Fuse 17 also deals with the brake lights. Supply from it comes off the only plug on the back of the BeCM, the one under the carpet in the rear footwell. Mine was well burnt and whenever I put my foot on the brake the HEVAC display and radio went off. Oddly, according to RAVE, fuse 17 has naff all to do with the radio.....
Only time I've seen it is after I'd moved a car with one ABS sensor disconnected but that alternated with ABS Failure. Shouldn't affect the radio though so I would think you are right in suspecting a dodgy earth.
Orangebean wrote:
The Direnza one you mention Gilbertd could probably be made to fit with some creative plumbing.
Or creative alloy welding maybe? The only difference between a GEMS and Thor rad is the position of the top hose outlet. My car had a Thor rad fitted when I got it and a two piece, home made, top hose. There's an Allmakes on mine which has been there for 7 years and something like 130,000 miles and I've noticed over the last few days that the gauge has been climbing slightly while slogging the 1,500m to the top of the mountain. Nano showed that it was hitting 99 degrees by the time I'd got to the top. There'll be a Direnza going on mine very shortly.
I would suspect all three wires came out of the main loom at the same point. You should be able to find three gnawed off ends there somewhere.
Single one is the temperature gauge sender for the dash. The wire should be a Green/Blue and goes back to pin 1 on C217, a 20 way white connector under the dash. The one with two connections is the cooling fan switch and should have two wires to it, one being a black wire going to ground, the other a Blue/Purple that goes back to the fan control module and condenser fan control relay via the condenser control diode.
Shame they don't do one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIRENZA-TWIN-CORE-ALUMINIUM-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-P38-V8-4-0-4-6-94/350591602189 for the Thor, only GEMS and diesel......
I don't know of anyone that has bought the EAS V4 although I considered it initially. Despite people saying the the free version was unstable and not that good, I never had a problem with it, possibly due to using it on a geriatric Panasonic Toughbook with a proper RS232 port rather than trying to use USB and a dongle. Looking at the screenshots of the V4, it shows a tab for the HEVAC which was one thing I wanted as the book symbol appearing intermittently with no real clue why was annoying me. However, in the specs it doesn't mention the HEVAC at all. I emailed Storey and asked him if it did the HEVAC. He came back, admittedly after a few days, to say that he hadn't yet got it working with the HEVAC and it was a 'work in progress' and would be added at a later date. Reading between the lines on the other forum it seemed that a 'work in progress' meant that it might be introduced at some point in the future or, more likely, would be forgotten about until he released V5 in exchange for an even greater amount of hard earned. At that point I decided to discount it and save my pennies for a Nanocom. Colin from Blackbox Solutions who designed the Nanocom reckons the HEVAC is one of the hardest modules to crack anyway but he's proved it can be done with the Nano.
Bring it on with a spurious connector, I had a Classic LSE prior to the P38 so have a bit of experience with them.
super4 wrote:
do you think EAS v4 it can do things like reset idle of the TPS ?
The blurb clearly states that it can reset adaptive fuel values so if it can't reset the TPS, I'd ask for my money back. TPS idle voltage is one of the adaptive values along with long and short term fuel trims.
GEMS (Lucas Generic Engine Management System) is only partially OBD compliant so doesn't log misfire codes so the EAS V4, Nanocom or a generic code reader won't show them. It might report too rich or too lean codes as a result of a misfire but that is about all. As full OBD compliance didn't become mandatory in the EU until 2000 I strongly suspect that is why the Thor version was developed with an ECU that is fully compliant.
When the throttle is fully closed the butterfly should be exactly at right angles to the intake so it is closing it off fully (or as best it can). If the stop or part of the linkage that bears against the stop wears, it will allow it to go beyond fully closed so start opening the opposite way. So you will have a partially open throttle which, as you press the pedal will first of all close before it starts to open again. Nothing, other than your right foot, controls the throttle opening. Idle speed is controlled by the ECU so with the throttle closed so no air passing through it and the closed throttle voltage from the TPS being correct, it will adjust the IAV to get the idle speed correct. If there is air getting through the throttle butterfly it will simply close the IAV a bit more to keep the idle where it should be (RAVE says idle on a GEMS should be 700 +- 20 rpm but reading the settings on mine, the ECU is set for a base idle of 625 rpm). As you open the throttle, the butterfly starts to open up, the TPS voltage rises and the ECU tells the IAV to open to give instant throttle response. If the butterfly has gone over centre, the throttle is actually closing initially but the TPS voltage is rising so the IAV has to be opened much further to try to get the revs where the ECU is trying to get them to. Then you get a slight hesitation on tiny throttle openings before the revs rise further and you'll find it virtually impossible to hold the revs at 1,000 rpm for instance, it will be at idle or higher than that as you can't balance the butterfly opening and TPS voltage to achieve those revs. Admittedly, at 120k miles, I wouldn't expect the stop to have worn but you never know.
and of course you aren't programming the fob to match the car but programming the car to match the fob(s) so you'd have to swap the blades over and you'd never be able to get a replacement fob if you ever needed one as it would no longer match the VIN. As Marty says, it can be done but is probably likely to cause further problems down the line.
Steam cleaning the engine is possible and shouldn't harm any of the sensors if you are careful. Where you don't want any damp is in the fusebox or ECU.
The main dealer were probably assuming the high idle was due to the throttle butterfly either sticking open or the stop having worn and allowed it to go over centre. In the case of the latter you get a flat spot at very small throttle openings as it is fractionally open, then closes before opening again. There's nothing about it in the P38 version of RAVE but there is in that for the Classic. I had to give mine a tweak at around 300,000 miles. The stop is loctited in so takes a lot of force (feeling like too much) to get it to move and it is only a tiny hex (2mm from memory but maybe 3mm). Page from the Classic manual is below but bear in mind if you do decide to do it, you'll need to reset the TPS again.
The gasket is only a thin paper one to prevent an air leak. I've never had one either and just put a smear of grease on the back of the TPS.
No, I got it the wrong way round. Zirconia are standard 0-1V and used on the Thor, Titania are 5-0V and used on GEMS. Chris needs Zirconia, so needs to have a black, a grey and two white wires. What confuses me at times is that my GEMS has both, the two standard 5-0V Titania to drive the petrol system and a 0-1V Zirconia to drive the LPG system. Confusing but it at least means I have two totally independent fuel systems so if one packs up it doesn't affect the other.
Dave, if it's an early latch with the three separate switches, CPC Farnell do them but, as Marty say's, if it's the later one with all three potted together as a block, then you'd need to improvise. If it's a drivers latch you have, one from an MGF is the same and interchangeable. The Ascot had burnt out central locking motors on both front doors and I got a pair of latches from an MG to cannibalise. Passenger one is different and only has one microswitch but the drivers one is only slightly different (one extra wire which you can snip off and ignore) but will fit and work fine.
If the sensors have a black, a grey and two white wires, they are Zirconia and only suitable for GEMS, if they have a black, a yellow, a red and a white, they are Titania and suitable for a Thor. If you've got the wrong ones in it will have detected sensor values that are out of spec and be running a default (rich) fuel map. When you come to the MoT, the emissions will be high so a fail.
If it isn't, elongate them further. It needs to move clockwise as you look at it from the front.
They mount using the studs straight through the mounting plate on the chassis with a couple of nuts (which invariably have to be cut off with the angle grinder if you want to change one). The studs are usually just bolts pressed through the plastic so could probably be pressed out if you had to. The instructions would be far clearer with a picture.....
It clearly says that it will do the adaptive reset but what it doesn't say it will do is show live data so you can't see the lambda sensors flip flopping as they should, you can't have a readout of revs against air flow, etc, all useful things to have when trying to do diagnostics on a modern fuel injected car. I've owned my P38 for 7 years now and for the first 5 I used the free EASUnlock software and a generic code reader, which would do live data, before buying the Nanocom. I bought it solely because it could reset the adaptive values (so I could set my TPS back where it should be and not twisted round on elongated mounting holes to get round the very same problem you currently have) and also read faults on the HEVAC, ABS, SRS and BeCM.
The problem you have currently is that when you first start it the idle air valve is at the default position for idle, then it reads from the TPS, sees a higher voltage, assumes you have given it a bit of throttle and opens it up to give you the high idle. Stop procrastinating and take a drill to the mounting holes. You can always reset it back to where it should be once you have the ability to reset the values.
He's not got duff readings so gearshift won't be affected. His readings are correct other than the minimum value expected can't be achieved by the TPS so while the ECU is expecting to see something in the region of 0.4 - 5.0V it can only output 0.7 - 5.0V so at idle it's wrong but correct everywhere else. What he will find is that with a high idle, downshifts will be clunky.