If you've got a friendly MoT test station, call in there and set them up on the beam tester. Assuming the ones you got are the same, or similar to those OB bought, they need to be properly alinged so they give the correct beam pattern. Bodywork looks shiny though.....

Thought you'd forgotten when I got home and saw it was still there, then noticed most of it was still there except the white nylon bit was missing.

Anyway, tonight's update (after getting home from attacking Mother's garden with petrol powered machinery). Postman delivered a sunroof motor this morning so I went out there to fit it. First off it did nothing when connected to the dangling plug and the button pressed. Then realised I had told the BeCM that it didn't have a sunroof to stop it whinging at me that it wasn't set. Enabled it and had another go. Motor turned when I pressed the button so attempted to fit it. To start with it wouldn't slot into place as the cables had moved and the ends that fit into slots in the motor housing didn't line up. Adjusted them so it slotted in then found that the supplied fixing screws were thinner than the holes they were supposed to fit in. Eventually found some screws that were a) thin enough to go through the mountings and b) thick enough to bite in the holes they should go in. Motor fitted and time for a test It made all the right grunting noises but then stopped. Sunroof didn't move not even with a bit of assistance, so it looks like it has got to come out so I can see what has jammed the mechanism. Good job took notice when Marty was whipping them out at Summer Camp.

Which reminds me. My set of Torx bits is complete, the only thing is, the T20 bit is longer than all the others. So someone has a short T20 in their set.....

Was going to reply on the dark side but figured OB would point you over here anyway. Like you, I run my P38 every day and have done for the last 7 years. For the first 2 I didn't trust it as far as I could throw it but once you get stuff sorted, as long as you do it right, it stays sorted. Use it, enjoy it and sooner or later you'll buy another because they are very additive........

Sorry mate, wrong forum. Not that it would help anyway......

Think what it would stand you at if you bought it and imported it!!!

No problem, just let me know when.

I'm surprised the tax is so much higher on LPG in Holland when you look at the price of the fuel. In Holland LPG is around 0.75 Euro a litre, so much the same as here (if not slightly more) whereas a couple of miles down the road in Belgium, it's half that. So in Holland you convert a car to LPG, save only a small amount on fuel costs but pay more in tax. Seems very odd and makes you wonder why LPG is as common there as it is, most LPG systems up until recently were made in either Italy or Holland.

Don't think you can tell which fob you have although if it can be done, Marty is your man. The key doesn't need programming, just syncing which you can do yourself (on a 2002 it should do it automatically when you put it in the ignition) and the last time anyone got one through a Land Rover main agent, it was something like £148. Apparently, LR can only supply key 1 these days so you may end up with 2 identical ones. OK unless you want to use them to control the memory seats for two different people.

Too late, Morat spotted it already and posted a link to it. No, I'll leave that one to someone else. MoT fail points are pretty insignificant, it's the chequebook on the HEVAC, the Impco LPG system (bloody expensive for bits if it needs any) and all the other things it will need that would take the time. I'll only buy one that I'd actually want to keep and that one just doesn't do anything for me for some reason.

I know they've got better, all my company vehicles for over 20 years have been diesels so I speak from experience. Modern ones do have a reasonable power delivery but still run out of puff when you try to get them to rev and a car engine with a red line at 5,000 rpm is just wrong in my opinion. I know the P38 isn't a revvy engine but it's a V8 so makes up for it, a 4 or 6 really needs to be able to be able to scream up to 7 or 8 thousand if not higher. Compare a diesel with the power delivery of a Toyota VVTi, a Honda VTec or any modern performance engine or the sound made by an Audi RS, a V8 Vantage or an AMG Merc and they really can't compare.

and they stink The VAG TDI ones seem worse, Try sitting on a motorcycle in traffic with the exhaust fumes from one of them wafting up inside your crash helmet and you'll know what I mean......

That's the one I've got going spare...... Simple enough to change just one of them too.

Second one looks viable, first one simply looks overpriced. But I've got 3 and there is no way that I am getting another (not until at least one of those I've got has been sold anyway).

OK, so what will you be driving down to the south of France in September then? I'll still buy you a beer and might even let you have a drive of my P38 just so you can remind yourself of what you are missing.....

That is one of my biggest complaints about diesels. OK , so I can't stand the smell and, while they may be quick, I don't like the power delivery and driving dynamics but the main thing is the noise. When did anyone ever rev a diesel engine with a big silly grin on their face because of the noise it makes? Same goes for electric and hybrid cars. I know someone who bought a BMW i8, 350 bhp with performance to match but no soundtrack. BMW have thought about it though and you can programme the sound system to give an appropriate soundtrack.. You can even choose what car you want it to sound like. Problem is, as the owner said, only the driver hears it, you can't drop the windows and floor it through a tunnel and let everyone else have the benefit. Or is that considered anti-social and childish? In which case I'm both........ .

There's a nut that holds the solenoid coil over a brass tube, so taking that off allows the coil to be removed. Inside the brass tube is a steel plunger with a tapered end and a spring so when power is applied to the coil it moves and unplugs the hole and allows gas through. The brass tube has a hex at the base so it can be unscrewed BUT, there even with the tank solenoid closed there will be a length of pipe from the tank that is full of liquid Propane. Liquid expands by a factor of x270 when it vaporises, so 1 litre of liquid will give 270 litres of vapour. A 3m length of 8mm pipe will hold around three quarters of a litre of liquid so you'll get quite a lot of vapour and you need to slacken off the union to allow it to escape first or the brass tube will come out like a bullet.

Vacuum line off wouldn't affect changeover, just, as bpsm says, cause it to run rough..

The pressure sensor could be failing, there's two types, an AEB013 which is known for failing with age and the replacement, the AEB025 which is much more reliable and can be fitted as a replacement for the earlier one if you use an adapter cable. See the second row down on this page http://tinleytech.co.uk/product-category/lpg-parts/electrical/pressure-sensors/?widget_search=yes

The temperature sensor in the reducer is the one that gives the T Reduc figure at bottom left of the screen so that is showing everything fine up in the 70 degrees area. The one in the gas line gives the T Gas figure just above it and that is fine too. What isn't is the gas pressure. In Pic1, it's showing 1.38 bar, but in Pics 2 and 3, it has plummeted down to 0.73 and 0.46 bar. It appears that as the revs go up, the pressure drops and that is what will cause the system to switch back to petrol, it thinks you are running out of gas. Might be a clogged filter but it would need to be really clogged to have that amount of an effect, more likely one of the solenoids isn't opening properly. There's two, one on the tank and one on the reducer. Might be that a coil has gone partially short circuit or the plunger is sticking. Check the coil resistance (expect to see around 11-15 Ohms) plunger can be removed and cleaned on the reducer solenoid after you have slackened the feed pipe to allow the gas in the pipe from the tank to escape. Tank solenoid isn't so easy with a tank full of gas although you should have a manual shut off which will allow you to do the same.

Tried it on the Ascot yesterday. Locked it on the fob but, as it isn't working, the drivers door didn't lock, opened the drivers door and the hazards started flashing to tell me the alarm had been set off. Put the key in the ignition, turned it on and it came up with Engine Immobilised, Press Remote and the engine wouldn't turn over. Pressed the remote and it then turned over and started. So no option to enter the EKA, just use the remote. Not so good if you don't have a working remote or the signal is being blocked.

When it does it, check the reducer/vaporiser temperature. If there is a blockage or air lock in there as soon as it starts running on gas, the temperature will plummet and it will switch back. With the software running, you should be able to see the reducer temp anyway.

Yes but only if it has been programmed to move to a different position when you select reverse. If someone has previously programmed it so the mirror position in reverse is the same as when not in reverse, it won't move. Or if neither of them move, that feature has been turned off like how it tells you in the owners handbook.