That is what I normally do. the only time those hoses need to come off is when you intend replacing them, so I just slit them lengthwise with a Stanley knife and peel them off. To fit the new ones, a smear of silicone grease makes them slide on easily.
Yes, he's a full time LPG installer (although does spend a lot of his time putting right other people's installs).
Simon, LPGC on here (and on www.lpgforum.co.uk) is just off the A1 near Doncaster. He will no doubt see this and reply shortly. Sounds as if you have correctly identified the problem and it may be due to a bodged attempt at rebuilding the reducers (or they are simply knackered). There will no doubt be a single reducer that Simon will recommend. Are we talking GEMS (pre-99) or Thor (99 onwards) motor?
If you actually look how it seals, the clamp doesn't clamp the pipes to the heater core, it allows movement that is taken up by the flexibility of the O rings. It's a flexible joint of sorts, admittedly one without much movement, but it can flex a little. The screw only needs to be done up tight enough to hold it in place, doing it up too tight is likely to crack the matrix and then it never will seal. The flexibility is why I always use genuine O rings too, you've no clue how long generic O rings will last before going hard.
I replaced the O rings when I first got my car nearly 13 years ago and they are still fine. I will only ever use genuine LR O rings, at £3 each it isn't worth saving a few pence on aftermarket, but getting them seated properly is the most important part of the job. Getting them in place and then giving the pipes a wiggle to make sure they have seated fully before doing the screw up fully. What causes them to leak, other than old age, is heaving on the pipes where they go through the bulkhead if you are trying to get the underbonnet hoses off.
Easier said than done. To get the cats and downpipes out, you need to take the gearbox crossmember off.....
Wait until you have the new exhaust fitted and you will be able to look at the lambda on the Nanocom. If you check it now and make a note of the readings, then check again after the exhaust leaks are no longer there.
Stilsons.....
p73990 wrote:
Has my exhaust been changed to the 5.0L? On the JLR site it does not show that for the 4.2L exhaust
Looks like it might have been. The 4.2 SC L322 appears to be the same as that on the Sport. https://new.lrcat.com/#!/12119/94841/99132/7893
Sorry, that is for the SC Sport, it is a short stub pipe on the FFRR. See https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/lr011092-pipe-exhaust.html
Ridiculous price but can be got cheaper https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/lr011092-exhaust-stub-pipe-turbos-to-downpipes-5-0l-v8-petrol.html. Still bloody expensive for a bit of tube with a flange on each end and a boss in the middle.....
Ally = Aluminium, Jubilee Clip = screw clamp.
It looks like yours have already been modified, hence the need to weld the O2 sensor bosses in. Parts list shows the sensor bosses in the inlet pipe to the cats not as a separate part.
Do you have anything like Gun Gum (https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/gun-gum-paste/) available in Canada? Grind or wire brush the loose stuff off the dodgy welds, then a dollop of paste would seal the holes. As long as you don't expect it to give any mechanical strength (as some do), it works really well.
You've only got upstream sensors anyway, only US spec cars have downstream as well. I would suspect that once the holes in the exhaust are fixed, the emissions will come down too. My daughter's Toyota failed on emissions and blowing exhaust, once the exhaust was fixed the emissions also came down.
I fitted the Allmakes one (https://www.lrdirect.com/stc3261-heater-matrix-new-rr) to a clients car and it appeared to be OEM from the markings moulded into it. But it isn't something that Britpart will have had made for them so I suspect it comes from the same factory just via Britpart and it does have a 2 year warranty. Not so good on a RHD car where the dash or steering column has to come out to change it but a fairly simple swap for you if it does fail.
Yes, there's a seat outstation under there. Same left and right if you want to try swapping them over to see if the fault moves. Part number is AMR3359, plenty on eBay.
Yes, there are two power relays under each seat for non-memory seats. Not had a lot to do with electric seats but I do recall one that would blow the fuse if the backrest button was pressed.....
If going aftermarket you can use the original wiring from the head unit to where the DSP amp lived and link the wiring from the head unit to the wiring that goes to the speakers. See the latter part of this here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/8-info-p38-alpine-dsp-amp-connections-and-wiring?page=1#pid30814
Marty did a kit of parts that allowed 4 door amps from an earlier P38 to be bolted to an alloy plate and wired in place of the DSP amp. However I fitted one and sitting in the boot for hours soldering the 40 odd wires isn't a particularly fun way of spending an afternoon. It did set me thinking though and figured I could use standard Class D amps and crossovers but fitting them inside the original DSP amp case and wiring them to the original socket I should be able to put together a plug and play DSP amp alternative. I've got a dead DSP amp, the class D amps and crossovers, I just need to put it all together (just....). It would probably need the input levels adjusting to match that coming out of the head unit and would need an extra pair of outputs from the rear speaker feeds from the head unit to the amp, but should work. Just need a suitable DSP amp equipped car to plug it in and try it, sounds like I might have just found one......
I think he means the L320 Sport roof spoiler with the built in high level brake light. I've seen a few with that fitted and it doesn't actually look out of place (except it means you've got two high level brake lights).
I put one of these https://www.gravityperformance.co.uk/product/exhaust/cat-back-exhaust-system-range-rover-p38-mk2-v8-td-94-02/ on mine but with a standard mild steel centre box. Not that much more expensive than a mild steel aftermarket and after going through one every couple of years, figured it should be fit and forget. They also do at mid box delete pipe https://www.gravityperformance.co.uk/product/exhaust/centre-sections-resonator-deletes/exhaust-centre-section-range-rover-mk2-p38-4-0-4-6-v8-94-02/ but not sure if that would make it too noisy and drone on a long run like you do. I know it would drive me bonkers.....
I think they are rated at about 50W. All you really need are some that will fit the hole.