If my experience with my Land Rover dealer is anything to go by, you will need to go in with a V5 in your name and your driving licence to prove it is your car. Although some might, they won't normally give it to you over the phone.

Might be as simple as wheel balance, could be shocks, steering damper, ball joints, really anything on the front end. You just need to give it a good look with a crowbar and see if you can find anything with any play in it.

Another £25 ish each for a rebuild kit for both and you've got a complete spare system for around a ton. Got to be worth having. If they are any good you can stick them on yours and then have another go at doing a rebuild at your leisure.

You're right, clicking the faults box appears to do nothing but if you had faults showing it will have cleared them.

Shame you're not coming to the Summer Camp, there's a geriatric Panasonic Toughbook (with a serial port) and EAS cable that live in my car.

Are you using the USB to serial adapter as that is usually what causes comms to drop, ideally you need a computer with a serial port but there aren't many of those about these days. The button marked Faults (the one that just looks like a box rather than a button) should clear any even if you haven't read them first. You'll probably need to click the Unlock EAS button, then Faults. Clicking on the Stop button and then shutting the program down is the proper way to exit it although I had a fault once that kept re-appearing if I did that. I found that if I just unplugged that cable, the fault stayed gone. It's got to be worth a try as RSW EASUnlock is the only stand alone software that exists, the only alternatives are A Nanocom, Faultmate, etc which cost considerably more.

We'll be there for the Morat gastronomic treats. We'll also bring some plastic or card plates (depending on what my local Tesco Extra has on the shelf), a couple of disposable barbecues (in case you run out of cooking space) and a few burgers and sausages to add to the feast.

I would think someone will have time to drive your car and there's no shortage of poor surfaces. In fact, there's a distinct lack of decent ones......

Normally the largest tank that will fit in a P38 wheelwell is a 90 litre, 4 hole, filled toroidal so it would be interesting to know what you actually have. I've not known any tank to not shut off with a clunk, I suppose how well soundproofed it is would make a difference to how loud it is. If they don't and the pump just slows down and stops, that normally is a sign that the level stop valve isn't working. Multi tank installations will often 'machine gun' when they are full as the valves will chatter as the pressure between tanks is equalising. I believe you have a Disco Brian and they are often fitted with twin tanks due to the lack of a wheelwell so that might explain why one of yours is noisy.

That tank should have a plate welded to it with the makers name, water capacity (the maximum that will fit in to fill it completely) and date of manufacture. There may be other information on the plate but the only other thing you would be expected to need to know is if it is a 0 or 30 degree tank as that will dictate what multivalve it requires.

Smiler wrote:

Do we need sharp scissors for the headlining?

Yes, I'm planning on digging them out this evening, I know I've got a big pair of dressmaking scissors somewhere. But if you bring some along too, many hands make light work and all that. A Stanley knife is also needed for cutting the smaller holes (for the sunvisor mounts and the like) but I've got that and a pack of new blades.

Get the headlining shells lined up for us then. Dina has been working early shift this week so been having to get up at 04:30 every day and claims she wants a bit of a lie in on Saturday. That means we won't get there until around 11:00 so if there's two or three cleaned up and ready to go, we can get stuck in as soon as we get there.

But tomorrow is Friday? Are you pair having a private session before the rest of us get there?

For the brake pipes I'll bung a roll of Kunifer and pipe flaring tool in the boot.

Looks like a long list but most of it can be sorted over the weekend I would think. Your headlining is already on the list, diagnostics only take a couple of minutes and I'm sure Marty will be able to sort out the setting on the sunroof while the headlining is out.

gordonjcp wrote:

I need to do the headlining in both my P38 and the CX ;-)

Get yourself down to Swindon this weekend then........

The O ring is definitely 2mm but the recess it sits in is slightly deeper. It's a nice fit on the motor though.

They can be adjusted but they are never very good, much better to rely on the trip meter. The first LPG car I had was a Saab 900, that showed 3/4 full no matter if it was full, empty or anywhere in between.

My SE, despite not being used, suddenly developed a strong smell of petrol when I started it to move it recently. That was a leak on the return but from above the fuel tank. I dropped the tank (no need to remove it fully, just drop it down at the front) and both pipes were rusted through where they run along above the fuel tank. I replaced the whole length and if the exposed bit is rusted on yours I suspect the bit you can't see will be no better.

The tank should only ever fill to 80% water capacity to allow space for expansion which will be full of vapour anyway. The tank will also have a safety expansion valve on it that will vent if, for example, you fill up to the brim and then leave the car parked in sunlight on a hot day. As 1 litre of liquid Propane will vaporise and form 270 litres of vapour, the cloud from a venting safety valve is pretty impressive and best to be avoided.

There will be a float on an arm inside the tank which operates the shut off valve and you will not miss the clunk when the pump shuts off, if the pump just stops it is because it can no longer supply enough pressure to get any more into the tank. Is it a 4 hole (4 separate bits bolted to the tank to deal with inlet, outlet, etc) or a single hole with a round brass multivalve held in place with a ring of bolts?

I've got one that was on the pump motor that burnt out and that is still round and not squashed. Assuming you are talking about the big one that goes around the end of the motor, measuring that with a ruler (as I've put my dial caliper down somewhere and can't see it at the moment) I'd say that it is just over 2mm thickness. Definitely not as big as 3mm and certainly not 4mm. I can dig the pump body out later and get some pictures if you need.

If the fill stop is working correctly the pump should cut off with a very audible clunk, if it just stops pumping, then the stop valve is faulty. If it fills right to the top, again the fill stop is faulty (or the pump is ripping you off).

As said, gauges are very inaccurate, mine stays on 4 lights until I've done 50 miles, drops pretty rapidly until it is showing the red light at around 100-105 miles but I get between 165 miles (towing a 3 tonne trailer) and 230 miles (continuous run at a steady 65-70mph) from a 65-67 litre fill on my 80 litre tank. Average just running around town is 185-190 and on a run at 75-80 mph around 200. I just run until I'm getting close to where I think it is about to run out or until it actually does but as I've got 5 filling stations within 5 miles of me, refilling isn't too much of a problem if I'm at home. On a run I aim to fill up around the 170-190 mile mark to be sure I don't run out.

I filled recently at a Morrisons and the pump seemed very slow and just stopped before it reached the fill stop. I knew it should have taken more than it did and I suspect that was a fault with the pump rather than anything else.

It could be the matrix or it could be that there is still a lump of silicone in there causing the leak. Did you make sure that the pipes were properly seated? I always get the screw in and then give the pipes a wiggle to make sure they have seated properly.