Front brake lines don't run anywhere near the diff so unlikely. I'd say diff oil, the modern stuff is almost clear, especially if you used the synthetic which doesn't smell like the mineral based stuff does. It hardly smells at all. It doesn't get dirty either but stays looking like it did when you put it in, there's no combustion or anything there to dirty it. Clean it off with a blast of brake cleaner so you're starting with a clean and dry diff. It'll be either the pinion oil seal or a porous section in the weld in the actual casing.

I take it you've started you paternity leave then?

Agree totally on alloy wheels. Other half has a 2004 Merc and one of the tyres kept losing pressure so I took it in to get the rim cleaned off and sealed. They dunked it in a water bath only to find it was leaking from a 2 inch long crack on the inside of the wheel. No sign of it having been kerbed and it runs 65 section tyres too so not the low profile ones a lot of cars run these days. I was able to find a replacement matching wheel on eBay as I wasn't keen on he idea of getting it repaired, I've seen some repairs in the past that I wouldn't trust.

Probably quite well, he wasn't going to be driving it and the air was staying in there so why should he worry?

Doesn't matter. If the car is locked, put the new key in the hole, turn, press button, return, turn the other way, press button and if the sync has been successful the central locking will operate and unlock all the doors.

You have to hold the key in both positions and keep the button on the fob pressed until the LED starts to flash much faster. Just turning and pressing won't do it. If passive immobilisation has been turned off then I don't think it will sync in the ignition as it isn't told to transmit.

I've never noticed the lugs before and have used a strap wrench on the odd time it decided to try to come loose. It was only this time that I unscrewed it completely and noticed them while trying to work out how to grip it to remove the cap.

There should be two lugs inside the tube so you can turn or hold it in relation to the filler. Mine came right out when I did an oil change before setting off for France last weekend and I found that my pliers were a decent fit inside so used them to screw it back in after I'd got the cap off.

While you have the stat off then you'll also be able to check that it doesn't have the same moulding fault that Sloths had highlighted in the other thread I linked to.

Heater is dead easy, just take the two hoses off that go through the bulkhead, attach a hosepipe to the return and turn the tap on. Don't go bonkers with it though or you could create more leaks if you try and blast it through too hard. To do the engine your best bet is to clamp the two heater pipes and put your hosepipe where the top hose would connect. That way you will backflush the block and the rad or you might want to do the two separately so anything in the block isn't pushed into the rad. All you are doing is pushing water through in the opposite direction to the normal flow and hopefully flushing out anything in there that shouldn't be.

Looks like K Seal to me too. Time to give the whole cooling system a good back flush if someone has put that in there. Back flushing heater matrix is easy enough and I suspect you'll be surprised at just how much crap will come out. Also make sure the air bleed nipple on top of the rad, the hose from it and the small hole into the header tank are completely clear too or you'll never be able to properly bleed the cooling system.

On a Zavoli it's under a tab called Modify Carb which should deal with it but no doubt LPGC will pop up and confirm how it should be used. Have you confirmed it's going lean from the lambda readings on full bore?

Blimey, not surprising it was making a bit of a racket, where's the brass come from? Motor bearing?

If you need any spares, the BECM Doctor has a sale on at the moment. Only $300 for a set of used Dunlops (http://www.becmdoctor.com/product-p/p02dlu.htm). He's having a bloody laugh......

Even if the O rings were leaking, it wouldn't affect the amount of heat you get from the heater, just how often you need to top up the cooling system and how damp your carpets get..

I was only joking honest, I figured you'd know which way and would probably have just lifted the washers and nuts off in one go. That way it's damn near impossible to get them wrong. I did wonder if you'd replaced the rubber mounts when you refurbed the compressor as my local indie reckoned the replacements aren't as supple as the originals were.

Or Marty put the washers on upside down.....

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

Are you saying instead of feeding the reducer from the flow, feed it from the return?

No, feed the reducer from the flow but instead of connecting it across the flow and return as it appears to be at the moment using Tees, connect it in the flow only. If you look at the diagram in the thread I linked to, take off hose 22, connect the steel pipe that comes from the inlet manifold to the reducer and then connect the return from the reducer to the heater input. Leave the return from the heater going straight to the other pipe without anything in it.

As OB says, with it plumbed as it is, you can force all of the coolant to go via the heater by clamping one of the pipes to the reducer so no flow can go through it, it will all have to go through the heater.

Yeah, that's in parallel using Tee pieces so the coolant flow can go either way, reducer or heater. If you can work out a neat way of doing it, it's much better to have them in series so both get the benefit of full flow. If you have a look at the diagram in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/231-lpg-vapouriser-reducer-plumbing?page=2 then you need to get the reducer in the hose marked 22. You might need to find a couple of L bends to make it neat and tidy and reduce the chances of the hose kinking and making things even worse.

There's always the possibility that you have a stat housing from the same batch as Sloth found on his.

No idea, but it might well do, particularly when working hard. I looked it up some time ago and providing the mixture is spot on (as it will run hotter if weak and cooler if rich) I found info that said petrol burns at 1530 degrees C and LPG at 1550 C so hardly any difference at all, not enough difference to worry about. However, I'm not sure if that is right as aluminium melts at a lower temperature than that which wouldn't do the cylinder heads or pistons a lot of good, although it does explain why running an engine with a weak mixture for a very long time will melt a piston crown.