It's linear from idle (about 0.5-0.7V) up to wide open throttle at just short of 5.0V. I've done it and it works, believe me.

Didn't have any (other than the one at the Latvian border taken last year that has already been posted) so just nipped out and got a couple.

Olive trees and the house where we are staying that can just be seen lurking behind

and just along the track with Nice in the background. Nice airport is the bit on the far right sticking out into the sea.

It may be slightly overcast today but it's still bloody hot.....

I always thought the dangly wicks were to prevent a build up of static to stop travel sickness. Doubt they worked for either purpose......

They share an ignition switched supply. Fuse 17 powers the brake lights, the HEVAC display and EAS display. Although the diagrams don't show it as having anything to do with the radio, I found that with an intermittent connection my radio would go off as well as everything else on that supply. It comes off the only connector on the back of the BeCM (accessed from the rear footwell) and is on a white wire at one corner of the connector. You'll see which one it is, it's the one that is starting to look burnt. If the HEVAC display dims slightly when you put your foot on the brake pedal, that connection is getting warm.

Clean it off and see if you can see where it is leaking from. It's not unknown for a weep to come out of a weak point in the weld on the axle casing itself.

Course it will, you only need to insulate the bits of wire from ground and each other. If you were really brave you could leave them as a three dimensional birdsnest but I wouldn't advise it.

Make one you lazy bastard, it's only a plate with three holes drilled in it.....

Yup, you got it.

You've got it right. If they can't do the reset, your easiest option is, as I suggested earlier, to enlarge the mounting holes so you can turn the TPS slightly. That way you can get the voltage back into the correct operating window.

Skipping in reverse? I would have expected the wear to have been on the side of the chain that is under stress when going forwards.

Key in 'ole, turn to lock and hold there, press lock on the fob and hold until the LED starts to flash faster, release button on fob, tunr key back to centre. Then do the same with unlock.

No, or it may plug in but there won't be a connection if you have the two ends with the central socket rather than the pin. It's the same as the reversed polarity SMA connectors used on Wi-Fi adapters so you can't plug a high gain aerial onto them. The plugs look the same but if you look in the centre of the connector you'll see either a socket or a pin. So SMB and MCX would appear to the same except the polarity is reversed on one of them.

It's not important just mildly annoying. With it parked 15 feet or so from a wall, the beam cut off from the RH light is about an inch lower that that of the LH light. Easily within spec for the MoT just not perfectly symmetrical. Maybe I should just reverse into the parking space so I don't notice it.....

I'm not familiar with an MCX connector so just Googled it to have a look. Seems that MCX and SMB are the same dimensions but are reversed polarity so one has the pin in the plug and the other has it in the socket. I would have thought that a DAB aerial connection would be standard. I've got the same aerial on my works van and on Dina's Merc, both using a Sonichi DAB tuner (http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/dab-car-stereos/sonichi-s100-digital-radio-adapter) and another on the P38 which used to have a Pioneer DAB radio and now has a Kenwood. The aerial has plugged straight into all of them.so I suspect it will be the same on your tuner.

DON'T ever cut and try to join RF coax without some sort of constant impedance connector. You'll lose the best part of 1dB of signal on a connector so with an unscreened soldered joint there's no telling how much you will lose.

Yeah, but without a workshop to get things in and give them a good fettling on the bench, I'd probably end up with a light held in with gaffer tape so it would be wise to leave that job until I'm back home. But when I'm back home, I've got the Ascot to finish off and then get stuck in to the SE as I really do need to do something with that so the headlight will wait until next time I'm stuck for something to do

That looks like a far more productive way of spending the day. I was a little concerned at the number of packets with Britpart on them until I realised that is just the replacement bolts and you wouldn't think they could get too much wrong with them. Although I did find that a Britpart hub nut has a 36mm hex but the originals were only 32mm.......

I'll admit to suffering withdrawal and spent an hour this morning staring at things under the bonnet of mine to see if there was anything that needed attention. Having failed to find anything amiss under there, I've spent another hour reading bits of RAVE that I've never had need to read before. Still didn't find which adjuster does what on the headlights as my RH light is fractionally lower then the left and I was going to give that a tweak when it gets dark. All this sitting in the sun next to the pool drinking beer is beginning to get boring.

According to the parts listing the only colours are Ash Grey, Dark Granite, Light Stone Beige and Walnut so beige is going to be what everyone calls Lightstone.

They do the ones for the sub cover too http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/83051/5497/trim_clip_fir_tree_dark_stone_beige___p38_range_rover

Brit-car list them at 68p each http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/96002/5497/cover_screw_beige_rr_p38

I must admit, I didn't realise they existed until I got the Ascot as neither of my previous P38s had the screw covers on them.

No idea why they used a different keyway but the one you have is for a Freelander. Same part number for both the 1.8 4 pot K series and the KV6 but different to the P38 with a completely different engine. They both do the same job but I can't see the one you have giving a consistent reading. As long as the old one tests OK, put it back on.

super4 wrote:

Took my friend Gary down to the coast (5 miles) to a Spanish garage to collect his car and found surprise surprise that they reckon they can read and reset the P38.

Now there is a typically Mediterranean attitude. If they reckon they can do it, why didn't they spend 5 minutes proving it rather than booking you in for Wednesday? I would think they can read and reset any fault codes but so can a £30 generic code reader, unless they have something specialised they won't be able to reset the adaptive values. It'll be down to what you asked them, can they reset faults or can they reset adaptive values, the two things are very different.