My SE, despite not being used, suddenly developed a strong smell of petrol when I started it to move it recently. That was a leak on the return but from above the fuel tank. I dropped the tank (no need to remove it fully, just drop it down at the front) and both pipes were rusted through where they run along above the fuel tank. I replaced the whole length and if the exposed bit is rusted on yours I suspect the bit you can't see will be no better.

The tank should only ever fill to 80% water capacity to allow space for expansion which will be full of vapour anyway. The tank will also have a safety expansion valve on it that will vent if, for example, you fill up to the brim and then leave the car parked in sunlight on a hot day. As 1 litre of liquid Propane will vaporise and form 270 litres of vapour, the cloud from a venting safety valve is pretty impressive and best to be avoided.

There will be a float on an arm inside the tank which operates the shut off valve and you will not miss the clunk when the pump shuts off, if the pump just stops it is because it can no longer supply enough pressure to get any more into the tank. Is it a 4 hole (4 separate bits bolted to the tank to deal with inlet, outlet, etc) or a single hole with a round brass multivalve held in place with a ring of bolts?

I've got one that was on the pump motor that burnt out and that is still round and not squashed. Assuming you are talking about the big one that goes around the end of the motor, measuring that with a ruler (as I've put my dial caliper down somewhere and can't see it at the moment) I'd say that it is just over 2mm thickness. Definitely not as big as 3mm and certainly not 4mm. I can dig the pump body out later and get some pictures if you need.

If the fill stop is working correctly the pump should cut off with a very audible clunk, if it just stops pumping, then the stop valve is faulty. If it fills right to the top, again the fill stop is faulty (or the pump is ripping you off).

As said, gauges are very inaccurate, mine stays on 4 lights until I've done 50 miles, drops pretty rapidly until it is showing the red light at around 100-105 miles but I get between 165 miles (towing a 3 tonne trailer) and 230 miles (continuous run at a steady 65-70mph) from a 65-67 litre fill on my 80 litre tank. Average just running around town is 185-190 and on a run at 75-80 mph around 200. I just run until I'm getting close to where I think it is about to run out or until it actually does but as I've got 5 filling stations within 5 miles of me, refilling isn't too much of a problem if I'm at home. On a run I aim to fill up around the 170-190 mile mark to be sure I don't run out.

I filled recently at a Morrisons and the pump seemed very slow and just stopped before it reached the fill stop. I knew it should have taken more than it did and I suspect that was a fault with the pump rather than anything else.

It could be the matrix or it could be that there is still a lump of silicone in there causing the leak. Did you make sure that the pipes were properly seated? I always get the screw in and then give the pipes a wiggle to make sure they have seated properly.

Leather? What's leather? No, no leather on mine or on the SE for that matter. All I do is use a blunt screwdriver to lift and lever outwards the centre console sides so they can be slid down and back.

I was assuming you had a cable and the free RSW software, I wouldn't touch the EAS without them as if you do cock up you've no way of knowing what you did or resetting it to get yourself out of it. Cable is cheap enough and comes with a link to download the software http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Range-Rover-P38-Air-Suspension-Reset-Cable-Software-Eas-/162563682774 or you can download it from http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/component/content/article/82-uncategorised/53-range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock and follow these instructions and make your own cable http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/component/content/article/82-uncategorised/54-range-rover-p38a-eas-cable

AC didn't work on mine when I first got it so I had it vacuum tested and gassed but the compressor still didn't kick in. I suspected one or other pressure switch but found that unplugging them and giving a squirt of contact cleaner sorted it. I didn't take the bumper off, you can get to them from underneath if you have double jointed arms.

Reset it, going to high is a sign of a soft fault.

My best time was 25 minutes but that was on mine that doesn't have the duct (plod didn't feel it necessary to provide air conditioned air to a load of traffic cones) but on ones I've done since, I've done the same as you except I've never taken the switchpack or gear lever surround out. Why did you need to do that?

I've got half a set. I started cutting up the 30mm nylon rod I bought over a year ago last week but it certainly buggers up Wickes hacksaw blades so have high and standard height blocks but not the smaller ones. If anyone wants to check mine while I'm getting high on headlining glue they are quite welcome though.

If it's been standing for a long time, chances are the oil control rings have gummed into their grooves so aren't doing anything. Simplest thing to try first is wait until you don't need to use it for a few days, take the sparkplugs out and fill each bore with diesel. Let that soak for a few days, change the oil and try it then.

and if we can't, can I drag it around just for the hell of it?

Martyuk wrote:

The other half has my second project P38, but that is still moveable so I'll put that outside whilst we are up there

Ooo, Ooo, Ooo, does this mean I'll get the opportunity to drag things around behind mine again?

No idea, I just buy the genuine LR ones, at 6 quid for a pair, it isn't worth mucking around with anything else.

I've had a blocked AC drain in the past and the puddle on the rubber mat formed next to the centre console. This time it's down in the front corner so not that and it only appeared after the car had stood outside in the rain when the AC wasn't being used. Two advantages with having the genuine LR floor mats is that they have a lip around the edge so the water stays on the mat and doesn't get as far as the carpet to soak into that and being rubber you can also see exactly where the water started rather than just having soggy carpets.

Morat wrote:

Will Dina be coming this year or has she seen enough of men looking at old cars and scratching their heads? :)

She certainly is, she's the self proclaimed headlining expert (having helped do mine) and seems to be looking forward to the prospect of doing 7. As long as you keep her fed, she'll keep sticking bits of foam backed cloth to flimsy fibreglass roof shells.

Morat wrote:

Gilbert, did you bring paper plates last time? because that was inspired. I doubt anyone wants to wash up.

I don't remember as Dina dealt with stuff like that, it was her idea to take food in the first place, but we'll bring some this time. Got a couple of the disposable barbecues too in case you need extra cooking space.

I'm booked in the Premier Inn Swindon North, as is OB and possibly Gilbert. There seems to be a pub nearby....

Yup, booked it a few minutes ago.

Not to be left out, I've got a foot bath in mine, a little puddle on the rubber mat on the passenger side. Mine should be simple though as it will be either the pollen filter housing or the self tapper directly above it.

Imperial sockets??? They will probably fit but really you want metric ones, 8, 10 and 13mm being the most common. If it's still got the original rocker cover bolts in they are 8mm but what are termed bi-hex, so you need a 12 point socket, not the usual 6 point you get when you get down to the smaller sizes. I bought one of these sets https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/d60/Socket+Sets/sd2938/Alldrive+Bit+%26+Socket+Set/p30712 which gave me the 8mm socket I needed but the Torx bits have since come in very handy.