If you don't know when the bags were last changed, change them. Even if they were changed shortly before you got the car, you don't know what was fitted, the Britpart ones only had one O ring so hardly ever sealed properly. When you do change them, make sure you trim a couple of mm off the end of the pipe and chamfer it with a pencil sharpener, then the groove made by the old O ring won't stop the new ones from leaking as they'll be bearing on a clean piece of pipe.

It could still be the block as you won't be able to tell where the leak is. If it is after the solenoids, it could affect individual corners.

Unless you know the bags have been replaced fairly recently with genuine Dunlops, you could be looking at a full set. Otherwise, it's the valve block. Time for the Fairy Liquid.

Obviously not.....

It's awfully quiet tonight, has the forum broken?

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

Did you apply the sticker of the bull yourself? Or did it come attached to the battery?

Attached to the battery, it's the logo for Banner Batteries (https://www.bannerbatterien.com/en-gb/Home) it would seem. Bought from my local motor factors before everyone started recommending the ginormous one although I suspect it wouldn't fit on mine as the LPG controller is bolted to the inner wing next to the battery.

Sloth wrote:

Lest we not forget the sight of Marty's engine bay ;) sorry mate!

Yeah but look how long that lasted with the track up to his workshop.....

Sloth wrote:

That radiator looks very interesting. As I have no viscous fan on my Thor, I'd been considering one of them too. My radiator is weeping from a corner... I reckon with a bit of creative plumbing and adaptation of the top house spout, I'd be able to fit one of them in.

You could either go for creative plumbing or a bit of TIG welding. The only difference between a GEMS and Thor rad is the position of the top hose spout. When I first got mine it had a Thor rad in it and a top hose that ran over the top of the fan shroud to the opposite side of the rad. If you look at the second picture, you can see where whoever did it had heated and moulded a smooth edge on the shroud so it didn't cut into the hose.

Hmm, that's very true. But I think they must do. Every car I've ever bought has been dirty......

You may be the one that cleans and polishes everything, I consider an engine bay is supposed to be dirty, especially one that clocked over 340,000 miles a few days ago. I'll admit I did wipe the slam panel with a wet cloth before taking the pictures but that was more to wipe the raindrops off it as it started pissing down within seconds of me starting the swap.

The R90E is no longer being made which is why TT say it is out of stock. I did find one place that still lists them but not cheap (as they obviously have some old stock and are cashing in). TT told me when I was in there recently that they are now recommending the BRC AT90E. i pointed out that it was only rated for 190 bhp and they said that was a mistake and showed me the spec sheet which says they are good for up to 225 bhp. When they next do an update to their site they will correct that and remove the R90E completely. The BRC is cheaper than an R90 and Simon reckons they are dead easy to set up needing hardly any tweaking too.

I've been busy too. Ordered on Monday afternoon, delivered yesterday (but had something else on last night or I'd have fitted it then) and fitted tonight. Absolutely beautifully made and a perfect fit too. After putting the coolant I drained out back in, I had to put about another 3 litres in to top it up and after taking it for a run, it'll still need topping up once it's cooled down.

Checked it with the Nano and running at between 86 and 89 degrees even after some welly in Sport mode compared with 91-93 with the old one in there so seems to do what it says it does. For £159 with free delivery, it isn't worth bothering with a standard one, especially if you do any heavy towing like I do.

dazer2000 wrote:

Correct, and strange mine does the bouncing locks bit in the heat as well, fine since July I can get the dog out the boot again now !

So there was your hint. It was warning you of impending doom during the summer, locking you out was just a matter of when not if.......

The biggest worry with bouncing locks is what happens if they decide to bounce and stayed locked when the car is running with the keys in the ignition and you not in the car? Then it is going to do it's self test on the cooling system and let you know how long it can sit at idle before boiling up.

and even if it was tested and found to be fine, how much longer is it going to last? Until I changed the switches in my drivers latch, I would get the dancing locks trick but only in hot weather so during the winter it didn't do it. Something else you are never going to find just by sticking a meter on the leads and checking the switches.

The only difference is the early ones have a socket on the latch itself, whereas the later ones have a flying lead with the socket on it. You can fit a later one on an early car but make sure you tie wrap the excess cable out of harms way but you'd have difficulty fitting an early one as the cable won't be long enough. Your best bet is to wait a couple of weeks until Marty is back home and get one of his refurbed ones with new switches rather than risking using one from a breaker that may be no better than what you already have.

Yes, on mine. It was coming out of the dipstick tube hole and running down the side of the block. The little bracket on the dipstick tube that is screwed to the edge of the rocker cover was a little too low on the tube so it wasn't pushed hard into the hole in the block allowing oil to come out from there. A dollop of RTV on the tube stopped it.

dazer2000 wrote:

Now, is there anyway that I can de activate the keycode EKA thing for future ? or is that wishfull thinking !

You can but don't. You can go into the BeCM settings with the Nanocom and change EKA Enabled to EKA Disabled. In theory that means that all you need to do if it is immobilised is lock and unlock it again. However, this assumes that all of the microswitches in the drivers door latch are working properly. If, as I discovered on my Ascot (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/688-help-now-i-m-really-in-the-sh-t), the key switch microswitch has failed for whatever reason, then you can't unlock it. Or you can unlock it mechanically but not electrically so it doesn't turn the immobiliser off. To add to it, if the keyswitch isn't working everything will appear to be normal while it is locking and unlocking on the fob, but after a flat or disconnected battery, the fob will have lost sync.

You shouldn't still have Keycode Lockout displayed after 40 minutes and while it is, you can't do anything. It should change to engine Immobilised, press remote or enter EKA after 10 minutes on an early car or 30 minutes on a later one.

Can't tell you which one has which colour plug but the cut off is up to VIN WA410481 and from XA410482. WA is a 98 model year and XA is 99 model year so if Flum has a grey plug on a 2000, it follows that the earlier one will be the black plug.

Like I said, keycode lockout only comes up when the battery is first connected and it will go out after 30 minutes on a later car to be replaced with the request for the EKA. While Keycode lockout is displayed it won't do anything, it won't accept the EKA, it won't let you connect with a Nanocom (or any other diagnostic), you just have to be patient.

No idea why it is flattening the battery if the BeCM is going to sleep unless you have another fault that is waking it up regularly or the battery is just not well. The battery on the Ascot went flat after standing for 10 days so I checked the current draw and once everything was sleeping it was drawing around 18mA. I swapped the Halfrauds battery that was on it for the Bosch one that was on the SE and it hasn't gone flat since. So unless you have a known decent battery, I'd be inclined to change it.

Nanocom prices do vary as Colin is based in Cyprus so they are priced in Euros. I bought mine pre-Brexit vote so the exchange rate was much better and it was a couple of quid over £300. Now we are down to damn near 1:1, that's made them pricey.

Orangebean wrote:

Only thing I've disabled/ snipped is Superlocking motors as I work around the doors.

Oh ye of little faith. My Superlocking is still enabled and I use it virtually every time I lock the car. Although we did discover at last years Summer Camp that it isn't working on the drivers door.

You say it won't accept the EKA, are you sure you're entering it correctly?

Marty, you're not the only one, I've only had to use the EKA about 3 times in 7 years and I've only got one key too (which everyone says is asking for trouble).

KeyCode Lockout will come up if it was locked when the battery went flat and has now been charged/changed. Depending on the year, you have to wait 10 or 30 minutes before it changes to Engine Immobilised, press remote of enter EKA code. If the battery has gone flat while it was locked, then you'll need to enter the EKA as the fob will have lost sync.

Thanks for the update, that would explain why in the past I'd seen a BeCM with a build date of 2026 or something equally ridiculous. That was obviously before I updated the Nanocom firmware.

BBS-GUY wrote:

Noting that if Key Fob syncronisation has been lost and the BeCM is in the alarmed state, having a failed Micro switch in the door lock prevents both re syncing the Key Fob and taking the BeCM out of its alarmed state.

Don't I know it! Fortunately I've got a pretty good understanding of how it all works and was able to sort it. Even without the info that OB posted, I would have got there eventually. Unlike a friend who bought a P38 with a faulty door ajar switch. That caused the central locking to not work, the dash to constantly tell him that the door was open, the air suspension to not work (resulting in the previous owner spending a fortune on replacement compressor and valve block) but no interior lights on as the previous owner had removed all the bulbs. He was gobsmacked when I told him everything was down to one little microswitch and a refurbed latch from Marty cured all the problems.