0.7mm equates to 27 thou which is slightly wider that the standard 25 thou that plugs always used to come gapped at, 0.9mm is 35 thou which is about standard for a modern car with electronic ignition. I've never gapped mine down but may try it next time (if I remember) and see if there's any noticeable difference.

Neither have I. There are a number of different LPG specific plugs out there, the Brisk silver ones that seem to cause more misfires than Champions on most cars that people have tried them in and the special NGK ones. Personally I don't think it worth trying anything other than standard and I know that Vauxhall/Opel engines which were available on LPG as standard will only run on the original plugs.

Having seen the spec for the NGK ones, they are Iridium tipped but don't seem any different to the normal Iridium plugs other than being marked as for LPG and costing a lot more. The GEMS standard plug is the BRP6ES which last around 10,000 miles and I get them for £2 each, the Iridium BPR6EiX which lasts around 40,000 miles at £6 each and the LPG2 at £14 each which I doubt will last longer than the standard Iridium. Although in the long run the Iridium works out slightly cheaper, I use the standard ones and change the plugs every time I change the oil and filter.

Only if they are worn out and need changing. Stick with the recommended NGK plugs and change every 10-12,000 miles. If you want to swap to the Iridium equivalent, they will last longer (about 40,000 miles) but cost more than 4x the price so you aren't really saving anything.

At 51.9p per litre, which is what I'm currently paying, it does magically reduce fuel costs but won't make a jot of difference to a worn engine. Oil stays much cleaner but still needs to be changed, just because it's clean doesn't mean it's still lubricating as it should. I suspect you are right though. If an engine has been rebuilt and not really run much, then you don't know if it is running properly until you've done a few miles. Does it feel down on power because it's still tight or because the timing/mixture or whatever isn't right? As a modern system slaves off the petrol system, that does need to be right for LPG to be right too.

Misfires and backfires would normally point towards plug leads swapped so plugs aren't firing when they should and are when they shouldn't. Or an iffy signal from the crank position sensor.......

It looks like the AWR1012 was fitted to the early models and then that part became no longer available and they fitted AWR5051 instead. In addition, AWR5051 became the part number for a replacement for the earlier ones. The difference could be a slight design change or even that it comes from a different manufacturer (as car manufacturers don't make cars, they assemble the bits made by lots of other manufacturers) but as the part numbers supersede from one to the other, they can be swapped.

Where part numbers are different from one year to another but not shown as superseded, that means they aren't interchangeable.

The part number you have been supplied with (AWR1012) was superseded by AWR5051 so it is an early one that has been refurbished. Obviously there must be a difference for it to get a different part number, probably only minor, but if one supersedes the other they will be interchangeable.

gordonjcp wrote:

Can confirm, having set fire to the coolant in my Citroën CX during a "spirited blast" down the A90.

Now that's what you call an overheat!

As far as I know and can find from RAVE and Ashcrofts website, the gearboxes are identical. I had a feeling the torque converter was different but can't find anything that confirms it one way or another.

The car looks very tidy (except for those wheels......), a shame it's got a diesel engine in it.

Upside down? What sort have you got? One of these by any chance? http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/valtek-type-97emer-vapour-filter-complete/ As it's in the vapour line I can't see the orientation making any difference.
My SE has one and I had intended replacing it with something like this, http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/lpg-vapour-filter-f-779-c-12mm/ as it's smaller and can be fitted anywhere.

Finally got it sorted. Vancer contacted me and kindly offered a AMR2672 which is the US version of the PRC7618. Looks and works the same, the only difference is it doesn't have RDS but does have a weather band button for getting weather reports from the NOAA weather reporting service. However, the cost of shipping it from the States was going to make it ridiculously expensive and as it was an untested one that he had bought from a breaker it didn't seem worth it. The only ones we could find for sale here were listed as spares or repair but it seemed worth a punt in the hope one could be repaired. In the end, my mate contacted the seller to ask about one and was offered a guaranteed, fully working, recently refurbished by Clarion, unit. Not cheap (£150) but it will plug in and work so it is on it's way to me now and I'll be taking it down with me on Friday. As all the plugs are there, I can probably bung it in the hole in the dash on the way back from the airport and have it working by the time we've got to his house.

George's join date made me realise that we've been going for over a year now. A forum started because both Gordon and myself got ourselves banned from Rangerovers.net for using the phrase that is the tagline to this site (which, for those that aren't aware, dates back to when the Defender came out on coil springs after years of leaf springs on the series Landys) and incurring the wrath of RRToadhall. I suppose it all started with a pubcrawl around Glasgow a couple of years ago with Gordon as the host (and navigator) and then further, alcohol fuelled discussions and it was started as a bit of a joke because the domain name was available and it seemed like a fun idea.

But what have we achieved in that first year? Well, we're up to a respectable number of members and still growing (although we could do with kidnapping a few more of the UK based ones from over there), a group of us spent a weekend in a barn in the middle of nowhere somewhere in Wiltshire pulling assorted P38s to bits (when not testing Morat's skills with a barbecue and drinking more beer) and, best of all, we can take the piss out of RRToadhall and his cronies without fear of getting banned for it. I've never had a high opinion of 'dodgy septics' as a mate of mine calls them (think cockney rhyming slang) and some of the posts makes me realise that in the main it's all true (there are the odd exceptions I will happily admit). When you see people posting on a forum asking how to change a battery or how to clean a bulbholder, it does make you wonder though.

Yes, but it will take far longer than you ever thought it would (a bit like the delivery really, it's been downhill from there when you think about it.....).

From the information I managed to glean when I got my lifetime ban (for sending 'daily' spam advertising this forum when I'd actually only sent two invites in 6 weeks) it seems that PMs are scanned automatically for urls rather than someone reading them. Send a PM with a link in it and that flags up apparently. I registered another username using minimal personal details and a different email address and posted in a thread. That post appeared, after a couple of hours delay while it was checked as all newly registered users posts are, and then disappeared a few hours later. Anything I've posted since has never appeared but I can, and have, sent PMs.

It used to be Dexron 2 that was recommended but then Dexron 3 came out and replaced it. I suspect you'd have a hard time trying to find any Dex 2 these days.

I thought that but the dash would display Transfer Neutral if there was a fuse in position 11. Viscous coupling failure wouldn't cause loss of drive as like Dave says, they fail seized. If the flex plate had shattered I would have expected there to be a noise from it, but it's something that is easy to check by looking at it.

There's a challenge for you then Nick......

dhallworth wrote:

I'm popping across on the ferry from Gourock to Dunoon tomorrow

That'll be one of Ferryman's old boats then. A couple of his former commands have ended up with Western Ferries on that route.

That's probably the difference. The version I have, which is the one that people are trying to run, is version 2.0.3.24 dated September 2006. Obviously too old to run on newer versions of Windows (backward compatibility never has been a Microsoft strong point.....).

Martyuk wrote:
but how long should I leave it before getting it running on gas? should I do the first 500-1000 run in miles on petrol and then look at it once the first oil change is done, or should I just go for it and get it up and running whenever I can?

Mine was out of gas when I put the engine back in and and built it up (I did it the Chris method and fitted the naked block then built the engine up in the car). I ran it for the first time (with only the downpipes to see what it sounded like) to check that everything was working and nothing was leaking, then took it on it's first drive (after connecting the exhaust) of 3 miles down the road to fill it up and I ran on gas from there on in. Fuel is fuel and as long as the trims stay in spec, then it won't make any difference which you run on.