The dreaded triple beeps followed by all 3 ABS traction control lights and alternating ABS Fault and TC Fault is definitely not welcome approaching Lyon on the way to Nice with a fully restored Series 1 E type on a trailer behind me. Despite the warnings, everything seemed normal as I rolled into the services but after applying the brakes a couple of times, they most definitely weren't. ABS pump Maxi fuse blown, pump tested short circuit so nothing that could be done in the service area. No choice but to carry on and just hope that the fact that the only time I should need the brakes is at the toll booths and I'd get at least 1km notice of those. Failing dismally to find a pump in France (other than one for a Classic for 500 Euros), I had to do the return journey using both feet on the brake pedal every time I wanted to stop. Not saying the retardation was minimal but it wasn't even enough to pull on the over-run brakes on the trailer!

Looks like you are doing a very neat job of it Tony but that hoses looks to be very thick? Much thicker than the hose from the injectors on most systems. I'll measure the outside diameter of the hoses on my SE and see what they are.

Yes, GEMS is wasted spark too. The only difference is that the GEMS has 4 double ended ignition coils whereas the Thor has two 4 output ones but if you check each is actually 2 double ended coils in one block.

The system will need a permanent 12V supply and an ignition switched supply but it picks up the ignition switched supply on the Red/White wire that connects to the common switched power on one of the petrol injectors.

It's not white/purple, it's white/pink and it's the coil driver signal to one of the ignition coils (cylinders 5 and 8 but you could use any), so the equivalent on the Thor would be pins 2, 6, 7 or 8 on C0638 at the engine ECU. Because you have a wasted spark ignition system, there will be two pulses for every one that is needed but there is a setting for number of coils in the LPG software. You'll need to set that correctly (dual-coil I think) so the software reads the same rpm as your engine is doing.

Ah, it's using that instead of the more normal temperature sensor on the reducer.

Once the sensors tell the ECU that conditions are right to change over (reducer temperature and gas pressure), it doesn't just change but it looks for a change in revs. It is usual on a multipoint to set it to change on acceleration as the revs pass a certain point. You want it to switch over at fairly low revs, my SE was set to change over at 2,000 rpm so, in theory, it should have changed over as you accelerated past 2,000 rpm. But if you were driving normally in traffic, it would never reach 2,000 rpm as the gearbox would change up before the revs got that high. I could drive for miles with the ready to change light on the switch flashing and it would only change if I dropped it into neutral and gave it some revs. So, you want it to change over at an rpm setting that you will achieve normally, 1,300 rpm would probably be a good one to try.

Ferryman wrote:

I need the inline cooling temp sensor anyway so after the weekend I will pay them a visit.

??? You have a temp sensor on the reducer and one on the fuel rail to detect fuel temperature but not one on the cooling system. If you decided to connect the lambda sensors, don't use the grey wires, just Tee the Purple onto the lambda sensor signal wire.

Not seen aluminium nozzles, usually they are brass. Although still not that strong. Use a non-setting Loctite so they don't vibrate loose but can still be removed if you need to.

Drilled and tapped, M6 thread, with a blob of loctite or similar to make sure they seal and don't vibrate loose.

Clips are available in various sizes so that won't be a problem.

Injector cuts go between the ECU and injectors.

You've got two banks on the engine and two sets of injector cut wires, one for each bank, so you connect one set of cut wires to the odd cylinders and the other set to the even cylinders.

Be very careful with a Thor as the end cylinders cross over so the 4 inlet tracts on the left side don't go to cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7, as you would expect, they go 2, 3, 5, 8. So you will need to cross the LPG injector connections over too so the correct injector fires.

O2 sensors can be connected. They don't affect the running of the LPG system, they simply allow you to see what they are doing from the screen on the laptop when connected rather than having to use an OBD reader as well to make sure they are switching.

But, with the nearest user being over 35km away, it would need to be sending the same colour code to cause the repeater to wake up in the first place. It's always possible that the other user has a mobile in use in the area I suppose. It's a very old licence so they may well have recently changed to a digital system and their supplier has just picked a colour code at random. But if that was the case, then I would expect the audio to be heard as well. Suppose we'll have to wait and see what Zycomm have to say.

Problem with fitting the nozzles in the upper manifold is that they are too far away from the petrol injectors and inlet valves. It's an easy install but far from ideal. They want to be as close to the inlet valves as possible and next to the petrol injectors is usually the best place. You are looking for no more than 300mm from the LPG injector and the inlet valve, ideally no more than 200mm, or throttle response will suffer.

I agree that you'll need to disconnect the injector pipes if you want to take the upper manifold off, but if you use something like these http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/clips-x10-for-lpg-injector-hose-5mm-int-diameter-omvl/ on the connection to the injectors, then all it needs is a pair of pliers.

Tony, not my picture so not my shoes, they belong to the scruffy bugger that converted Morat's car.

It's a shared channel but the nearest user on it is just outside Hunmanby, near Filey, so not exactly on your doorstep. But, as Gordon says, it's transmitting and what you are hearing is the data it is sending rather than what it is receiving off air. It will use both channels as there aren't really two channels, just two virtual channels within the one radio channel.

Get Zycomm over to have a look first as it is starting to look like what we'd call an own goal.

Another method that keeps the pipes short is to open out the gaps between the bananas and drop the pipes straight down. Like this This is actually the same as Morat's install and it allows the pipe length to be kept well under the 300mm maximum length. The injectors can sit on top so are accessible and don't get cooked either.

I've got one of these http://hamradiostore.co.uk/aor-ar-dv1-digital-voice-receiver.html out in the van. Works really well on off air Mototrbo signals and has a built in SD card slot to record received signals to. Not sure if I could copy the audio to an SD card and play it back though as I've never tried it (or read that far into the manual).

I wondered if you'd pop up. It sounds like it's just idling with no traffic on it. You can usually hear when a Mototrbo is carrying traffic. Probably set up with a ridiculously long hang time if it does drop occasionally. I monitored one recently that was being used by the parking wardens in one of the London Boroughs. 80 handportables on it, each with GPS location turned on. In two hours the carrier dropped twice for less than a second each time. The co-channel user 4kms away wasn't best impressed.

Blue light? Maybe they are doing something different your side of the border but down here they are dropping the Airwave Tetra system very shortly and going over to using 4G instead.

Yes, it will be Technically Assigned. Data can be used by taxis for handing out jobs but that tends to be in short bursts as it needs a handshake back from the other end. There's also digital business radio which digitises the speech and sends that as data. Advantage is that you get two voice channels for one radio channel as it either uses time division multiplex or frequency division multiplex depending on who made it. If you drop me a PM with the postcode (or better still, the NGR) of your base station, I'll run a check and see if there's been anything recently licensed in your area. It may be a new system where whoever programmed the system suffered a dyslexic keyboard and got it wrong. Shame it's not in my area, it'd make a change from pirates causing interference to aircraft and interference to the mobile networks.

When we had Discovery's at work someone tipped one over and the H&S manager wanted to know what special training we'd had for driving off road. When told we'd had none whatsoever, those of us that got to drive them got sent to Land Rover to do an off road course. After a week of solid rain their 'Jungle Track' was up to the middle of the headlights which they said was about the maximum you should attempt. Keeping the speed right so you followed your own bow wave and just a tiny dribble came in at the bottom of the doors. The dash was entertaining though as first of all the alternator warning light came on, then the ABS light, then the power steering went and finally a light came on telling you that all of the doors were open. Once out of the water all the lights went out one at a time, the power steering started to work again and you just carried on as normal.

I must admit though, I'd have paid to do that course and it made me realise that in most cases the driver will bottle out long before you reach the limit of what the car can do. All these Yanks fitting huge tyres and putting their cars on stilts are wasting their money, a bog standard one will do most of what they are trying to do.

That's a data transmitter, very strong and on the same frequency by the sound of it. Is this a licensed system? If it is, I suggest you contact Ofcom (0207 981 3131) and get someone out to see where it's coming from (although you'd best check that your licence is current and you haven't let it lapse so the frequency has been re-allocated....).

If it can get out, it can get in again. Suggest you don't take it wading........

Only problem is that the little rear spoiler only pops up when you are already at illegal speeds (in the UK anyway), so it could be used against you. There is a button on the dash to make it pop up whenever you want though. It's one hell of a high speed cruiser though, 100 mph feels like 60 in anything else.