Not really a viable option then. Getting hold of a later one and getting Marty to clone it would seem to be the only way to do it. You'd just need to find a BeCM.

I thought the same when I had to do it on mine years ago. Seems the adaptation will lower the reference voltage for a closed throttle if it detects that the TPS value has gone below what it is expecting, but doesn't seem to raise it. I suspect that this is because it assumes the throttle may not be fully closed for a reason.

A point that only Simon may understand and isn't really relevant to this thread but the same happens on the Leonardo on my car. After driving for hundreds of miles at a time at a fixed throttle opening, if it come off the throttle slightly, the Leo detects the drop in TPS voltage as closed throttle and closes the stepper down. If I then come off the throttle completely, it sees the lower voltage and resets the closed throttle setting so decelerates smoothly after that, It will only do it in France (or any other country where you aren't constantly slowing down for roadworks, dickheads that don't understand lane discipline, temporary speed limits and the various other things we find in this country) and can drive at a constant speed for hours at a time.

As Marty explained, all it did was simulate the key switch and CDL switches being operated. As the key switch was no longer working, when I unlocked the car with the key, it was the same as unlocking with the sill button, the CDL switch operated but the keyswitch didn't so it triggered the alarm which then left the car immobilised. With EKA disabled, it wasn't possible to enter the EKA (even if the key switch had been working) and the alarm set off for some other reason. Seems that disabling the EKA is a pretty dangerous thing to do.

All I can say is that it bloody worked! So huge thanks to OB for posting it and Marty for deciphering what it said. Fitted the battery from the SE which had been on charge since yesterday in preparation of moving it, Pulled the door panel off, unplugged the connector to the latch, grounded the blue/red and green/red simultaneously and the central locking fired into life and unlocked (and then relocked) all the doors. Put the key in the ignition and the message centre told me the alarm had been triggered but the engine started. No longer immobilised, RESULT!!! Not only that but the Nano could now connect to the BeCM so I've enabled the EKA again. Whether this is deliberate so that you can't connect if the alarm has been triggered, I've no idea but the software and firmware versions are 31 and 33 so it probably isn't possible to enter the EKA with the Nano anyway. Can the soft/firmwares be updated or is that something that owners of earlier cars are stuck with?

Cause of the problem was that the spurious loop of cabling due to a later latch with flying leads having been fitted at some time in the past had been caught by the window mech and ripped out the key switch wire. So, with a bit of soldering and heat shrink, it'll all be sorted.

Got to be worth a try in the morning. As said, it isn't going anywhere at the moment and neither is the SE as it is blocked in the driveway by the Ascot. Which means that at the moment the import I collected from the docks today is having to sit outside rather than on the driveway in front of the garage where it needs to be......

I've got two fobs with it and they both synced up perfectly using the turn key and press button method. But as the battery has gone flat, they both need to be re-synced but it won't let me do that while it is immobilised. I haven't disconnected the battery yet. I intend doing that and taking it off to put it on charge (it's parked too far away for the leads on my huge charger in the garage to reach). Then, hopefully, I can put it back on and it will play nicely.

I suppose worse case I could take the BeCM off and put it on the SE and see if I can connect to it when it's on that. At least that will let me enable the EKA in it.

Some of you may remember that I noticed that EKA was set as Disabled in the BeCM on the Ascot. It didn't seem to be a problem but now it is. As you probably realised, I've been away and it hasn't been touched for 10 days. I was pleased to see that the EAS appears to be working fine as it hadn't settled at all in that time.

However, went to move it today and the doors didn't unlock on the fob, none of them. Opened it with the key in the hole and only the drivers door unlocked. Found that the battery was completely flat. I mean totally, zilch volts. Connected jump leads and noticed the hazards flashing. As the sounder has been disconnected, that meant the alarm was going off. Closed the door, manually locked it and unlocked it again and the hazards stopped so I'd turned the alarm off. Tried to start it and the dash said Engine Disabled, Press Remote. Now the remote isn't doing anything as the flat battery has caused it to lose sync. I can't re-sync it as it won't do that while the engine is immobilised.

So, grabbing all the paperwork for it, thrash off down to local friendly main dealer and get the printout showing the EKA code (so I at least now know which of the 5 different 4 digit numbers handwritten on the various bits of paper is the EKA code). Back home, try the EKA and it does nothing. But as EKA is disabled in the BeCM, that's probably why. Out with the Nanocom and plug that in. Go into the BeCM settings and get "Error, Unable to communicate with the ECU". Clean the contacts on the OBD connector, still the same. Check RAVE and find that the BeCM uses the same pins as the engine ECU, ABS ECU and HEVAC. Try them and find I can connect to all 3 (although the HEVAC did put up a bit of a fight) but still can't connect to the BeCM. Tried it the usual way with ignition off, tried it with ignition on, rebooted the Nano umpteen times but it still won't connect.

So, anyone got any ideas? I've got a car that has lost sync (no check engine light) so it either needs the remote button pressing but as the remote has lost sync, that won't do anything, or the EKA entering but as EKA has been disabled in the BeCM I need to connect to the BeCM to enable it before it can be entered.

Fuse 17 also deals with the brake lights. Supply from it comes off the only plug on the back of the BeCM, the one under the carpet in the rear footwell. Mine was well burnt and whenever I put my foot on the brake the HEVAC display and radio went off. Oddly, according to RAVE, fuse 17 has naff all to do with the radio.....

Only time I've seen it is after I'd moved a car with one ABS sensor disconnected but that alternated with ABS Failure. Shouldn't affect the radio though so I would think you are right in suspecting a dodgy earth.

Orangebean wrote:

The Direnza one you mention Gilbertd could probably be made to fit with some creative plumbing.

Or creative alloy welding maybe? The only difference between a GEMS and Thor rad is the position of the top hose outlet. My car had a Thor rad fitted when I got it and a two piece, home made, top hose. There's an Allmakes on mine which has been there for 7 years and something like 130,000 miles and I've noticed over the last few days that the gauge has been climbing slightly while slogging the 1,500m to the top of the mountain. Nano showed that it was hitting 99 degrees by the time I'd got to the top. There'll be a Direnza going on mine very shortly.

I would suspect all three wires came out of the main loom at the same point. You should be able to find three gnawed off ends there somewhere.

Single one is the temperature gauge sender for the dash. The wire should be a Green/Blue and goes back to pin 1 on C217, a 20 way white connector under the dash. The one with two connections is the cooling fan switch and should have two wires to it, one being a black wire going to ground, the other a Blue/Purple that goes back to the fan control module and condenser fan control relay via the condenser control diode.

Shame they don't do one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIRENZA-TWIN-CORE-ALUMINIUM-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-P38-V8-4-0-4-6-94/350591602189 for the Thor, only GEMS and diesel......

I don't know of anyone that has bought the EAS V4 although I considered it initially. Despite people saying the the free version was unstable and not that good, I never had a problem with it, possibly due to using it on a geriatric Panasonic Toughbook with a proper RS232 port rather than trying to use USB and a dongle. Looking at the screenshots of the V4, it shows a tab for the HEVAC which was one thing I wanted as the book symbol appearing intermittently with no real clue why was annoying me. However, in the specs it doesn't mention the HEVAC at all. I emailed Storey and asked him if it did the HEVAC. He came back, admittedly after a few days, to say that he hadn't yet got it working with the HEVAC and it was a 'work in progress' and would be added at a later date. Reading between the lines on the other forum it seemed that a 'work in progress' meant that it might be introduced at some point in the future or, more likely, would be forgotten about until he released V5 in exchange for an even greater amount of hard earned. At that point I decided to discount it and save my pennies for a Nanocom. Colin from Blackbox Solutions who designed the Nanocom reckons the HEVAC is one of the hardest modules to crack anyway but he's proved it can be done with the Nano.

Bring it on with a spurious connector, I had a Classic LSE prior to the P38 so have a bit of experience with them.

super4 wrote:

do you think EAS v4 it can do things like reset idle of the TPS ?

The blurb clearly states that it can reset adaptive fuel values so if it can't reset the TPS, I'd ask for my money back. TPS idle voltage is one of the adaptive values along with long and short term fuel trims.

GEMS (Lucas Generic Engine Management System) is only partially OBD compliant so doesn't log misfire codes so the EAS V4, Nanocom or a generic code reader won't show them. It might report too rich or too lean codes as a result of a misfire but that is about all. As full OBD compliance didn't become mandatory in the EU until 2000 I strongly suspect that is why the Thor version was developed with an ECU that is fully compliant.

When the throttle is fully closed the butterfly should be exactly at right angles to the intake so it is closing it off fully (or as best it can). If the stop or part of the linkage that bears against the stop wears, it will allow it to go beyond fully closed so start opening the opposite way. So you will have a partially open throttle which, as you press the pedal will first of all close before it starts to open again. Nothing, other than your right foot, controls the throttle opening. Idle speed is controlled by the ECU so with the throttle closed so no air passing through it and the closed throttle voltage from the TPS being correct, it will adjust the IAV to get the idle speed correct. If there is air getting through the throttle butterfly it will simply close the IAV a bit more to keep the idle where it should be (RAVE says idle on a GEMS should be 700 +- 20 rpm but reading the settings on mine, the ECU is set for a base idle of 625 rpm). As you open the throttle, the butterfly starts to open up, the TPS voltage rises and the ECU tells the IAV to open to give instant throttle response. If the butterfly has gone over centre, the throttle is actually closing initially but the TPS voltage is rising so the IAV has to be opened much further to try to get the revs where the ECU is trying to get them to. Then you get a slight hesitation on tiny throttle openings before the revs rise further and you'll find it virtually impossible to hold the revs at 1,000 rpm for instance, it will be at idle or higher than that as you can't balance the butterfly opening and TPS voltage to achieve those revs. Admittedly, at 120k miles, I wouldn't expect the stop to have worn but you never know.

and of course you aren't programming the fob to match the car but programming the car to match the fob(s) so you'd have to swap the blades over and you'd never be able to get a replacement fob if you ever needed one as it would no longer match the VIN. As Marty says, it can be done but is probably likely to cause further problems down the line.

Steam cleaning the engine is possible and shouldn't harm any of the sensors if you are careful. Where you don't want any damp is in the fusebox or ECU.

The main dealer were probably assuming the high idle was due to the throttle butterfly either sticking open or the stop having worn and allowed it to go over centre. In the case of the latter you get a flat spot at very small throttle openings as it is fractionally open, then closes before opening again. There's nothing about it in the P38 version of RAVE but there is in that for the Classic. I had to give mine a tweak at around 300,000 miles. The stop is loctited in so takes a lot of force (feeling like too much) to get it to move and it is only a tiny hex (2mm from memory but maybe 3mm). Page from the Classic manual is below but bear in mind if you do decide to do it, you'll need to reset the TPS again.

The gasket is only a thin paper one to prevent an air leak. I've never had one either and just put a smear of grease on the back of the TPS.