I suppose it's a bit like having a bad day at work, you go to the pub.
Only in this case, it's like going to the pub because you've been sacked at work.......
Considering you own the ONLY Linley in the US and an immaculate H&H, you are the sort of person that any RR forum would really want as a member. The work that you did on the restoration is superb and you are an asset to any site. But, you are a threat to the little club of experts who know everything. I got the feeling I pissed RRTH off more by correcting the crap that he posted than by using the odd word he didn't like.
Unbelievable. I got my lifetime ban for sending spam messages (inviting people to this forum) on a daily basis when I'd only sent one invite in 6 weeks (my story is here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/189-looks-like-rrtoadhall-doesn-t-like-competition). OK, so I'd had a couple of 1 week bans for profanity (as had Gordon), or at least making comments that were too subtle for the redneck American sense of Humour (or lack of). You are most welcome here and at this rate, the more people he bans the better. I registered another username on there so I can see what is going on and to avoid the adverts, posted once, which appeared after the required wait for the post to be approved, only to be removed a couple of hours later. I haven't seen you post anything even remotely objectionable so what was it that he didn't like? All we need do now is get Johnno42 over here, he's an Aussie who had a Classic and really knows his stuff but has just bought a P38 and is a bit out of his depth at the moment.
RRTH is a total arse (something you can say on here without fear of consequences).
Cats wouldn't have any effect as the lambda sensors are checking before the cats. Only US spec cars have post cat sensors to check that they are working. You can't simply swap an engine ECU as it is keyed to the BeCM, you will need at least a Nanocom to sync the two (I think but can't swear that a nano can do it even). Coil packs fire pairs of cylinders, one on each bank so if you had a coil pack going down, it would effect a cylinder on each bank. Looks like that just leaves the HT leads then.
It's blown over here now and completely still outside but it was pretty interesting earlier today. Had to go down to London and on the way back found two lorries having a quiet sleep on their side in the fast lane of the M11.
The only signs at home was that the cover had blown off my motorbike and was at the bottom of the garden but one of the guys at work was driving along and had a steel garage fly over his van!
Probably a bit late now but the hose from the reducer to the injectors, so including the filter, will have LPG vapour at around 1.5 bar absolute (so only around 7psi higher than atmospheric). As Tony says, a quick hiss as you release the pipe and that's it.
Have you got the storm in Holland too Tony?
A filter is a filter, part number doesn't matter. Pull a pipe off and see what size the end is. I get my stuff from here http://tinleytech.co.uk/product-category/lpg-parts/filtershut-off/lpg-vapour-filter/?widget_search=yes and their next day delivery is just that if you are cutting it fine on time.
Just seen your reply regarding Scotty on the other site. A perfect example of how to say something without actually saying it.
You have been busy, no Check Engine light and now the EAS is working as it should. Now get out there and drive it........
Adaptive values should be reset so it can start learning from scratch rather than having to correct from incorrect (if you follow what I mean) but as long as it will run, it'll soon adjust itself anyway.
If the reducer is freezing, that's your problem. Does the heater blow hot air?
Have a look at the last post in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/203?page=3. Is it possible you've done something similar? Don't forget that Ray is in Canada so has a US spec car where the Check Engine light comes on at the slightest hint of a problem where ours ignore most problems so you won't get it on yours.
But there's the rub, a few quid more. In fact, when you look at the quantity needed per vehicle and the number of vehicles being built, it probably only comes to pennies but every penny makes a difference. It's much the same with the grade of steel used for valves and valve seats. Many cars, like ours for instance, can run on LPG with no need for a valve seat lubricant because the steel used is hard enough but others can't. Harder steel costs more so that adds to the overall cost of the vehicle so some manufacturers use a grade of steel that is just hard enough to last for their projected lifetime when run on unleaded fuel with it's added lubricant, remove that lubricant and the valve seats wear away at an alarming rate.
Martyuk wrote:
and whack an audience heater core in...
Predictive text strikes again..... Or, rather than spend a fortune on 22mm hose, why not buy a replacement genuine hose that flares out to 22mm at the end and chop off the end 4 inches?
Leak in the exhaust manifold you'd hear and it didn't sound like it had one on the video. You can at least check you've got ignition switched 12V arriving at the sensor connector.
Plonker..... However, what are the other two holes in the underside of the plenum? One near the top in the pic that appears to be countersunk and one next to the throttle cable plate. I'm fairly sure mine doesn't have them.
Even if you'd had it fitted, it's unlikely the installer would have told you how he'd done it. A photo of the heater hoses were they go to the reducer would help.
Only you know how to get the air out as only you know how it is plumbed. Start the engine and let it run, feel the hose to the heater and also the hose to the reducer, they should be at the same temperature. Run the car on gas until it changes from gas to petrol, as soon as it does, open the bonnet and see what temperature the reducer is at then. If it's cold, then you've got air in it. You'll need to slacken the highest hose and bleed the air out.
Check the electrical connections to the solenoids, there will be one on the tank and another by the reducer. Make sure they are tight, not rusted and there aren't any cracks in the insulation. It's not uncommon for the insulation to crack and allow moisture in which will corrode the cable.
If you've swapped the sensors over and the problem stays with bank B then you've got a problem on bank B or in the wiring to the lambda sensor. If you can power it and it doesn't get hot, then that suggests wiring. Might be worth taking the other one out and seeing if that gets hot? I only say that as the heater circuit is provided with ignition switched volts on one side but the other side is grounded via the ECU so maybe it doesn't ground it until the engine is running. You could certainly try plugging the hole in the manifold with a spare lambda sensor and seeing how it runs like that and if the lambda sensor does actually get hot.
That was me persuading another LPG powered P38 away from the dark side. It will changeover to gas when the reducer reaches a temperature that has been preset in the BRC software, it MAY switch back to petrol if the temperature drops below that preset level (some systems do, others don't). If you've got an airlock or poor coolant flow through the reducer, then it will heat up initially and switch to gas. As you drive the liquid Propane will cool things down as it vaporises but normally the coolant will provide enough latent heat that it doesn't matter. If the coolant flow is low due to a restriction or an air lock, then the vaporisation will cool the reducer down too much so it switches back to petrol. Run for another 10 minutes and the reducer heats up again so it goes back to LPG. If you've had an overheating problem so have lost coolant, particularly if the reducer is plumbed in parallel with the heater matrix and mounted fairly high in the engine bay, then it could be full of air.
The other possibility is that one of the solenoids drops out, gas pressure drops and the system switches back to petrol as it thinks you've run out of gas. It might be that you have a poor connection on the feed to a solenoid which heats up with current flow. As it heats up the resistance rises and the solenoid drops out, as the connection cools down, it will pull in again.