If I'm reading the graph correctly, it looks like at idle the gas injection time is higher than the petrol injection time, which is as it should be (and confirmed by the second screenshot). However, as soon as you give it some throttle, the petrol times (purple line) are higher than the gas times (grey line). They should be between 1.2 and 1.5 times the petrol times which suggest the fuelling map is way out. Just to confuse things further, the lambda doesn't appear to be switching properly. When given some throttle is appears to go rich (1.0V lambda output), which doesn't follow with the injection times. Does the Tartarini software have an autocal feature? It might be worth saving your existing settings, in case it makes it worse, and doing an autocal if you can.

Post the graph if you can, that might help to identify what it is doing (depending on what it is showing of course)..

All of my cars have a big hole in the bottom for the pipes from the LPG tank to pass through. No idea if the original hole was smaller and it's been enlarged or if there wasn't one and ones been drilled/cut out. Can't think of anyone local that has a car not running on LPG so can't even have a look for you.

davew wrote:

Worse(!) than that though he seems to have replaced the EAS bags and then converted to SPRINGS ?!

The answer to that is at the top of this page......

As well as the supply to the trailer socket, that fuse supplies, the radio, aerial amp, HEVAC and cigarette lighter socket. It is switched by a relay in the BeCM and I doubt the relay is rated at less than the fuse so even if you do overload it, the fuse should pop before you do any damage. What does the fridge draw?

The White/Orange wire comes off fuse 8 at the BeCM which is a 30A fuse and it's switched by a relay within the BeCM itself, so you may as well just use that for the fridge if you want it only powered when the engine is running. Or, use that to power a relay and switch the permanent live from the Pink/Orange if you are concerned that the current draw may be too much. The Pink/Orange is fused at 20A but as it also supplies other items, RAVE says that it is capable of supplying 10A to the trailer socket.

If you look behind the LH rear light cluster you'll find an unused 4 way connector. That has permanent live, ignition switched live, ground and reversing lights on it. I've used it to pick up power for a pair of cigarette lighter style sockets in the boot for keeping stuff charged up.

Colours are:
White/Orange, Ignition switched live
Green/Brown, Reversing lights
Pink/Orange, Permanent live
Black, Ground

Air con drains block up too, from under the car there are two conical shaped bits of rubber, one either side of the gearbox. Give them a squeeze to get a dollop of mud, water and dead leaves up your sleeve. Other cause of damp in the drivers footwell is leaking heater core O rings. Do you have to keep topping the coolant up?

Glad you got the lights sorted though. You're getting there.

If one is giving a weak signal, all it needs is resetting. Give all 4 a gentle tap with a mallet and see if that cures it. One car I worked on was giving a fault and checking with the Nanocom showed that all were giving an output but one was slower to react than the others, a swift clout sorted it.

Chances are the cruise control pipe to the brake pedal is leaking. Pull it off the cruise actuator and try blowing down it. If you can blow down it, there's the problem. 8mm ID pipe needed, my local motor factors do a nice high temperature plastic pipe that fits perfectly.

As for the brakes, did you fit the anti rattle shims and springs when you changed the pads and what pads did you fit?

For pressure to fill all 4 corners you would need to have all 4 solenoids operated as well as the inlet solenoid. None of these should be operated with a door open and even if it wasn't registering the door being open, it should still only rise to normal height. The only thing I can think is that you've cocked up the valve block somehow.

Ah, I often wondered how much of a difference those weights make and after driving a car where one had been left off, they do make a hell of a difference. What do you mean by swapping the diffs round?

On EAS Unlock, clicking the button that doesn't look like a button marked Faults, clears the list. Then if you read faults again it will show you the current ones. If you go into the Heights tab, you can manually click each corner up and down. If you click one corner and don't hear the relevant solenoid operate, that is your problem.

What T pieces?

Martyuk wrote:

Though the easiest solution is probably to chop the old battery terminal off, and replace it with one which has a threaded stud on it, and then crimp a new ring terminal onto the +ve cable that goes to the starter/alternator.

That was my thought, it should be possible to remove the existing terminal with a blowlamp and solder a new ring terminal onto the end. Then it can be fitted to a standard battery terminal the same as all the other cars.

Martyuk wrote:>

Any (decent) auto electrician should be able to crimp a terminal on without much trouble.

Unfortunately, Teri is in France and the terms decent and electrician do not appear in the French language......

Hi Teri. I'll add the picture so people know what you are talking about.

Every battery cable I have seen has the battery terminal on the main feed to the fusebox. I've sent her a spare I had but unfortunately it can't be fitted as hers has the terminal on the feed to the starter like this:

The lack of a bolt is the main problem as the terminal can't be firmly attached to the battery. When I last saw the car, it was there so I suspect the bodgers at NorAuto (think a French version of Halfords only much worse) have lost it when they fitted a new battery.

Question is, is this a normal arrangement on a later diesel? It would make sense to have the best connection going to the starter but it's different to all the others I've come across.

I think you'll find that the 4 holes aren't equidistant so they can only go on in two ways. They always say to mark them so they go back on in the same position as they came off but if they've been off before, you've no way of knowing that they were before. I don't think it's too critical, the diff and transfer box have been changed so you can't put them as they were before anyway. As long as the sliding joint is at the transfer case end and all the bolts are tight, it has got to be an improvement.

Also check the alignment of the UJ's. They should be at an angle and original props had one spline missing so they could only go together correctly, aftermarket ones don't so can be fitted together at any alignment. I bought a new one and found the UJ's were in line so split it and put it as it should be. As the P38 ones can't be changed there is no mention of it in RAVE but there is in the version for the Classic. See below.

There's a switch under the gear lever that operates when you push the lever across to the low side. It is this switch that has the Purple/Green wire on one side and a Black wire on the other.

That means either the switch isn't doing anything cuz it's broke or the wire between the switch and the ECU has a break in it somewhere. There's no connectors to go green and hairy between the switch and the ECU so it's a break in the wire, the switch itself or the earth connection on the other side of the switch (on the black wire).