Yuck, that one has definitely had something inside it. Water in the vent hole or someone has already tried filling it with WD40 or the like. Normally they are dry inside or at least should be.
I've want to call in at Marshall's sometime today to get the EKA code for another car I have here, I'll drop you a text when I'm in the area.
It's detecting a fault of some sort but you need diagnostics plugging in to find out what. What time do you have lunch, I can drop in to you at work and plug the Nanocom in to see what it is saying if you want.
Give it a squirt of contact cleaner down the hole where the wires go in and another squirt down the breather tube hole. It might work, you never know. but I'd grab another if you can get one from the scrappy.
No idea but I did buy the 98 octane good stuff. I must admit, the exhaust is a bit smelly when running on petrol so it may well be decomposing. Might be worth bunging a bit of fresh in there. What would you recommend? Tesco 99 or do I get some of the gold plated Shell stuff?
Orangebean wrote:
I'm spoiled by the blue one that starts and runs from cold on gas. The black one has the depressing dropping petrol gauge even though its running on gas. You actually use quite a lot of petrol (relative to the blue one) if you only do short runs several times a day.
That is why I say to set the delay as short as possible. Doing lots of short runs, meant the SE was using more petrol than gas as it insisted on running on petrol for the first minute every time it was started. Like you, the white one on a singlepoint runs on gas from stone cold, the petrol in the tank has been in there since I filled up last September in Latvia.......
Threshold revs want to be pretty low, the revs on my SE were set at 2,000 rpm and if you are driving it gently they never got that high, I had to wait until the lights showed it was ready to change over then drop it into neutral and rev it. So you probably want to set something like 1,300 rpm. Temp for changeover was the one thing that was correct on the SE settings, again set it low, 35-40 degrees will get you running on gas as soon as the cold start enrichment phase has ended. If it runs a bit rough as soon as it changes over, raise it a little. Petrol-gas delay wants to be as low as you can get it. I found on the SE it was set at 60 seconds so even when the engine was fully hot, it insisted on running on petrol for a minute before it even thought about changing over when in reality it could have changed over immediately. Overlap is the delay between turning on the gas and turning off the petrol. That's going to vary on different systems but try 500mS if that is an option. If it tries to die at changeover, increase it a bit until changeover is smooth.
This is what I found with the eGas system on the SE so the settings and options may be different on an AEB system, but the theory is the same just the available settings may be different.
My boss bought his son a socket set and a Jaguar XJS for his 10th birthday.......
It probably was as I've heard that these days they are only quoting a couple of hours to do the job. There were a very few early base spec cars (usually diesels) that didn't get AC but almost all did. I did the blend motors on mine not long after I got it and couldn't see what all the fuss was about, I just took the side panel off the centre console and got to them from there. Then realised that as a special order for Plod, mine doesn't have the ducts down the sides to feed the rear vents (no point in having vents when the rear is going to be full of traffic cones). Did the heater O rings on a LHD car a couple of days ago and the duct put up a bit of a fight, but gave in eventually. With that out you can see the blend motors from the side but with it still in place you do need to go in from above (which on a LHD car would involve removing the passenger air bag).
You can get at both the drivers side ones by taking the instrument panel out but you will need a small ratchet No 2 Pozidrive screw bit. Passenger one can be got at by dropping the glovebox out. Both are fiddly but there is no need to take the dash out. Have a look at this http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html
All three blend motors are iffy and there's a problem with the compressor clutch. It may be that it is down to a lack of refrigerant or that the HEVAC can't detect the load of the clutch. The latter happens if someone tries fitting a relay to power the compressor rather than direct from the HEVAC (I know as I tried it.....).
When you take it in to get the AC re-gassed the first thing every place I've ever been to has done has been to pressurise it with Nitrogen and see if it holds pressure. I had to replace the condenser on mine and also had a leaking hose on the compressor. If it does need a condenser, be very careful as it is easy to shear off the ends leaving you with a lump stuck inside the union.
For the cruise, obviously check the hoses for leaks but if you don't find any there's a test procedure in the RAVE ETM at the end of section B5.
Yeah, the breather hole is on the top but the pipe falls off. As it is directly below the AC drain on that side, water drops straight into it. When that happens you usually get all sorts of weird readings where it shows you to be in a completely different gear to what the lever says. If you do replace it, which is probably your best option, stick a bit of washer hose on the breather tube and loop it over so it points downwards.
With it fully slack and the gear lever in the Neutral position, you should be able to get the lights to swing through from Reverse to Drive by turning the switch. You can open it up but be very careful. There are three little plastic shuttles in there that have a habit of falling out and hiding in the most awkward places.
But, as I said before, the neutral light should be lit when the Y switch is grounded and the other two are open. That would make you think that the Y switch is not closing (so not giving a ground signal) but as Reverse is X and Y both grounded, Reverse would read as first because first is X only grounded. No output from any switches (which you would get when in Neutral if Y has failed) is not a valid combination so would bring on the Gearbox Fault message and no lights. It almost sounds as though someone has been in there before. Is the switch riveted together or have the rivets been drilled out and replaced with screws? In which case all bets are off and you'd best start looking for another XYZ switch.
Sounds like the brushes are worn right down. Snip the tie wrap that secures the plastic trunking that the wiring loom passes through and you can move the loom out of the way to get the drivers fan out. It's tight, and one of the screws is a bit awkward to get to, but it can be done.
Actual temperature isn't important with the LPG sensor, as long as it is showing that the reducer is warm enough that the coolant isn't going to freeze. You could even short it out so it thinks it is very hot and manually change over once the engine has had a few minutes to warm up. I must admit, I've always thought that a variable resistance can't be that accurate anyway, a few Ohms one way or another is going to be interpreted as a difference of a few degrees. My intake air temperatures always shows about 10 degrees lower than ambient on the Nano and I can't believe there's that much chill factor.
Oh yes, I also confirmed the heavily compressed temperature gauge yesterday. Spent the day at Woburn Safari Park and while sitting idling in a very long queue while monkeys put dirty footprints on my, and everyone else's, bonnet and roof, watching an Astra start to get very hot, I looked at my temperature gauge. Instead of the usual 12 o'clock, it was showing about 1 minute past, nowhere near the red yet but heading in that direction and higher than normal. Whipped the Nano out of the pocket on the back of the passenger seat and plugged it in. Coolant temperature showing as a steady 104 degrees. Considering it had been idling for well over an hour by then (following an 80 mph thrash to get there), that seemed about right. It stayed at between 102 and 104 for the next half hour or so until we started moving and it dropped down to 96 degrees as soon as we got moving by which time the gauge was back at 12 o'clock. Out of interest, I started it from cold this morning with the Nano plugged in and it was at 12 o'clock as soon as it reached 85 degrees. So anything between 85 and 102 degrees is shown as normal and it only starts to rise when it gets above that.
No need to pull the dash just for blend motors. With the side panel off the centre console and the instrument binnacle out, you can get to the ones on the drivers side easily enough, glovebox out for the passenger side. You'll need either a right angle pozidrive screwdriver or a small ratchet with a pozidrive bit. Others will say that if you pull the dash you can then get the whole heater box out and replace the foam in the joints in the ducts, free up any sticky flaps, etc but you can get to most of the joints and seal them with duct tape (possibly the only time you will ever us duct tape for it's intended purpose) and I've not found one with flaps that sticky that they have warranted that amount of work. Have a look at this http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html for blend motors and this http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/electrical/fusebox.html for the fusebox.
But if you've been running on LPG since then and it still isn't correct, they will have drifted off again.