Tweaking the FIP to adjust the timing and take out the retarded timing caused by the stretched chain is the other fix. From what I've read, it involves turning the FIP towards the engine a smidgeon although that's about all I can tell you as I wouldn't know a FIP if one jumped out of the undergrowth and bit me.

Depends on the mileage you do as to whether it is worth it. Even with a self install, it's still a 4 figure outlay and are you going to get the benefit from it? In saying that, it is nice not even having to think about fuel cost when 200+ miles is under 40 quid.

I had someone notice my changeover switch last week and comment that they were surprised I run on LPG as the engine will be worn out in 50,000 miles. So I turned the ignition on and pointed out the odo showing 336,000 miles. There is so much bollox talked by people that know nothing about it. The LR V8 is an old generation engine so an old generation LPG system is going to work fine, Christ, I'm running a Leonardo single point on mine.

However, I did convert someone yesterday. While waiting for the Ascot to go into the workshop for the MoT and chatting to the owner of the garage and another customer. Customer also owned a Nissan Leaf EV but was saying that the lack of range meant it wouldn't suit everyone but when the oil runs out we'll have no alternative. I pointed out that I run on a byproduct so there'll still be Propane around for a long time yet. At that point the MoT tester started my car up to drive it into the test bay and the rumble of the V8 made him look. Told him that was on LPG and by the time we'd finished he went away with the idea of using his EV for commuting but getting a V8 on LPG for long journeys......

Nope, symptoms are different though. Switch it on and the display lights up but shows nothing (in fact, it looks like the LCD display has leaked) and no sound whatsoever, not even a click from powering it up. I've been over it with an LED light and jewellers eye glass looking for any dry joints and found nothing so as the cost of sending it to Clarion is less than a worker from eBay, I might as well do that. I've got a Pioneer DAB unit that I could put in it but that would involve making up the attenuators as it has door amps in it and would lose the steering wheel controls so original would be better.

From your thread on the oil pressure relief valve O ring leak, I suspect that's where this one is leaking from too. Very wet around the front of the engine with a drip hanging off the underside of the filter. Looking at the MoT history for it, oil leak from the front of the engine has been an advisory for at least the last 5 years.

One of the rears on the Ascot is even worse than yours was. I was thinking about changing it but then thought I may as well leave something for the new owner to do. Someone said that a P38 will always have 3 things that need doing on it, so if you leave 3 minor things nothing else will go wrong. If you fix the minor ones, the next one might be a major one.......

Good old Arnott..... It never ceases to amaze me how the Yanks think they know better than the original designers. With the cars that I've imported from the States over the years we've built up a box full of MSD distributors which Yanks have fitted because they have Made in USA printed on them so must be better than the original stuff. One of them, fitted to an early Porsche 911, was an empty die cast box with 'Ignition Optimiser' printed on it. If you really need the extra 2" because of bigger wheels and tyres, I'd stick a set of Dunlops on it and fit spacers under them.

Picked up the complete sunroof assembly yesterday but that's still in the back of my car at the moment. But working on the principle that I don't need a working sunroof for the MoT, dropped it in this morning. I got the LPG system working a week or so ago and as far as I could see, there was nothing else it might fail on. I was right. Passed with two advisories, engine oil leak (not dripping on the workshop floor but very wet around the front of the engine) and he wouldn't accept the explanation that it was Land Rovers patented chassis lubrication system and middle exhaust hanger rubber deteriorated (slight split but still supporting the exhaust). That's it, now just need to fit the new sunroof, re-trim the headlining (may as well do the job properly if it's coming out) and a couple of other minor cosmetic bits and it'll be ready to go. Radio doesn't work (lights up but does nothing more) so as it's the HK system (but pre-DSP thankfully) I'd rather leave it as standard but with the line in mod so that will be going into Clarion to be refurbed.

If it was the driver pack, it wouldn't fail on all channels, so it would still do something, even if only lift on 3 out to 4 corners. Is the compressor doing anything? Is it running on it's own or can you turn it on from within the software? It might be making a noise but is it shifting any air? Unscrew the filter from the end and put your finger over the hole, you should be able to feel it sucking.

Smiler wrote:

Success! Turns out I really am a mechanical genius/god!

I think you proved that at Summer Camp by spending a day adjusting Marty's wheel alignment. Anyone else would have given up, thrown their tools in the back and told him to take it to Kwik Fit......

Fuel hose is OK as a temporary fix and I used it to replace a short hose that goes from the throttle body heater to the inlet manifold on mine (GEMS having a different pipe layout). After a few months it had gone rock hard and I had to cut it off to remove it. Hose intended for fuel doesn't take kindly to hot water for some reason, although not quite as catastrophic as putting fuel through hose intended for hot water, it dissolves. I found very few places, not even my local motor factors who normally stock just about everything, carry 8mm coolant hose as it isn't often used.

Welcome and join the club, we've probably all been there at some time in the past. Mine did it during a blizzard in the middle of the night while towing a trailer somewhere in the middle of France. Actual fault turned out to be a dodgy height sensor but I could clear the fault, hit the unlock ECU button but as soon as I shut the software down and disconnected, it went back into hard fault. I found that if i cleared the faults, hit the unlock ECU and then just unplugged the lead, it all went back to normal. What faults were showing? On mine if I read the faults, hit the button marked Faults (the one that doesn't look like a button) and then read them again, they were all clear but came back as soon as I disconnected. Try it, it might work but you will need to fix the fault that caused it to throw a wobbly in the first place at some point.

I'll second the 8mm inside diameter single ply silicone hose from Auto Silicone Hoses and just replace the whole run. That's what I've done on mine. You could always call in at mine on the way past (I'm only 1.2 miles off the A1) as I've got about 6 feet of it. It's red as that was all they had in stock when I ordered black, but it'll give you something else to make look shiny.

dazer2000 wrote:

I'm taking the parts to RSW Solutions. The guy is sound, knows what h's doing.

That's alright then, just as long as you weren't taking them to the doctor.......

BBS-GUY wrote:

Of course this is all written in the documents that it seems so few take the time and trouble to read and the Nanocom gets so quickly and easily blamed for so many of the communication issues that are actually P38 ECU diagnostic communication design issues.

I must admit when I got mine it was a definite case of poke and hope and it was weeks before I dared even look into the BeCM in case I cocked something up and then found it didn't work. At the time I did say to a couple of people that the one thing it lacked was any instructions on using it. Then, while idly looking around your website, I found that there are instructions, just nothing that came with it to tell me there were and where to find them. Once you have the instructions, it all makes perfect sense but it may be worth a slip of paper in the box with a link to them.

bpsm, what are you doing on here? You should be on honeymoon? But yes, the old mechanism was well buggered. The mounting holes for the motor were stripped so I had to find some bigger screws to bolt it in securely and the bit that holds the back of the panel up so it fits in the hole were broken so someone had put a couple of self tappers in for it to rest on. No telling what else is wrong with it so rather than just swap the runners it makes sense to drop the headlining and fit a complete, known working, unit like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-2-5-4-0-4-6-COMPLETE-SUNROOF-CARTRIDGE-MECHANISM-94-02-/162592761016. He's got two or three of them but it will involve a run to Lowestoft to pick it up.

Not sure if the failure was a result of the parts or that something else is not right in the rest of it but I wouldn't go down that route again.

About time for an update. Passenger blend motor was playing up and bringing on the book symbol so I got stuck in to that. I'd got a spare that I'd changed on mine and then found that the motor tab had come unsolderd from the circuit board so I'd repaired that and put it on the shelf in case I ever needed it. Tried that one but still had the book and a RH blend motor potentiometer error on the Nano. Now this was the LH one that wasn't working and I could see that from the live data. Put it down to one of the little quirks of the Nano in reporting the fault on the wrong side. Checked the pot and it all seemed fine but I was still getting the error, so checked the one I'd taken off. That also had a broken solder joint on the motor, repaired that but it still didn't work. So bought a warranted one from Furness on the bay of E's. Connected that one up and still had the same error. Pulled the HEVAC out of the SE and put that in instead. Now the one in the Ascot is the early one that would have been fitted when it was new. The SE should also have the early one but it's obviously been changed at some point as it was the later version. This one showed the fault on the correct side but the fault was still there. Then it clicked. I'd been using the Nano to calibrate the blend motor before fitting it and, despite there being internal stops to limit the travel, they still allow it to move further than it will when in use so it was flagging and over range error. Fitted it, calibrated it, all fine. Swapped the original HEVAC back in and that was fine too. Put the dash back together.

Time to look at the sunroof. It did nothing other than cause the dash to tell me that the sunroof wasn't set. Had a look at the motor and found there wasn't one..... Got a replacement motor, fitted that and, although the motor made all the right noises, nothing moved. Off with the roof panel and found that the bits of plastic runner that the cables attach to were in two pieces. Ended up buying this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sunroof-Guide-Rail-Kit-Right-and-Left-Side-for-Land-Rover-and-Range-Rover/272216409213. Obviously 3D printed but looked right. Started on the LH rail and only replaced the broken bit, retaining the unbroken original parts. Found the bits needed an awful lot of fettling and filing before I got them to slide smoothly in the runner. Then took the RH rail out and started on that one. This was in a worse state and part of the original mechanism was missing so had to use more of the replacement parts. Only problem is that the parts are joined together with steel pins and the kit didn't include them. Spent hours in the garage trying find something of the right size and failing until I looked at a nail in the wall, measured it and found it was the perfect diameter. Much fettling and filing later and the RH rail was sliding smoothly too. Got it all back together and the cables attached and it seemed to work fine without the glass. The motor sounded to be working pretty hard but as I've never owned a P38 with a sunroof before, thought this was probably normal. Fitted the glass and it worked! Had to do a bit of fiddling with the adjustment but got it right in the end. Excellent I thought. Until this morning......

Got in it to move it and it still said Sunroof Not Set so figured I'd set it. Hit the button, the rear of the roof lowered and it started to slowly move backwards. Then there was a crack, a lump of broken plastic ricocheted off the top of my head and it didn't move any more. So, after £30 and 4 evenings worth of fiddling and fettling it looks like I'll be buying a compete unit and fitting that then. Which means the headlining shell has got to be dropped so I might as well retrim that while it's out too........

Ouch, 400 quid for something that may go the same way as the one you've got in a few weeks time.

no10chris wrote:

Maybe a good idea to not play with the car on your wedding day,

I did, but not until after the reception and it was out of necessity not because I really wanted to.

I must admit that I looked at the unit, and the price, and thought it would be a good option for my daughter's MR2 Roadster as that has a double DIN size hole and she needs a satnav and Bluetooth. Only problem with it is that it is missing the most important feature, no DAB!

Might be worth looking for a kit for a BMW as it's the same engine as the older 525d. You might have more suppliers to choose from then.

Diagram for the attenuators http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/entertainment/headunitadapt.html