Did they check the ABS light after driving it as it doesn't go out until you hit 5mph, has been known to fool the odd MoT tester who isn't aware of that. What warning light are they complaining about not illuminating? There should be a warning light for rear fogs but it's on the switch not the dash. As you say though, they could have been pressing the wrong button. Stick a bit of black tape over the one for the front fogs so they've only got one to choose from. The front passenger door on my SE (now wearing your old standard grille), locks on the central locking but doesn't unlock so you have to lift the button inside, maybe yours has the same fault and they locked it between you dropping it off and them doing the test? So all you are really left with is a brake pipe (probably best to do the advisory one too), a bulb and a tweak of the headlight aim.

That would suggest you have a higher resistance thermistor than you should but from your checks with the old one, the ECM sensor is the higher of the two so that would discount the possibility that the internal wiring is reversed.

Eh? they don't make sense. Surely the manifold temperature should be higher than the expansion tank temperature? Can you check the temp at the top hose outlet? That would be the most accurate I would have thought. Temperature reported by Nano seems very high though. The gauge is very heavily buffered and hardly moves at all between 85 and 105 degrees. Not ideal as when it starts to noticeably climb you are almost into an overheat.

I doubt they'd fit as Mr Land Rover seems to have put a load of other junk under the front seats. Seems to be an awful lot of big alloy boxes with lots of wires going to them...... That's why I'm looking at something that will fit in the space they used for the factory sub but much slimmer so I can still keep my toolbox in that corner and be able to open it.

Have you tried measuring the resistance of both? For any given temperature they will both give the same reading if they are the same value. Have you tried the old one you took out, or at least measured it's resistances? Working on the theory that the gauge one feeds the BeCM it is unlikely the signal it expects to see would be different between a GEMS and Thor engine even though GEMS uses two separate ones as you know but I can only find specs for the one feeding the ECM not the one feeding the gauge. What actual temperatures are you getting?

A pair of JBL Stage 600C speakers arrived and were fitted today and I can confirm they are worlds apart from the originals. Fitting was fairly straightforward, the old ones are held into the plastic mounts with bent tabs and I drilled the mounts to use the supplied self tappers to fit the new ones. I tried the JBL tweeters that came in the box and, they didn't sound any different to the originals so I didn't use them although once out of heir plastic housings could have been fitted if I'd wanted to. Bass response is a definite improvement, I can use bass boost on the DSP settings in the head unit and it actually does something which it didn't before. They sound pretty damn good to me although I think I still need a sub.....

Just got off the phone to him and he admitted he'd finally got around to signing up. We aren't sure if it's a Tornado cam or chip but I have to admit, it's bloody quick. The stupidly expensive Prins LPG system doesn't run out of puff even at 5,500 rpm either. One interesting thing is the coils have been moved to a bracket at the front of the plenum (1998 so GEMS motor) where they sit neatly between the alternator and AC compressor. It's suddenly developed an SRS fault which Nano reports as internal module fault so we're going to try swapping the ECU with the one in my SE one day next week. We also suspect the keyfob receiver has been disconnected but we'll have a crack at that at the same time. He's in South Beds so not on my doorstep but not too far away.

I couldn't TIG weld to save my life. bpsm put a link to a picture rather than embed it into his post so I tried a post with the the link in the insert picture box. Posted but it came up with no picture but the 'insert image here' message, so I deleted my post and the 500 error popped up. Maybe I tried to delete it before it had fully saved it or something like that. You can still see the original message if you got to the Portal tab.

If it's come adrift at the top, it might find it's way in from there. With the side off the centre console you can see them where they fit to the bottom of the heater box.

Shame but never mind, maybe someone else has some contacts. My first wife worked for EMAP, the publishing house, and I used to have loads of contacts on numerous magazines but not these days. The P38 does very much seem to be ignored. I ordered a couple of parts for my car and a copy of a Land Rover magazine was in the parcel that arrived. I had a read through it and other than a buyers guide for the diesel L322 (which didn't mention the self destructing GM gearbox) there was no mention of Range Rovers at all.

Shouldn't think so although it might fill your car up with very dirty, smelly, water and dead leaves. Giving them a squeeze from underneath will usually result in a shirt sleeve full of dirty water. They are a conical shaped bit of rubber with a slit in the end so water can get out but not in. Dirt will clog them so they can't get the water out fast enough. When mine clogged up the water was running out of the side of the transmission tunnel cover and forming a puddle on the passenger side rubber overmat.

Martyuk wrote:

I wonder if any of the Land Rover magazines would be interested in a bunch of people keeping P38's on the road and giving them some love, rather than pulling them apart because they can't be bothered to fix anything...

That's not a bad idea. They get the odd mention in the Land Rover mags but most owners of inferior LR models tend to think of them as the unreliable, best forgotten, model. A bit of positive publicity could be good for explaining to people that there is nothing to be frightened of and they aren't complex, just a little different. Smiler, you're in the trade, how about using some of your contacts?

My pillar trims were pretty horrible too, dirty and with chunks of the furry coating missing. That stuff comes off fairly easily with a plastic scraper and the remains can be cleaned off with meths, white spirit or thinners. That leaves a smooth, beige plastic which initially I didn't like as, being shiny, I got reflections of other cars headlights off it. I must have got used to it though as I don't notice it now. The problem with using the headlining material on the pillar trims is that it is foam backed so while it would be OK on the A and D post trims, would be very difficult to get a clean edge on the B and C trims where there is the cutout for the sliding seat belt mount. You could make it look neater by wrapping it round to the inside but I suspect it would then jam up the sliding part. What is needed is either a matching material without the foam backing or some means of re-applying a furry coating much like the original.

I had a look for alternative hotels but not knowing the area makes it difficult, the Alex was OK but as Morat says, the beer is crap and it's a bit conference centre-ish. Premier Inns are usually pretty good (so Lenny Henry keeps telling us), so that would seem to be a viable option.

If a couple of people can strip headlining shells out and clean them off (removing the old cloth is easy, it damn near falls off), Dina and me can glue the new material on. We did mine with just the two of us but 3 people is the ideal number so another body to help with holding the material away from the shell. Once the material is on then either another couple of people can refit or the removal crew can take on that role.

Is this an invitation to take your car to bits? Diffs and autobox (and transfer case) are simple enough, take drain plug out, allow oil to go all over the floor, put drain plug back, refill. On yours with no dipstick, filling the autobox isn't as straightforward as the earlier ones.

I think I'm going to be tied up all the time sticking new headlining material to the shells but I'm sure someone will be able to show you.

Water in the ducting hasn't come from the AC, that's definitely left over from what got in through the pollen filter housing. If the weather stays like it has been today, leave the car parked in the sun so it's at cooking temperature inside then run the engine for 10 minutes. If the AC drains are clear, you'll find a big puddle underneath the centre of the car. I parked mine for a couple of minutes this afternoon and came back to it to see a stream running out from underneath and that was with the engine off.

I'll second the stick it in the top hose method too, at least then you will be taking a reading from the actual coolant temperature. If you are going for silicon coolant hoses then you must have pretty looking anodised bits too, it's just not done to have silicon hoses without.

Your network cabinet reminds me of when I had a car that needed some serious welding doing to the underside and required large sheets of steel. I used an ex-Civil Service issue filing cabinet......

I meant not using the JBL ones that come in the kit and just keeping the original ones. From the spec the JBL ones look to be a larger diameter so I'm not sure if they will fit inside the housings. It might just be the plastic surrounds though so I could cut them off and they might fit. I suspect the JBL's will sound better though but I'll try hanging them in temproarily first before getting involved in serious butchery and glue.

Yes but why? As I've got separate mid range and tweeters, it's only the woofers that I really need (or ones that produce a bit more bass than the ones that are in there). Too late now, the JBL's are on order and will be here by Wednesday.....

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

dsp sounds good in mine in my opinion. sub on 4, bass on 6, and treble on 3.

I used to have the sub on 7 but then the Mrs put radio 1 on once. I couldn't be doing with it.

I tried a bit of Alterbridge (Blackbird) but even with the sub on 8 it hadn't got the grunt, or the top end for that matter, that I get on my home system (NAD amp and CD deck, Dual (better known for turntables) speakers) with all tone controls flat and sounded not much better than my existing standard speakers. When you do the sort of mileages I do, often at night on my own, a bit of decent quality makes all the difference, especially when you know how good a system can sound.