It will probably be where the pollen filter housings are attached to the bulkhead or it gets in through the screwholes that hold the plenum cover on. the latter is fairly easy to sort as all you need do it take out the existing (rusty) screws, lift the panel slightly and squirt some silicone gloop under it where the screws go through and refit with new screws.
Marty supplied the original information, I've refined it a bit and written out the way to do it if you want to go with an aftermarket head unit. No need to take the door cards off as all wiring goes via the DSP amp location so it can all be done from there. See this thread here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/8-info-p38-alpine-dsp-amp-connections-and-wiring?page=1#pid30814
One in two. If you wash the windscreen while the lights are switched on, the headlamp wash/wipe operates on every other wash of the windscreen.
She'll have a hissy fit at you now.
I've just spent some time under the bonnet of mine as I'm setting off to drive 1,520 miles first thing in the morning. It isn't due a service yet (but will be by the time I get home) so it was just a check of the levels, a bit ore air in the tyres and a trip to the Romanian car wash in the next village. I always like to at least start the journey with it looking presentable, it rarely does when I get to my destination though.
The secret when wading is the speed you go through at. If you hit it at WRC speed, you will drown it, you drive at the speed where it creates a bow wave in front of you and follow that. Too slow and things start to fill up with water, too fast and it will drown.
Yes they are. With a stored voltage of 0.47 and an actual of 0.69, the ECU thinks you have opened the throttle slightly so will open up the idle air valve to raise the revs. It is supposed to learn the closed throttle voltage but it seems that it will only learn downwards so if the stored is higher than actual, it will change but not the other way round. On the Nano, on the next page (I think), you can actually type in the voltage you want.
If you can work out a way of dissolving the resin, there'll be a lot of people that could benefit. People have tried multiple different solvents, freezer spray, heat and nothing seems to work in getting it off without poking or levering at it which destroys the chip.
I've got one that I intend using the connector and casing and putting a pair of Class D amps and 4 crossovers in it to make a plug and play replacement. I've got all the bits, just never got around to putting it together.
When I did the off road course at Land Rover, they said midway up to the headlights was the limit, as soon as it came over the front of the bonnet, it was too deep. I wouldn't fancy trying it in mine but I did in a Discovery on what they referred to as the Jungle Track.
But a 2001 is a Thor not GEMS. As I mentioned in your other thread, the Thor always seems harder to get all the air out. I can't see it being the stat though as they are the same on Thor and GEMS. I've just had a look at a spare thermostat I have sitting here thinking that maybe an OE one has a hole and modern aftermarket don't, but no hole. In the old days a thermostat always had a hole with a 'jiggle pin' in it to allow air to bleed through and the pin was there to stop is getting clogged.
https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234 or https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/land-rover-range-rover-1994-2001-parts/
I can't find it on either of them though. The only one that looks similar on the pictures is shown as the hose to the rear ducts. I can't see it being dual purpose but who knows?
Very odd. It almost sounds as though someone has been playing with the wiring and linked the two front latches for some reason. Any sign of any spurious wiring around the BeCM?
The problem would appear to be thermal as they will sometimes start to work but then stop again when the temperature changes. Most likely theory is that the processor chip (a surface mount device with tiny pins) is encapsulated in a big blob of resin which has a slightly different coefficient of expansion than the chip itself so they will shear off the PCB. Because of the resin you can't get to the pins to be able to do anything with them. So far, nobody has managed to find a way of getting the resin off without destroying the chip underneath it.
Leo is spot on, it's the contacts in the stalk. One other one that most don't know about is the setting for Intermittent wipers in the BeCM. Default is disabled but if you change it to enabled and you have the wipers on constant, they drop down to intermittent when stationary and start back up again when you reach 2mph.
What voltage have you got showing for closed throttle from the TPS. I suspected an intermittent problem with the TPS at closed throttle on a GEMS recently so I thought that I could enlarge the holes and turn it slightly to move the wiper a bit further up the track. That would increase the voltage but I figured that I could then reset the closed throttle voltage to the higher one and it should be fine. It wasn't, idle was high at around the same as you have. It seems that if the TPS idle voltage is higher than 0.9V, it will give high idle even if that is set as the idle voltage. Normal is between 0.6 and 0.8V
What brand was it so we can avoid them in the future?
The valves are there to stop water coming into the car if you are wading through deep water as they act as a (pretty crude) one way valve. So doing away with them is OK if you never into going through deep water. But the way the weather in different parts of the world is going, you may never know when you will find a flooded road......
Take the side panel off the centre console and you'll be able to see the hose. It may not be connected at one end or the other. Maybe it was disturbed when the dash was taken out by someone (that'll be me then....).
It may just be low on refrigerant, particularly if Kwikfit did it. The P38 takes a lot of R134a, 1250 grams in a GEMS and 1380 grams in a Thor but unless the muppet that did it programmed the machine properly (which most don't as they don't know how), it will have put the default of 800 grams in. When low it will work but not well and the pressure will drop as the ambient temperature gets warmer so it won't work at all when you actually want it to. If it wasn't fully charged in the first place, even the smallest leak will cause the level to drop below that were it will work at all. Simplest check is to very briefly poke one of the Schrader valves and see if there is any pressure there. Admittedly you are committing a criminal offence by intentionally releasing an ozone depleting substance into the atmosphere but if you've got a leak you've been doing that anyway (but not intentionally).....
The signal from the HEVAC goes via the dreaded connector behind the RH kick panel. On a GEMS it drives the compressor clutch directly via the pressure switch so the HEVAC can detect the amount of current being drawn and bring the book on if it doesn't see sufficient draw. On a Thor the HEVAC drives the relay which sends power, again via the pressure switch, to the compressor clutch. In this case a later HEVAC won't bring the book on as it is only supplying a low current to drive a relay and not the clutch directly. So a late HEVAC will work on an early car but not the other way round. If he does have an early HEVAC, then it will have the book showing as it is expecting to see lots of current being drawn but there isn't. As soon as that happens it takes the power off that output and doesn't try to engage it again. If the book is showing, poke the AC OFF button and see if the book is still there on the next restart. An early HEVAC won't detect the problem if it doesn't try to engage the compressor clutch, so won't bring the book on. If Nanocom shows a compressor clutch fault, then it is an early HEVAC.
If you have power to the relay and pressure in the system, put the temperature on Lo on both sides. If the relay doesn't click in, then look at the kickwell connector, if it does, then it might be a bad connection at the pressure switch (mine had one when I first got it and a P38 on a hot day with no AC is not a pleasant place to be). Unplug that and give it a squirt of contact cleaner. If it still doesn't work, put a wire jumper between the Green/White and White/Light Green wires on the pressure switch plug, that will simulate an acceptable working pressure in the system (between 35 and 305 psi). If the clutch kicks in then, either the pressure is below 35 psi or it is low on refrigerant.
One other thing to check is the compressor clutch air gap. It should be between 16 and 30 thou between the clutch plate face and the pulley. A quick check for that is to tap the clutch plate with the handle of a screwdriver while it is trying to operate. If it clicks in then and stays in, the the air gap is likely too large and the system isn't supplying enough current to pull it in but once in, it will stay in. However, my bet would be low or no refrigerant
If he doesn't have heated seats or windscreen, then it has been changed. There are different versions of the HEVAC that either have all the buttons or only the ones a particular car has. The buttons appear to still be there but don't have the markings on them to show what they do and are just blanks that don't do anything. The Bordeaux is a bit of a weird one. People think it is a luxury version but it is actually a near base model with red paintwork, red carpets and red piping on the seats. No heated screen, headlamp wash/wipe, no High Line sterero, no electric seats, etc so your DHSE will be a much higher spec (same as a petrol HSE).
As it only started after you had partially drained the system and refilled it, that would suggest you still have air in there. I think you are being misled by the 100C warning which may be down to the change of sensor. Do you have an infra red thermometer to measure the actual temperature? However, the lower pipe from radiator to thermostat being cold doesn't sound right at all. If the top hose is hot, then it should be at a lower temperature after the coolant has passed through the radiator but not that low. Do you have the old one to put back in and see if anything changes?