But that one is green?

Viscous couplings don't usually just fail though, they need some abuse to kill them. They also cause the car to hop around when manoeuvring on full lock at low speeds as the front wheels are scrabbling for grip. So even someone not used to a P38 would know something isn't right.

Never known a diff to just break, get very noisy yes, but not stop you from driving. I'd say your noise is more likely to be a propshaft UJ, possibly one that got damaged with the strain on it from the diff failure. That would also make it pull one way or another if the UJ has seized or broken up. Don't drive it until you've got underneath and had a good look.

Book symbol on the display means it has detected a fault so has shut down whatever it is that has caused the fault. So if you can't change temperature, it has detected a fault with a blend motor, if the fans aren't running, it has detected a fault with a fan and so on. It does need plugging in to a Nanocom, Testbook or whatever to see what the fault is. It might be worth paying the £40 to get your local man to plug it in, check the faults and while he's in there turn off passive immobilisation to stop you from having to use the EKA all the time.

If you can do the work yourself, parts are dirt cheap, even good ones (not Br*tpart), and they are easy enough to work on. There's a couple of people on here that freely admitted they'd never worked on a car in their lives that have worked their way through the problems and are now enjoying driving their cars.

But he said he's looked at the rotor arm??? If it's a P38, it ain't got one (and the HT leads I linked to above would be the wrong ones).

Here you go, all the Impco spare parts you could possibly need http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/?pa_brand=impco&widget_search=yes or you could, as I said in the other thread, just sling the Impco and bung a single point system on instead. This http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-kits/single-point-closed-loop-induction-system-petrol-injected/ would do the job nicely.

Of course, your third option would be to get it to Simon and see what the actual problem is, at least then if it can be saved and won't cost too much, you'll know what bits to change.

For £700 you could replace the Impco with a singlepoint system the same as I run on mine, twice......

93 means it is a Classic so would have originally had a 3.9 or 4.2 (if LWB) but I know a few people have fitted 4.6 motors and used the front cover from the original engine to retain the distributor. HT leads aren't that expensive, you could try a set of these http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/lead-high-performance-9498-hls101xp-p-4106.html and while you are at it, treat it to one of these http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/distributor-rotor-facet-stc1857f-p-4107.html.

Yes but are they intended to come apart? I assume they must, even if the end bit is pressed on, or they'd never be able to get the spring in there.

I suspect a 3D printed part in plastic wouldn't last that long but if someone, like Clive, has a small lathe, it should be relatively easy to make the pointy bit (assuming that comes off the rest of it) in brass or alloy.

Impco is an American system designed for big V8 engines with a hoofing great 4 barrel carb sitting on top of them. Like everything American it is absolutely wonderful and far superior to anything designed anywhere else in the world, to Americans, but to the rest of the civilised world it's old technology, very expensive to buy spares and not particularly good at that.

There is some truth in the stuff you've found in as much as LPG does need a healthy ignition system and any weaknesses will show up on LPG before they show up on petrol. However, most of what he is talking about relates to a distributor system such as on a RR Classic and not the system we've got on a P38. Which do you have? However, even if the ignition system is on it's last legs and is arcing and sparking in all the wrong places, if it will run on petrol it will still run, albeit worse, on LPG. Ignition spares, particularly rotor arms, for the Classic distributor are notoriously poor quality these days(since Lucas became part of one of the other spares companies) with even brand new LR sources ones failing in a matter of weeks. They break down so the spark doesn't go from the centre to the tab on the end and on to the correct HT lead but track down the outside of the rotor arm body to the distributor spindle. Making sure the rotor arm is spotlessly clean is one short term fix but often an old well worn rotor arm will work better than a brand new one.

As OB says, an air lock in the vaporiser will cause a problem but I don't think the Impco system is even sophisticated enough to use a temperature sensor so it wouldn't stop it from starting, particularly not on petrol.

300 pages? If it's even half reasonable once I start reading something I don't stop until I've finished it so I'd have no time for anything else (like work, eating, sleeping, etc).

Thought you said there was no such thing as a 2002 Autobiography? Looks like it doesn't need much although I'm not sure the blue carpet to match the exterior goes with the green wood. I know it is meant to be like that but it looks like someone with no sense of colour co-ordination has been doing a bit of updating.

127,000 miles, 14 previous owners? That's 9,000 miles per owner what does that tell you? What's with the blacked out inner rear lights? Not to mention the black painted L322 wheels, the seat that looks scabby even in a dodgy phone pic and the fact that he coulodn't even be bothered to wash it before taking the pictures so there's cobwebs all over it. Not with somebody else's bargepole......

It actually sounds a bit too good to break to me. But, it certainly sounds like the engine would be good enough.

If it's this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-4-0-4-6-Thor-Multi-Point-LPG-Gas-Kit-Full-Set-Up-99-02-Prins/302412202111, I'm not sure where Prins came from. It's a King ECU and OMVL injectors but I can't make out what the reducer is from the pictures but it looks like it may well be OMVL too. So nowt Prins about it at all. Although it is the same seller that sent me different coloured seats to the ones shown in the picture on the ad and sent you an Immaculate bonnet that wasn't......

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

There's a good clean looking Prins system with a King ecu on ebay. £350

Huh? It's a King system then. A Prins will have the Prins ECU and reducer (along with the dodgy external injector emulator that most of them use) and Keihin injectors. A king system will have a King ECU with whatever reducer and injectors the original installer chose to fit.

But a secondhand kit is worth at best, half of that when you can buy brand new for less http://www.lpgshop.co.uk/8cyl-mini-kit-king-obd-omvl-hp-omvl-rail/

Avoid Prins and BRC for the same reasons your Landi isn't too clever. Very limited injector options (only the ones that come with it) and, limited software availability (if at all in the case of Prins).

Rcutler wrote:

OK, So i guess then its not worth doing then.

Yes it definitely is. In the BeCM there are settings for Immobilisation Enabled/Disabled setting that to Disabled is a good thing and means you don't have to wear out the key switch and door lock constantly entering the EKA code. The other setting is EKA Enabled/Disabled which is the one you do not want to disable. Every P38 I plug my Nano into, including all 3 of mine, gets Passive Immobilisation turned off unless the owner has any particular reason for wanting it left on (and nobody has yet)

Rcutler wrote:

Can Timpsons make a blade key that will let me into the car and start it with the EKA code? I could then send my key off for repair. Or are there still electrics in the key that are needed? Can people actually fix these key or is a waste of time.

I've got a blank key blade that came with a replacement case I bought. My local Timsons couldn't do it, I had to go to a specialist locksmith. They could do it but couldn't do it while I waited. They had to find the profile from my existing key and then program their computer to cut the blank (so you get a perfect key and not a replica of your worn key). They had a problem finding the profile as it was under BMW and not Land Rover. A key blade on it's own will unlock the car and allow you to enter the EKA code, none of the electronics are needed. Fobfix could repair them but a couple of people have had problems with them just recently so it's probably better to bite the bullet and get a new one.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

Gilbert has had recent experience with passive immobilisation being turned off. He's your man!

The problem I had was that the key switch in the latch had failed (or at least the wire to it had) so unlocking with the key blade didn't tell the BeCM that I'd unlocked it with the key, it thought I'd unlocked it by breaking a window and lifting the button up. It was when EKA had been turned off in the BeCM that it got really complicated as the immobiliser was set (from previously locking it), the fob had lost sync as the battery had gone flat, I'd unlocked it with the key blade so the immobiliser was set and as EKA had been disabled the only way to turn it off was with the fob. But as the fob can't be synced while the system is in the alarmed state, I was pretty much stuffed. So disabling EKA in the BeCM doesn't mean you don't need to enter it, it means that it doesn't ask for it.

Disabling passive immobilisation stops the car re-immobilising itself if you unlock it but don't start the car within a set time (30 seconds or 1 minute, don't recall off the top of my head). In that case you unlock the car, load the boot with shopping, dogs, kids, dead bodies or whatever, and when you go to start it, the dash comes up with Engine Immobilised, Press Remote of Enter Code. With passive immobilisation turned off it doesn't matter how long you leave it before unlocking the car and starting it, it will still start. So once turned off, simply unlocking the car will turn off the immobiliser without it being necessary to enter the EKA code. But, the central locking will still work just as it should, so unlocking with the key blade will still unlock all the doors and locking will lock them all too. Similarly, locking with the key blade will set the immobiliser too so should someone get into the car other than by unlocking with the key blade, they still won't be able to start it.

I've got one of those too, it must be at least 35 years old and still half full. I must admit, I have used it on EAS lines in the past (as well as injector O rings, coolant hoses and anything else rubbery that needed a bit of lube) but would use the silicone grease I bought for fitting ABS sensors now I've got it.