I'm of the opinion that you have more than one fault. The EAS beep and light going out is caused by a poor connection between the EAS ECU under the passenger seat and the light display on the dash. That goes through the connector in the LH footwell. The dancing locks is caused by iffy microswitches in one of the front door latches, the one that isn't locking itself usually. The rear lights does sound to be moisture related but if it was in the BeCM, the power board is on the top, the logic board is at the bottom so if you have water getting to the BeCM it would have died by now as the logic board drowned. I still think you are looking at water getting into the trailer socket and shorting things out there. Disconnecting the white plugs will disconnect the feed to the trailer socket and isolate that.

For the other faults, the footwell connectors can be removed and the wires soldered and heat shrinked. They are only needed when the car is assembled at the factory so aren't needed once it's put together. There's a similar one in the RH footwell that also suffers from damp so it's worth doing them both.

As for the door locks, Marty does exchange refurbished latches at a very favourable price.

+1 on avoiding a garage if at all possible. Most don't understand electrics, particularly on a P38, and all you'll do is end up spending money for someone to tell you they can't fix the problem (or that you need a new BeCM and wiring loom).

Just had another look at RAVE and the other common point on the rear lights is the connections to the trailer socket. Behind the RH rear light you should find a pair of white 8 way connectors which join a second set of wires from the BeCM to the trailer socket. Try unplugging that pair and see if that makes any difference.

The mention of the EAS light going out intermittently made me think it could be the multiway connector behind the LH footwell kick panel as the wiring for that goes through there. However, having had a look at the ETM in RAVE, it seems that the rear lights are fed directly from the BeCM without even a connector between the two. If the seat is coming out, have a look at the connections to the BeCM, but the rear lights come off different connectors for left and right. That could point to the one common thing, the BeCM.......

Once you get the pump running you'll probably find it still won't work. There's two non-return valves at the back that go non-return in both directions. I replaced one of those, the rear washer worked for about a week and then the other one failed.

They should heat up enough to start working just from the exhaust gases when given some welly, plenty of earlier injected cars only had one or two wire sensors. Is this just on gas or on petrol too?

No idea but I wouldn't just do one caliper on an axle I'd always do them in pairs. Sounds like you need to pull the other 3 apart.

Paintwork is pretty dire and the rust is coming through on the rear arches so I'd hold out for one in a bit better nick to use as a starting point. The spec of a Turner or V8 Dev engine is the same, the only difference is the price and I think V8 Dev are a bit cheaper. I went there as they are local and I could drop in and check on progress (and look at lots of shiny engine internal bits).

If it's running in open loop, it might not power them?

Rcutler wrote:

Also who buys a matt black car, they are a nightmare to keep clean.

Tell me about it, this is one that I had the pleasure of looking after for a couple of months last year while I put it through an IVA test and got it registered onto UK plates. Not a wrap either but ordered in that paint from the factory by a Russian with little taste. The interior was white leather. Yes, an absolute bastard to keep looking like that, one raindrop and it started to look dirty.

Although the Russian registered Audi RS7 (de-catted and chipped to 720 bhp) that came after this one was wrapped but with a clear wrap purely to protect the paintwork. You really had to look very closely to see the wrap and it was only really noticeable where a small piece of it had peeled off the front spoiler. The de-cat caused me a lot of grief when it came to getting it through the emissions test. Fortunately the cats were in the boot when it was bought so was simply a case of fitting them for the test. Unfortunately, they sit between the back of the engine and the bulkhead....

Leave it connected or all you are doing is applying the earth to the other side of the switch. You need to let the ECU see the earth so it thinks the switch has been operated.

Coil springs? Oh dear. If the compressor is still there then chances are the valve block is too as it's bolted to the top of it. No point in removing the EAS ECU, you'd only have to put it back when you see the light. Once you get the opportunity to drive one on EAS, you'll know you just have to......

My god that's horrible......

It isn't completely dead as it can still put the transfer box into neutral but it definitely sounds like it isn't responding to the switch. There'a few on eBay for around a tenner.

The IGG100030 is the auto gearbox controller and the other one is the transfer box ECU. If earthing the Purple/Green does nothing, that suggests it has died.

If you don't like the contrasting piping, you can always sit in the left rear seat instead as that doesn't have it. Only has 3 bars compared with the 5 on the other seats too.....

Should have and somebody has nicked your sub.......

I've got a spare little spinny thing kicking around somewhere if you get stuck. That one is the aspirator temperature and shows you the temperature in the car. If it thinks that is -38 degrees the heater will be going flat out all the time trying to warm it up. The heater core temperature sensor is the one that should be clipped to the pipe going into the heater matrix. They do fall off (small tie wraps are the usual answer) but even then would be showing ambient temperature so if that is showing -38 it is dead or disconnected.

But the weekend is only just starting, you've got two whole days in front of you for many more things to go wrong.......

Still free on the RSW website even if it is well hidden and not accessible from the menu http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 and there's even instructions on how to make the cable rather than buying one for £20 or so from eBay http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/p38a-eas-unlock-videos/167-range-rover-p38a-making-the-eas-serial-cable although it will cost you a bit for a plug https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connectors/8010991/ or https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/262782690314 unless you have one kicking around from a dead OBD reader.

davew wrote:

They forgot to add "has the special fade-to-grey plastic grille option" though..

Genuine question; What is it about a 'Limited Edition' that makes them think it is so valuable; Contrasting Piping on the seats maybe ??

I showed it to my missus and her comment was that it looks identical to the SE sitting on the driveway (which I really must do something with). Same colour, same wheels, Lightstone interior where mine is grey but other than that, the only real difference is mine doesn't have the faded grey grille. I'm not even sure it is a Limited Edition of any sort anyway, looks like a bog standard '98 HSE to me.