Just seen your reply regarding Scotty on the other site. A perfect example of how to say something without actually saying it.

You have been busy, no Check Engine light and now the EAS is working as it should. Now get out there and drive it........

Adaptive values should be reset so it can start learning from scratch rather than having to correct from incorrect (if you follow what I mean) but as long as it will run, it'll soon adjust itself anyway.

If the reducer is freezing, that's your problem. Does the heater blow hot air?

Have a look at the last post in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/203?page=3. Is it possible you've done something similar? Don't forget that Ray is in Canada so has a US spec car where the Check Engine light comes on at the slightest hint of a problem where ours ignore most problems so you won't get it on yours.

But there's the rub, a few quid more. In fact, when you look at the quantity needed per vehicle and the number of vehicles being built, it probably only comes to pennies but every penny makes a difference. It's much the same with the grade of steel used for valves and valve seats. Many cars, like ours for instance, can run on LPG with no need for a valve seat lubricant because the steel used is hard enough but others can't. Harder steel costs more so that adds to the overall cost of the vehicle so some manufacturers use a grade of steel that is just hard enough to last for their projected lifetime when run on unleaded fuel with it's added lubricant, remove that lubricant and the valve seats wear away at an alarming rate.

Martyuk wrote:

and whack an audience heater core in...

Predictive text strikes again..... Or, rather than spend a fortune on 22mm hose, why not buy a replacement genuine hose that flares out to 22mm at the end and chop off the end 4 inches?

Leak in the exhaust manifold you'd hear and it didn't sound like it had one on the video. You can at least check you've got ignition switched 12V arriving at the sensor connector.

Plonker..... However, what are the other two holes in the underside of the plenum? One near the top in the pic that appears to be countersunk and one next to the throttle cable plate. I'm fairly sure mine doesn't have them.

Even if you'd had it fitted, it's unlikely the installer would have told you how he'd done it. A photo of the heater hoses were they go to the reducer would help.

Only you know how to get the air out as only you know how it is plumbed. Start the engine and let it run, feel the hose to the heater and also the hose to the reducer, they should be at the same temperature. Run the car on gas until it changes from gas to petrol, as soon as it does, open the bonnet and see what temperature the reducer is at then. If it's cold, then you've got air in it. You'll need to slacken the highest hose and bleed the air out.

Check the electrical connections to the solenoids, there will be one on the tank and another by the reducer. Make sure they are tight, not rusted and there aren't any cracks in the insulation. It's not uncommon for the insulation to crack and allow moisture in which will corrode the cable.

If you've swapped the sensors over and the problem stays with bank B then you've got a problem on bank B or in the wiring to the lambda sensor. If you can power it and it doesn't get hot, then that suggests wiring. Might be worth taking the other one out and seeing if that gets hot? I only say that as the heater circuit is provided with ignition switched volts on one side but the other side is grounded via the ECU so maybe it doesn't ground it until the engine is running. You could certainly try plugging the hole in the manifold with a spare lambda sensor and seeing how it runs like that and if the lambda sensor does actually get hot.

That was me persuading another LPG powered P38 away from the dark side. It will changeover to gas when the reducer reaches a temperature that has been preset in the BRC software, it MAY switch back to petrol if the temperature drops below that preset level (some systems do, others don't). If you've got an airlock or poor coolant flow through the reducer, then it will heat up initially and switch to gas. As you drive the liquid Propane will cool things down as it vaporises but normally the coolant will provide enough latent heat that it doesn't matter. If the coolant flow is low due to a restriction or an air lock, then the vaporisation will cool the reducer down too much so it switches back to petrol. Run for another 10 minutes and the reducer heats up again so it goes back to LPG. If you've had an overheating problem so have lost coolant, particularly if the reducer is plumbed in parallel with the heater matrix and mounted fairly high in the engine bay, then it could be full of air.

The other possibility is that one of the solenoids drops out, gas pressure drops and the system switches back to petrol as it thinks you've run out of gas. It might be that you have a poor connection on the feed to a solenoid which heats up with current flow. As it heats up the resistance rises and the solenoid drops out, as the connection cools down, it will pull in again.

Especially if the main power feed to the LPG system is taken directly from the battery (as it should be if installed properly), an intermittent connection, even very momentary, will be enough for the solenoids to drop out.

Does it do it when you boot it or just when driving at constant speed? When it switches back to petrol, open the bonnet and check the reducer temperature, it should be bloody hot. That should narrow down whether it is a pressure problem or a temperature problem.

Not sure why it's staying in open loop until it is fully up to temperature unless it is detecting that there's nothing from the lambda sensor. When it open loop it will be running on a default fuel map so not applying any long or short trim corrections. Once it does go closed loop then it applies corrections that it has stored from the last time it was run. The lambda sensors have built in heaters so they start giving an output as soon as they are up to temperature but will still get up to temperature by being heated by the exhaust gases, the heaters are just there to speed things up. A lot of cars use single and two wire sensors that don't have heaters. Did you ever swap them side to side to see if the problem moves as it certainly sounds like you have a dead sensor there.

It isn't just the Philippines George. I've sent stuff that was urgent by Royal Mail International Priority to France. Tracking has shown it to have arrived in France the following day only for it to sit around for 3 or 4 days before being sent out for delivery. Royal mail quote 2-3 days for delivery but tell you that they can't be held responsible for delays at the other end and everyone knows that nothing is urgent in France. As the Philippines was Spanish ruled for many years, that's probably were it originates from. We all know the Spanish are even more laid back than the French!

But at least they are on their way, all you've got to hope is that they are right this time.......

Martyuk wrote:

I am somewhat hesitant to share a lot of that at the moment, as the last time I shared BECM info that I had spent a lot of time working out an researching - it was supposedly in exchange for some information back my way.. which, you guessed it... never materialised...

Yeah but that was with the Doctor, not nice friendly, reliable, non-US citizens, on here........

Watching it slowed down and counting the pulses, either your flashers aren't showing every pulse or there's odd ones that miss a beat now and then, they aren't completely regular. Unlikely to be a coil as that would give the same symptoms on the other bank. HT leads would be the next place to look, particularly with it idling in the dark and see if there is any arcing anywhere. Or just give it a new set.

Agree totally with Marty on the later Classics. I had a 93 Vogue LSE so it had every option going. That had a wiring loom that probably dated back to the original Classic in the early 70's. As more bits were fitted, more bits were tacked on anywhere they could find space so there are relays and fuses in just about every bit of spare space. Under both front seats, behind the kick panels, behind the dash, you name it, anywhere they could find room to fit them. The P38 is beautifully simple in comparison.

As for longevity, Misubishi produced ECU's for their own cars, Suzuki and Toyota. They used cheap electrolytic capacitors that burst resulting in no sparks. This affected virtually all models from 3 manufacturers from the early 80's up until the mid 90's. I've replaced the caps in a couple of Suzuki ECUs that has bought them back to life after the owner had been told that their only option was a new ECU at £600. That isn't worth it most of the time as that is probably about what the car is worth. I've seen, and nearly bought before having second thoughts, things like Misubishi 3000GTOs that are being sold as non runners with an ignition fault. If the ECU can't be repaired then it's new ECU time, unless the car is an import (as many are), then an EU spec ECU won't fit so the car is scrap.