Huh? Is your heater bypassed or just blanked off? When I picked up the SE it had the reducer in parallel but the heater matrix replaced with two 90 degree plumbing fittings. As there was no restriction for the coolant through the bypass, nothing was flowing through the reducer. It would get warm enough to switch over but then the chilling effect of the vaporisation would cool it down and it would start to run ridiculously rich after about 30 seconds as the reducer started to freeze. I stopped, folded the hose over on itself and put a tie wrap around it so all of the heater flow went through the reducer so I could drive it home on LPG (and 6 cylinders as one head gasket had blown between the middle two cylinders).

So if you have the heater matrix bypassed, I'm surprised it will even run on gas. I'm also not sure how you are driving it in this weather. You're a fair bit further north than me and I wouldn't want to drive mine at the moment with no heater!

Errm, the two sticky up bits are towards you, the flat bit goes in first (with the actual filter element on the top). They should slide in and curve as they go in and OEM ones actually click into place.

Ferryman wrote:

Parallel gives the neatest install (and can swap the matrix when needed and keep the LPG functional) but in series you are sure they both get heat.

Parallel gives a messy looking engine bay with Tee pieces everywhere and reduced coolant flow through both the heater matrix and the reducer. Horrible bodge dating back to the days when heater temperature was controlled by a valve restricting the flow. On a P38 (and RR Classic) it wants to be series every time. How often do you need to change the matrix anyway?

For what? No picture......

It's better to ground everything back to the battery. Mine originally had the ground to the tank solenoid and gauge tied to the tank mounting bolt. The level gauge would give a different reading depending on whether the tank solenoid was pulled in or not due to a small voltage drop in the ground. Tying all the grounds together and bringing a single main ground back to the battery meant that they are all at the same potential. However, that's just best practice and isn't going to cure your intermittent problem which is almost certainly in one of the supplies, most likely the ignition switched.

There's no real error correction. If it gets power, it powers up, if a solenoid doesn't work because of a high resistance connection, a dead coil or even completely disconnected, a modern ECU will detect a problem and flag an error (and not allow it to try to energise) whereas an older one will just detect the lack of gas pressure and not switch (or not dewtect the lack of gas pressure and the engine stops).

How did you get it open in the end? My drivers side catch was sometimes giving me the bonnet open message even though it was so I decided to adjust it. In doing so I got it to the point where it wouldn't release properly and the bonnet was stuck shut. No amount of pulling on it would get it open so I had to look for another way. From underneath I found I could just see the conical bit sticking through and managed to get a length of quarter inch steel bar onto the cone. Jammed the lever out so the cable was releasing the catch, put the end of the rod on the cone and tapped it with a hammer, bonnet popped open.

dazer2000 wrote:

They rang me yesterday to say that they had stripped it (my original box) and that it had failed because of oil circulation lack of ( I have only had since may so do not blame me ) again wrong services on a car that caused it to fail by people that use kwik fit like of places.
Anyway box being re-built now and have a good price (£1300) for it,

I assume that's fully fitted and warranted at that price? Ashcrofts only charge £725 exchange for a reconditioned box.

and here is your award

If you can master changing wiper blades and batteries too, you could get a job at Halfords......

Orangebean wrote:

Just noticed that the main forum "Oily Bits" and an unread thread link from George relating to his interior (!) brings you straight to this page, which is good if you're into my LPG ramblings, but not so good if you want to know about George!

Yes I noticed that this morning. It looks like George posted in the dodgy pollen filters thread but his post hasn't appeared (or he deleted it) although the forum still thinks it's there so is showing an unread post. Quite why clicking the link to the post takes you to this thread I've no idea, unless it is taking us to the most recent post.

The pipe between the two solenoids will be full of liquid gas. Assuming 3m of 8mm pipe, that's 75ml of liquid. When Propane vaporises, each litre of liquid becomes 270 litres of vapour, that'll give you over 20 litres of vapour so a little bit of bubbling will go on for any awfully long time.

From memory mine is different to that shown in the Nanocom documentation. The front fogs have something like sidelights as the setting which I've assumed to mean they can be switched on with just sidelights and have always assumed that other options would be dipped beam or not fitted, maybe you've turned them off?

Maybe you had an iffy connection on the common supply to the petrol injectors? That would explain the LPG system getting offended and the popping and banging when running on petrol. If you had a high resistance in it anywhere, the LPG system would be seeing something less than 12V so wouldn't wake up and the petrol injectors wouldn't be getting a full supply.

I must admit when I first got the Nano I was wary of even going into the BECM settings in case I screwed something up. When I finally did, I found mine thought I had a Thor. Changing it to GEMS didn't seem to make the slightest bit of difference though. I have discovered an interesting one. I recently plucked up the courage to change something and turned off Passive Immobilisation and while in there I noticed that Intermittent Wipe was set to Disabled. This seemed pretty odd as intermittent wipe works perfectly (or has since I filled the switch with contact cleaner). I have noticed a difference though. Now, if I have the wipers on and stop at a set of lights, they go into intermittent while stationary and go back to continuous as soon as I start to move, just like my works Renault. Not sure if it's a good thing or not but at least we now know what that command does.

I must admit, I thought things must be going reasonably well today as the posts had got less. That suggested you were getting on with it rather than avoiding it and posting on here instead.

I've just got a day of working from home so I'm switching between this laptop and the works one where I'm halfway through writing a particularly boring H&S paper......

Shake at idle could be down to it idling on 7 which would cause the problem in the first place. Do you get any P030x fault codes logged? If you do that will tell you which cylinder is misfiring. If not, while idling get your rubber gloves and a big insulated pair of pliers out and try pulling an HT lead one at a time (at least bank B is easier to get at). The one you can pull off without the idle changing is the one that isn't firing. If you put your nice new plugs in, then you've got a good baseline to start from. If you can still pull a pluglead off without the idle changing you at looking at the HT lead then. The ignition coils are paired so if one of them had failed, you'd have 2 cylinders not firing (one on each bank).

It might be that you have cured the problem and the adaptive values need to be reset (setting the long and short trims back to zero) so until that happens it is still going to run rough. If you don't have a method of resetting them (Nanocom, Faultmate, Lynx, etc), the only thing you can do is drive it and let them reset themselves. You will be looking to see the Bank B lambda sensor going fully rich (1V or at least higher than 0.5V) and the short term trim on bank B going permanently negative as it tries to lean the mixture off. If the short term trim is permanently negative, the long term trim will start to drift down to get it back where it should be.

At least you live in a civilised country though https://eandt.theiet.org/content/articles/2017/01/paris-bans-old-polluting-diesel-cars/

After 8 pages, thank f*ck for that......

If I want to be really thorough, I spray with contact cleaner and then use a bronze tipped inductor trim tool (intended for trimming the inductors in transmitter PA stages) to simulate the pin that would go into the socket. But, having just search the entire interweb, it seems you can't buy them anywhere these days, only plastic ones. You could trim a piece of a feeler gauge and use that instead.

If you've got dodgy connections there, it could explain all sorts of problems. However, the common supply for the injectors doesn't come from C0636, in fact, it doesn't come from the ECU at all. The pulse to injector 1, and all the other injectors, comes from C0636 but not the common power, it comes directly from fuse 37 via relay 19 (brown/orange wire). A feed goes to pin 8 of C0634 but it splits in the loom before it gets to the ECU and goes off to the injectors from there. You could easily pick up the ignition switched supply for the LPG from Pin 8 of C0634.

However, an admission that may explain why you are having problems. It was trying to use my generic OBD reader on Dina's sister's geriatric VW Golf and it wouldn't connect. Not having any contact cleaner handy, I gave the socket a squirt of carb cleaner instead. Still wouldn't connect and then found I couldn't unplug the reader as the carb cleaner had melted the plastic and welded the plug and socket together. Got it out with brute force and ignorance but took me ages to clean the plastic off the pins so my reader would work again. I wonder if someone has done the same with your ECU and the pins are covered in a thin layer of plastic?

I was joking actually, but........

Of course they can. They'll disintegrate, end up being chopped into little pieces in the blowers and the noise will drive you bonkers.