If it isn't, elongate them further. It needs to move clockwise as you look at it from the front.

They mount using the studs straight through the mounting plate on the chassis with a couple of nuts (which invariably have to be cut off with the angle grinder if you want to change one). The studs are usually just bolts pressed through the plastic so could probably be pressed out if you had to. The instructions would be far clearer with a picture.....

It clearly says that it will do the adaptive reset but what it doesn't say it will do is show live data so you can't see the lambda sensors flip flopping as they should, you can't have a readout of revs against air flow, etc, all useful things to have when trying to do diagnostics on a modern fuel injected car. I've owned my P38 for 7 years now and for the first 5 I used the free EASUnlock software and a generic code reader, which would do live data, before buying the Nanocom. I bought it solely because it could reset the adaptive values (so I could set my TPS back where it should be and not twisted round on elongated mounting holes to get round the very same problem you currently have) and also read faults on the HEVAC, ABS, SRS and BeCM.

The problem you have currently is that when you first start it the idle air valve is at the default position for idle, then it reads from the TPS, sees a higher voltage, assumes you have given it a bit of throttle and opens it up to give you the high idle. Stop procrastinating and take a drill to the mounting holes. You can always reset it back to where it should be once you have the ability to reset the values.

He's not got duff readings so gearshift won't be affected. His readings are correct other than the minimum value expected can't be achieved by the TPS so while the ECU is expecting to see something in the region of 0.4 - 5.0V it can only output 0.7 - 5.0V so at idle it's wrong but correct everywhere else. What he will find is that with a high idle, downshifts will be clunky.

Lpgc wrote:

Curious then, does disconnecting the battery on Gems reset some adaptive values?

No, as said, all it resets is the windows, sunroof and radio, adaptive values stored in the GEMS unit are stored end of. Holding the throttle open won't do anything either as the problem is a high idle not low. The TPS value stored for closed throttle has remained but by mucking around with an incompatible TPS he's caused the value at closed throttle to be set lower than the TPS is capable of supplying. So GEMS thinks the throttle is partially open all the time and is opening the IAV to act as a progression jet. I caused the same problem by starting the car with the TPS disconnected so it saved the low value (i.e. zero) as closed throttle so as soon as I plugged it back in the 0.7V was seen as throttle open. Seems it will self adapt downwards but not upwards.

I doubt it as that is just an RS232 to OBD cable with no active components at all. I suppose it's always possible that the interface in the cable is just a USB to serial adapter built in but I doubt it or you could use a straight cable and separate adapter. It's probably very similar to the Chinese copy Opcom unit I've got to talk to Vauxhall/Opel cars and the similar one I've got for Vagcom (VW/Audi) and they aren't interchangeable.

The cable shown on his website does appear to be a USB to OBD cable with the built in interface and it does say that it is a specifically designed hardware and software product so I suspect it won't work without the cable.

Direct from Storey http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a/range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock-v3

Comes with the required cable but that will be sent by post so might arrive before Christmas.....

Orangebean wrote:

WTF didn't Mr Tune Right plug in and reset there and then?

Because like everyone else, he can read and reset fault codes but almost certainly can't reset the adaptive values. But you would have expected him to have plugged in his machine and proved he can't do it*. As OB says disconnecting with battery and leaving it for a minute, a day or even a millennium won't reset anything other than the windows, sunroof and radio. Get the drill out and elongate the mounting holes in the TPS so you can turn it. It WILL work guaranteed.

• In saying that, I got an email from Mymystery yesterday. She's just outside Paris so in what you would consider to be a reasonably civilised area but it's only taken 3 months of cancelled appointments and excuses as to why they can't do it that day to get her wheels balanced FFS.......

I've found that a microswitch that is on it's way out will fail more often in hot weather. Probably something to do with thermal expansion. Until I changed the microswitches in my drivers latch I used to get dancing locks but only when it was very hot.

Doesn't explain problems in Yorkshire though.....

Maintained and in great mechanical condition is normal for piece of mind, leak free is like wishing for a white Christmas, it may happen once in a while but it'll never last and you certainly can't rely on it.

It's linear from idle (about 0.5-0.7V) up to wide open throttle at just short of 5.0V. I've done it and it works, believe me.

Didn't have any (other than the one at the Latvian border taken last year that has already been posted) so just nipped out and got a couple.

Olive trees and the house where we are staying that can just be seen lurking behind

and just along the track with Nice in the background. Nice airport is the bit on the far right sticking out into the sea.

It may be slightly overcast today but it's still bloody hot.....

I always thought the dangly wicks were to prevent a build up of static to stop travel sickness. Doubt they worked for either purpose......

They share an ignition switched supply. Fuse 17 powers the brake lights, the HEVAC display and EAS display. Although the diagrams don't show it as having anything to do with the radio, I found that with an intermittent connection my radio would go off as well as everything else on that supply. It comes off the only connector on the back of the BeCM (accessed from the rear footwell) and is on a white wire at one corner of the connector. You'll see which one it is, it's the one that is starting to look burnt. If the HEVAC display dims slightly when you put your foot on the brake pedal, that connection is getting warm.

Clean it off and see if you can see where it is leaking from. It's not unknown for a weep to come out of a weak point in the weld on the axle casing itself.

Course it will, you only need to insulate the bits of wire from ground and each other. If you were really brave you could leave them as a three dimensional birdsnest but I wouldn't advise it.

Make one you lazy bastard, it's only a plate with three holes drilled in it.....

Yup, you got it.

You've got it right. If they can't do the reset, your easiest option is, as I suggested earlier, to enlarge the mounting holes so you can turn the TPS slightly. That way you can get the voltage back into the correct operating window.