It doesn't matter where it comes from as long as it is there. It doesn't even have to come from the common petrol injector feed, it can come from any ignition switched supply. However, be wary that the Acc supply usually goes off during cranking which can cause problems which is why the injector feed is favourite. On both of mine it's picked up at the petrol ECU (along with the TPS, rpm and, in the case of the SE with it's multipoint, the injector cuts).

I think the fact that every time I go down there I call in at Carrefour Antibes and bung at least a couple of cases in the boot to bring back would confirm I do. It has to be French though, none of this new world fake stuff (except for Bulgarian Merlot which we drank by the gallon at my brothers wedding in Sofia). In fact the rather nice Chablis we had with our Christmas dinner had travelled from Antibes.....

I should have taken a picture of the two I took out of my mates car last weekend. It's lived in France for almost 10 years and it looked like they have never been replaced in all that time.

Mark, I would suggest you try hanging your meter on the +ve feeds and seeing what voltage it shows while the light comes on for a few seconds and then what it reads when it goes out. It sounds like you have a high resistance connection in one of the power feeds that is dropping the voltage when current is being drawn. Personally I'd suspect the ignition switched as I think the permanent is just switched by the controller and used to energise the solenoids while the ignition switched supplies the main circuitry.

The fact that the readings are permanently low and when disconnected you get an error saying it isn't detecting it would all point to a dead sensor even if it is new. Presumably you didn't get time to swap them? Either that, or knowing how cold it's been here today and that the Paris weather is usually much the same as ours, it was too bloody cold!

But, the values from TORQUE look odd. The Lambda sensor outputs for bank B look how would be expected with a dead lambda sensor, as do the long and short trims (both going very rich), but why is bank A going fully lean? Do you have any means of resetting the adaptive values?

One other thought, is it running on all 8? If one cylinder on bank B isn't firing, the air being drawn into that cylinder isn't going to be burnt so the O2 sensor will see far more Oxygen than it expects (as they only detect Oxygen and not fuel) and assume a lean mixture. That will make it throw more fuel into the cylinders on that bank. So as well as having one cylinder being fed with fuel but not burning it and spitting it out of the exhaust, the other 3 will be getting far more than they want so the excess will also end up in the exhaust. Result will be poor economy, rough running and a smell of fuel in the exhaust. With 3 cylinders running very rich it will be running so rough you may not even notice that one cylinder is doing nothing. Spark plugs and leads would be the likely cure here.

Just noticed the word bar. That gives me an excuse to take the westerly route on the Periphique when I'm next driving down south. Although looking at the map, on the one occasion I went to Versailles, I parked up just around the corner (while the girlfriend of the time went to look round the gardens).

The tank looks old and as the seller bought the kit to fit but hasn't, you've no way of knowing if it works or not. It might be good, but equally it might need new injectors and reducer and the tank could be over 10 years old so not certifiable. You'd be paying 100 quid for a secondhand ECU and a loom that is likely to have been well butchered. If buying secondhand you'd be better to buy something that you can at least see running on a car and remove it yourself.

Nick has answered most of what you need to know on the audio front.

At that price it may be worth a punt but only may. If it's some oddball system with no support, programming software and spares no longer available then you may find you've bought an old tank and a few useless bits. Find out what it is first and the date code on the tank too.

If you buy the head gasket set from Island (go for the one with Elring gaskets) you'll get a set of valve stem seals in the set so you may as well fit them while the heads are off. Same really goes for lapping the valves in, if the springs are off to change the stem seals, why not?

An aftermarket head unit with line level outputs will be just that, industry standard line level, usually 1V p-p, but the original puts out more than that so the danger is that the amps will be under driven. Using the speaker outputs and the attenuator network works well as the levels and impedance are correct. Anything with an output for a sub, can be connected to the original sub so even that will work. The difference in the remote controls between early and late is the values of resistors used so if using an aftermarket head unit you just need the suitable adapter to suit the later steering wheel.

UJ's, take them off and give them a wiggle. They can appear to be fine while still attached to the car unless they are really shot, so disconnecting one end of a propshaft is the only way to be sure.

Multipoint LPG will be slightly more efficient but neither will contribute to head or liner issues. That's yet another old wives tale from people that know naff all about LPG conversions. My first LPG car was an old Saab 900 and I mentioned to a highly regarded Saab specialist that it was running on LPG and he told me the valves would be shot in 10,000 miles. When I told him it had 260,000 miles on the clock, had been converted at 40,000 miles and the head had never been off in it's life, he just shrugged and walked away. You'll get a 90 litre full toroidal tank in the spare wheel well, good for around 240 ish miles range. Hardly worth messing around with smaller additional ones. The smaller petrol tanks are for the Classic not the P38 and the torpedo tanks along the chassis rails were fitted to Discovery's which don't have a spare wheel well. They are also relatively small so not really worth the effort and complication. Simon, LPGC, will supply you a kit of parts to fit yourself or will do you a complete conversion. You can get a kit from the likes of LPGShop but if you get stuck while fitting it you are on your own whereas Simon prides himself on after sales service no matter how stupid the question. Drop him a PM and see what he would charge and compare it with your local installers.

I wouldn't have thought they are any better than Jubilee clips surely? If the hose starts to go soft so they are no longer tight enough, at least with a Jubilee clip you can tighten it up while they are a fixed size.

Island are often cheapest for most bits, LRDirect are good too and Rimmers are more expensive but their next day delivery is just that if you are in a hurry for something.

Can't be arsed to inline answer so comments in order:

Head gaskets, yes, once the inlet is off it's just a pair of pretty basic 4 cylinder pushrod engines so you may as well do both. Leave the engine in, the only awkward part is the rear bolt on the drivers side exhaust manifold, and the heatshields but I suspect it's that side that's missing anyway as it's such a pain to get on or off with the steering column in the way. Rather than using the stretch bolts, fit a set of ARB studs instead. Not cheap but well worth it.

Just been through the stereo re-installation on a very similar condition 98 that a mate of mine has just acquired. If you have the Harmon Kardon logo on the tweeter housings, you have the high line system. You could fit an aftermarket head unit with line out levels (or make up some attenuators and run speaker level to the amps) but chances are the steering wheel controls won't work with it without more bodgery. My mate wanted it to work as intended and look original but add a line in so he can use Spotify on his phone as the source. The radio you need is PRC7618 (a Land Rover badged Clarion PU9836A) but we found them to be like rocking horse manure. There's a seller on eBay that has some spares or repair ones and Gordon may be able to get a dead one working for you but you'd still need to find the security code for it.

The Martrim headlining kit colour match is spot on, or at least it was on the light grey one I got to fit in mine. I've left my pillar trims as plain plastic but headlights reflect off the A posts so can be a bit distracting. The headlining trim is foam backed so using some of the left overs isn't going to be easy with the slots for the seatbelt mounts. I'm still not sure but will probably paint them if I can find a matt finish paint that matches the headlining.

Depending on how bad the seat is really. If it's repairable, then that would probably be the cheaper option.

If the UJ's haven't been greased regularly, then they are almost a service item to be changed as and when. I'm sure Gordon has done some on his and they aren't difficult or expensive.

LPG, if you go for a single point system like me and Gordon both have, is pretty straightforward to fit and works well on a GEMS engined car. Multipoint can still be done yourself but is a bit more work to install and set up. Some insurance companies want to see a conversion certificate which can be had by getting the install inspected to ensure it complies with the regulations.

SRS fault code reading and resetting needs a specialist reader not just your generic OBD reader so a Nanocom, Faultmate or similar is needed. I'm fairly sure there's someone up in your neck of the woods with a Nano.

Bits of plastic trim is readily available from many breakers, eBay is your friend here.

A Nanocom will also read the fault codes and tell you why the heating isn't working properly but blend motors can often be repaired rather than replaced. Get some bulbs in there so you can see what it is doing then try winding the temperature up and down and seeing if it changes. The Prog button should switch on the front and rear screen heaters, set the temperature on high, the fans on full (but not until there is some heat in the heater matrix) and the flow to the screen. If it doesn't, then you definitely have blend motor problems.

Nothing you have found is difficult or particularly expensive either. Maybe a couple of weekends is optimistic but if you do the jobs a bit at a time (other than the head gaskets you've got nothing there that will stop the car being used while you work on it) you'll have it all sorted fairly soon.

You mean this is the one where you can flash the lights with them already on and not get main beam instead? I figured they must have made one where the switch worked properly, seems this is the one.

I've never seen a battery cover either......

OB, stop fretting and making everything seem so doom and gloom. The LPG ECU won't have lost any settings, they can be left on a shelf with no power for years without losing settings. It has run on LPG in the past and there's nothing to say it won't now (as long as it gets power). If you get it running properly on petrol, the existing settings saved in the controller will make it work on gas. The settings may not be optimum but they are likely to be pretty close. It's only sad buggers that like to fiddle that even have the software, most users just get in and drive. If the stored settings are slightly out, the petrol ECU will adjust the fuel trims to get the mixture correct on gas.

I doubt Halfrauds will have any of the bulbs in all honesty, you'll need to order them from one of the specialists. For the switches, STC1877 for the Orange bulbs in the switches to show they are on (except the front fog lamp switch that lights up green when on), the green backlight ones are STC1878 if you need any of them (and the one to tell you the front fogs are on too).

There's three types fitted in the HEVAC unit, black bodied ones (STC3868), a green bodied one (STC3869) and a standard 1.2 W wedge ended one in the front behind the AUTO pushbutton (STC3635 is the part number but that is probably the only one Halfords will have). The green one is for the LCD display and is higher power than the black bodied ones. There's a seller on eBay who will supply a complete set for not a lot.

I've driven past it about 120 times but I think I did stop there once (intentionally, not due to a breakdown). When I was at my mates last week we worked out that I've driven to his place just outside of Nice around 60 times in the last 23 years. At just under 2,000 miles round trip, that means I've done 120,000 miles in France and paid out just over 11,000 Euros in motorway tolls......

Now you've found the ignition switched supply, the LPG switch should light up now. You've got it back to how it was 5 days ago......

That one tends to be ridiculously slow, I suspect because the Yanks don't like sharing stuff with us over here (which is why Gordon hosted it on his site in the first place but hasn't updated the link since changing over to rangerovers.pub). Alternatively, I've uploaded it to Google Drive https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzxqPPypF5J5N0EteXN2Q2I5WTQ

The problems you've got are all pretty standard
Give it a new battery.
New head gasket
Heatshields aren't that critical, I ran for about 40,000 miles with one missing and nothing suffered
It will be down on power if a HG is blowing.....
Weld the sidestep or take it off. Unless you really need it or like it. all they do is reduce the ground clearance
It may well have once had the high line system with amps in the doors so will have needed a lot of mucking about to make a standard head unit work.
The two aerial plugs confirm a high line system, one on each rear side window as the original radio was a diversity unit.
I spent last weekend replacing dash bulbs on one a mate has recently got, simple enough to do.
Martrim do a headlining kit for the P38 http://www.martrim.co.uk/catalogue/landrover-headlining-kit.html
If you mean the trim inside the car it was a sort of stuck on flocking. It can be scraped off easily enough and the residue cleaned off with white spirit. Then you can either leave it as plain beige plastic, trim it with a bit of cloth or paint it.
Torn seat is common but seats are readily available on eBay
Out of balance wheels or dodgy propshaft UJ's would be the first place to start.
It does need an LPG conversion.....
May be a problem, may need a reset. Post 99 cars reset the SRS light once the fault was removed, early ones don't.
So set them then. Send each one all the way down then all the way back up again and they are then set (until the next time the battery goes flat/is disconnected).
Easy enough to pull it out (from inside) and take it to bits. Usual problem is the spring rusting and jamming things up.
It's a 20 year old example of an engine that was designed over 50 years ago. If it isn't oily there isn't any in it.
Even in Scotland the 20 year old plastic will have been exposed to some UV and gone brittle.....
Replace the split pipes and if it still doesn't work, it'll be dry solder joints in the control module.
You're lucky, usually they don't work at all because people have sat on the seats and broken the elements.
They all have a heated windscreen but the connections to the screen either drop off or the elements no longer make contact at the bottom. Only answer is that big rock that is going to cause a stone chip which will spread across the windscreen.
Until you get some lights behind the display you aren't going to be able to see what it is doing but if you can't change the temperature or where the air is going, then you need to do the blend motors see http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html

Sounds like you've got a couple of weekends work there.......

Yes you have a piggy back loom. The original petrol injector plugs go into sockets on that loom which goes to the LPG controller and then comes back with plugs that go to the petrol injectors. Ordinarily, the plugs on the factory loom would go straight to the petrol injectors. On one bank, there will simply be 8 wires in the loom going back to the LPG controller, a flow and return for the injector pulse signal using the plumbing analogy. On the other bank there will be these 8 wires and an additional wire which will pick up the common ignition switched supply from the other side of one of the injectors.

There has to be the injector cut wires somewhere and that is almost certainly where the red/white wire for the LPG system is picking up the ignition switched supply. Each injector has a common power wire and a signal wire from the petrol ECU. This signal wire has to be intercepted so the petrol injector pulses go via the LPG controller (so the controller can use them to fire the LPG injectors and to disconnect the petrol injectors). If you only have one wire going into the petrol ECU then the injector cuts must be done at the petrol injectors. This is often done using a supplementary loom with a male and female petrol injector plug. You disconnect the original petrol injector plug, plug that into the female socket on the loom and the corresponding male plug goes onto the petrol injector. Do you have far too many plugs under there?

gordonjcp wrote:

Oh man wouldn't that piss on RRTH's chips, an Achievement Badge system for poaching his users!

I've already got the Achievement Badge, it's a lifetime ban from RR.net.......

With the sensor unplugged, especially if you unplug it from the ECU too, you should see 0V as all you are looking at is a length of wire that is disconnected at both ends. However, some cheaper digital multimeters will always display a voltage with the probe connected to nothing, the only way you can make then read zero is to ground both probes.

Simon and OB both got it wrong. GEMS Titania sensors are 5-0V with high, around 4.8V, being lean and 0.2V being rich (that's the range mine switch over anyway) whereas Thor (the bunch of bananas engine) use 0-1V Zirconia sensors with 0V, or pretty close to 0, being lean and 1V being rich. A 99 model will be XA VIN so will be a Thor (but could well have been built any time after September 98).

OB was right on the problem with GEMS and generic OBD readers though. As the standard expects a signal from 0-1V, that is what they display. Some simply display a 5V signal as 1V which can make you think that a lean signal is actually rich while others drop the displayed voltage and transpose it too so it is right. Thor, being fully OBD compliant will always display correctly as RRHSG has confirmed, low volts saying it is lean and an ECU that is trying to correct the problem by throwing more and more fuel in.