John Craddock lists the bulbholder and is the only supplier that doesn't say it is out of stock or obsolete. Maybe he's got a stash of them?
It used to be that the maximum wattage allowed was a total of 110W on dipped beam (which is why a standard bulb is 55W) but no limit on main beam so 100/55W bulbs are perfectly legal. I ran them for a while on one of my cars but found that when going from main to dipped, the difference meant that you may as well switch the lights off. The standard P38 lights are great on main beam as there's the extra bulbs in there but dip is where they could do with a bit more output.
For the IVA test (Individual Vehicle Approval, what has replaced the old SVA and is needed for kit cars and imports), there is no mention of wattage or output other than "Where vehicles are fitted with Gas Discharge or LED Headlamps there is no requirement for headlamp cleaning if the light output is below 2000 Lumens (evidence must be provided)". I did notice recently that my MoT testers beam checking machine has a light meter marked with the light output expected from 'Tungsten', 'Halogen' and 'Other' headlights although there's nothing in the testers manual to say a fail is if there is not enough or too much light other than:
An obligatory headlamp:
a. inoperative, excessively damaged or
deteriorated or has a product on the lens or
light source so that the light output is well
below that required to illuminate the road
ahead. (Reason for Rejection 1.7.5a)
So it seems that we are all legal no matter what bulbs we have fitted.......
Beat you to it......
and I suspect Simon has even more. There used to be a DVD being sold on eBay that was a collection of just about every bit of LPG software (mostly freeware but some not) out there. This is an image of that DVD. Most folders contain more than one version so there's earlier and later versions in case an older system won't talk to newer software. In the case of Zavoli, I've got versions 3 (3.0.1), 4 (4.6.3 and 4.7.6) and 6 (6.0.300 and 6.0.308) but no version 5. If 5 is the correct one for the B suffix hardware, I would have expected anything earlier to have worked.
No Simon, Tony is referring to his system from Vogels (http://www.vogelsautogas.nl/page.html) in Holland. As they are the Dutch importer for OMVL and use a lot of AEB bits, it's very likely they use yet another re-badged AEB controller.
While you are playing with it, how about setting the clock? It still thinks we are on BST so you sent the last post in 56 minutes time.....
Orangebean wrote:
I didn't remove any plugs from the LPG ECU at all. The other ends- that go into the Matrix units, stayed on their own side of the respective heads , so I don't think I could have Simon.
Simon is referring to the cables that go to the petrol ECU not the LPG injectors. You've got two looms, one per bank, and one has the pickup for the ignition switched supply, the other doesn't. So you'll have one loom with 8 wires, two per injector cut feed, and one with 9 wires, the injector cuts plus the supply from the common ignition switched supply to the petrol injectors. If you've swapped the plugs over, the ignition switched supply won't be going anywhere.
Having just gone through about 100 different pdf files, I can't find it. However, if you use the installation diagrams, that shows what colour wires go where so by taking the back off the plugs, you'll be able to see which wires are connected to which pins.
If the standard of questions asked by some on the other site is anything to go by, asking them how many wheels it has would be too difficult for some......
That's right. There's the permanent live that should come directly from the battery (via a fuse obviously) while the ignition switched supply is on a red/white wire that connects to the common positive supply to the petrol injectors.
I changed my condenser with the bumper in place, a bit fiddly but it can be done. The same goes for the condenser fans. Maybe I've just got small hands......
Ignition switched. Somewhere, I've got a diagram that shows the pinouts for the AEB ECU so you can check that you have the correct voltages in the correct places. Can I find it? It's in the same place as your non-return valves......
Simon may have it though and I'm sure he'll be along soon.
Yes, negative meter probe to ground and check the others with the positive probe.
If you are sure there is 12V arriving at the ECU, the next place to look would be at the switch. There should be 4 wires, a 12V, a ground and two data lines which will probably show as 5V with a normal meter.
I bet they will..... I caught the corner of my front bumper on a trailer and cracked it so decided to take it off to repair it. You know that feeling when you are putting lots of grunt onto a bolt and you just know it is twisting rather than coming undone? That's how it felt so I figure that if I ever really have to take it off, it will have to be done with the big yellow spanner at a time when I've got a replacement ready to go on in it's place. Ended up repairing the crack in situ, not perfect but a blind man would be pleased to see it.
Dremel, pah! I use one of these on anything that doesn't want to come off.
My daughter gets extremely worried when I reach for the 'big yellow spanner' when working on her car.......
Araldite is a brand, common in the UK but obviously not in Holland. It's a two part epoxy resin, resin and hardener come in two tubes, mix an equal amount of each together and it sticks most things. It's also useful for building up missing bits if something has broken off.
Oooh, that's pretty......
My SE has the heat shields held on just at the two centre mounts, none of the fiddly little ones. The shields had obviously rotted at some point in the past and someone has screwed M8 studding into the tapped holes in the manifold with a nut to lock them in place. There's then a nut screwed onto that, a big washer, the heatshield, another washer and a nut to hold it in place. That way if it rattles against the manifold, the shield can be moved out a bit so it doesn't touch on anything. Also makes it dead easy to removed.
Valves? Plural? Where's the other one then? I replaced the one that lurks under the shelf support and the rear washer worked for a day then stopped again, I assumed that bits of the innards of the old one had clogged the nozzle. Now I'm told there's another one hiding somewhere......
I ran mine with no heat shield at all on the drivers side for about 2 years (that's about 50,000 miles for me) and nothing seemed to suffer.
If you've got thick W rate oil in there, it's normal in cold weather. The two numbers on an oil show the viscosity at low and high temperatures, so a 10W-40 will have the same viscosity as a 10 grade oil when cold and a 40 grade oil when hot. So if you are running 20W-50, it's too thick when cold so takes the first couple of seconds to get up to the tappets and gives you the tapping noise.