It's a new toy, get it fitted, the other bits are only cosmetic!!

Martrim do a kit at £60 http://www.martrim.co.uk/catalogue/landrover-headlining-kit.html which comes with 3 tins of glue and you do need all three. I only used 2 tins on mine and there are a couple of areas where it needed more. There's no plastic trees involved in the headlining, it's all held in place by the pillar trims and the sunvisors, interior lights, etc that are screwed the the roof through the headlining. Didn't break anything when taking mine out. Showed this thread to Dina and told her that headlinings were the main thing and her comment was ,"No problem, we are experts at that now".

I'm in France the previous weekend but would like to get up there. Even if only to swell the numbers of P38's......

I'll (we'll) be there too as long as the chosen date doesn't clash with anything. I actually did a bit more dragging stuff around in preparation last weekend. Bloody heating oil tank sprung a leak so I had a new one to install. New one is smaller but still weighed 140kgs although lifting it on an engine crane got it into position easily enough. Getting the old one out involved a trolley jack, two long lengths of timber, a 5 tonne breaking strain towing strop and a P38......

Lucky they had one on the shelf but not a bad price for a new one too. That's why I carry a spare starter in the boot when I go on my trips around Europe. Even if the rest of the car is perfect, with a dead starter you aren't going anywhere. You can't bump or tow start an auto and they stopped fitting starting handles years ago (not that I would fancy trying to start a V8 with a handle anyway!).

Bleeding the rears is very easy as they are only on the power circuit. You'll get nothing out of them using the conventional pumping the pedal method, all you do is open the bleed nipple, apply slight pressure to the pedal and turn the ignition on so the ABS pump runs. That'll blast the fluid through in no time.

If it looks like it's been leaking, then you might as well do it. But, if it all looks OK, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I understand the blend motors are the same on a Peugeot 406 too. No idea if the heater box bears any resemblance to ours but it makes sense when it was made by Valeo.

They are right, it's generic set that includes gaskets and O rings for all models, including the Classic engine which has a distributor and a different thermostat arrangement. So that explains a couple of the O rings and the metal gasket. The funny shaped gasket at the front, on the left, is for the throttle body heater and I've always assumed the other 2 gaskets are for the same but on a Thor. No idea what the big and small square sided O rings are for but they may come in handy one day for something. I believe Thor injector O rings are a different size to GEMS ones so that may be what the smaller ones are for.

Ferryman wrote:

Well I'm not too paranoia about it, the MCS (Maintenance Check Sheet) says refresh box every 2 years or 24K miles, the filter only after the first 24K miles.

Hmm, you're right, it does. Better change mine then. It has only been done once in the time I've owned it and that must be at least 80,000 miles ago........

Here's where the bolt plugging the hole that was drilled and tapped for the injectors on mine is. You need to get them as close to the petrol injector as you can but ideally not getting in the way of any of the manifold bolts. You don't really want to be tugging and heaving at a pipe on a brass nozzle just so you can lift the manifold off, you want to be able to take it off complete.

I've never got around to going any further with mine, I'm still running with the bolts plugging the holes and the old singlepoint (Leonardo system, the same a Gordon's) fitted. I've got a multipoint system that I could fit but am not sure if the effort and advantages outweigh the disadvantages of the singlepoint. My original intention was to find some injectors that were available in banks of 2 and 4. Fit a 4 way bank to the centre plenum bolt on bank 2 and the fit two banks of 2 on the corner plenum bolts at each end on the other side. That way there would be a pair of injectors either side of the intake and it would keep all the hoses short and the same length.

Reminds me of the Ericsson car kit we had in company vehicles many years ago. Rip it out......

Simple enough even if a little messy, see here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/413-preparing-for-autobox-oilchange

Here's the TSB and what you should be looking for. An engine from a late GEMS could well be one from the same batch.

Don't you just love the simple ones. Not only that, but the satisfaction of knowing it's now all good every time you remove the key.

Not having a diesel to compare with I can't help although I know of one car that wouldn't move at all when parked nose down. It was working perfectly when parked on a steep driveway and then had to be towed back up onto the level. Once on the level it drove fine again and that was down to it being seriously low on transmission fluid.

A '96 should have the dipstick on the gearbox but you need to check it by the correct method. Instructions are all in RAVE...... Oh sorry, had a TH moment there. Check it when cold, start the engine, run through all gears a couple of times and then put it in neutral and check the dipstick with the engine still running.

The pads shouldn't wear, or if they do, it'll be an oval wear patch as they are designed to slide over the top of the valve. There was a TSB for the sinking inserts though, it affects chassis numbers from WA382672 to WA391018 (so early to mid '98) and the symptom is a tappety noise which you wouldn't normally get with the hydraulic followers. The car that this came from is the one my mate in France has and is slap in the middle of the affected range. He had two that had gone like that, one worse than the other, but you could definitely hear the worse of the two at idle.

Although I did suggest brake cleaner (purely because the contact cleaner I have seems to leave a slight residue). If you've got a contact cleaner that evaporates completely and doesn't leave a residue, then use that. I went a step further and took the lock apart, hence mention of the little spring and various other bits flying out.

The microswitch that deals with the Key In message is at the bottom of the keyslot and sticks due to a build up of dust and general crud. If you look you should be able to see a small strip of metal that the key pushes against. A good blast of brake cleaner should clean that out and not leave any residue for dust to stick to in the future. I've had my lock barrel out and it's an interesting exercise. There's a tiny spring that will fly out and you'll spend hours a) trying to work out where it came from, and b) trying to get it to stay in place while you assemble the lock again. You may well find that once you've cleaned out where the switch is, the steering lock will start to work again anyway as the brake cleaner will have gone further down and cleaned everything out. A bit of graphite powder in the lock itself will then keep everything moving nicely.

mace wrote:

Steel inserts, is that the rounded socket that the push rod engages with? I'd say they look sunken, but not knowing what unsunken is supposed to look like makes it difficult to judge.

That's the ones. This is one that has sunk into the alloy from a car in the batch that suffered the problem. It had two that had sunk but when running it did sound very tappety. Compare yours and if they are all down by the same amount, you are OK.