I'm not familiar with an MCX connector so just Googled it to have a look. Seems that MCX and SMB are the same dimensions but are reversed polarity so one has the pin in the plug and the other has it in the socket. I would have thought that a DAB aerial connection would be standard. I've got the same aerial on my works van and on Dina's Merc, both using a Sonichi DAB tuner (http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/dab-car-stereos/sonichi-s100-digital-radio-adapter) and another on the P38 which used to have a Pioneer DAB radio and now has a Kenwood. The aerial has plugged straight into all of them.so I suspect it will be the same on your tuner.
DON'T ever cut and try to join RF coax without some sort of constant impedance connector. You'll lose the best part of 1dB of signal on a connector so with an unscreened soldered joint there's no telling how much you will lose.
Yeah, but without a workshop to get things in and give them a good fettling on the bench, I'd probably end up with a light held in with gaffer tape so it would be wise to leave that job until I'm back home. But when I'm back home, I've got the Ascot to finish off and then get stuck in to the SE as I really do need to do something with that so the headlight will wait until next time I'm stuck for something to do
That looks like a far more productive way of spending the day. I was a little concerned at the number of packets with Britpart on them until I realised that is just the replacement bolts and you wouldn't think they could get too much wrong with them. Although I did find that a Britpart hub nut has a 36mm hex but the originals were only 32mm.......
I'll admit to suffering withdrawal and spent an hour this morning staring at things under the bonnet of mine to see if there was anything that needed attention. Having failed to find anything amiss under there, I've spent another hour reading bits of RAVE that I've never had need to read before. Still didn't find which adjuster does what on the headlights as my RH light is fractionally lower then the left and I was going to give that a tweak when it gets dark. All this sitting in the sun next to the pool drinking beer is beginning to get boring.
According to the parts listing the only colours are Ash Grey, Dark Granite, Light Stone Beige and Walnut so beige is going to be what everyone calls Lightstone.
They do the ones for the sub cover too http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/83051/5497/trim_clip_fir_tree_dark_stone_beige___p38_range_rover
Brit-car list them at 68p each http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/96002/5497/cover_screw_beige_rr_p38
I must admit, I didn't realise they existed until I got the Ascot as neither of my previous P38s had the screw covers on them.
No idea why they used a different keyway but the one you have is for a Freelander. Same part number for both the 1.8 4 pot K series and the KV6 but different to the P38 with a completely different engine. They both do the same job but I can't see the one you have giving a consistent reading. As long as the old one tests OK, put it back on.
super4 wrote:
Took my friend Gary down to the coast (5 miles) to a Spanish garage to collect his car and found surprise surprise that they reckon they can read and reset the P38.
Now there is a typically Mediterranean attitude. If they reckon they can do it, why didn't they spend 5 minutes proving it rather than booking you in for Wednesday? I would think they can read and reset any fault codes but so can a £30 generic code reader, unless they have something specialised they won't be able to reset the adaptive values. It'll be down to what you asked them, can they reset faults or can they reset adaptive values, the two things are very different.
I just Googled it for you but the problem I've got is that as I'm on a French ISP, Google keeps giving me results in France. Or not as is the case with this search but I did come up with this place http://nagaz24.pl/matrix-rail-repair-kit-plates,s,3459,p,en.html. However, Matrix XJ injectors are so damn reliable that unless they done a million miles and are clattering away like a bunch of grannies knitting, I'd leave them alone.
If the keyway on the one you ordered looks like this
it's the wrong one. The top of it looks correct but the part number your need is ERR4278 which has a sort of butterfly shaped keyway. Not cheap though.
You should have a breather on both rocker covers. The shorter L shaped one goes from the LH (as looking at it sitting in the car) goes up to the throttle body. The other one is longer and goes from the RH rocker cover to a stub on the side of the plenum chamber.
But there's only 2 wires, one from the battery and one to the points? How can you cock that up when there's only two terminals on the coil?
Base is magnetic and the whip bit unscrews so no problem with washing.
Mine hasn't yet........
But I'll let you know how well it holds up by the end of the week. However, as the cars I import come down here I've worked on cars in 35 degree heat and can tell you it isn't a lot of fun. The worst bit is when the sweat runs down your forehead and drips off your eyebrows into your eyes. No cars to work on this time though it's even worse. My mate is away for the week so we're house, chicken, cat and alpaca sitting.....
It's sort of regional. There's National channels so you'll get the same no matter where you are then there are local multiplexes which carry your local stations. If you bung your postcode in here http://www.getdigitalradio.com/stations/index/?showall=1 it'll tell you what national and local ones you'll get in your area
But I'm at the end of the first leg of a 2,000 mile round trip already! I'm currently on top of a mountain just outside of Nice surrounded by olive trees, the swimming pool is at 28 degrees, the fridge is full of beer (although not quite so full as it was yesterday) and my dinner is in the oven. Give me a few days and I might get bored enough to want to start playing with cars again though.
No, the aerial is central at the back and there's a hole with a grommet next to where the cables into the upper tailgate go through. Easy enough to poke the cable through that and by pulling the tailgate seal down you can feed the cable across above the headlining to one side. Then you can get it every so often just by pulling the top of the door rubbers down until you reach the passenger A post trim and poke it behind that.
I found that the on-glass aerials don't work too well and are directional when stuck on the rear side windows. I changed to one of these http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/sonichi-magnetic-roof-mount-dab-antenna and ran the cable above the headlining. Works very well.
I may be closer than I would normally be but still 1600 kms away from you. Slightly too far for a day trip with the Nano that's in the pocket on the back of the passenger seat....... I'm useless with a trowel though.
T plate? 98? A 98 would be on an R or S plate, a T would normally be a Thor not GEMS and would have a VIN starting XA. Or are you trying to confuse the Spanish by running false plates?
However, as long as you have the correct crank position sensor, it will just work. If it will bolt in and the cable connect to it, it is the correct one and a dead CKP will stop the car from starting. So if you fit the new one and it starts, it's fine.
super4 wrote:
Surely, if the idle is set to the zero volt/impedance position regardless it would have remembered with the old one and remained as before.
Idle voltage is usually around the 0.6-0.8V mark and it is set so that idle isn't fully at the end of the travel. What happens with an old one is the plastic wears so the pot can return towards the end stop. Then the throttle closed voltage is lower than the stored voltage and you get a slight hesitation as you open the throttle (easy check is see if you can hold the revs at 900 rpm, with wear you'll find you can't, it'll be idle or 1,000+). Fitting the new one without the wear and the voltage is higher hence the high idle.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
They even threw in a leather scented magic tree. lol.
That's only in case you have a Japanese car or a Jeep where they can manage to make real leather look and smell like plastic......