That one is starting to lift in the same place as mine, you can see the end of the windscreen vent being pushed up. If this one was like that I'd probably leave it but it has lifted the full width of the vent so the vent sticks up about an inch and looks silly.

The Ascot is a 96, so that would explain it. I'd not seen it before either but the dash does seem to be a bit harder than on mine so maybe suffers worse than the later ones.

I used a 6mm push on pipe connector on the end of the old pipe and the new pipe with a bit of tape to help them stay together. The pipe was clipped along the bulkhead but once it was pulled out of the clips, it came out reasonably easily. Hardest one to get at was a clip right in the centre beneath the ignition coils.

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

i see. I was under the assumption that you could put the glue on the dash, and then spray the activator on the part you want to fit.

No, the dash is a plastic moulding that then has a vinyl covered foam layer bonded to it and the bind has let go. I'm assuming it's due to the car being left standing in sunlight, but rather than crack like a lot of dashtops do, it looks like the vinyl has contracted so it has pulled the foam away from the plastic moulding. I need to get some adhesive on the underside of the vinyl/foam bit and then clamp it down to the plastic moulding and hope it stays stuck down. Then I can put the vent back in.

Incidentally, it's also started to lift above the instruments but not so much that the edge can be seen as it is covered by the surround. If you look at one of the pictures of his car that DevonP38 posted (http://i.imgur.com/WbA7s9d.jpg), you'll see that his has done the same but a little more so you can see the edge of the vinyl/foam sandwich.

Just replaced the full run on the Ascot. Bit of a bugger to do and it turns out I didn't need to do it all, the split in it was behind the engine, the end under the dash was fine. I could have just chopped it off where it goes through the bulkhead and put a join in.

How am I supposed to spray anything when there's a windscreen in the way? It needs doing in one hit, get some glue in there, then clamp everything down and wait for it to go off. How long I have to wait isn't important as long as it's gone off before I take the clamp off.

That's not going to be any good, it'll have set before I've even got a layer over the full width. I had considered Tiger Seal as I've got an unopened tube of it that I bought for something else but have been saving uses up as once the tube is open it goes off after a week or so. With Tiger Seal I can put a longer tube on the nozzle and get it into where it needs to be too.

Got a little niggly one on the Ascot(?). The dash foam is lifting either side of the drivers windscreen vent. There's the vinyl covered foam and underneath that is the plastic shell and they have parted company. I can make up a clamp to be able to hold it down but need a glue to put in there before clamping it. I'm thinking along the lines of some sort of epoxy but it needs to be something that doesn't go off too quickly or it will be going off before I get the clamp in place. It also needs to be something I can put on with a (bent) brush as I think taking the windscreen out or the dash off isn't really an option.

Anyone got any recommendations?

Not sure why the feature is there but it is unlikely to flatten the battery overnight by waking up for 2 minutes every 6 hours. It does give you early warning of a leak although I suspect that isn't why it's there. Mark's main problem seems to be that he's got relays 18 and 19 permanently energised, even with the ignition off, and that isn't good. That is almost certainly why the battery is going flat, one of them powers the engine ECU. That's why I suspect the fusebox has been changed for the wrong one. It's a '96 car so the fusebox was originally an AMR3375 which was superseded by the AMR6405 which is presumably an updated version that would be more reliable than the original. £105 from Island 4x4, so not the end of the world.

I recently reinstated the air suspension on a car a mate bought which had also had 4 Schrader valves fitted under the bonnet to allow each corner to be inflated individually. He found that without the automatic lowering at speed, it felt decidedly unstable at anything over 60 mph. He got an O ring kit for the valve block and a rebuild kit for the compressor, did those then I fitted them and checked it over. There was a couple of leaks where the air lines had been mucked about with when the valves were fitted but some decent quality joiners and a couple of feet of air line and it now works perfectly. Total cost for the lot? About £60.

I know all about the EU bureaucracy, a mate lives just outside Nice in France and that is just as bad. He lives 2,000 feet up the side of a mountain and needed something that could do it in all weathers. I found a 2.8 litre Nissan Patrol on LPG over here and bought that on his behalf. He had to insure it as a Nissan 280Z as the petrol Patrol had never been imported into France and the 280Z was the only car using that engine officially imported. As for the LPG, he'd got no chance. He would have had to have the system ripped out and a system approved by the French authorities installed instead. Even then, he'd still have had to insure it as a 280Z though. It came back here and was sold on. As for boats, nothing over 9.9 hp without a licence (sans permis), fortunately, I've got an ICC for inland and offshore for powered craft up to 24m so can legally use his boat or hire one but nobody else can.

It needs a bit of varied driving, slow speed, acceleration, deceleration, high speed, etc. You'll know when it's right when it will idle when you first start it and drive as it used to do.

Reset ECU sets everything to factory defaults, all the configuration settings and the fuel map. So if you did hit the reset button, you've royally screwed everything and it will need setting up from scratch BUT NOT UNTIL YOU HAVE RUN ON PETROL ONLY TO LET IT ADAPT. The fact it won't idle on petrol when you first start it shows you have screwed the petrol adaptations as well.

Run solely on petrol, change the leads when they arrive and let it sort itself out on petrol and only then start playing with gas again.

Hi Mark, glad you found your way here. Something is odd here and as I mentioned on the other forum (no, lads, not that other forum, but another one), hot fuse box and relays being held in when they shouldn't could suggest someone has replaced the fuse box with the wrong one. Fuseboxes, particularly the early ones, did have a habit of burning out. They can be rebuilt is you are handy with a soldering iron (see http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/electrical/fusebox.html) but if you've got the wrong one all bets are off.

The voltage drop between battery and alternator suggest that there's a dodgy connection. Maybe where the two cables are joined at the starter or just corrosion inside the terminals. Do they look good or are they a bit on the green side?

Change the pressure back to 1.1 and one lambda and it will be back to how it was once it's re-calibrated the petrol system. By changing things in software but not making the same changes in the hardware, it's got itself a little confused.

If it's the speaker itself that is dead, bung a pair of JBL Stage 600 speakers in the front doors instead. I've recently put a pair in mine to replace the 19 year old rattly things that were in there and they make a noticeable diffrence to the sound quality. I got the 600C models which have now been replaced by the 600CE but you might find someone with the C's still.

It won't have altered the fuel mapping but it will now be correcting for something that didn't need correcting. If the map was calibrated with the 1.1 bar and 1 lambda set, then it will be correct for those settings. Changing the settings back won't sort the problem immediately, it'll still need to be driven to allow it to re-adjust back to how it was.

That's why RAVE says that calibration must be carried out with Testbook. Presumably Testbook comes with a calibrated tape measure........

By changing things you've upset the calibration. Now when running on LPG the mixture is out so, as it slaves off the petrol system, the petrol system is adapting to get the mixture correct when on gas. Then when you go to run on petrol, the mixture is wrong and it has to adapt again to get it right. Think of it this way. Lets say that for a given revs and load the petrol injectors need to be open for 7mS and at the same revs and load the LPG injectors need to be open for 10mS. The LPG controller takes the pulses intended for the petrol injectors, adds 3mS and uses those pulses to fire the LPG injectors. If the LPG calibration is out and it's only adding 1mS, the petrol ECU sees a lean mixture so adjusts the petrol pulse length to 9mS. All is then fine on LPG but when you go back to petrol, it's too rich as the pulse length has increased so it has to be run on petrol for a while to adapt down to 7mS again. That's why I said don't change anything, it was running fine on both fuels so it was pretty much correct and now it isn't.

and as your car now belongs to one of my neighbours, it'll still get plugged in round here if anything starts playing up. We're doing quite well in this village for P38's. Obviously there's my 3 (and a Disco outside at the moment too), your old one about 100 yards away, an HSE just around the corner and further into the village a guy with a DSE. That's 6 all living within half a mile of each other.

no10chris wrote:

and at least it's a full fat rangie

Nah, it's only a Disco in drag......

When he came round to mine in it I think it was the first one I'd ever seen that wasn't black.