Biggest problem with OE is that you need a press to fit them but you don't with poly bushes. If in a hurry to get it on the road, bung some poly on it for now. If they last, great, if they don't then do the job properly in the future. In saying that, the orange poly bushes on mine have been there for at least 50,000 miles (or 2 years), are still fine and the ride and handling is no worse than any of the others I've driven so some do work.

Should still be flexible then. With a bit of luck you should be able to use some RTV to stick it into place on the pan before offering it up to the box.

Mines got orange poly bushes on it and they are fine. Just follow the usual advice and avoid Britpart ones.

I wouldn't take anything from Ed China as a recommendation, he only needs a car to work for as long as it takes to find a punter to buy it.....

It may be permanently out of shape so will be a real bugger to get to reseat. Has it been changed recently or been like that for a while, that'll make a difference too. Dropping it off and putting it back with lots of RTV is probably your best hope if it insists on staying out of shape.

I don't think temperature makes too much difference in level, running through the gears certainly does though. On mine checking it before starting the engine, the level is about 4 inches above the full mark. I've also found that the difference between the bottom and top holes on the dipstick is under half a litre. Mine was on the minimum so I bunged a litre in and that took it way over the max. It was blowing the excess out of the breather (which finds it's way down the inner wheelarch liner until it drips off the nearside front mudflap) for weeks afterwards.

Sure it isn't an exhaust blow? That would vary with engine revs rather than road speed. Would also come and go as things expand and contract.

Summer camp is over 2 days, unless you've really gone to town as the father of the bride, a wedding is usually only 1........

I normally use brake cleaner spray for smaller bits or diesel for bigger bits. That and lighting bonfires is the only good use for diesel as far as I'm concerned.......

Stumble on changeover is going to be down to changeover overlap or changeover delay, depending on what it is called in your software. It sets the delay between turning gas on and petrol off so if too low it will have no fuel for a fraction or if too high, it'll be drowning in fuel for a fraction. Both will cause a stumble, but usually it is caused when set too low.

Christmas tree separator is in the tube at one end of the rocker cover where the oil breather tube connects. It's a plastic thing that looks like a Christmas tree and is there to slow down any oil vapour and allow it to turn back into oil.

Yes, but check every hole as, as I say, OB had just one hole that wasn't big enough.

Lambda sensors are 5-0V which means that 5V will be seen at lean and 0V at rich. So setting it wrong and it starts rich and just gets richer and richer. As for injector type, what have you actually got and what are your options in the software?

You can also go for NGK BCPR6ES which are the same as the BPR6ES but with the smaller hex so will fit all Thor engines. The only difference is that some, and it is only some, Thor heads have a smaller hole machined in them for the plugs so the standard sized plug socket won't fit in the hole. OB found he had just one hole that was smaller, Rutland Rover found all of his where smaller but many others have found that none are.

I pay £2 each for both BPR6ES and BCPR6ES from my local motor factors.

I suppose it depends on why they are there. If they are there to deal with thermal expansion then if they can't expand, something else is going to go (or they'll just crack again). But if that is the case, how did the cast iron manifolds fitted to the same engine in a Classic survive and not crack? Although the cast iron manifolds did have huge holes for the bolts that could, as long as it wasn't bolted up solid with firegum on the gaskets, would allow a bit of movement. If they are there to allow a bit of flex to allow for manufacturing tolerances, then as long as the are bolted up to a head when welded, they should be fine.

Not a bad idea as long as nobody starts deleting anything in the general sections as they should be in the classifieds like on the other forum. I'm sure Gordon can add another forum easily enough.

I know we shouldn't laugh, but I did, sorry. Seems odd that the belt went. I've known them to get thrown off if a pulley bearing goes but I've never known one break. Not even ones that are so perished the ribs are falling off......

Not quite the same as the Classic, I've tried to find a decent pic of one but can't. The P38 one isn't like that on the Classic where you have a huge plate on the back, they have a square section arm that comes out from under the bumper with a square plate on the end with two pairs of holes for the ball. While they may be more practical, they just don't look as tidy as the factory swan neck.

Probably a German spec thing then, TUV approval and all that although I would have expected the factory one to be TUV approved with the car by Land Rover. Most of the aftermarket ones you see over here are the Witter ones with the flat flange where the towball bolts to it. Uglier than the swan neck but they do allow the ball height to be altered or a NATO eye to be fitted instead of the ball if needed.

Morat wrote:

Sadly that sort of thing is frowned at on the canals...

Only frowned at? Not specifically banned? In that case it might be worth a try, although I suspect the locks might cause a problem to the skier.....

The one that hit it came off a lot worse though......

That's aftermarket not original. The factory towbar has a detachable swan neck but is held on by a hoofing great bolt and rests on another, similarly sized, bolt. Looks like this

I'd be very worried about using something like the one you've pictured to hang 3.5 tonnes on with it only being held in place by a bolt going through it. .

A 4.6 Thor uses the ZF 4HP24 gearbox while the 4.4 L322 uses the ZF 5HP24. I wonder how different the actual gearboxes are and if an L322 bellhousing would bolt up to a P38 gearbox? That would make it pretty simple if they did.