Stumble on changeover is going to be down to changeover overlap or changeover delay, depending on what it is called in your software. It sets the delay between turning gas on and petrol off so if too low it will have no fuel for a fraction or if too high, it'll be drowning in fuel for a fraction. Both will cause a stumble, but usually it is caused when set too low.

Christmas tree separator is in the tube at one end of the rocker cover where the oil breather tube connects. It's a plastic thing that looks like a Christmas tree and is there to slow down any oil vapour and allow it to turn back into oil.

Yes, but check every hole as, as I say, OB had just one hole that wasn't big enough.

Lambda sensors are 5-0V which means that 5V will be seen at lean and 0V at rich. So setting it wrong and it starts rich and just gets richer and richer. As for injector type, what have you actually got and what are your options in the software?

You can also go for NGK BCPR6ES which are the same as the BPR6ES but with the smaller hex so will fit all Thor engines. The only difference is that some, and it is only some, Thor heads have a smaller hole machined in them for the plugs so the standard sized plug socket won't fit in the hole. OB found he had just one hole that was smaller, Rutland Rover found all of his where smaller but many others have found that none are.

I pay £2 each for both BPR6ES and BCPR6ES from my local motor factors.

I suppose it depends on why they are there. If they are there to deal with thermal expansion then if they can't expand, something else is going to go (or they'll just crack again). But if that is the case, how did the cast iron manifolds fitted to the same engine in a Classic survive and not crack? Although the cast iron manifolds did have huge holes for the bolts that could, as long as it wasn't bolted up solid with firegum on the gaskets, would allow a bit of movement. If they are there to allow a bit of flex to allow for manufacturing tolerances, then as long as the are bolted up to a head when welded, they should be fine.

Not a bad idea as long as nobody starts deleting anything in the general sections as they should be in the classifieds like on the other forum. I'm sure Gordon can add another forum easily enough.

I know we shouldn't laugh, but I did, sorry. Seems odd that the belt went. I've known them to get thrown off if a pulley bearing goes but I've never known one break. Not even ones that are so perished the ribs are falling off......

Not quite the same as the Classic, I've tried to find a decent pic of one but can't. The P38 one isn't like that on the Classic where you have a huge plate on the back, they have a square section arm that comes out from under the bumper with a square plate on the end with two pairs of holes for the ball. While they may be more practical, they just don't look as tidy as the factory swan neck.

Probably a German spec thing then, TUV approval and all that although I would have expected the factory one to be TUV approved with the car by Land Rover. Most of the aftermarket ones you see over here are the Witter ones with the flat flange where the towball bolts to it. Uglier than the swan neck but they do allow the ball height to be altered or a NATO eye to be fitted instead of the ball if needed.

Morat wrote:

Sadly that sort of thing is frowned at on the canals...

Only frowned at? Not specifically banned? In that case it might be worth a try, although I suspect the locks might cause a problem to the skier.....

The one that hit it came off a lot worse though......

That's aftermarket not original. The factory towbar has a detachable swan neck but is held on by a hoofing great bolt and rests on another, similarly sized, bolt. Looks like this

I'd be very worried about using something like the one you've pictured to hang 3.5 tonnes on with it only being held in place by a bolt going through it. .

A 4.6 Thor uses the ZF 4HP24 gearbox while the 4.4 L322 uses the ZF 5HP24. I wonder how different the actual gearboxes are and if an L322 bellhousing would bolt up to a P38 gearbox? That would make it pretty simple if they did.

42hp diesel? What's the use in that, you'd never be able to ski behind it?

Huh? That's a new one. when you unlock the doors, does the drivers door unlock? The boot release button gets an earth from the lock/unlock microswitch in the RH front door, so if that is locked the boot will be too. However, the locking/unlocking of the doors suggest that as soon as you press the button, an earth rather than power is being sent to the door latch and that is triggering the central locking. If you can get to it, behind the RH side panel in the boot (you'll need to get in from the front) there's a multi way connector where all the wires on one side are white and the others are different colours. If you unplug that and apply an earth to the white wire that would have been connected to the Green/Red wire on pin 10, the the boot release should work to at least get it open. Then you are going to be looking for a short to ground somewhere. The boot release gets power from fuse 15 on the BeCM to the release solenoid, then to the button and then to this connector back to the switch in the door latch so the short is going to be somewhere along that line (although I would have expected the release solenoid to be permanently engaged or the fuse to have blown if that was the case).

Problem with mine is that it's GEMS and I suspect you'd need a Thor as a basis. Both the Thor and the earlier L322 use the Bosch Motronic engine management so it should, in theory, be easier to make the engine talk to the rest of the car.

That's the way to do it if the boat comes out of the water, in the case of this one it sat at a salt water mooring all the time and only came out once a year to be de-fouled. He bought it in that state and it hadn't been used in 2 years. Got it at a very good price because of the water leaks which he sorted with a pair of replacement heads and a rebuild kit.

Put it on full lock, jack up both front wheels and try spinning a wheel while looking at the CV joints. If they are OK, then start looking at the front propshaft UJs. Certainly doesn't sound like gearbox or torque converter.

Sounds more like a CV joint if it is more pronounced when turning a corner.

Ouch! There's not a lot you can do with that, I somehow suspect that Radweld wouldn't work and welding cast iron isn't really an option. The one in my mates boat was running but not that well and he found rusty holes in one of the heads where the coolant passages had rusted through to the surface.

That was a Ford Windsor 351cu based engine though (in a Cranchi Turchese 24), the Chevy was in his previous boat.