Can't tell you the range but it's only a standard pot so if you measure resistance between the outer two pins that will give you the track resistance. Then measure between one of the outer pins and the middle one, it should vary between almost zero and whatever the resistance of the full track is as you move the arm. The usual failure is wear at a certain point on the track so you'll need to move it very slowly to see any drops or jumps in resistance. An old school analogue meter would be better than a digital one if you have one.

It isn't much better over here, I've never managed to remove one without resorting to the angle grinder.

You can take both radius arms off and leave the axle with the wheels on the ground and the shocks stopping it from rolling away but it's probably better to take one off at at time. Not on radius arm bushes but on similar metal/rubber/metal bushes on other vehicles I've done it the anti-social way of burning the rubber out (preferably downwind of your neighbours) then threading a hacksaw blade through the remaining hole and slitting the outer steel so it can be pushed out. In fact if you put two slits in it, the two bits will drop out.

These http://www.polybush.co.uk/shop/land-rover/range-rover-p38a but not cheap either.

I don't mind a nerdy post and it reads better than some of the stuff I have to wade through at work too. Reading that Wikipedia article explains why the ones I bought don't work (it also demonstrates the American 'not invented here' mentality). The dipped beam filament needs to be 1cm forward and 3mm higher than the high beam filament. The ones you suspect might work, definitely have the spacing something like although I suspect that the 3mm height difference isn't as much as that. The ones I got have a single large COB chip where one end illuminates for dip and all of it for main so the spacing is all wrong. Dip isn't far enough forward and is on the same axis so never are going to be any good.

I can vouch for the fact that US headlights are crap with the vehicles I'm importing from the US (there's a 1972 Volvo 1800ES sitting outside that needs taking to France next week). On most of them, they also have amber front sidelight/indicator units so I remove the sealed beam units and fit 7" round conversion units with H4 halogen bulbs and integrated sidelights. Then I have to disconnect the feed to the sidelight filament and run it to the separate sidelight bulb in the headlamp. There's been the odd one where the side/indicator unit doesn't use a single 5W/21W bulb but use separate bulbs so I can leave the sealed beam units in place and change the all amber lenses on the sidelights for European clear and amber ones. The US sealed beam units will pass an MoT as the flat splodge of light they give on dip is acceptable according to the testers manual but they are pretty piss poor for trying to see where you are going in the dark.

I swapped the radius arms on mine with those from the SE and they've got orange poly bushes in. No idea how long they had been on the SE before I got it but they've done at least 40,000 on mine and are still fine. So I would say orange poly bushes are OK too.

Yeah, overdo it and the steering does get a bit heavy...... Back it off a bit.

My mate Russell (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/539-newbie-4-6-hse-on-lpg) is a full time professional musician. Not sure if he qualifies for celebrity status but does spend a lot of his time at Abbey Road studios and did once appear on Coronation Street.......

Yes and yes. You should be able to screw the adjuster all the way through the nut. Take it out (unscrew it completely) and clean the threads up so it will screw right the way through.

When you slacken the locknut on the steering box adjuster, that also slackens the adjuster. I always put a blob of white paint on it before slackening off so I can see where it was originally. Then hold the locknut with a spanner, screw the adjuster in until you can feel some resistance then, while holding the adjuster, nip up the locknut. If going over bumps causes the steering to wobble, you've got slack in there somewhere.

Thanks Clive, Nightbreakers are back in now. I see what you mean about a narrow light source on the first ones..Although our light units are square, the actual reflector is circular and looks to be a standard parabolic reflector so will need a pinpoint light source. Much like how a satellite dish works to focus everything down to a single point.

I think what I'll do is leave the headlights as they are and try LED bulbs in the front fogs. When in France I tend to drive with them on anyway to give a bit more light directly in front of me so a bit more light from them wouldn't go amiss.

Try driving on the wrong side of the road, it might just be trying to follow the camber. Are the tyres at the correct pressures and both the same? Any odd wear on either front tyres?

Dragging a thread up from the past but what is the beam pattern like on yours Gordon? Having been impressed with the difference a pair of H7 LED bulbs made in Dina's Merc, and having an overnight trip through France coming up next week, I decided to fit a set in mine. Rather than spending £72 on a pair that OB bought (and they are shown as out of stock), I bought these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H1-H4-H7-H11-110W-20000LM-LED-Headlight-Conversion-Kit-Car-Beam-Bulbs-9005-9006/263050758238. Arrived this morning so got them fitted. Verdict, absolute crap. Yes they are bright but no matter how much I twist them (no locking screws just an interference fit) it seems impossible to get a decent beam pattern. Cut off is all over the place and having just gone for a quick blast down my unlit road test road, there's random blobs of light everywhere. The light may be a brighter white but visibility is no better, in fact it may even be worse, than it was before. Looks like the Osram Nightbreakers will be going back in tomorrow.....

I suspect, being made in China, they are configured for lights that should dip the other way so the LED positioning and headlamp lens are fighting against each other with neither winning. Anyone found any decent ones that do give the correct beam pattern but with better visibility other than the ones OB used?

Had the same problem on mine, although it was intermittent to start with. When I checked at the ECU it was sending the earth but it wasn't getting to the relay. Fairly common failure in the fusebox it seems and it can either be repaired or replaced. As I'd had mine to bits and resoldered a lot of connections when I first got the car, I just gave it a new fusebox. As a temporary measure I did just the same as you did.

If he hasn't heard of Elpigaz, find another LPG engineer. They are one of the oldest established Polish manufacturers, not as well known as the Italian makes, but still pretty well known. Having the reducers mounted low down is a good idea as it reduces the chances of air locks but the X5 have a pretty complicated coolant pipe layout so it might be plumbed in at the wrong place.

What injectors are fitted to the P38? If you suspect one is leaking, it might be simpler to just replace them. You can check for a leaking injector by pulling a hose after the engine has been switched off. There should be pressure stored between the reducer and the injectors so you'll hear the pressure escape. If there's no pressure, then there's a leak.

There was a guide with pictures on RR.net (http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/225890-new-fuse-box-external-relocation-rl7-relay.html) but it's fallen foul of the new photobucket rules so all the pictures have disappeared. Personally I'm with Chris here, replace the fusebox and treat it to some new relays. OK, so it's around 150 notes to do the lot but RL7 carries no more current that RL6 and nobody seems to worry about that one. Come to that, the ABS pump and EAS pump relays carry as much if not more current and again, nobody worries about them too. I think the relocation idea is more from the American, treat the symptom rather than the cause mentality, if the relay and it's contact with the board are good, it won't get hot.

I want one......

I've never taken the crossmember off, it just needs a bit of wiggling, should be no problem with it up on a lift. For the nuts on the manifold studs, you might need Irwin extractors (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/5-piece-bolt-grip-set-expansion-set/) as the nuts corrode so no longer have a decent hex on them for a socket.

Same guy that sent me a seat base in a completely different colour to the one in the photo on his ad. Not only was the colour different but the handle for moving the seat was different but he denied it was different even when I sent him photos comparing what his ad showed and what he sent me.

Afraid I agree with you. I've not heard the 17 speaker system and it undoubtedly sounds good, but does it sound that good when compared with a modern system? An ex had a Mazda RX8 with a 13 speaker Bose system in it and that sounded phenomenal. I've heard the standard HK DSP system and while it sounded good, it wasn't as good as a bog standard system in a lot of modern cars.

If you wanted to keep it looking original, you could retain the existing head unit but replace the amp with discrete amps that weren't designed 17 years ago.