One thing you could try to confirm it, is to slacken off the outlet from the filter to the reducer and try getting it to switch over. If you get a blast of gas then both solenoids are opening and allowing it through but I suspect you won't.

The filter is just a filter so you should be able to blow through it. A cracked coil on the solenoid is a sure sign it has gone internally short circuit and is not at all well. It may still be capable of doing something but not a lot. Best bet is going to be to replace the filter/shut off valve complete.

The solenoid has to be energised for it to open but if you are doing that and you still can't blow through it, there's your problem. Replacement can be got from here http://tinleytech.co.uk/product-category/lpg-parts/filtershut-off/lpg-shut-off-valve/?widget_search=yes

Little nut that holds the coil in place. Take that off, slide the coil off and you will see a hex at the base of the brass bit that the col fits over. The plunger is inside that. To remove the filter, you undo the bolt in the middle of the shiny plate and the filter element is under that. With both removed you will be able to clean it all out. Another word of advice, wear latex gloves. Anything that is in there will be what is known as Heavy Ends. It is a lubricant that is suspended in the liquefied gas and is there to lubricate the delivery pumps. It is a sort of dark brown gloopy stuff and absolutely stinks. If you get it on your hands you will still be able to smell it a week later.

DO NOT just slacken off the bolt holding the plate without releasing the gas pressure first. The plate may survive but the noise will make you think someone has just fired a shotgun at you. I did it on my first LPG car (an old Saab) and I must have jumped 2 feet in the air when the seal on the O ring let go. With the ignition switched off, slacken off the inlet union to allow the gas in the pipe to escape first so there is no pressure left in there.

One other possibility is that you've clouted the pipe between the tank and front end and squashed it flat so it restricts the amount of gas that can get through.

I know he has but he's two and a half hours away. I was just curious if there was any other way. I've got a blank key blade that came with a replacement case I bought once and have been meaning to get that cut. At least then I would be able to get into the car even if I would have to enter the EKA with the key or Nano to start it.

You probably missed that it had rolled over to a second page. Yes, the gas in the tank is a liquid under pressure. The solenoids open and allow it through to the reducer where it expands into vapour and the pressure is regulated down to somewhere in the region of 1.2 - 1.5 bar. That vapour at constant pressure is fed to the injectors which open to allow gas into the inlet manifold. Tank solenoid will open with a healthy clank as it is attached to a big metal tank which amplifies the noise, reducer solenoid will be quieter as you are just hearing a steel plunger moving. However, t should still make a healthy sounding click.

Out of curiosity, is there any other way of finding out the key number? I've only ever had one key for my white one but the label fell off years ago and as it doesn't have memory seats I can't see what position it sets the seat at to see what number it is. Or would it be a case that if I ordered another key and got a number 1, I'd only know if I'd got 2 number 1's if they wouldn't both sync at the same time?

I can understand diesel being near the top of the tree as it seems to be being forced out in the UK, France, Germany and Switzerland but it seems really odd that LPG is considered worst when t pollutes less than petrol. Because my car is on LPG I got a Class1 vignette for Paris,Lyon and Grenoble whereas it would have been Class 3 on petrol (and diesels are Class 4 and 5). Class 1 being only 1 level down from electric and hybrids which are Class 0. But, your Government have made the decision and there isn't a lot you can do about it. Maybe it's the cheaper cost of LPG that is behind it, much the same as the reason the tax on diesel went up over here a few years ago. Diesel cars use less fuel so as diesel became more popular the Government got less income from the tax on the fuel, so they put the tax up. It was only the haulage companies that got the retail price down to almost the same as petrol because they argued it was hitting the cost of everything.

I'll be about 6 miles inland from Nice from 2nd to 9th September so we'll meet up for that beer if you get yourself down there. There's another P38 owner (MikeinFrance) who lives about 10 miles from where i will be, so maybe we could both meet you and make you really jealous.......

If you've got a friendly MoT test station, call in there and set them up on the beam tester. Assuming the ones you got are the same, or similar to those OB bought, they need to be properly alinged so they give the correct beam pattern. Bodywork looks shiny though.....

Thought you'd forgotten when I got home and saw it was still there, then noticed most of it was still there except the white nylon bit was missing.

Anyway, tonight's update (after getting home from attacking Mother's garden with petrol powered machinery). Postman delivered a sunroof motor this morning so I went out there to fit it. First off it did nothing when connected to the dangling plug and the button pressed. Then realised I had told the BeCM that it didn't have a sunroof to stop it whinging at me that it wasn't set. Enabled it and had another go. Motor turned when I pressed the button so attempted to fit it. To start with it wouldn't slot into place as the cables had moved and the ends that fit into slots in the motor housing didn't line up. Adjusted them so it slotted in then found that the supplied fixing screws were thinner than the holes they were supposed to fit in. Eventually found some screws that were a) thin enough to go through the mountings and b) thick enough to bite in the holes they should go in. Motor fitted and time for a test It made all the right grunting noises but then stopped. Sunroof didn't move not even with a bit of assistance, so it looks like it has got to come out so I can see what has jammed the mechanism. Good job took notice when Marty was whipping them out at Summer Camp.

Which reminds me. My set of Torx bits is complete, the only thing is, the T20 bit is longer than all the others. So someone has a short T20 in their set.....

Was going to reply on the dark side but figured OB would point you over here anyway. Like you, I run my P38 every day and have done for the last 7 years. For the first 2 I didn't trust it as far as I could throw it but once you get stuff sorted, as long as you do it right, it stays sorted. Use it, enjoy it and sooner or later you'll buy another because they are very additive........

Sorry mate, wrong forum. Not that it would help anyway......

Think what it would stand you at if you bought it and imported it!!!

No problem, just let me know when.

I'm surprised the tax is so much higher on LPG in Holland when you look at the price of the fuel. In Holland LPG is around 0.75 Euro a litre, so much the same as here (if not slightly more) whereas a couple of miles down the road in Belgium, it's half that. So in Holland you convert a car to LPG, save only a small amount on fuel costs but pay more in tax. Seems very odd and makes you wonder why LPG is as common there as it is, most LPG systems up until recently were made in either Italy or Holland.

Don't think you can tell which fob you have although if it can be done, Marty is your man. The key doesn't need programming, just syncing which you can do yourself (on a 2002 it should do it automatically when you put it in the ignition) and the last time anyone got one through a Land Rover main agent, it was something like £148. Apparently, LR can only supply key 1 these days so you may end up with 2 identical ones. OK unless you want to use them to control the memory seats for two different people.

Too late, Morat spotted it already and posted a link to it. No, I'll leave that one to someone else. MoT fail points are pretty insignificant, it's the chequebook on the HEVAC, the Impco LPG system (bloody expensive for bits if it needs any) and all the other things it will need that would take the time. I'll only buy one that I'd actually want to keep and that one just doesn't do anything for me for some reason.

I know they've got better, all my company vehicles for over 20 years have been diesels so I speak from experience. Modern ones do have a reasonable power delivery but still run out of puff when you try to get them to rev and a car engine with a red line at 5,000 rpm is just wrong in my opinion. I know the P38 isn't a revvy engine but it's a V8 so makes up for it, a 4 or 6 really needs to be able to be able to scream up to 7 or 8 thousand if not higher. Compare a diesel with the power delivery of a Toyota VVTi, a Honda VTec or any modern performance engine or the sound made by an Audi RS, a V8 Vantage or an AMG Merc and they really can't compare.

and they stink The VAG TDI ones seem worse, Try sitting on a motorcycle in traffic with the exhaust fumes from one of them wafting up inside your crash helmet and you'll know what I mean......

That's the one I've got going spare...... Simple enough to change just one of them too.