I don't think it will make any difference as the SAI system has it's own sensor in the bottom of the radiator (or at least some do I understand). Neither LRCat or JLRs own site list a difference between SAI and non-SAI, they both list the same sensor you have. The sensor you have is actually two sensors in one body, one to feed the engine ECU (which is the one that the Nanocom will be taking the reading from) and one to feed the dashboard gauge.
Yes, they do just lever out but be careful, they may be a bit brittle. You need to make up something that will allow you to lever equally on both sides and not just on one side.
Aftermarket stereos usually have a yellow and red for power, one permanent and one ignition switched. You often find that they often have inline connectors so you can swap them over as some cars have them wired one way and others the other.
I've found that a Thor is more difficult to get all the air out and have put it down to the 'humps' in the hoses to the heater matrix. I found that by pushing them downwards so they are no longer the highest point in the system helps. If you can squeeze the top hose and hear the coolant moving around, there's still air in there.
You should have an air gap between the clutch plate and the compressor pulley of 16 to 30 thou so if it is too small there will be some drag causing the compressor to turn even if it hasn't engaged. If the compressor isn't kicking in, you may be low on refrigerant so the pressure switch is preventing it from engaging, you have a bad connection at the pressure switch or at the multiway connector behind the RH kick panel. As you've got a Thor it will have the additional relay so your HEVAC won't give you the book symbol. Earlier cars didn't have the relay so the HEVAC could detect how much current was being drawn by the clutch and bring on the book. With the relay, it cannot detect if the clutch has engaged or not.
If the drains were dry, it may be that the tubes have become dislodged. If you take the centre console side panels off you will see the convoluted hoses that connect between the underside of the heater box and the top of the drains. It isn't unknown for these to become dislodged so rather than the condensate going out the drains it dribbles inside the car.
When working properly, on a humid day, there is so much water comes out from under the car people will point out you've a water leak. I've had concerned people point out the trickle of water coming out from under the car when I've stopped for fuel!
Clogged drains. Get under the car and look up at the underside of the floor either side of the gearbox directly above the XYZ switch. On each side you'll see a conical bit of rubber, looking a bit like a limpet, give it a squeeze and you will be rewarded with a sleeve full of muddy water.
The software this forum runs is a bit weird. If you want to quote something, it will appear but with > in front of it. Put a Blank line beneath that and then type your reply. That way the quote is in bold with your reply below it in standard size text.
Purple is permanent live, Black is ground, White/Pink is ignition switched live and Red/White is a panel light feed so the backlight comes on when the lights are switched on. The 4 speaker pairs are a colour and a matching colour with a black stripe (which goes to the negative of the speakers), Yellow is left front, Green is left rear, Red is right front and Blue is right rear.
PS, welcome to the forum
Depends what system it had originally and what year. There were 4 different stereo systems fitted over the years. Earlier cars had a Clarion head unit and could have had the Low Line system, with a bass speaker in each door and a tweeter at the top of the front doors, a Mid Line system with bass and midrange speakers in the doors and tweeters at the top of the front doors, or the High Line system with the same speakers as the Mid Line but with amps in each door, a sub in the boot and steering wheel control buttons. Later cars had an Alpine head unit and the premium system had a DSP amp in the boot which is notoriously unreliable, fails regularly and will cost a fortune to replace.
If you have the Low or Mid line system, the connectors at the head unit are standard DIN plugs so any aftermarket head unit should just plug straight in. If you have the High line with door amps you either need to make up some attenuators or bypass the amps and fit crossovers instead.
Keycode Lockout comes up if the alarm has been triggered, the battery disconnected (or gone flat or you got the EKA wrong more than 3 times) and is reconnected. As you have found, you just need to be patient.
The sump isn't the same. Pre-99 GEMS has a pressed steel sump but a later Thor has a cast alloy one (which incorporates the flywheel cover rather than it being separate) which probably explains the difference. I've never seen anyone use a torque wrench on a sump plug, most people just do it up tight......
It's touch up paint for the car but slobbered on good and thick so it is opaque. I used it because I figured it wouldn't look so obvious and it happened to be sitting on the shelf in the garage. If it can be put on thick enough to stock the light coming through, silver paint would probably be the least noticeable. If you follow the mouldings on the light units and shine the headlights on a wall, you'll see the dip pattern is flat if you got it right.
As I do more long distance driving on the wrong side of the road than over here, I've masked my lights to give a flat cut off on dip. I've painted mine as tape gets pulled off by the headlamp wipers but tape will work just as well if you put it in the correct place.
RH lamp
LH lamp
If you look, you'll see the lens has the sections marked that need to be masked.
On a P38 you can take the rear door off for access and cut through the loop the door latch catches on. That at least allows you to open the door and get the door card off to get at it. No idea if you can do the same on an L322 though.
No problem with using a dead fob as a manual key, not until you wear out the keyswitch in the latch anyway. That is the problem with the cheap fob cases, they don't hold the pcb securely so it can move inside the case.
Usually one door not locking means the CDL switch has failed so it doesn't try to lock it as it thinks it is already locked. However, if pushing the sill locking button down locks the other doors, that would suggest it is working. I suppose the only possibility is that it is failing so manually pushing the sill button down moves it further, just enough for it to operate?
As Rob assumes I know every little item on the P38 I thought I should check and confirm. I had a feeling the buttons weren't the same as the ones in the window switchpack so had a look at the HEVAC ribbon strip repair document on Marty's website (http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=71). I had a feeling the switches behind the buttons were the same as on a TV remote and the picture on page 5 confirms this. Take it apart as for as that picture, then lift up the membrane, clean the pads on the bottom of the membrane and the tracks on the circuit board that the pads bear against with alcohol and put it back together.
mad-as wrote:
Hi Chasman, just for interest i have heard off this RF interference issues being caused by other electronic gadgets , eg weather stations and wireless security window locks etc. the problem seems to be when the battery's go flat and the units send out a low battery signal , it's these signals that interfere with cars
From many years of experience of tracing these sources, you are absolutely correct. Most things just stop working when a battery goes flat but Murphy's Law says that a device that has been designed to operate every 15 or 30 minutes, or only on a change of state, operate all the time. Ones that I found over the years were window sensors on burglar alarms (which also get offended when a spider takes up residence inside), oil tank level gauges and weather stations. Then there are inadvertent sources, remote controls jammed down the side of a sofa with a button pressed in, kids toys left switched on, wireless doorbells with the button stuck in and so on.
Wi-Fi and radio transmitter sites can cause a problem but not a battery drain, just a fob that won't work. When a radio receiver, no matter what type, is near to a high powered RF source, it suffers desensitisation so can no longer detect the wanted signal. Think of it like trying to listen to someone talking to you when you've got a lot of loud noise around you. This is when you get the situation where you park somewhere and can't lock or unlock the car with the remote. Putting the remote next to the receive aerial on the window will usually work as it is the R|F equivalent to shouting in someone's ear.
If it was unlocked it should have started unless passive immobilisation is still enabled as it needs to receive an unlock code to reset the immobiliser. That will kick in if the car is unlocked but not started within 30 seconds. Ordinarily it will receive an unlock code when the key is put in the ignition, the coil around the lock causes the fob to transmit without you noticing (unless you happen to look at the LED on the fob as you put the key in, you'll see it flash).
No need to match anything, a receiver is a receiver and you can swap them at will. They all do the same job, just some versions better than others.