I'll have more of a play with it tomorrow and try various different combinations. I've got 3 different 4 digit numbers and two of those are allegedly the EKA (one in the service book and one written on the owners handbook) so with a bit of luck I'll be able to sort it with the Nano if it does all go tits up.

Mine cracked in exactly the same place.......

Any idea who did the original install? Usually the only time anyone says they don't like LPG is when the system doesn't work properly so they assume all LPG converted cars don't run right. I've had people comment about mine and ask how I put up with all the hassle and they don't believe me when I tell them it never gives any hassle, runs just as well, if not better, on gas than petrol and costs me less to run than a diesel. No brainer in my opinion and if it were my car I'd tell Guy Salmon where to stuff it (not that I'd be seen dead taking a car to a main dealers anyway).

I've emailed Marty to see if he is aware of this one and it may only apply to older cars, but I discovered something last night which I figured was worth adding to this thread. The BeCM in the Ascot says EKA disabled but I wasn't sure what effect this would have. The central locking currently doesn't work on the drivers door (so I've got to pull the latch and deal with that) but that means that I can lock it with the fob and the drivers door stays unlocked. Last night I'd locked it on the fob and then without thinking, opened the drivers door. The hazards started to flash showing that I'd triggered the alarm (sounder is unplugged) and my initial thought was, Oh sh*t, which one of the handwritten numbers on the paperwork is the EKA. Unlocked it with the fob and the hazards continued to flash. Put the key in the ignition, turned it on, dash said Alarm Triggered, RH Door, hazards stopped flashing but when I turned the key the engine started. No immobilisation, no press remote, no enter EKA, no nothing, it just worked and the engine started.

So, if EKA Disabled does remove the need for the EKA, it would seem to be the answer to an awful lot of grief suffered by numerous people.

Yes, saw that, it's free postage so cheaper and Furness have a good reputation but their's doesn't include the rubber mounts or bolts which I need.

Is this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-sunroof-motor-entstoert-/172734392420 all I need or is there anything else missing?

Seat bases can be swapped if you remove the actual cushion from the rest of the metalwork. I recently fitted a passenger side cushion to the drivers seat on my white one as the original was in a similar state. It means taking the seat out and stripping it down but simple enough to do, I even managed to find out why my heated seats weren't working while it was in bits and now they do.

They are so disgusting I'm tempted to use my mod status and delete the post.

But then I would have to change my name to RRToadhall.......

Seems the original part number was AMR3376, which then superseded to AMR6406 which was also superseded to AMR6477 so there were obviously a few improvements made to the design so you'd be better off going for the later number. There's one here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMR6477-FUSE-BOX-RELAY-FUSEBOX-RANGE-ROVER-P38-2-5-DIESEL-/162570054632 which is the correct one, comes with all the fuses and relays and free postage. From the look of the fuses (and the later part number) it looks like it was a replacement fitted not that long ago.

Got the rotary coupler half out and then decided to check RAVE. Found that the cables don't plug into it but are part of it. Checked continuity between the plug on the SRS cable under the dash and the connector for the airbag itself. All OK so reconnected with a squirt of contact cleaner in both plugs. Turned on the ignition and the dash said Airbag Fault, checked the fault with the Nano, cleared it, Airbag Fault on the dash disappeared and the SRS light went out. Success! The only thing on the MoT failure sheet that I haven't checked (because I'd forgotten about it) is the rusty ferrules on the brake hoses but I have a sneaking suspicion they will be as rusty as the ball joint boots are split.

Now I'm on to the more cosmetic side of things. So, the seat has definitely seen better days

I've sorted one or two minor things that were annoying me and then thought I would turn my attention to the sunroof. Along with the other error messages I was getting was one that every so often would pop up and tell me that the sunroof wasn't set. Poking the button did nothing so, having watched Marty do it on Smiler's car at Summer Camp, armed with my big screwdriver, I pulled out the interior light ready to start twiddling the manual adjuster. My theory was, judging by the mildew around it, that it hadn't been used for some time and the motor had just got stuck. First thing I noticed when I pulled the light out was a dangling socket so I figured it had been disconnected for some reason so had a look for something to plug it into. I think I have found the reason why the sunroof doesn't work......

The motor appears to have gone the same way as the viscous coupling and fan.

So it doesn't keep nagging me to set the sunroof I've gone into the BeCM settings and told it there isn't one, that should shut it up for the time being.

Edited to add that imgur does indeed work. Time to download all my pictures from Photobucket and close my account.

I've got a couple of domain names through easily but didn't go for their web hosting as I hadn't a need for it. I do have a couple of old computers and a broadband connection with a fixed IP address though so I'm sure it would be possible to host them myself if I can work out how to do it. Currently waiting for imgur to register me but it's taking a very long time. I suspect their servers are about to go into overload with all the new, ex-Photobucket, users registering.

I'd avoid one that doesn't quote a part number. That one is a completely unknown quantity when he says it's from an HSE 4.6 diesel.

Having spent some time out on it this evening, it gets better by the minute, seriously. It appears that the MoT place it was taken to could see a nice little earner. The one thing I wasn't looking forward to having to deal with was split boots on the bottom ball joints but having been under there, there is absolutely nothing wrong with them. In fact, it looks like the ball joints were replaced in the past so everything there is good too. Rutland Rover called round while I was out there to pick up a spare rear axle oil seal I had. While idly looking under the bonnet, I noticed an awful lot of slack on the tube to the washers. So much that when the bonnet was shut it was being trapped under the bonnet. Re-routed the pipe and the washers now work perfectly too. Just in the process of removing the rotary coupler to test it and if that sorts the SRS fault, then it's ready for an MoT.

Got pictures of the dodgy seat too, just got to find a decent alternative to Photobucket. Tried uploading to Google Drive but for some reason I can't link directly to them.

Mine had a crack too, can't remember exactly where but it's out in the garage so can have a look and see if it's the same place. I replaced it and found another advantage, a new one is more transparent so you can see how much coolant you have without taking the cap off and peering down the hole.

Later ones had the coil around the ignition switch so will turn off the alarm as soon as the key is inserted by telling the fob to transmit. No good if the receiver isn't working, the signal is being blocked by something stronger or the antenna has been disconnected so the fob is too far away for the signal to be received though. EKA is actually a good system as it does allow you to start the car even if the fob or receiver aren't working for whatever reason but it still means that if someone has a key blade that will fit the locks they still can't steal the car. If the BMW system relies on the ignition being switched on, and not on an induction coil to detect the key, then any old key that can be jiggled in the locks will allow it to be started.

Yes, if it will unlock all doors with the fob but only the drivers door with the key, the key switch in the drivers door latch is faulty. You are physically unlocking the door by turning the key but if the switch isn't making contact it won't tell the BeCM to trigger the central locking and unlock the others.

If you lock with the key you can unlock with either the key or the fob, if you lock with the fob then you must unlock with it too or the door will open but the car will remain immobilised.

Ouch, now that is steep and I thought that the way we are charged VAT on stuff from the US was taking the piss. We pay import duty at 10% of the purchase price (or at least the price that is shown on the bill of sale, wink, wink), shipping costs, insurance and then VAT on the total of these so we are paying VAT on the import duty, a tax on a tax. If the car originated in Europe it isn't considered as being imported, it is being repatriated so there's no import duty at all if over 30 years old and a nominal £50 if under that.

You could get round 6 by getting whoever ships it for you to fit a fuse in position 11 so the transfer case is in neutral and post the keys to you separately and allow the infamous P38 security to do the rest.

As long as you have somewhere to keep it, wouldn't it be worthwhile buying one here and shipping it over? We get charged around £900 for a car in a container from US to UK so I would have thought it would be much the same. Or would you have to pay some extortionate amount in import duty?

The shell was still sticky but as you are going to stick more material to it, it doesn't matter as long as all the bits of old foam are removed. Dina was doing that with a wire brush and it comes off easily enough. The sticky lumps of foam stuck to the soles of her shoes, which then picked up gravel so she could generate sparks when she walked.

I couldn't find any mention of an Ascot edition either. I was going to buy the P38 bible but Amazon want £60 for it! Paint is Altai Silver (code 567) but it has a blueish tinge to it and it looks more blue under a blue sky but much less so on a cloudy day. V5 says colour silver too.