The engine disabled, press remote message will usually come on if you unlock the car, so turning off the immobiliser, but don't start the engine within 60 seconds when the passive immobilisation kicks in. I've got into the habit of pressing unlock before I try to start the car whether I've only just unlocked it or if it's been unlocked for ages so it starts immediately. If you turn off immobiliser with the Nanocom, then that re-immobilisation after 60 seconds no longer happens. Sounds like yours was already unlocked, either with the key or by entering the EKA, but you left it too long before trying to start it. Now you've turned that 'feature' off, it starts. In fact, I turned it off on mine before dropping it off at the paintshop so they can just get in it and start it no matter how long ago it was unlocked (as I doubt they will even lock it as it's going to be inside most of the time). I know the later ones are different to mine with the passive sync when you put the key in the ignition, on an earlier car it has to be done in the door lock, but I will admit I have never seen the light on my fob come on when the key is in the ignition, only when I press a button, not at any other time.

Once you've got the EKA entered so it will start, then you should be able to lock and unlock with the key. If locked with the fob but unlocked with the key then the immobiliser is still on, however, if you lock with the key, you can unlock with the key and the immobiliser should be turned off. If you use the Nano to turn off Immobilisation then you won't get the press remote or enter code message if you don't start it immediately. My SE is set like this as I've only managed to get the fob to work for about 10 minutes before it has died again. When I bought it, I was given the key blade to use and the fob was separate and had never been used by the previous owner.

Can you start it if you enter the EKA through the door lock?

At this rate, I'll be getting a shiny white one back before OB gets his shiny black one......

Any news on when it might appear Mark?

The solder holding the two contacts can crack so you get a dry joint. Hardest part is getting the two halves of the fob apart. I also got the Key Battery Low warning last week, so decided I'd put some new batteries in it. Got the back off with a 50p piece (but I have been known to drill two small holes in the back so I can use the points of a pair of needle nosed pliers to undo it), changed the batteries and it didn't work. No red light, no nothing. After mucking about with it for about an hour (including putting the old batteries back and finding it still didn't work) I decided that the solder had cracked from me messing around with it. The only way I could get the fob apart (original LR one not an eBay special) was to wedge a Stanley knife blade in the seam and then put the blade and fob in a vice. With a bit of careful squeezing, the fob popped open on the one side. Had to do both sides and one end before I could get it apart though. Re-soldered the contacts even though they looked perfectly OK, tried the battery on the pcb out of the case and still nothing. Then looked at it again and realised I'd been trying it with the batteries in upside down. The big + on the bottom of the battery holder, isn't there for decoration.........

I suspect he might be...... Or he's getting a hell of a mismatch using that on his Hytera DMR system.

Yup, got a fixed UK/Dutch bayonet filler and Acme screw and Italian cup adapters in the centre cubby. At least those are the 22mm threaded ones, the scary ones are the little 10mm threaded adapters. Made of brass and with the weight of the filler gun hanging on them, I've seen one snap off with the weight and spray LPG all over the forecourt.

A lot of continental installs hide the filler like that. Problem is that the UK rules say that you must be able to fill without using an adapter. The rules are in a code of practice so not mandatory but if your insurance company want to see a certificate then an inspector will fail it with a filler like that.

You could always do what was done on an old Saab I bought many years ago. That had a small filler that needed an adapter fitted in the rear bumper but the previous owner had taken it for a safety check and they had condemned the filler so put a full sized one in the rear wing. Rather than a hole, they just left the original one in place. The only person that ever noticed was a Customs man at Dover who wanted to know if it had twin tanks.

Just had the usual email from the bay of E's telling me that the item I viewed has ended and the link to the one you've bought. Having another look at it one thing I suggest you do is move the LPG filler. The ideal place is free and you can fill up from both sides.

Clive603 wrote:

Be worth a punt if it hadn't been mucked up with coil springs and I could get in my garage.

I considered it but as I have the SE which is the classic, not been looked after and what work has been done has been done on the cheap, cluttering the place up, decided against it. It's pretty (ish)and with a set of air springs, a compressor rebuild kit and a door latch, it could be sorted for under £300. But, it's an early car, it's had the head gaskets done but what caused the overheat that caused them to need doing? There's a whole heap of trouble lurking under the surface.

Clive603 wrote:

but I wanted some idea as to what the second round of aged out / end of life parts was likely to include so I could make sure that things due soon had been changed. Absolutely didn't want to risk catching the "still good looking but we will sell it now before it needs money spent" car.

All of them and everything then. Irrespective of mileage you are looking at a car that is 15+ years old so things will have reached pensionable age and any car is going to start failing because it can. I bought mine at 204,000 miles needing head gaskets and rear air springs but no sooner had I done those and started using it, everything else that fails on a P38 failed. The fact that it had spent the first 8 years of it's life being thrashed mercilessly up and down the M6 when it wasn't being used to drag dead HGVs off the motorway meant it had had a hard life but would have also been maintained well. No amount of maintenance, other than replacing them as a service item, will stop the blend motors dying for instance. Ignore mileage and go on service history. Get one that's had the major work done rather than one that is low mileage and looks pretty but has been neglected.

Here's a classic one to avoid unless you want to spend a lot of time getting it sorted http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-4-6-HSE-V8-P38-Vogue-Alloys-Autobiography-Wood-NO-RESERVE-/122228188219?hash=item1c755e243b:g:0PcAAOSwTA9X4Zd- (although Chris will probably go and buy it.....).

Drive it onto the trailer, strap it down on the wheels (as any professional transporter will anyway), leave it unlocked. No need to do anything else. If it lowers due to a leak it will try to self level but only every 6 hours as Nick says so if it starts off at normal height there's less chance of it hammering the bumpstops before it gets to you.

I did, I admit it. I was trying to install the waffle filter now Simon is on here.....

Actually, I posted the same post twice, noticed what I'd done and deleted the duplicate. Obviously before it had properly saved it.

Nearly as many miles as mine, same scabby rear arches too although mine goes into the paint shop on Monday and they'll be sorted. I thought you'd have gone and collected it? You'd have found out what you need to sort on it by the time you got home (if you got home.....).

With me it's specialist tools that don't get used often. They get put in the safe place but can't be found when next needed so I end up going out and buying another. This explains why I've got 2 piston ring compressors, 2 oil filter strap wrenches, 2 sets of T Star sockets, 2 identical sets of spline bits and 3 ball joint splitters to mention just the ones I've remembered.....

Mmmmmm, moderator status, an edit button...... This is definitely going to be fun.

No doubt sooner or later someone may need your help Simon, quite a few of us on here are running V8's on LPG. However, this is a pub, a virtual pub admittedly, but still a pub. So as the newby, sit down, shut up and it's your round.

This https://rangerovers.pub/topic/189-looks-like-rrtoadhall-doesn-t-like-competition is the story of how I got banned from the other side (permanently, I got a short ban, as did Gordon, for using the phrase that has become the tagline for this forum).

Mine wasn't even going through that much oil when I pulled it out and sent it to V8 Dev to be rebuilt. It had 287,500 miles on it then......

Looks more like shale to me, you sure you can't start up your own small scale fracking plant and run your heating from it?

At least you've got rid of the O2 sensor codes now. The first one is a new one on me and would suggest either a problem with the throttle position sensor and/or MAF sensor. The second one is one I've not seen before either but I suppose it's a fairly easy one to achieve. If the engine takes too long to warm up then the thermostat must be at fault. It wasn't a Britpart stat you fitted by any chance?