That might have a lot to do with it. Standard self tappers but a dollop of RTV or a rubber washer under the heads is a good idea.

Covers for the pollen filters but there is also a self tapper that holds the plastic just above the pollen filter housing, water can get it through that. Or, mas OB says, sunroof drains. Water from the AC drips down on the passenger side next to the centre console and of course the O rings are on the other side.

If you are replacing the flex plate you can't make marks (or you can but they aren't going to do you a lot of good) as the marked flexplate won't be there any more. It's no different to changing a propshaft, they tell you to mark that but if you are fitting a new one, then you can't put it back the same way as it came off.

What can often happen is that the motor starts to gum up so moves slowly. So when it does the self test it doesn't reach the end of the travel soon enough so the HEVAC declares it faulty and no longer tries to move it. A squirt of contact cleaner into the motor and working it back and forth from a 12V supply is often enough to sort it out for at least a couple of years.

I'd say go for the original LR flexplate. Spending over twice as much on something that you don't really need unless you are going for a tuned engine doesn't seem worth the money really.

It didn't seem to when I did the same thing. I opened up the holes on the TPS and turned it to bring the idle down. It was like that for the best part of two years until I bought the Nanocom and was able to reset the values.

8-9th July at Marty's workshop near Marlborough in Wiltshire.

Orangebean wrote:

or even not firing on all 8.

When you rev it about 25 seconds in, it seems to hesitate a bit before the revs pick up. Although it sounds reasonably smooth, it could well be running on 7.

I'm wondering if it could be a camshaft bearing that has spun although there's other noises there that sound like they should be there. Is that running it without the belt because the whistling type noise sounds more like an alternator bearing to me. Shame you can't go back in time and get a recording of it before it started doing it......

It wasn't when I looked at it, but as well as the ones mentioned it was saying it had a Cat Amp/Heater (so I turned that off) and it was showing a weird build date (like, well into the future). Country (not shown on your sheet above) was France but language on the message centre was English (as I could understand it was whinging about the LH Front Window not set and, until I put the EKA in, Engine Immobilised). Don't think UK police was set though or I would have noticed that. Latches, or LH front door latch anyway as that's the only door card I had off, is the 6+1 connector on flying leads type.

When are you on holiday just in case I need to call you while I'm over there with it in bits in front of me? It may be under a tankful of LPG from Calais, and with a Auchan supermarket 10 minutes away with LPG at 70.9 Euro cents a litre (compared with 93.0 on the Autoroute), but if I'm going over I'd like to know I can get everything sorted in one hit.

I think I've now sussed how the coolant pipes should run, it's just that it looked as though it was as it should be rather than having any obvious bodges and joins in the hoses. I think what has been done is that the return hose is the type with a plastic Tee in it for the hose to the reservoir (rather than the moulded one-piece type), the hose that should go from the Tee to the heater has been taken off and the one from the pipe at the back of the engine has been turned through 180 degrees so it connects to the Tee on the return and not to the heater matrix.

When we got there the car was parked at the side of the road where it had been for a few days (sitting on it's bumpstops). Teri tried unlocking it with the key and the alarm immediately went off as she opened the door. She tried the EKA in the lock but no joy so I plugged the Nano in and went straight to the EKA entry bit. That reset the alarm and the engine could be started but didn't operate the central locking. Then I went into the settings and found that passive immobilisation was already off. It was then that I looked at the other settings and found cruise control enabled when it doesn't have cruise control, market not set (although country did say France), wrong engine and gearbox (although the engine options are Early or Late EDC but as I have no idea what is early or late, I picked late) and a couple of other anomalies. Having written those to the BeCM, we had another go at syncing the fob but still no joy, all we did was cause the alarm to go off again and have to enter the EKA again. All doors could be manually unlocked from inside and would then open with the exception of the front passenger door which seemed to completely ignore the position of the lock button. So it might just be that the button has become disconnected (although it felt like it was doing something) or it is superlocked as it wouldn't open from inside or out.

Teri said that the last time she had tried to start it, the alarm hadn't gone off, that is an intermittent thing, so I suspect it is heat related. Until I changed the microswitches in my drivers door I used to sometimes get dancing locks but only in hot weather. Yesterday it was bloody hot so I think a bit of thermal expansion is causing the key switch to not work sometimes. Nano reported it not changing state when the key was turned in the lock and I even had the door panel off to test it at the connector and it definitely isn't doing anything (although the door ajar and CDL switches tested OK). I told her to just use the key and not even attempt to use the fob for the time being.

I've got the next month off work (long story but 5 weeks holiday on full pay can't be refused) so intend going over there to sort it shortly. I'll be needing a LH front door latch, I'll take a RH one too in case it is needed (if you've got one), a drill through the striker thingy to get the door open if it can't be persuaded to unlock itself, I've got a spare EAS compressor rebuild kit but will take a spare complete compressor just in case (I'll pinch the one off my SE), a pair of heater O rings, some bits of hose to plumb the heater matrix back in and I'll also need a LH window regulator and a door striker in case I do have to drill it off. That should give me the opportunity to get everything on it sorted as long as Teri's two huge dogs don't get in my way too much.

The car is a pretty weird spec though. It's the only other one I've ever seen with the same 3 spoke, 7"x16" alloys (rather than the normal 8"x16" or 8"x18") as I have one mine which, along with no cruise control, trip meter, heated windscreen, heated seats or headlamp wash/wipe, would suggest a basic spec yet it has a leather interior and body coloured bumpers. Maybe it's just a French thing......

No immediate rush Chris, I won't be going over there to sort it for probably 3 or 4 weeks. I'll make sure I've got everything I'm going to need to get it sussed so i can take everything I need and get the lot done. One that I didn't mention is that it isn't possible to set the drivers window as the teeth on the end of the regulator have worn and it jumps the teeth when it gets to the top.

Yes, it does look remarkably simple, I was pretty gobsmacked at how little there appeared to be under the bonnet (although that was partly because of the bits that had been taken off, not put back on and left in the car).

On my way back from the Loire valley yesterday we called in and gave a forum members car the once over just outside of Paris. The car, belonging to mymysteri has been the source of much grief to the owner and that, combined with being ripped off by a couple of French Range Rover 'specialists' meant she (yes the owner is a she, something I didn't know until I met her!) was on the verge of getting rid of the car. It's got the odd little niggle but they are causing all sorts of problems. The key switch in the drivers door (LHD car so LH door) doesn't work so the fob won't sync and the EKA can't be entered (Nano to the rescue here), the central locking isn't working (presumably due to the lack of sync) the front passenger (RH) door is superlocked which means the tailgate can't be opened (but hopefully that will sort itself out when the door latch is replaced and it can be synced) and the EAS pump is very tired so takes ages to build enough pressure to get the car to rise from it's bumpstops.

However, the things that I noticed first upon opening the bonnet was a) there's an awful lot of spare room under the bonnet of a LHD diesel and b) there were no pipes attached to the heater matrix. As she'd already been charged an arm and a leg by the aforementioned 'specialist' to sort out the non-functioning heater, she was not best impressed. It looked so neat I couldn't immediately see how it was supposed to be connected. Referring to the picture below, there was a metal pipe coming upwards from behind the engine (presumably the one marked as 1) with a curved hose that connected to what I now know is the heater return (marked as 2) so assume that a join has been put in the return hose. If there any chance someone with a diesel can get a photo of the heater pipe arrangement so I can be sure how it should be connected?

I strongly suspect that in addition to the above faults it will also need heater O rings as that is likely to be the only reason why it was disconnected in the first place. It's looking like I will be nipping over there for a couple of days in the next few weeks to get it all sorted and working as it should. The BeCM has already been to Marty to be reset (although it did seem to have a mind of it's own and thought it had a manual GEMS rather than an automatic diesel) but I suspect the vast majority of the problems were down to the door latch rather than anything more serious.

I suspect that only applies to fuel trims rather than the idle voltage from the TPS. Although mine rarely has more than a quarter tank of petrol in it, the values still alter and I know for definite that turning the ignition on with the TPS disconnected results in a high idle as I've done it.......

Reset the adaptive values.. If you happened to turn the ignition on to spin the engine over with it disconnected, it will have remembered the lower (i.e. zero) voltage as a closed throttle so it now thinks the throttle is part way open. From what I've found it seems that the signal from the TPS makes the idle air valve open to increase the revs on the transition from idle to open throttle rather than just relying on the airflow through the butterfly. As a temporary measure, you can enlarge the holes for the TPS mounting screws slightly and turn the TPS a smidgeon clockwise.

I can't offer much on the noise until we can hear it but I'm intrigued as to what would cause the radiator bung to shear off. I can't think of anything that normal running would do to cause that to happen unless it was already damaged and the extra pressure from it getting hot (for some other reason) caused it to start to leak.

Biggest problem with K Seal is that it clogs the bleed nipple from the top of the radiator so when coolant is lost and replaced with air, the air can't bleed out using the path that was put there for it.

Hopefully not too late for you (only got back from France at 1am this morning, 1326 miles in 4 days). It needs to line up and just slots in. If you've got a couple of very long M10 bolts you can put them in a couple of the mounting holes to line it up before slotting the splined shaft in. Transfer case uses the same ATF as the gearbox and the gearbox wants to be in Neutral. Good luck.

If you get really stuck Tony and fancy an evening out, I'll be in Calais on Monday evening. My ferry home isn't until 20.35 but I can get there earlier if needed (and the Nanocom is in the car).

Get the car as high as possible and have as many people as possible that can get under it. It's bloody heavy and I needed a trolley jack, a bottle jack, assorted bits of wood and two of us under there to get it back in. Second time I made up a bracket to fit to my trolley jack that bolted onto it and held it at the correct angle. If you've got a workshop with a transmission jack, you're starting from a much better place than I was.