Ahh, you have to ask and only then by PM when you will be told but sworn to secrecy. Even if you Google it you won't find the answer anywhere, just lots of other people with the same message in their signature.
I have an eBay unbranded one and the Nanocom says that the readings from it are something like what they should be. Put it this way, it shows airflow at idle which increases as the revs go up, whether by the correct amount is anyone's guess. But, as I have a single point LPG system that is set to changeover to LPG when the revs drop below 1,200 rpm, all I do is start it, blip the throttle and it isn't using the MAF any more. I only replaced it because the old one had died completely and it didn't like starting. Live with it until we can sort your LPG system out at the Summer Camp......
As for the ABS sensor, it might just be that it isn't pushed home fully. Get a block of wood and a hammer, sit the block of wood on the sensor and hit it with the hammer to push the sensor further into the hub. That may well be all it needs as it's recently been apart.
See, that's what happens when you play with things you don't understand. For that reason I've restricted my use of my Nanocom to looking at things and clearing faults, I don't dare change anything in case I bugger something else up. It ain't broke so I'm not going to try to fix it......
Blend motors are the same as Peugeot 406 but I suspect most 406's of a similar age to our P38's were scrapped years ago so nobody would notice if the flaps were sticking.
I know my O rings are fine but I suspect that my heater core is starting to show signs of age. The coolant loss is minimal but if parked when it's cold the windscreen is steamed up from the bottom when I go back to the car. Now it might just be rain getting in and dribbling down onto the matrix and it isn't leaking at all, but I'll only find out when the time comes. Noticing this thread http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/231346-heater-matrix-fyi-cheap-source.html on the other forum (yes, I know, but I still go on there just to see what stupid tricks the Yanks are doing this time, honest) and checked the link. Now it's showing £30, but a couple of days ago it said there was only one left, at £7.50..... So, if you saw it and thought, "that's cheap" and have now found the price has gone up, blame me, because I bought it. Before pulling things apart to fit it, I need to get an original one to confirm that it really is identical (from pictures I can find online, it does look like it is). I'll be doing it by slackening the steering column. Marty tells me it's a pain and he normally takes the whole dash out but as dash removal is 3 pages in RAVE and dropping the steering column is half a page, I'm doing it that way.
Gordon has been getting to grips with the forum software so he can give admin rights to most of the early members but I believe there was a problem. Something to do with making someone an admin deleted their original profile.
Don't want any moderators though, they just get power crazy.......
if you have no hot air you have a huge airlock. Air expands far more than coolant (or even water) so the air expands and pushes the water out of the expansion tank.
Don't see why it won't last. Now the leaks have been sorted it won't have to work overly hard and as it isn't working overly hard then it should never get hot enough to have caused the thermal switch to trip. It wasn't that hot even after filling the reservoir from scratch..
Austin has just left after another session and I think we found the problem. Pulled the kick panel off and the connector was slightly green but not as bad as I expected. Cut the plug off, soldered and heat shrinked the wires. Tried my EASUnlock and got some very odd goings on. Rear came up but front didn't, sat there with the light showing access height with standard flashing but it didn't do anything. Then realised that the pump wasn't running. Told it to run from the software and it did but still doing odd things. After the pump had been running for a while, now I could raise the car from the software but it still wouldn't behave itself when told to with the software disconnected. Pump still not choosing to run. Decided to see what the Nanocom made of it all. Everything looked fine except for one thing, Thermal switch state reported as Hot even though I could put my hand on the pump without removing my fingerprints. Warm but definitely not what you would call hot. Put a wire jumper on the back of the socket to short out the thermal switch and everything works as it should. Pump cuts in and out when you expect it to, goes to whatever height you tell it to either from the Nanocom or from the switch on the dash. Seems that he's got an intermittent thermal switch that is going open circuit as and when it feels like it.
No leaks were found but thinking about it, there can't be any. It was sitting at somewhere between motorway and access height a couple of days ago when he took the timer relay out and it still was when it got to me, with the timer relay still out! So the EAS hasn't been doing anything for a couple of days and it hadn't sunk to it's knees. As the pump seemed a bit down on output and now has an iffy thermal switch, he'll be getting a new one and swapping it over the weekend. Hopefully now all sorted, hopefully......
I thought it was just me, I've managed to get myself suspended from the other forum a couple of times so assumed I'd upset Gordon. I posted the first reply but can't see that. The odd thing is that there's no reply box shown beneath the first post, only a reply button above it.
I've had a replacement foam thing to go in there for months (added it to an order from Island because I could) and haven't got round to fitting it so I'll be getting in there sooner or later anyway. I'll see if I can see how the element wires are commoned together and if there is an obvious way of remaking the connections. Maybe slobbering a load of the conductive silver paint sold for repairing PCB tracks and heated rear screen elements will do it?
My cats are still there but with nothing inside them, I bashed the guts out with a hammer and big chisel. Still got the tailpipe silencers and centre box though and I must admit I was a little disappointed with the lack of extra noise but you can hear it when the throttle is floored.
The first relay deals with the passenger side and also switches the second relay which is for the drivers side. So if the passenger side was working but not the drivers side, it could be the second relay. Mine used to work on the passenger side but only a few strips on the drivers side
Last time I tried it, I'd got a few strips on the passenger side and one thin strip down the middle of the drivers side. I think the problem is more likely to be at the top or bottom of the screen itself where the connections are no longer making.
It should stay up overnight now we've sorted the leak. You saw my SE that hasn't been started in 9 days and it may not be at full height but it's still not on the bumpstops. I did suggest that it could be an iffy height sensor but I wouldn't have expected it to give an out of range signal for long enough on the roads you were driving on. Unless it got drowned in the storm.......
If you are going to swap the fusebox, check the VIN on the two cars as there are a number of different ones. My SE has a brand new fusebox and I was going to swap it into the ex-plod until I checked. Although they are only a few months apart (SE is a late '97 model and the ex-plod is a '98 model but built Nov '97), the fuseboxes are different part numbers.
Spoke too soon. Just had a phone call from him. Halfway home he got the beep, beep, beep, EAS Fault 35MPH Max, but it has stayed at normal height which seems odd. He's got Marty's EAS Kicker with him so I suggested he tried plugging that in and seeing what it did, nothing is the answer although now he has a car at normal height but only the top LED lit on the display. We're now suspecting a problem in the connector behind the kick panel as he'd just driven through a rainstorm so if water is getting onto that from somewhere, that might explain it. But at least he's not on the bumpstops again.
Austin has just left, a very happy man. After a 2 hour journey on the bumpstops, I plugged the EASUnlock cable in, gave it a wiggle to clean the contacts, connected immediately, read the faults, unlocked the ECU, cleared the faults and up she came. A bit sluggish as the pump isn't in the prime of life so we went inside for a coffee. 20 minutes later, the right rear was on the bumpstops and you could hear the air escaping. The guy that fitted the new Dunlop rear air springs hadn't pushed the pipe in fully so pushed it all the way in and the hissing noise stopped. The squirty bottle of fairy liquid and water showed no more leaks so he's set off for the hour and a half drive back as he can travel at a sensible speed now.
Even changed the rubber on his rear wiper while he was here as he hadn't worked out that you can stop it by opening the tailgate while it's in mid sweep......
Marty, he's bringing the car over to me tomorrow. First thing will be to see if my EASUnlock or Nanocom will connect, if not, it'll be drop the panel and check the back of the socket for corrosion. If that looks OK then I'll have the kick panel off and check in there. If I don't find anything and still can't connect, I'll try nicking the delay relay off the SE (and see if it has one or the PO has swapped it for a standard one).
Martyuk wrote:
It's definitely not pleasurable! well, not for me anyway!!
But haven't you noticed the smile on your missus's face?