The Classic didn't have a suitable spare wheel well but plenty of space underneath although it wasn't particularly usable. Most ended up with a pair of 'torpedo' tanks between the sills and chassis rail or a vertical toroidal on one side of the boot (my 93 Classic LSE had that on the LH side and with the spare wheel on the RH side. With a carpet spare wheel cover over both it looked like I had 2 spare wheels). A number of companies made small petrol tanks, such as this one for the Discovery https://lpgautosupplies.co.uk/shop/lpg-kits/land-rover/36-ltr-pet-tank-drawing-disco-2-3459/ so an LPG tank can be fitted into the space freed up by that. The other alternative with a P38, is a cylinder tank in the boot behind the rear seats but you do lose boot space then. You can always make it removable so is only there when you need it.

I've wondered about putting a tank, with quick connect pipe connections, in a small trailer and towing that behind me when doing really long journeys. A range of over 1,000 miles should be sufficient at avoiding the countries where LPG is expensive so I only fill up in the cheaper places.

Put an old brake disc on back to front and hit it with a sledgehammer.

Sounds that way although I can't see why it would get worse after a gasket change (unless you've put another leak in). Bit of a bugger about filling it with long life OAT though but I'd be inclined to drain it out, flush it through with a hosepipe and then fill it with plain water and water glass, run it for a while then, once you know it has done the job, drain 5 litres out and chuck in 5 litres of concentrate Ethylene Glycol (£20 from Euro Car Parts).

Rather than spend £30 a on 450ml bottle of Steel Seal, spend £16 on a litre of Steel Seal without the dye in it from https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224517468608.

The most likely problem if there is a leak will be around the outside of the liner, the block to liner joint which is within the fire ring of the gasket. That is a prime candidate for waterglass which will stop it for many years. You can either buy waterglass with a dye in it called Steel Seal, or for about a fifth of the price, plain waterglass without the dye https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224517468608. You'd want to put about a litre in, and follow the instructions for Steel Seal https://steelseal.co.uk/how-to-use/

It'll pressurise when hot but the pressure should disappear once it has cooled right down. Unless you have an air lock in there when it won't. If, when cold and with the cap off, you can squeeze the top hose and hear gurgling, there is still air in there.

Looking good but I do have one question. Did your AC work? Although the fatter hose is the low pressure side, so when the AC is on it will be down to around 2.6 bar (38psi), when not running it will be at a static pressure of around 6 bar (90psi) and I wouldn't expect a Jubilee clip to be able to hold that.

A couple of years ago I tried to replace the original Boge shocks on my car only to find that fronts were unavailable. I bought a pair of Boge for the rear but, working on the principle they were cheap and not difficult to change, took a gamble on a pair of Britpart on the front. Up until recently they have been OK but must have done around 60k miles (if not more) by now and I noticed a slight 'shimmy' through the steering when crossing joins in the tarmac. Initially thought it was the lower rubbers which looked pretty soggy so replaced those. That improved things but it still wasn't right. Checked the LH front shock and found no damping at all for the first half millimetre or so of movement. New front shocks required. Googled the part number (STC3672) and found Rimmers could supply genuine (which I'm assuming would be Boge) at over £200 each, Island 4x4 and LRDirect could supply multiple different makes but not Boge but a company I had never used before called British Parts UK in Stevenage (www.britishparts.co.uk) showed Boge OE as being in stock. Not only did they claim to have them but they were listed at £28 each, so I ordered a pair.

That was Wednesday evening and DPD delivered a parcel on Friday afternoon. However, when I opened it, I found it contained a pair of Chinese made, Pro branded, front shocks. So I emailed them saying I ordered Boge OE but had been sent the Pro units. Timed at 07.11 on Saturday I received an email apologising, saying that it must have been a mistake in the warehouse and it would be dealt with on Monday. Around 10am on Monday I get a phone call saying they would arrange for DPD to collect the Pro units later that day and they would send me what I had ordered. DPD man duly turns up and collects the pro units on Monday afternoon and today (Tuesday) DPD delivered a box containing a pair of genuine Boge front shocks.

With service like that I have a feeling I may be using British Parts UK again (and it would take me about the same time to drive to them as it does to Rimmers so may well go there if I need something in a hurry too).

Edited to add that their website no longer lists the Boge units, just 'quality aftermarket' which I suspect will be the Pro units......

It will only kick in if the engine is running so connecting an ammeter isn't a good idea as it would need to be able to handle the current for the starter.

That would do it, or just put the clamp around the battery cable and look at what the car is drawing then. With bonnet and a door open, it should be just over 1 Amp. Close the door and wait 2 minutes for the BeCM to sleep and you'll see it drop down to around 0.25-0.4 Amps. With a clamp meter you have to connect it around just one cable, either the positive or negative. If around both it will see current flowing one way and the same amount flowing the other way so they will cancel out. Also bear in mind that the meter will always default to AC if you change range.

The 16" do ride a bit softer due to the higher profile tyres. As the Futuras were only fitted to base model cars (and ones that were ordered to a weird spec by a police force), they are only 7" wide rather than 8" on all the others and take 235/70x16 tyres so the 70 profile may make a difference too. Having got used to them, I bought another spares or repairs project car on 18" wheels and commented in my local indy that the ride felt harder. The reply was you want 18" for looks and 16" for comfort. I've also had light vibrations through the front, particularly after crossing a tarmac join in the road surface. That was down to the rubbers on the bottom of the front shocks having perished so weren't holding the shock securely.

My Ascot is on Triple Spokes.....

The everyday is on 16" Futura.....

As I never did get the Ascot to you for the front ball joint change, Can I have first dibs on the tool for changing them?

Will this do you?

If you've got the full version of RAVE, it's included in that under the heading New Range Rover. That covers the L322 up to 2005. Laid out a bit differently but the wiring diagrams are in colour.

65 ft/lb or 85 Nm, roughly the same torque. I do them in 3 stages, 40, 55, 65 ft/lb.

There's this one that looks decent (no rust on the rear wheelarches) but is an HSE so almost certainly will have a sunroof. It's in North Bristol and I've got the contact details for the owner if interested. https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/old-girl-needs-a-new-home.360088/#post-2423889

There's this one that looks decent (no rust on the rear wheelarches) but is an HSE so almost certainly will have a sunroof. It's in North Bristol and I've got the contact details for the owner if interested. https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/old-girl-needs-a-new-home.360088/#post-2423889

I had a 97 4.0 SE I bought as a project and sold on when it was all sorted. That had a sunroof so it seems the SE came with one too. To swap bits over and keep things compatible, you'd need to look for a 97 or earlier. Lots of minor changes for the 98MY so you could run into problems with bits that aren't interchangeable.

I don't have a sunroof in mine but it was a special order for the police with only the options they requested but my '96 HSE Ascot does. I suspect it was only the lower spec ones that didn't have one but you never know. Some of the limited editions such as the Bordeaux were actually a low spec, not much above base, but from what I can find, they had a sunroof. Personally I can't see one being necessary with AC, all it does is encourage water leaks and increase wind noise.

To get under it initially, Nigel had his Nanocom in the car so I told him to go into the EAS menu, outputs and open the front two valves and the inlet valve so it lifted the front. When I got there 2 days later it was still sitting with the front up in the air but I put my trolley jack under front axle to lift it up a bit more. Only really needed as he has the side steps, without there would have been plenty of room to slide under it without using the jack.