Not sure why the feature is there but it is unlikely to flatten the battery overnight by waking up for 2 minutes every 6 hours. It does give you early warning of a leak although I suspect that isn't why it's there. Mark's main problem seems to be that he's got relays 18 and 19 permanently energised, even with the ignition off, and that isn't good. That is almost certainly why the battery is going flat, one of them powers the engine ECU. That's why I suspect the fusebox has been changed for the wrong one. It's a '96 car so the fusebox was originally an AMR3375 which was superseded by the AMR6405 which is presumably an updated version that would be more reliable than the original. £105 from Island 4x4, so not the end of the world.

I recently reinstated the air suspension on a car a mate bought which had also had 4 Schrader valves fitted under the bonnet to allow each corner to be inflated individually. He found that without the automatic lowering at speed, it felt decidedly unstable at anything over 60 mph. He got an O ring kit for the valve block and a rebuild kit for the compressor, did those then I fitted them and checked it over. There was a couple of leaks where the air lines had been mucked about with when the valves were fitted but some decent quality joiners and a couple of feet of air line and it now works perfectly. Total cost for the lot? About £60.

I know all about the EU bureaucracy, a mate lives just outside Nice in France and that is just as bad. He lives 2,000 feet up the side of a mountain and needed something that could do it in all weathers. I found a 2.8 litre Nissan Patrol on LPG over here and bought that on his behalf. He had to insure it as a Nissan 280Z as the petrol Patrol had never been imported into France and the 280Z was the only car using that engine officially imported. As for the LPG, he'd got no chance. He would have had to have the system ripped out and a system approved by the French authorities installed instead. Even then, he'd still have had to insure it as a 280Z though. It came back here and was sold on. As for boats, nothing over 9.9 hp without a licence (sans permis), fortunately, I've got an ICC for inland and offshore for powered craft up to 24m so can legally use his boat or hire one but nobody else can.

It needs a bit of varied driving, slow speed, acceleration, deceleration, high speed, etc. You'll know when it's right when it will idle when you first start it and drive as it used to do.

Reset ECU sets everything to factory defaults, all the configuration settings and the fuel map. So if you did hit the reset button, you've royally screwed everything and it will need setting up from scratch BUT NOT UNTIL YOU HAVE RUN ON PETROL ONLY TO LET IT ADAPT. The fact it won't idle on petrol when you first start it shows you have screwed the petrol adaptations as well.

Run solely on petrol, change the leads when they arrive and let it sort itself out on petrol and only then start playing with gas again.

Hi Mark, glad you found your way here. Something is odd here and as I mentioned on the other forum (no, lads, not that other forum, but another one), hot fuse box and relays being held in when they shouldn't could suggest someone has replaced the fuse box with the wrong one. Fuseboxes, particularly the early ones, did have a habit of burning out. They can be rebuilt is you are handy with a soldering iron (see http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/electrical/fusebox.html) but if you've got the wrong one all bets are off.

The voltage drop between battery and alternator suggest that there's a dodgy connection. Maybe where the two cables are joined at the starter or just corrosion inside the terminals. Do they look good or are they a bit on the green side?

Change the pressure back to 1.1 and one lambda and it will be back to how it was once it's re-calibrated the petrol system. By changing things in software but not making the same changes in the hardware, it's got itself a little confused.

If it's the speaker itself that is dead, bung a pair of JBL Stage 600 speakers in the front doors instead. I've recently put a pair in mine to replace the 19 year old rattly things that were in there and they make a noticeable diffrence to the sound quality. I got the 600C models which have now been replaced by the 600CE but you might find someone with the C's still.

It won't have altered the fuel mapping but it will now be correcting for something that didn't need correcting. If the map was calibrated with the 1.1 bar and 1 lambda set, then it will be correct for those settings. Changing the settings back won't sort the problem immediately, it'll still need to be driven to allow it to re-adjust back to how it was.

That's why RAVE says that calibration must be carried out with Testbook. Presumably Testbook comes with a calibrated tape measure........

By changing things you've upset the calibration. Now when running on LPG the mixture is out so, as it slaves off the petrol system, the petrol system is adapting to get the mixture correct when on gas. Then when you go to run on petrol, the mixture is wrong and it has to adapt again to get it right. Think of it this way. Lets say that for a given revs and load the petrol injectors need to be open for 7mS and at the same revs and load the LPG injectors need to be open for 10mS. The LPG controller takes the pulses intended for the petrol injectors, adds 3mS and uses those pulses to fire the LPG injectors. If the LPG calibration is out and it's only adding 1mS, the petrol ECU sees a lean mixture so adjusts the petrol pulse length to 9mS. All is then fine on LPG but when you go back to petrol, it's too rich as the pulse length has increased so it has to be run on petrol for a while to adapt down to 7mS again. That's why I said don't change anything, it was running fine on both fuels so it was pretty much correct and now it isn't.

and as your car now belongs to one of my neighbours, it'll still get plugged in round here if anything starts playing up. We're doing quite well in this village for P38's. Obviously there's my 3 (and a Disco outside at the moment too), your old one about 100 yards away, an HSE just around the corner and further into the village a guy with a DSE. That's 6 all living within half a mile of each other.

no10chris wrote:

and at least it's a full fat rangie

Nah, it's only a Disco in drag......

When he came round to mine in it I think it was the first one I'd ever seen that wasn't black.

Blimey Morat, you're beginning to sound like you know what you are talking about. Or is it that you are a theoretical man, you know how it should be done, just aren't able to do it (bit like the rest of us when it comes to snooker, you know how to make the amazing shot but can never actually demonstrate it in practice)?

super4 wrote:

Hi Gilbert, sods law said that my particular year of both P38 (1998) and Classic (1990) did not have the hole - missed out by a year - must have been on a tea break - would you believe it ?

The P38 never got the hole but the Classic did, although it sounds like not until '91

Just found that it costs more to deliver Ignition leads to Spain than they cost - anyone coming out ?

There's a company based in Germany that my mate in France gets bits from. Decent prices and ship anywhere in Europe. Only problem is, I can't remember what they are called......

super4 wrote:

One job I have been putting off is to cut a hole in the floor of the Classic to replace the petrol pump - have no pit here on the track and don't see any easy way of dropping the tank out.

You shouldn't need to, every Classic I've worked on already had the hole there. Dropping the tank isn't difficult, even with no pit. I did it a few weeks ago on a car sitting on the floor although there was two of us doing it. Most difficult part was getting the filler hose to come off having been stuck to the tank inlet nozzle for the best part of 24 years.

The switch is on the brake pedal, or at least it should be, and is just a valve to dump the vacuum when you touch the brakes. That hose should go to a Tee piece with the two other sides of the Tee going to the actuator and the vacuum pump that lives underneath it. Vacuum pump produces vacuum which is used to pull against a diaphragm inside the actuator that pulls on the cable to the throttle linkage. When you touch the brakes, the valve opens, the vacuum is dumped and the actuator releases. There's another dump valve at the pump to release the vacuum if you turn off cruise from the steering wheel switch.

Yes, I've used mine on both Thors and diesels as well as the GEMS. BECM, HEVAC, EAS, SRS, Autobox and ABS all still work fine, it's only the engine functions that don't. In fact, when you tell it what car it's plugged into, the available options change to the ones that are only fitted to that model so tell it it's pluged into a GEMS and it gives an option for the early type SRS modules, tell it's plugged into a Thor and only the later SRS modules show up.

Morat wrote:

but but... why not use manifold vacuum? It's free!

Because when the pipes perish and start to leak, it's going to make the car run rough. I suppose the other thing is that manifold vacuum may be free but it isn't constant. Going up hill you'll have virtually none which would make the cruise control stop when you need it most. It would be like the old days of vacuum operated windscreen wipers. Great on the overrun but the wipers would stop when going uphill in the pouring rain.......

The free version of EASUnlock (which I think is now at V2) works well and, like Marty, I prefer it to the Nano Evo for EAS but that might be because I was using it long before I got the Nano. But that is all it will do. The latest, paid for, version is cheaper than everything else and claims to do everything but I noticed that although it has a tab for HEVAC, there was no mention of HEVAC in the details. I emailed Storey Wilson (the guy that makes it) and asked about the HEVAC and he said that it was a work in progress that would be added once he'd figured out how to make it work. From comments on the other site it seems that once he's got something working after a fashion he gets bored with it so it may never happen.

I've heard of a number of people with similar experience to Marty with the Lynx. It's made by Britpart, enough said......

No experience of the Hawkeye or Faultmate but I think at least one of them is VIN locked. Fine unless you buy another car or want to plug it into someone else's.

So for me, the Nanocom Evolution was a no brainer. I've got the licence for GEMS but it will still connect to a diesel or a Thor and do everything except the engine (which you can do with a generic scanner anyway). For around 50 quid you can buy the licence for the other versions if you need. So if you change from a GEMS to a Thor (or vice versa) all you need do is buy the extra licence. It may not be cheap, but worth every penny.

Or take a run over to Morat's and take him up on his offer of plugging his Nano into your car.

Lpgc wrote:

I have seen some 175's in incorrect branded cases though, e.g. had to connect to a Millenium using Leonado software lol..

The one on my white car says it's a Bigas Pegaso but the Bigas software won't connect whereas AEB Leonardo software will. The one in my latest acquisition says it's an OMVL Millennium and surprisingly, the only software that will connect is the Millennium version. But as the circuit board only slots into the plastic case, there's no way of knowing if the board is in the original box.