor or throttle body icing are high humidity and a temperature slightly above freezing. The airflow through the venturi accelerates and cools so the damp in the air freezes in the venturi coating the inside of the venturi and throttle plate with ice. In the old days cars used to have a swivelling intake on the air filter and the winter position would draw warmed air in from next to the exhaust manifold. Many years ago I ran a car that had been fitted with pancake filters and got so used to it icing I used to boil a kettle and put it in the car before setting off for work. After about half a mile the car would go ridiculously rich and splutter to a halt so I'd pour the contents of the kettle over the carbs to melt the ice that had formed inside them. When I went out to the Ascot this morning it was covered in condensation and the HEVAC said it was 3 degrees outside, perfect icing conditions without a throttle body heater.
I changed the plumbing on the Ascot to series but although I'd got full flow, the heater was doing odd things. After glueing the dash top down a couple of days ago I ran the engine with the Prog button in (but heated screens switched off) to warm up the glue and help it set. Although it started off hot, after leaving the engine idling for around 20 minutes, the heater was barely lukewarm. So this morning, having seen you'd improved your heater by backflushing the matrix, I pulled the two pipes and did the same. Something resembling tomato soup came out..... Having put it back together, used it a little while ago and the heater is now working exactly as it should.
Yes that's right, in hose 21 (and not 22 as I think I said before). So it';s manifold, reducer, heater and then the return as it was intended. No Tees, but you'll need 19-16mm reducers in the hoses but the restriction is not noticeable..
I don't think you'd want to use anything like that for absolute measurements but to watch a varying voltage or resistance on blend motors, lambda sensors and the like, they can't be beaten (other than by a scope......).
No they're not. The one on the right hiding in the gloom looked to be an early AVO but not with a wooden case and single scale. My 8 still gets used occasionally, there are times when you can't beat a big moving needle over a digital display.