Not had quite as much here (yet, we're due for the worst on Saturday) but it's been a little boring really. I blame Clive for recommending the Vredenstein Quadtrac tyres, they certainly stick. Couldn't even get the ABS to kick in.......
You could..... But I doubt it's MoT approved. There are digital ones out there but it seems that the old wooden box with a scale on it are still approved as I know two test stations that still use them.
My guy just sits on it the floor in the passenger footwell. Amusing thing when his newly qualified tester did the Ascot was that he'd just driven it off the ramps having had it jacked up on the chassis with the wheels dangling. That had made the EAS think it had grounded itself so had put the suspension to extended height. Damn near fell over when he hit the brakes as the centre of gravity was so high. He tested mine a couple of weeks later, went through the test, drove out in preparation of doing the brake test and asked me how to get it down off stilts so he didn't get seasick this time.
and wrote:
the brakes are ok very good readings on the mot so all good for now
Good readings? How did they test them? They should be done with the deccelerometer (thrash across the yard and stomp on the pedal) and that doesn't give any readings, just not good, good and scrape the tester off the inside of the windscreen. To get readings, actual numbers, they would need to test them on the rolling road tester which isn't good on a permanent 4 wheel drive vehicle.
The GEMS one is a brittle plastic pipe with a short length of hose on each end. As the parts list shows it as Hose Assembly (rather than just hose) I thought it was the same.
The cable I sent you has one of these https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/118/category/26#gallery-3 on the end which goes on the battery and the other end goes to the fusebox. The cable you have that goes to the starter has a strange looking version of that on the end. That needs cutting (or melting as it is made of lead) off and a ring terminal fitting instead. This ring terminal and the other one (marked on the picture above as the extra one for a diesel) then go under the nut on the bolt that clamps it onto the battery.
Teri. The problem is that if you order the cable Marty gave you the part number for, it will be the same as the one I sent you. What you need to do is find someone that can cut the battery terminal off the cable you have and fit one of these https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/155/category/32#gallery-9 on the end instead. Then it can be fitted the same as all the others.
Is it the brittle plastic pipe that can easily crack on a Thor the same as on a GEMS? I replaced the whole run with 8mm ID silicon hose on mine.
I've had to fill up three times over the weekend and the only one I found out was one in Luton (after dropping a friend off at the airport), but another one less than a couple of miles away had supplies. The services on the A1(M) have LPG too but all of these are Shell and I believe it's mainly the Flogas supplied ones that are out.
Those discounts are the standard ones offered on the website anyway. Colin did offer a further 20% discount to members on here, see post 19 here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/627-which-diagnostic-is-appropriate
Whatever you have at the moment is the one to go for and if you do change in the future, it's around £50 for the licence for the extra engine. So you'd want the diesel version now but if/when you change to a V8 then you just pay the extra then and it will then cover both. Bear in mind though that although it won't do the engine on one that you don't have the licence for, it will do everything else. So mine will only do GEMS engines but will do the BeCM, HEVAC, EAS, ABS, etc on all versions of P38.
The price has gone up due to the value of the pound against the Euro (as they come from Cyprus). I got mine when the exchange rate was much better and it was something like £310.
OB's memory is correct, I did try one a few months back. They are 3D printed parts and needed an awful lot of fettling to get everything to slide as it should but even then only lasted for 2 or 3 operations before breaking. In saying that, the cables weren't in brilliant condition either and that may have put extra strain on things. I got a complete cassette and fitted that instead. Once you've got the glass out you will be able to see the broken part, set it so that it holds the rear of the sunroof up and put the glass back in. Depending on what actual part has broken, I might have the original part still on the remains of my cassette but otherwise you will be better off swapping the whole lot. It's a 3 person job though, 2 to hold it in place while the third person puts the bolts in.
I suspect it's down to the cold weather and people needing LPG for home heating. I had to wait over a week for a delivery of heating oil despite phoning two days after placing the order and telling them I'd run out. They couldn't bring the delivery forward as demand was so high. I would think it's much the same with LPG, they make more profit on home heating supplies than garage forecourt sales so prioritise those.
davew wrote:
but I really wonder what he/they think RRnet is actually for....?
It's his own personal site, he even lists www.rangerovers.net as his website on a few profile sites. I once posted that I had a spare ABS pressure switch in my garage if it would be of any use to someone on there who was having trouble and suspected the switch. That got me a weeks ban because items for sale should be in the For Sale forum yet he's done exactly the same thing here http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/310897-source-overhauled-valve-blocks.html, but as it's his site he can.
Every time I've tried to remove a rear height sensor, I've had to resort to the angle grinder. Wickes do some very useful 1mm thick cutting blades.....
Ooooh, not a good idea. He doesn't like people sending him emails to his personal email address (see post 12 here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/189-looks-like-rrtoadhall-doesn-t-like-competition). Although if it is a personal email address why isn't it his name and not his Rangerovers.net username?
But, on the upside, it's encouraging more of the knowledgable users onto here and leaving the rednecks over there.
It's a bit of a funny one. Sometimes a height sensor dead spot will give a soft fault so the yellow light on the dash comes on, all 4 height lights come on and it will pump up to maximum height, other times it comes up as a hard fault so it drops to the bumpstops. Soft fault doesn't always need a reset, simply switching off and restarting is enough to clear it but only sometimes. Hard fault will always need a reset.
Rears can be swapped side to side which would move the dead spot to a different height, hopefully one that it doesn't sit at. Later front's (VIN VA onwards) can also be swapped but earlier ones are handed so can't be.
Aragorn wrote:
As a random aside, a few weeks back i was towing a trailer home in the snow, and randomly got an EAS Fault out the blue shortly after leaving the mother in laws. First time its ever had a fault, and i was expecting the worst, bumpstops etc while towing wasnt going to be pleasant...
However all it did was light up the four lights on the height button... No "35mph" warning or deflate to the bump stops, it just sat where it was. I drove a short distance to find a safe place to stop and got nanocom out (luckily it was in the glovebox), it said front right height sensor had some issue. Reset the code and everything returned to normal and its not come back.
That's the classic dead spot on a height sensor fault, in your case, front right. You obviously hit it at just the right spot.
Quite a few have had the odd one week ban (more than once in some cases) but it's only a very small number of us distinguished members that have managed a lifetime ban. The rest of you just aren't trying hard enough.......
On the Nano you have to open a valve for a corner and then open the inlet or outlet valve too which makes a corner go up or down. What was the actual fault you had when it dropped? My suspicion would be a height sensor with a dead spot on it's travel. If it sits at that spot for more than 30 seconds, it will go into hard fault. The stored fault will tell you which one. If you lock it at a different height to where it was when it faulted (so, if on a motorway I would suspect motorway height, so lock it in normal) and it doesn't do it, that will narrow it down.
If you have a Nano, why didn't you just plug it in and reset it as soon as the fault occurred rather than have to drive on the bumpstops?