Marty, Ray at V8 Dev told me to run mine for 1,000 miles on good old mineral 20W-50 then change it for fully synthetic 10W-50 or 10W-60. I got my engine in and running at about 2:30 on a Sunday but had to set off for a week working in Leeds at 6pm that same night. So I used it for the 100 mile trip there, then took it out for a 50-60 mile run every evening to get some miles on it and hit the 1,000 mile mark in less than a couple of weeks. Since then it's 10W-60 every 10,000 miles along with a new filter and a set of NGK plugs.

I would have replied over there but RRTH banned me for life so bugger him. 0V or a very low reading means a lean mixture so you will get a lean mixture error code. The ECU will be enrichening the mixture to try to correct it but the lambda sensor still shows 0V so it still thinks it's running lean. What you need to do is find out why you are getting the low reading. First thing I'd do is rule out the lambda sensor by swapping them side to side. If the problem stays with bank B it isn't a dodgy sensor. Then try it with the sensor unplugged, does it stay at 0.04V or drop to zero? Also check for a short to ground on the signal wire while the sensor is unplugged to check for a wiring error. You can always try the same checks on the other bank to compare what you find. If you suspect a short to ground in the wiring, unplugging at both ends (sensor and ECU) will confirm that or not.

The lambda signal connections for the LPG system aren't needed for it to run, just so the lambda signal can be displayed on the LPG diagnostic screen, so disconnecting them won't have any effect on the LPG running but will also rule out a short on that side of the wiring.

As well as having no power to the LPG system, it was misfiring, popping and banging and generally running like a dog on petrol. That's what happens when you get the HT leads for cylinders 4 and 6 arse about face.......

Wouldn't stop the LPG system from powering up though.

Plonker.... Seems the headlights will be the only bright things in the area.

Before it all went dead and quiet, he was able to connect with a couple of different versions of the software but on the Config page, all of them only gave the option of 3 or 4 cylinders, not 5,6 or 8 as you would expect with a 2568 controller. Now I don't think it should matter too much as that is only for setting the rpm so by fiddling with the ignition type, it should be possible to set 4 cylinders and get it showing the correct rpm. But does it mean that it will only show him 4 injectors and not a full set?

Well yes, I did assume that we all have working EAS and headlamp wash/wipe. I'm trying to decide if it's worth £70 to cause my MoT tester to scratch his head and have to get his book out.

John Craddock lists the bulbholder and is the only supplier that doesn't say it is out of stock or obsolete. Maybe he's got a stash of them?

It used to be that the maximum wattage allowed was a total of 110W on dipped beam (which is why a standard bulb is 55W) but no limit on main beam so 100/55W bulbs are perfectly legal. I ran them for a while on one of my cars but found that when going from main to dipped, the difference meant that you may as well switch the lights off. The standard P38 lights are great on main beam as there's the extra bulbs in there but dip is where they could do with a bit more output.

For the IVA test (Individual Vehicle Approval, what has replaced the old SVA and is needed for kit cars and imports), there is no mention of wattage or output other than "Where vehicles are fitted with Gas Discharge or LED Headlamps there is no requirement for headlamp cleaning if the light output is below 2000 Lumens (evidence must be provided)". I did notice recently that my MoT testers beam checking machine has a light meter marked with the light output expected from 'Tungsten', 'Halogen' and 'Other' headlights although there's nothing in the testers manual to say a fail is if there is not enough or too much light other than:
An obligatory headlamp:
a. inoperative, excessively damaged or
deteriorated or has a product on the lens or
light source so that the light output is well
below that required to illuminate the road
ahead. (Reason for Rejection 1.7.5a)

So it seems that we are all legal no matter what bulbs we have fitted.......

Beat you to it......

and I suspect Simon has even more. There used to be a DVD being sold on eBay that was a collection of just about every bit of LPG software (mostly freeware but some not) out there. This is an image of that DVD. Most folders contain more than one version so there's earlier and later versions in case an older system won't talk to newer software. In the case of Zavoli, I've got versions 3 (3.0.1), 4 (4.6.3 and 4.7.6) and 6 (6.0.300 and 6.0.308) but no version 5. If 5 is the correct one for the B suffix hardware, I would have expected anything earlier to have worked.

No Simon, Tony is referring to his system from Vogels (http://www.vogelsautogas.nl/page.html) in Holland. As they are the Dutch importer for OMVL and use a lot of AEB bits, it's very likely they use yet another re-badged AEB controller.

While you are playing with it, how about setting the clock? It still thinks we are on BST so you sent the last post in 56 minutes time.....

Orangebean wrote:

I didn't remove any plugs from the LPG ECU at all. The other ends- that go into the Matrix units, stayed on their own side of the respective heads , so I don't think I could have Simon.

Simon is referring to the cables that go to the petrol ECU not the LPG injectors. You've got two looms, one per bank, and one has the pickup for the ignition switched supply, the other doesn't. So you'll have one loom with 8 wires, two per injector cut feed, and one with 9 wires, the injector cuts plus the supply from the common ignition switched supply to the petrol injectors. If you've swapped the plugs over, the ignition switched supply won't be going anywhere.

Having just gone through about 100 different pdf files, I can't find it. However, if you use the installation diagrams, that shows what colour wires go where so by taking the back off the plugs, you'll be able to see which wires are connected to which pins.

If the standard of questions asked by some on the other site is anything to go by, asking them how many wheels it has would be too difficult for some......

That's right. There's the permanent live that should come directly from the battery (via a fuse obviously) while the ignition switched supply is on a red/white wire that connects to the common positive supply to the petrol injectors.

I changed my condenser with the bumper in place, a bit fiddly but it can be done. The same goes for the condenser fans. Maybe I've just got small hands......

Ignition switched. Somewhere, I've got a diagram that shows the pinouts for the AEB ECU so you can check that you have the correct voltages in the correct places. Can I find it? It's in the same place as your non-return valves......

Simon may have it though and I'm sure he'll be along soon.

Yes, negative meter probe to ground and check the others with the positive probe.

If you are sure there is 12V arriving at the ECU, the next place to look would be at the switch. There should be 4 wires, a 12V, a ground and two data lines which will probably show as 5V with a normal meter.

I bet they will..... I caught the corner of my front bumper on a trailer and cracked it so decided to take it off to repair it. You know that feeling when you are putting lots of grunt onto a bolt and you just know it is twisting rather than coming undone? That's how it felt so I figure that if I ever really have to take it off, it will have to be done with the big yellow spanner at a time when I've got a replacement ready to go on in it's place. Ended up repairing the crack in situ, not perfect but a blind man would be pleased to see it.